Hello BCG Forum! I'd like to print large. I'm thinking of making some 24x36 inch prints and even some 40x60 inch prints. But before I go ahead, I'd like to preview what the enlarged print will look like on my computer monitor to see if the image file will stand up to that level of enlargement and still look good--obviously I'd only be looking at a portion of the image since my monitor is far smaller then 24x36 inches. However, I can't figure out how zoom ratios correspond with enlargement sizes. For example, what size print corresponds to 1:2, 1:1, etc. Can anyone help with this? I'm using Lightroom Classic.
Large Prints
- Thread starter JollyGreybeard
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Honestly, that's really a tough one. There are just so many variables. As a VERY general rule of thumb, they say 50% magnification can give you a good idea of what it will look like, but that of course depends on the print. It seems like for upwards of 16 x 24 it works well, but much larger than that and it's hit or miss.
The real key is having good sharpness and enough pixels. If you have a good, clean file with a tack-sharp subject, it can go a LONG way towards a big enlargement - even if you're lacking in pixels (to a point). I've printed 16 x 20s that looked incredible after a heavy crop that left me around 6MP or so. However, the file was super sharp and every clean.
At any rate, with printing, it's art and science. It's tough to give perfect recommendations - even your screen resolution can affect how it looks at different magnifications. I have a standard 1920 x 1080 Eizo monitor that looks like the same magnification at 100% as my iMac Retina display looks like at 200%. So, there's just not a standard guideline.
The real key is having good sharpness and enough pixels. If you have a good, clean file with a tack-sharp subject, it can go a LONG way towards a big enlargement - even if you're lacking in pixels (to a point). I've printed 16 x 20s that looked incredible after a heavy crop that left me around 6MP or so. However, the file was super sharp and every clean.
At any rate, with printing, it's art and science. It's tough to give perfect recommendations - even your screen resolution can affect how it looks at different magnifications. I have a standard 1920 x 1080 Eizo monitor that looks like the same magnification at 100% as my iMac Retina display looks like at 200%. So, there's just not a standard guideline.
Normally, 1:1 provides a look at what a print might look like at any size. But, as Steve said, there are many variables at play and printing any image can be hit or miss at times. If the image is sharp and bright and the file large enough then it should look fine at those sizes. Printing an image at the given 1:1 ratio size as indicated by your camera manufacturer does assure you the best resolution but an image can often be "upsized" to print larger than the indicated native ratio, but upsizing a poor quality image can create artifacts. To figure sizing simply multiply by the ppi you will print at, many printers want 300 ppi (but 240 should work for larger sizes, too), so 24" x 300 = 7200 and 36" x 300 = 10,800. Thus, an image, for the best possible resolution at 300 ppi would need to be 7200 pixels by 10,800 pixels, but this is only a guideline and is for the very best possible resolution. You can do the same math for an image to print at 240 ppi, which in many instances works fine for printed images of most any larger size. You will need to ask your printer what they require in sizing for files and let them know if you have doubts about the image for printing. You can also order a smaller print first just to see how it comes out. If you use LrC the software can upsize to the size you desire by using the Print Module and then exporting as a JPEG. You can view this on your computer but I'm not sure how helpful that would be overall as screen resolution is so much lower than print resolution. Talk to your printer.
Replytoken
Well-known member
Print a "snip" test print. Send an 8x10 to the lab of a section of the full images that corresponds to the resolution. This will allow you to see what it will look like before buying a large print. The size of your "snip" test is up to you, but an 8x10 will at least give you something to work with. Alternately, if you nearby Costco with a photo lab, have them print you a large print as an artist's proof. It may not be color accurate, but it will give you the full image to look at.
Good luck,
--Ken
Good luck,
--Ken
Thank you all for the terrific advise. Your comments are very helpful.
This advice is spot on. There is NO replacement for seeing the print, printed, to know what it will look like printed
And that of course is about lots more than just sharpness of the image physically produced and very much about the colours rendered. I'm a greater tech savvy failure with printing than most things but that's why I've had over the years many people whose job it was to worry about such things on commercial print jobs 
MorganP
Well-known member
The Caveman way. This is an easy way of doing this without the math. Project the image on the wall the size you want to print then take out a sheet of paper that is 8x10 and move it around to find an area that you want to explore for color and grain ect... Tape the paper to the wall over area and crop the photo in your processing software to match the area covered by the paper on the wall. Send the file to the same lab that you plan on having your large print made and have them print you a 8x10 on paper.
This will show you what to expect.
If you want to do it the Math way search the web for a (ratio calculator). Jest remember you will need to start at the sensor size and always remember to change your units of measure so they match.
This will show you what to expect.
If you want to do it the Math way search the web for a (ratio calculator). Jest remember you will need to start at the sensor size and always remember to change your units of measure so they match.
In addition to all of the above mentioned items I seem to recall that you need to identify what the large print will be used for and at what distance will the viewer likely be. It is not probably very typical that someone would print a large print of 24x36 or larger and the viewer only standing 6 inches away. If it is to be framed, matted, and hung on a wall, at what distance will it be viewed? This is similar concept taken into account for large billboards. Just my 2 cents.
MorganP
Well-known member
I can agree more VAtammer's post.
If you want to see this in action get 6" away from you TV then move back 12 ' and compare the difference in the gran.
If you want to see this in action get 6" away from you TV then move back 12 ' and compare the difference in the gran.
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Replytoken
Well-known member
I agree that viewing distance is a key factor, but if pieces are displayed in a lobby or open setting, then I would not assume that the viewing distance is not reasonably close at least some of the time. True, people stand back to take in a whole piece, but if the piece is accessible, I have seen many a person walk up for a "closer inspection". A possible factor to consider when picking a viewing distance.
--Ken
Wow BCG Community. This information is really great! It's given me a lot to work with. I'm sure that my prints will benefit tremendously.
Calson
Well-known member
A lot depends on how the image will be printed. A inkjet printer dithers and smooths gaps between the dots on the print and so 240ppi file used for a print is likely to be the same as the print made from a 300ppi file.
There is also the notion of normal viewing distance that photographers tend to ignore completely. How many people walk up to view a painting at a distance of a foot or two? But that is the expectation with a 30x40 inche print. A billboard photo for example is printed at 110dpi and wall size posters are printed at 140dpi and nobody notices as the viewing distance is so great.
Something I learned is that the larger the print the stronger the backing should be and that is one of the greatest advantages of a pro lab. The one I use can mount prints on mat board or plastic or Masonite or other material which saves me having to have the space for a dry mount press and it also protects the print while in transit to me and when I am transporting it to client or a framing shop.
There is also the notion of normal viewing distance that photographers tend to ignore completely. How many people walk up to view a painting at a distance of a foot or two? But that is the expectation with a 30x40 inche print. A billboard photo for example is printed at 110dpi and wall size posters are printed at 140dpi and nobody notices as the viewing distance is so great.
Something I learned is that the larger the print the stronger the backing should be and that is one of the greatest advantages of a pro lab. The one I use can mount prints on mat board or plastic or Masonite or other material which saves me having to have the space for a dry mount press and it also protects the print while in transit to me and when I am transporting it to client or a framing shop.
gbodave
Active member
Isn't Topaz Gigapixel made for this and when the image is upsized won't it be available to see on the computer which I think was the original concern.
The chart on this page would be a handy reference to keep.
www.socialprintstudio.com
The chart on this page would be a handy reference to keep.
How Big Can I Print A Photo | Social Print Studio
Learn how big your can print your digital photos with our simple guide! Including how to find out the size of a digital photo, the ideal DPI to print at various sizes, and how to resize your photo.
www.socialprintstudio.com
Here in town we have Bay Photo. An outstanding Pro Lab
Here is a FAQ put out by them.
I would think most Pro Labs are willing to help
support.bayphoto.com
Here is a FAQ put out by them.
I would think most Pro Labs are willing to help