How do you think the IQ on the 500PF and 200-500 compare?
Honestly, IQ wise there's very little between them (to the point where you can't really tell in most situations). The 500pf is useful to me for its other benefits (weight, faster AF,...).
If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).
How do you think the IQ on the 500PF and 200-500 compare?
Not sure if I've posted this before but here's an image shot at 10mm on a crop body camera (D200). You never know when you'll want a wider lens even for wildlife subjects
Nikon D200, 10-20mm f/4 lens @ 10mm, f/10, 1/100", ISO 200
View attachment 20965
The shot was handheld and probably about ten inches from the nearest bird. This was up in Homer Alaska when Jean the Eagle Lady used to feed the Bald Eagles from her place right on the Homer spit. She's passed now and it's no longer legal to feed the Eagles in Homer city limits but for years she'd feed the Eagles every morning with fish donated by a local cannery.That's impressive! This is one close shot of a bird that can easily rip you and your gear open if they get mad at you! Did you have the camera on a monopod or are you just inches away from the bird?
I think Steve just said "you can never have too much lens"The thing is, you can't or won't always have the perfect lens on the camera for a given scenario. Just no way around it. You have to pick the lens that will work best most of the time for the subject you shoot.
However, there are a few tricks if a subject is too close. Most of these wouldn't have worked in your particular example, but for those other times they may prove handy.
1. Forget trying to get the entire animal and concentrate on head shots. Not sure that would have been a good way to go in your particular case, but I find on my workshops people are sometimes obsessed with getting the entire animal. Head shots and close up are also fun though - as I like to remind them - we're not shooting field guides, so feel free to get artistic!
2. Keep an extra camera and a shorter lens handy (I try to do this whenever it's practical). If something happens where I need a shorter lens, this is my best chance.
3. Take multiple shots and merge the images together. Sort of like a wildlife pano. I do this with monkeys in Costa Rica frequently - I get their little faces and bodies but sometimes the tails are getting cut off at the bottom of the frame. So, after I get my shot of the face and body, I move the lens down and, without refocusing, grab the tail. Take the two images and stick them together in Photoshop. (I should do a video on this).
And of course, length mattersI think Steve just said "you can never have too much lens"
I'm an old guy now with a bum back and leg so weight and size are really important. Take a good look at the Olympus E-M1 and Lumix G9 bodies. Their 100-400mm lenses are the FF equivalent of 200-800mm lenses and the Olympus 150-400mm (300-800 equivalent) is apparently a superb lens, with a built-in TC -- as good as any other lens out there. Those cameras and lenses are a fraction of the weight (and price) of the big three's comparable equipment. If you doubt their ability take a look at these posts -- http://smallsensorphotography.com/As I get older I do not know how much I will really want to lug the big lens around. For now I wouldn't want to give it up!
Since buying the 500mm PF lens I find myself using the 600mm much less as I am more mobile without the need for a tripod. The D850 with its 45MP sensor is also a factor as I have a larger image file with the D850 and the 500mm than the D5 and the 600mm f/4. The 600mm lens provides an image area that is 44% larger than the 500mm lens with the same camera being used and that is significant.
As for transport when traveling by plane I put the 600mm, 500mm PF, and 80-400mm lenses and two bodies in a 32L Bataflae backpack. On the other hand the 500mm and 80-400mm and two cameras fit nicely in my 26L Bataflae backpack.
Photographing the grizzlies in the Yellowstone area a 600mm and teleconverters are much needed. Photographing bison or elk and the 80-400mm is my lens of choice. Shooting from a boat anywhere and the 500mm PF and 80-400mm are the lenses I use.
Nice equipment list! If that 600E ever gets too heavy for you, please be sure to let me know!I will be 73 in August. I workout 3 times a week and am blessed to still be able to enjoy my "gorilla" birding outings. I travel through a variety of terrain from flat and brushy to steep open and rocky here in Idaho. I primarily am a birder who also photographs the birds first for ID, then for the art side of it. I still print for myself, accidental sales, exhibits and a few contests and to use at auctions etc. to raise money for non profits, and for publication in Newspapers and various print and on line conservation magazines. I do most of my birding on foot or from my SUV blind. I have had a lot of lenses in the 10 years I have been shooting. I have good tripods, gimbal heads and a monopod and they have only been used to test a lens from my patio in the last 2 or 3 years. I hand hold when birding on foot and the SUV window sill provides support when using it as a rolling blind I have also shot Coyotes, deer, pronghorn, wolves, bears, elk during the pandemic. Also all manner of African critters, my favorite were leopards, several years agon on my only photo safari to Africa. I do shoot the occasional landscape, street scene, events for church etc. but that makes up less than 10% of my photography.
I have had quite a few bodies and lenses over the years. I recently got a Nikon D6 and a refurbished 600 f/4 E from Nikon. I find that it has become my primary birding set up because of the low light capabilities and focus speed and speed of acquisition on birds from warblers to eagles sitting in brush, trees or flying. I still use my 500pf either as a back up or when the smaller size is critical it is a great lens but to light for my shooting style and is harder for me to hand hold. If I am just driving to my intended birding location I have either a D500 with a Tamron 18-400 or a D850 with a Tamron 100-400 or the 500pf sitting next to me in the SUV (wedged in on a folded fleece between me and the center console). I still have my Tamron 150-600 G2 and have won contests, been published in magazines and sold images taken with that lens I almost always used it at 600 and now my 500pf and 600 f/4 E are faster to focus and give me lower light capabilities.
So I am blessed to be fit and live where I do and have years of shotgun and target rifle shooting experience that helps me with my "gorilla" style of bird photography.
Forgot to mention I use Black Rapids cross body or double carry straps.
Nice equipment list! If that 600E ever gets too heavy for you, please be sure to let me know!
I am sure it will someday but of course then it could be my heirs disposing of itNice equipment list! If that 600E ever gets too heavy for you, please be sure to let me know!
Aww man, if I could I would!You're going to carry it for him? How thoughtful!
I use the 600mm and longer if the distance is great or the subject small. In some cases these lenses cant be surpassed.Over time I've noticed that, perhaps due to Steve's advocacy of, and stellar images from, the 600mm f4, people here seem heavily weighted towards the 600mm f4 as the pinnacle of long lenses for wildlife and bird photographers. Despite the obvious drawbacks to such an approach (you need a Sherpa, your own airplane, and a small bank $$$ of your own).
Oddly enough, this isn't what I see elsewhere. I'm in Northern California and we have a number of really big wildlife refuges. At the refuges in the area I generally see a few 800 f5.6 lenses, a few 600mm f4s, a LOT of 500mm f4 lenses, and a few 400mm f2.8 lenses (Those are the primes. Of course most of what you see are less expensive long zooms. Tamron, Sigma, Nikon, Sony). Where birds aren't a major factor, I see almost none of the really big (800/600) guns and a big preponderance of 500mm f4 lenses. (and of course, increasing numbers of PFs).
So I'm curious about the what/where/why of the choice of a supertelephoto lens. Taking all factors into account - portability, airplanes, reach with and without TCs, image quality - what's your rationale and why?
there are some engineers out there working on a whole new technology that in theory would produce a 600mm equivelant lens as small as my iPhone 11 pro. I already find the 500 pf to light for my photographic technique I am an old school barrel bull target rifle type that uses the "barrel" heavy set up of the 600 f/4 E for static stability (via inertia) and smooth swinging/panning.One of the things that'll be interesting is to see the continued weight progression on the long telephotos. When Sony and Canon came out with their most recent 600mm primes they shaved nearly 2lbs off of the weight. The result is their 600s are as light or lighter than Canon and Nikon's current 500 f4 lenses (and I assume these will get lighter in the next generation as well).