Hello everyone. I would like to ask if it's easy to get used to the Z8 quickly. I have a scheduled trip to Crete to photograph Vultures and Raptors in July and I'll probably receive my Z8 just 2-3 days before the trip if I decide to buy it. Do you think that It's possible to get used to the AF system in so little time (coming from a Z6ii)? What AF mode do you use for Birds in flight? Thanks.
Getting used to the Nikon Z8
- Thread starter Ioannis Tziamalis
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You NEED Steve's book which you can read while you wait. That's great prep. Really, the answer lies in your own ability. Nobody knows you as well as you do. Practice a lot with the Z6ii so that you're proficient with the AF and it'll be a big help.
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Thanks Patrick, I'll definitely get Steve's book!
Thank you very much Andy! It will be all so new to me, but I hope to come to grips with it as quickly as possible.
Andy, Thank you for sharing your Z8/9 setting spreadsheet. It is a great template to allow others to edit with their own setups. Speaking as one of the hairshirt BBF crowd. 
FWIW, coming from DSLRs and a Z6II I picked up a Z9 a few weeks ago. I read Steve’s setup guide and watched the setup video while the camera was being shipped. When the camera arrived it took an hour or two to walk through the menus, set things up as desired and get used to the various buttons, dial configurations, display options, etc.
I shot backyard birds that afternoon with great success and made a point to utilize all the AF and camera adjustment options to help drill in the various custom settings and to develop the muscle memory for the slightly different button positions compared to my other cameras.
The next morning I took it on a longer hike with my 500 mm PF mounted and had no trouble using it in the field with live subjects. The next day I took it out and photographed fast flying birds including swallows and again had no real trouble with things like making field adjustments on the fly, changing primary AF area mode, toggling subject/eye detection on and off and handing over AF area mode once eye detection was achieved. Basically coming from a D6, D500 and Z6II it was easy to adjust to the overall camera, the far more automated AF system and the slightly altered camera controls.
I’ve shot with the new camera every day since even if it’s just around the house or common subjects just to drill in the custom settings and to commit things to muscle memory but I haven’t really struggled at all with the new camera nor the new AF paradigms.
YMMV, but I second the recommendations to get Steve’s books, watch his setup video, and spend as much time shooting and getting familiar with the camera and your chosen custom settings as possible prior to your trip.
I shot backyard birds that afternoon with great success and made a point to utilize all the AF and camera adjustment options to help drill in the various custom settings and to develop the muscle memory for the slightly different button positions compared to my other cameras.
The next morning I took it on a longer hike with my 500 mm PF mounted and had no trouble using it in the field with live subjects. The next day I took it out and photographed fast flying birds including swallows and again had no real trouble with things like making field adjustments on the fly, changing primary AF area mode, toggling subject/eye detection on and off and handing over AF area mode once eye detection was achieved. Basically coming from a D6, D500 and Z6II it was easy to adjust to the overall camera, the far more automated AF system and the slightly altered camera controls.
I’ve shot with the new camera every day since even if it’s just around the house or common subjects just to drill in the custom settings and to commit things to muscle memory but I haven’t really struggled at all with the new camera nor the new AF paradigms.
YMMV, but I second the recommendations to get Steve’s books, watch his setup video, and spend as much time shooting and getting familiar with the camera and your chosen custom settings as possible prior to your trip.
Thank you Dave! I really hope to get used to it quickly so that I can make the best out of my trip.
Andy, thanks for your settings. Always good to see how others set up their cameras.
abc123brian
Well-known member
Everyone gave you really good advice so far. Getting Steve’s book and watching his videos on the Z8/Z9 will help you get started. Coming from a Z6ii gives you a good advantage over someone coming from a DSLR and I don’t think it will be an issue to adjust to the camera quickly. One thing to consider is the Z8 has all the same AF modes as the Z6ii (except the poorly integrated tracking option available in auto area) so if something becomes overwhelming on the trip you can revert back to your old methods from the Z6ii. You will still get faster and more accurate AF and faster frame rates. Depending on the mode you used the most on your Z6ii, it might feel nearly the same just a lot better. Overall the Z8 has a lot more customization options and that is where any confusion may come from.
I use W Area C2 with subject detection for almost everything. This is like wide area L or S, but you can change the size of the box to fit what you are shooting. I set the size of the box to what I think will work best for my subject and make adjustments between shooting if needed. I have 3D tracking set up for handoff and have a small, single AF box set to another custom button. I also have subject detection off set to RSF Hold in case it is needed to quickly turn off. Hope this helps
I use W Area C2 with subject detection for almost everything. This is like wide area L or S, but you can change the size of the box to fit what you are shooting. I set the size of the box to what I think will work best for my subject and make adjustments between shooting if needed. I have 3D tracking set up for handoff and have a small, single AF box set to another custom button. I also have subject detection off set to RSF Hold in case it is needed to quickly turn off. Hope this helps
You’ll want Steve’s book on Nikon mirrorless AF in addition to his setup book. Both are well done and will help you get up to speed. For still photography anyway, AF is the biggest change to master in the Z9/Z8. Subject detection, the ability to change AF area with a programmed button, and the ability to customize the size of wide area AF are among the most important changes from your Z6II and the most useful new features. I had a Z7II and Z6II before getting the Z9 and now a Z8 to go with it.
Thom Hogan’s ebook on the Z8 is also useful and complementary to Steve’s books in my experience. Quite comprehensive and may be useful for non-wildlife settings and use. Good section on AF too.
That said, the Z9 and Z8 are complicated and very capable cameras. Coming from a D500/D850 and Z7II/Z6II, I found there was still a learning curve. I got good shoots right away, but the cameras got better as I used them more (firmware updates made a big difference too, especially earlier in the Z9’s life, the Z8 has all those features from the start). My guess is that you will do at least as well, and probably better, with the Z8 after you set it up than with your Z6II, even right away and especially if you study Steve’s books.
Vultures are larger and slower in my experience (I see mostly turkey vultures and black vultures). Should be good subjects to start with. Not sure what other raptors you’ll see, some can be very fast (e.g., peregrine falcons or diving osprey).
Thom Hogan’s ebook on the Z8 is also useful and complementary to Steve’s books in my experience. Quite comprehensive and may be useful for non-wildlife settings and use. Good section on AF too.
That said, the Z9 and Z8 are complicated and very capable cameras. Coming from a D500/D850 and Z7II/Z6II, I found there was still a learning curve. I got good shoots right away, but the cameras got better as I used them more (firmware updates made a big difference too, especially earlier in the Z9’s life, the Z8 has all those features from the start). My guess is that you will do at least as well, and probably better, with the Z8 after you set it up than with your Z6II, even right away and especially if you study Steve’s books.
Vultures are larger and slower in my experience (I see mostly turkey vultures and black vultures). Should be good subjects to start with. Not sure what other raptors you’ll see, some can be very fast (e.g., peregrine falcons or diving osprey).
Thanks! I'll definitely get Steve's book. Yes the Vultures and the Eagles should be quite slow, but I may also see some Peregrines!
Yes Andy's SS must have taken some time to generate. I found it quite useful and I ended up modifying it to show my settings. Thanks a BUNCH Andy.....nice work - it saved me a ton of time (actually I'd probably stay lazy and not document the two banks I use). It's informative to look at the spreadsheet and see the differences between my Action and Scenics banks...I also think going over those settings a couple of times helped me learn the camera a bit better.
(FWIW, I have both the Z8 and Z9 setup the same and documented in the excel file and I also saved the settings).
A number of folk have now received their Z8's and many that I talk to are transitioning from a D850 and after 15 months with a Z9 and a few weeks with Z8 my overall observation / guidance is to ENJOY the differences and the vastly increased number and capability of tools.
Obviously the Z8 is just another Nikon and so shooters can just pick it up and use it. Thom Hogan suggests those who come from a D500, D850, D5 and D6 flipping to page 341 of his book you folk should find the Z8 fairly familiar to these recent DSLRs.
If you shoot a shutter speeds above 1/200th you will experience blackout free WYSIWYG EVF and the full 20fps. Shoot below 1/250th the fastest fps drops to 15. AND if you drop to below 1/15th the EVF will black out. Between 1/15th and 1/200th the EVF may refresh slower than 1/120th.
The main area new transitioners should focus on is the AutoFocus system and this does need careful attention.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE (how many Pleases in a row until it gets annoying) do not just select Auto Area AF and assume the camera will do the job for you. You need to pick your subject and help the camera "focus" on that target. Sure one bird or aircraft in an open sky Auto-Area AF will work fine. P mode should NEVER be used.
The first things we new Z9 and now Z8 owners learned were:
a) how each of the AF-modes actually work -- that is with Subject Detection enabled and without. The Nikon Reference Guide does an OK job - but Steve P and Thom Hogan provide details.
- Single Point and Dynamic Area are the same as the latest DSLR (which means that if you are using Dynamic Area you need to ensure your subject is back under the central point frequently otherwise focus will shift AND subject Detection does not work with these modes.
- Area AF (Wide-Large , Wide-Small, Auto-Area, C1 and C2) all focus on the closest high contrast object in the area box if Subject Detection is disabled OR if Subject Detection cannot identify a subject. Large specular highlights -- waves etc - can drag focusse a C1 or C2 shape to "look" above the water.
- 3D-Tracking -- is the most successful tool particularly when SD is engaged and able to identify the subject. When SD is disabled the camera will try to track the shape of contrast under the AF point when you initiated 3D-tracking. 3D-tracking is the mode to use if you want to focus and recompose -- it is fantastic for portraits and all other types of shooting..
b) when shooting wildlife selecting Animal Subject Detection (SD) rather than Auto speeds up AF a wee bit. Same for other subject types. SD does not work as well with some animal shapes and in some settings/lighting than others -- so be ready to adapt on the fly.
c) once you have learned how the modes actually work you will learn to benefit from HANDING OFF between AF-modes while locking on and tracking to subjects as they move through the environment and settle/land, pirch/site and takeoff and fly/move away. I and some choose to use a half depressed shutter to initiate AF-ON for the general AF mode we have chosen to use for a particular set up. AND then hand-off to 3D-tracking with AF-ON by pressing the AF-ON button. OTHERS turn off AF-ON on the shutter button and fully apply BBAF -- if they do not start out with 3D-tracking
d) If you use the shutter button for AF-ON -- use the MF/AF slider on the side of the lens to switch between AF and MF.
e) You get ONE Recall Shooting Function Hold -- per Menu Bank -- so pick -- some use it to enable or disable Subject Detection; Others use it to switch instantly from whatever they were using to 20fps and a standard set of settings to capture action as it happens.
Coming from a DSLR learning, practicing and adapting to the way the Z8 will take some time. I recommend you pick an adequate set up for your Af-modes and button allocations (I use Shutter, Af-ON, Fn1 and Fn2 for the bulk of my choices) and build muscle memory -- so that you are able to switch instantly without fumbling about while action happens.
Do please adapt to how the camera works and then work out how to make it fit exactly how you want to work. It does not work exactly the way your previous tool worked.
Precapture, 30, 60 and 120 fps options are tools to try once you have got to grips with the camera. As are so many of the other tools.
The options available for video shooters in the Z8/Z9 are vastly vastly beyond any previous Nikon bodies.
Obviously the Z8 is just another Nikon and so shooters can just pick it up and use it. Thom Hogan suggests those who come from a D500, D850, D5 and D6 flipping to page 341 of his book you folk should find the Z8 fairly familiar to these recent DSLRs.
If you shoot a shutter speeds above 1/200th you will experience blackout free WYSIWYG EVF and the full 20fps. Shoot below 1/250th the fastest fps drops to 15. AND if you drop to below 1/15th the EVF will black out. Between 1/15th and 1/200th the EVF may refresh slower than 1/120th.
The main area new transitioners should focus on is the AutoFocus system and this does need careful attention.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE (how many Pleases in a row until it gets annoying) do not just select Auto Area AF and assume the camera will do the job for you. You need to pick your subject and help the camera "focus" on that target. Sure one bird or aircraft in an open sky Auto-Area AF will work fine. P mode should NEVER be used.
The first things we new Z9 and now Z8 owners learned were:
a) how each of the AF-modes actually work -- that is with Subject Detection enabled and without. The Nikon Reference Guide does an OK job - but Steve P and Thom Hogan provide details.
- Single Point and Dynamic Area are the same as the latest DSLR (which means that if you are using Dynamic Area you need to ensure your subject is back under the central point frequently otherwise focus will shift AND subject Detection does not work with these modes.
- Area AF (Wide-Large , Wide-Small, Auto-Area, C1 and C2) all focus on the closest high contrast object in the area box if Subject Detection is disabled OR if Subject Detection cannot identify a subject. Large specular highlights -- waves etc - can drag focusse a C1 or C2 shape to "look" above the water.
- 3D-Tracking -- is the most successful tool particularly when SD is engaged and able to identify the subject. When SD is disabled the camera will try to track the shape of contrast under the AF point when you initiated 3D-tracking. 3D-tracking is the mode to use if you want to focus and recompose -- it is fantastic for portraits and all other types of shooting..
b) when shooting wildlife selecting Animal Subject Detection (SD) rather than Auto speeds up AF a wee bit. Same for other subject types. SD does not work as well with some animal shapes and in some settings/lighting than others -- so be ready to adapt on the fly.
c) once you have learned how the modes actually work you will learn to benefit from HANDING OFF between AF-modes while locking on and tracking to subjects as they move through the environment and settle/land, pirch/site and takeoff and fly/move away. I and some choose to use a half depressed shutter to initiate AF-ON for the general AF mode we have chosen to use for a particular set up. AND then hand-off to 3D-tracking with AF-ON by pressing the AF-ON button. OTHERS turn off AF-ON on the shutter button and fully apply BBAF -- if they do not start out with 3D-tracking
d) If you use the shutter button for AF-ON -- use the MF/AF slider on the side of the lens to switch between AF and MF.
e) You get ONE Recall Shooting Function Hold -- per Menu Bank -- so pick -- some use it to enable or disable Subject Detection; Others use it to switch instantly from whatever they were using to 20fps and a standard set of settings to capture action as it happens.
Coming from a DSLR learning, practicing and adapting to the way the Z8 will take some time. I recommend you pick an adequate set up for your Af-modes and button allocations (I use Shutter, Af-ON, Fn1 and Fn2 for the bulk of my choices) and build muscle memory -- so that you are able to switch instantly without fumbling about while action happens.
Do please adapt to how the camera works and then work out how to make it fit exactly how you want to work. It does not work exactly the way your previous tool worked.
Precapture, 30, 60 and 120 fps options are tools to try once you have got to grips with the camera. As are so many of the other tools.
The options available for video shooters in the Z8/Z9 are vastly vastly beyond any previous Nikon bodies.
Good summation.
Steve's Z8/Z9 guide proved indispensable to me.
The Z9 was my first ever mirrorless cam. My first SLR was a match needle Pentax with a 50mm lens (sometime back in the 70's). I was well versed with Nikon SLRs and Nikon DSLR's but the Z9 kinda overwhelmed a bit at first. There is a transition I went thru to get comfortable with mirrorless....1) turned off the monitor except for playback (Prioritize VF). 2) Enable the VF 120fps mode. 3) Whittle down the display choices. Once there it became a matter of learning the AF modes and the early going was hit n miss for me (partly because of the early Nikon Z9 FW and partly bc it just takes a bit of time to get it figured out).
But in the end what really connected all the dots was Steve's guide....
FB101
Well-known member
There are 2 sides to your question.
Will you be ready to consistently take full advantage of what the z8 can do in 2 days? Absolutely NO.
Can you be ready to have a more reliable and enjoyable AF than the z6ii for BIF in 2 days? Absolutely yes, if you follow the great advice from everybody on this thread.
‘Especially for BIF, it’s a no-brainer. It’s especially a no-brainer if you have to rely more on automated systems to detect the birds and their eyes.
And that’s not a judgement on the z6ii being bad or inadequate. It’s a judgement on the z8 being consistently that much more reliable. I can’t think of a single situation for BIF, where a z8 with fully automated AF would underperform the z6ii.
Will you be ready to consistently take full advantage of what the z8 can do in 2 days? Absolutely NO.
Can you be ready to have a more reliable and enjoyable AF than the z6ii for BIF in 2 days? Absolutely yes, if you follow the great advice from everybody on this thread.
‘Especially for BIF, it’s a no-brainer. It’s especially a no-brainer if you have to rely more on automated systems to detect the birds and their eyes.
And that’s not a judgement on the z6ii being bad or inadequate. It’s a judgement on the z8 being consistently that much more reliable. I can’t think of a single situation for BIF, where a z8 with fully automated AF would underperform the z6ii.
Thanks for the reply!!
Coming from the Z6II…the biggest thing to get used to will be the much faster and better AF…and the difference between the way U modes work and the way Banks work. But read Steve’s book and you should be fine as others have suggested. Coming from a non Z would be a much bigger difference in how things work but you’re part way there already with the Z6II.
Thank you for this valuable info. I am trying to get used to handing off Area AF (Wide Large) to 3D tracking. I just started working with that incredible combo on my Z8. Currently, I use Fn1 on my 100-400 mm lens for initial focus, then hand off to back-button focus (AF_ON) for 3D tracking. Only tried that once so far and liked it. But now I'm wondering if I should switch those buttons and let AF-ON hand off to the lens Fn1 button to 3D tracking. Any thoughts on that method?
Hi Don -- you will get every answer under the sun here. Steve likes BBAF -- I claim he is wearing a hair shirt. ... but then I am ancient and he is "The Steve" !!!
My simple approach uses the shutter button to initiate AF-ON on with my selected Af-mode for a particular set-up.
This allows me to hand off to 3D-Tracking with AF-ON on the AF-ON Button -- AND this is my absolute prefered AF mode -- HOWEVER I want to have acquired the subject I want to track first -- hence why I start one way and hand off after acquiring
My Fn1 is Dynamic Area Small + AF-ON -- WHY to be able to swap from an Area AF Mode with Subject Detection enabled to a mode that does not use SD and can punch through gras and undergrowth to whatever is under that Af-point -small because I tend to be able to keep stationary subjects within the small box.
My Fn 2 is Auto-Area AF with SD
I use my Lens Fn2 buttons primarily to recall for Prefocussed distances -- and Fn1 to save focus distances if there is not a mem set button.
MY NO 1 big learning is to NOT change this when I change lenses. Some have Fn2 and control rings and function rings -- other do not. Some lenses use a later firmware that allows us to change stuff around -- others do not.
KEEP your settings simple and consistent - using FN buttons for AF-handover is a learned skill. and needs to be in your fingers. Set-it up, try it learn it , try it learn it etc.... until when action happens you are not guessing or hunting. AFTER that work out if there is a better way a different set up that may work better - in the studio, for portraits, for some types of sports, for aircraft in flight -vs- aircraft landing and many many other types of wildlife situations. AND this is why we use the shooting and settings banks AND keep these backed up for each type of set-up (indoors, outdoors, BIF, Lions/Leopards (ground animals) .
Decide what you want to use your ONE Shooting Recall Function Hold for per Memory Bank - my general setting is to use it to immediately be able to shoot action - so 20 fps etc.... But I have also used it to turn Subject Detection on and Off [a reason to use B, C or D.
I have used Lens buttons to swap from Fx to DX and back and many other options. Currently just pre-focus save and recall.
Since I am ancient I tend to forget what I have changed stuff to -- when I have been "tinkering" so I do FREQUENTLY load settings again to a copy I keep as my CURRENT BEST Settings. I am currently going through the Z9 firmware 4.0 and updating stuff and my "reference settings files". Enough stuff has changed that I want to be sure my References menu settings saves are all current. Now we have even more buttons and options to play with - and for me to forget.
Life can be really simple -- one settings/shooting/video memory bank OR as complex as you need. It depends how different your settings need to be for each set-up/type of shoot.
I don't think anyone can answer this question for you. We all learn differently and at different pace. Will you be shooting birds in flight or static? If static then certainly AF shouldn't be a problem. You can always revert to single point and turn off subject detection if necessary. I would think as long as you have a second, more familiar body along to default to you should be fine.
Thanks for the reply!
fcotterill
Well-known member
These modern Pro cameras are indeed rather complex instruments, but Nikon's are at least manageable provided one invests in some reading and tests the new camera oneself. I for one find the menus (mostly) logical. My history with Nikon goes back to years of relying on BBAF, and I've no need to change this in the Z9. My primary custom setup consolidated with the D500 in 2016, and key principles still apply today. Back then I switched rather soon to leveraging the advantages of the AFmode+AFOn Custom setting option - so 3 complementary AFmodes on 3 buttons, including BBAF. If memory serves, I'm another who also benefited from Steve's earlier learning materials, including his first ebooks. And I also bought Thom Hogan's D850 guide.
Basically this is the HandOver (or Hybrid Focus) AF technique as it's come to be widely called over the past year. I found this setup and its modus operandi seamless in adding a D850, and eventually a D5 (with RSF!). The Handover technique is what Thom Hogan describes as 'focus decision making on demand' with customized Fn buttons.
The absence of HandOver AF is the main reason why I found the Z7 and D780 underwhelming for how I photograph wildlife, even though these are both excellent cameras in other genres.
[As an aside, I experimented with dual shutter focus release some months ago with my Z9 on FW 3.0. One reason was curiosity and another was to try and replicate a proclaimed Z9 Bug, long story short.... I found I'm yet another who prefers BBAF.... But call me old fashioned! ]
In retrospect, I took to the Z9 like the pig to the proverbial. This camera gives HandOver AF a major boost with much improved customization scope + the positives of high frame rates, wysiwyg EVF, Silent-Shooting etc. Non Blackout is a Big Plus! If one has a Z7 / Z6, then you are likely to find these Mirrorless features will be similar yet significantly improved. What takes more time is drilling into the depth and breadth of the Menus to fine tune the camera. This is where the authoritative guidebooks are essential - together with the Custom Options table, which is worth printing out and carrying with you on trips.
(There should be a Z8 dedicated equivalent, but I haven't searched the w-ww.)
Mid 2022, after 3+ months using a Z9 daily, it's been interesting to add a D6, which also has Custom Group Area modes (it inaugurated this feature in 2020) the best touch menu options etc and not least greatly underappreciated subject and eye detection, which works very reliably on many wild species. Overall, the biggest change has been learning the scope of the 3D Tracking mode with S-R. So IME despite the well know differences, I have found the D6 and Z9 have proved far more similar to use in practice, contrary to what many seem to believe. One reason is I use several of my F-mount Nikkors across both the Z9 and DSLRs.
The difference I see from a year+ of almost daily experience with the Z9's is how they allow many more options to leverage the AF and other features. I've found the Z8 is very similar, including how it allows using a full house of camera settings with one's Right hand only. The powerful sticky Subject Recognition gives considerable potential and scope; equally the Custom group Area modes (as with the D6) provide much leverage to wildlife photography. My primary modus operandi with a Pro Nikon ILC is to customize as many key functions to operate with the Right hand only - as feasible. Compared to the cameras launched 10-6 years ago, the D6 and now Z9 and Z8 have refined these options for righthand usage.
Basically this is ye good olde BBAF custom setup with big benefits of options for extra quick switches between camera settings. Although I have only tested out a Z8, I set it up very similarly (obviously catering for the different button layout). I only shoot in Manual with (usually) Auto ISO, sometimes fully manual ISO in trickier light. Since my Z9 arrived early March 2022, I've used HE* RAW for wildlife and Lossless compressed for landscapes and macro. Near line settings are in the i-Menu (focus-shift, PreRelease Burst, Delay Exposure, Shooting Banks). All the other menu settings I often need are in MyMenu, set to Fn4.
My primary Z9 custom settings include assigning the Red Record Button to scroll Focus settings;
Leveraging the AFmode+AFOn option.... Fn1 = 3D; Fn2 = "single-point" Custom Group Area (CA1 1*1)and a larger narrow rectangle as CA2;
Lens Fn was set to AutoAF+AFOn but I now use the Len Fn1 and Fn2 to Recall a preset focus position (the on-Lens controls are setup differently on Z vs F Nikkors);
Depending on the subject and challenges, sometimes I have 3D or AutoAF on BBAF so change the Fn button accordingly....
These days I use the Display button for AutoAF+AFOn (this works like a 2nd BBAF),
Fn3 to Recall Shooting Functions (Hold ie toggle) recalls settings for Action - notably faster shutterspeed & highest framerate.
It was set to switch Animal Recognition on\off in 3D tracking mode, but since the recent Firmware updates, I found I rarely needed to turn this off with Handover AF using Custom Group Area <> 3D / AUTOAF. Fn3 is accessible when the camera is in either orientation (so this would be Fn2 in the Z8)
Basically this is the HandOver (or Hybrid Focus) AF technique as it's come to be widely called over the past year. I found this setup and its modus operandi seamless in adding a D850, and eventually a D5 (with RSF!). The Handover technique is what Thom Hogan describes as 'focus decision making on demand' with customized Fn buttons.
The absence of HandOver AF is the main reason why I found the Z7 and D780 underwhelming for how I photograph wildlife, even though these are both excellent cameras in other genres.
[As an aside, I experimented with dual shutter focus release some months ago with my Z9 on FW 3.0. One reason was curiosity and another was to try and replicate a proclaimed Z9 Bug, long story short.... I found I'm yet another who prefers BBAF.... But call me old fashioned! ]
In retrospect, I took to the Z9 like the pig to the proverbial. This camera gives HandOver AF a major boost with much improved customization scope + the positives of high frame rates, wysiwyg EVF, Silent-Shooting etc. Non Blackout is a Big Plus! If one has a Z7 / Z6, then you are likely to find these Mirrorless features will be similar yet significantly improved. What takes more time is drilling into the depth and breadth of the Menus to fine tune the camera. This is where the authoritative guidebooks are essential - together with the Custom Options table, which is worth printing out and carrying with you on trips.
(
Mid 2022, after 3+ months using a Z9 daily, it's been interesting to add a D6, which also has Custom Group Area modes (it inaugurated this feature in 2020) the best touch menu options etc and not least greatly underappreciated subject and eye detection, which works very reliably on many wild species. Overall, the biggest change has been learning the scope of the 3D Tracking mode with S-R. So IME despite the well know differences, I have found the D6 and Z9 have proved far more similar to use in practice, contrary to what many seem to believe. One reason is I use several of my F-mount Nikkors across both the Z9 and DSLRs.
The difference I see from a year+ of almost daily experience with the Z9's is how they allow many more options to leverage the AF and other features. I've found the Z8 is very similar, including how it allows using a full house of camera settings with one's Right hand only. The powerful sticky Subject Recognition gives considerable potential and scope; equally the Custom group Area modes (as with the D6) provide much leverage to wildlife photography. My primary modus operandi with a Pro Nikon ILC is to customize as many key functions to operate with the Right hand only - as feasible. Compared to the cameras launched 10-6 years ago, the D6 and now Z9 and Z8 have refined these options for righthand usage.
Basically this is ye good olde BBAF custom setup with big benefits of options for extra quick switches between camera settings. Although I have only tested out a Z8, I set it up very similarly (obviously catering for the different button layout). I only shoot in Manual with (usually) Auto ISO, sometimes fully manual ISO in trickier light. Since my Z9 arrived early March 2022, I've used HE* RAW for wildlife and Lossless compressed for landscapes and macro. Near line settings are in the i-Menu (focus-shift, PreRelease Burst, Delay Exposure, Shooting Banks). All the other menu settings I often need are in MyMenu, set to Fn4.
My primary Z9 custom settings include assigning the Red Record Button to scroll Focus settings;
Leveraging the AFmode+AFOn option.... Fn1 = 3D; Fn2 = "single-point" Custom Group Area (CA1 1*1)and a larger narrow rectangle as CA2;
Lens Fn was set to AutoAF+AFOn but I now use the Len Fn1 and Fn2 to Recall a preset focus position (the on-Lens controls are setup differently on Z vs F Nikkors);
Depending on the subject and challenges, sometimes I have 3D or AutoAF on BBAF so change the Fn button accordingly....
These days I use the Display button for AutoAF+AFOn (this works like a 2nd BBAF),
Fn3 to Recall Shooting Functions (Hold ie toggle) recalls settings for Action - notably faster shutterspeed & highest framerate.
It was set to switch Animal Recognition on\off in 3D tracking mode, but since the recent Firmware updates, I found I rarely needed to turn this off with Handover AF using Custom Group Area <> 3D / AUTOAF. Fn3 is accessible when the camera is in either orientation (so this would be Fn2 in the Z8)
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fcotterill
Well-known member
It pays off to experiment with camera settings, which includes test shooting on different subjects and backgrounds (and this also applies to how you configure your iMenu and MyMenu). The challenges are to learn how to setup and integrate all these features as an ensemble for one's own needs - basically How and Where one photographs What. It helps to be flexible and try and keep an open mind, and keep trying new things. One's Muscle memory is the underlying factor to respect, however. Too many recent changes has the tendency to discombobulate the camera operator - speaking from experience - and especially in the heat of the moment. Before one does tweak settings to experiment, it is good practice to change over to a pair of Settings Banks to run the experiment, so you don't change your mainstream settings of what's proven to work reliably to date. This also allows switching back in a second (using i-menu) to working settings if you are presented with a pair of courting vultures or similar rare opportunity!
A primary lesson is one has to work out the settings that work best for you. My 0.02c cliché is one doesn't stop learning in photography. This includes trying out a new way to do something with a camera, and modern ILCs allow wide scope to tweak settings. So for the OP, while 2 days is too short a time, I agree if you hit the track by 'borrowing' a refined setup, and have prior wildlife experience, you'll be off to a good start with your Z8
So yes, as already said, i fully agree with the advice to invest in both eBooks; I rate Steve's better in explaining the How and Why for wildlife photography, together with reading through these forum threads. Consider for example, the benefits of 'Release Button to use Dial' for one, and second using the OK button selector to Preset Focus Point (optimizing scrolling the AF cursor). Steve describes this better than I can even hope in his Z8/Z9 book (pg 369).
Oh, yes, and it's wise practice to backup your settings to a card before tinkering and testing
View attachment 63543
A primary lesson is one has to work out the settings that work best for you. My 0.02c cliché is one doesn't stop learning in photography. This includes trying out a new way to do something with a camera, and modern ILCs allow wide scope to tweak settings. So for the OP, while 2 days is too short a time, I agree if you hit the track by 'borrowing' a refined setup, and have prior wildlife experience, you'll be off to a good start with your Z8
So yes, as already said, i fully agree with the advice to invest in both eBooks; I rate Steve's better in explaining the How and Why for wildlife photography, together with reading through these forum threads. Consider for example, the benefits of 'Release Button to use Dial' for one, and second using the OK button selector to Preset Focus Point (optimizing scrolling the AF cursor). Steve describes this better than I can even hope in his Z8/Z9 book (pg 369).
Oh, yes, and it's wise practice to backup your settings to a card before tinkering and testing
View attachment 63543
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