Nikon Z9 and Z8 use by video shooters

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

There's no question the Z8 (and apparently the Z9) can overheat during continuous recording in some circumstances, so users just have to be mindful and plan accordingly. No different that the A1, R5 etc. etc.
 
Last edited:
There's no question the Z8 (and apparently the Z9) can overheat during continuous recording in some circumstances, so users just have to be mindful and plan accordingly. No different that the A1, R5 etc. etc.

Yes agreed - I see that RED has just launched an updated (and larger) Komodo and a few of their other lines now have far far more cooling and use larger active cooling components as well -- perhaps this will mean no more ice packs for RED shooters -- but everyone suffers in high ambient temps. Many of these /CINE bodies use CF Express cards and only a few ultra high end use SSD in caddies.

The rule for us is not to seek to "overshoot" - why shoot 8k 60p HQ N-RAW N-LOG when 30p will do. only shoot 120p when there is action that would benefit from being used slow mo. Matt Irwin (who will shortly release a complementary vid to Ricci -- generally shoots in H.265 10-bit because "all he is doing" is posting to his very popular YT channel. He does not appear to generally share is commercial work. For some reason Matt G said he had to shoot 8.3k 60p for hours and hours as b roll -- I am sure this is not what he actually meant.
 
Hi folks!
I am still trying to figure out how to make videos in Africa and have a few questions.
The pre-conditions are as following:
1. The heat is about +38 Celsius
2. The camera is used for video as well as for stills. No dedicated card for video, CFEpress is Angel bird of 512GB, the overflow is CFexpress of 160GB. I can also make them dedicated for either video or stills.
3. No tripod, I will be shooting mostly from the vehicle using monopod or just putting the camera somewhere (beanbag, window, etc) but it is not so important, however I often use 60fps or 120fps not because of slow motion but because I can cut a more or less stable footage in post-processing. I mean, wenn it is a bit slower then it looks more stable.
By the way I realised that my footage from z30 looks more stable than from z9 .. o_O

The first question -what is extended oversampling? Somebody is using it? They say it will require more CPU what means more heat. Is it needed?
Shall be attenuator turned ON when using an external microphone?
H.265 8-bit vs 10-bit - is the size of the file much bigger? And how much? Will I be OK with 512G card for some video clips (not more than 20) and stills (not more than 300) ? Well, I can calculate for stills but I have no idea about file size of video footage. Is there some table or some source available for calculating of video files size according to codec, format and fps/time? Well.. format and time can be calculated but what is the codec-size dependency?
If using H.265 10bit which tone mode shall be used? SDR, HLG or N-Log? Is it important?

@Andy Miller Photo UK what are you using in Africa for video taking?
I am just very concerned to not overheat the camera and rather would go for 8bit and have a bit less quality file than won't have it at all. When the camera will switch off then I will not have videos as well as photos ;-) Well.. I have D850 but sometimes there is time only to switch from video to photo and not to grab the other camera+lens.
 
Hi folks!
I am still trying to figure out how to make videos in Africa and have a few questions.
The pre-conditions are as following:
1. The heat is about +38 Celsius
2. The camera is used for video as well as for stills. No dedicated card for video, CFEpress is Angel bird of 512GB, the overflow is CFexpress of 160GB. I can also make them dedicated for either video or stills.
3. No tripod, I will be shooting mostly from the vehicle using monopod or just putting the camera somewhere (beanbag, window, etc) but it is not so important, however I often use 60fps or 120fps not because of slow motion but because I can cut a more or less stable footage in post-processing. I mean, wenn it is a bit slower then it looks more stable.
By the way I realised that my footage from z30 looks more stable than from z9 .. o_O

The first question -what is extended oversampling? Somebody is using it? They say it will require more CPU what means more heat. Is it needed?
Shall be attenuator turned ON when using an external microphone?
H.265 8-bit vs 10-bit - is the size of the file much bigger? And how much? Will I be OK with 512G card for some video clips (not more than 20) and stills (not more than 300) ? Well, I can calculate for stills but I have no idea about file size of video footage. Is there some table or some source available for calculating of video files size according to codec, format and fps/time? Well.. format and time can be calculated but what is the codec-size dependency?
If using H.265 10bit which tone mode shall be used? SDR, HLG or N-Log? Is it important?

@Andy Miller Photo UK what are you using in Africa for video taking?
I am just very concerned to not overheat the camera and rather would go for 8bit and have a bit less quality file than won't have it at all. When the camera will switch off then I will not have videos as well as photos ;-) Well.. I have D850 but sometimes there is time only to switch from video to photo and not to grab the other camera+lens.

Extended Oversampling -- is described in the Z9 Reference Manual - see below -- Photolife said: “Extended Oversampling” only applies when you’re shooting 4K video at 50p or 60p. It gives you better detail and high ISO performance, at the cost of a bit of battery life.
Photolife recommends "leaving Extended Oversampling on, and adjusting Video Quality (N-RAW) based on your project’s requirements – which I’m sure you already know if you’re shooting RAW video".
All other guides say the same "better quality when shooting 4k but at the expense of battery life"
I tend to turn it on -- when shooting 4.1k 50p or 60p and off for 120p or 8k (where there it just does not apply)

Screenshot 2023-05-20 at 12.24.52.png


Attenuator -- Selection [ON] to reduce microphone gain and prevent audio distortion when recording video in loud environments -- this is simply a gain or level reduction tool, which knocks back volume levels in loud settings. It works in conjunction with the other audio settings -- particularly microphone sensitivity (I use AUTO) - I tend to turn Attenuator OFF - but then the mikes I use can control the level of signal coming from the mics and apply filters.
Turn Attenuator ON if your levels are regularly peaking and this is a random occurrence. Manually adjust levels down if you are constantly clipping -- your audio is just too hot.

It is NOT clear to me if Nikon's attenuator performs like an audio compressor, which is used to progressively reduce audio levels in according with user settings when values exceed user predefined limits OR it simply caps levels at when they hit a predefined limit -- rather like a ceiling -- nothing exceeds a peak level and so recordings loose dynamics if this happens very frequently. It maybe worth performing a few tests and look at how it performs in the fairlight module on DVR. The key is to not clip recording levels too often BUT reduce recording levels to keep dynamics while being able to hear (or put into the audio mix) a signal of what is happening.
My personal leanings are towards investing in a very good shotgun mic with Supercardioid profile and very good wind noise management (and filters) RØDE make a few and so do others - the Video Mic NTG OR the SVM which can both either sit in your hot shoe or on a bracket further forward. Both use a simple 3.5mm audio cable to connect into the mic-in port in the camera (so is recorded at 48 kHz and 24-bit when in N-RAW). Both comes with a dead cat and/or foam windshield; which do help to reduce wind noise a bit -- but these provides little benefit when gusts are over 5-10 knots. Basically you need a blimp or similar very significant tool to defeat this and even then.
Then one can leap up to another level like the RODE NTG5 Premium Lightweight Supercardioid RF-Bias Shotgun Microphone which has an XLR connector and needs phantom power so needs to be connected via a pre-amp or external recorder. As such there are various solutions most of which -- like the Tascam have tools like wind noise and compression etc.. built int and the Portacapture X6/X8 will also allow recording in 32-floating bit at various high sample rates.
Stick to a simply on board mike and plug into the mic-in; best if the mike has low and high pass filters and some kind of noise reduction AND buy the best wind/noise shield that fits and works well.

H.265 8-bit vs 10-bit - is the size of the file much bigger? YES and there are 2 types of 8-bit. Single Recording time limits may apply for the different CODEX

When shooting 4k 60p with a 32 GB card -- chose this because a 512GB will hit the recording time limit for any single recording - see table below for more varients:
H.265 10-bit 10min 23 sec [512GB == 166 mins across multiple recordings]
H.264 8-bit (mov) 22m 58 sec [512GB == 368 mins across multiple recordings]
H.264 8-bit (mp4v) hits the recording limit of 125 mins -- well 16x longer whatever this is - I would not use this format]

Tone mode shall be used? SDR, HLG or N-Log? - - This is not a question I am competent to answer -- to date I have just used N-LOG, but watching some YT vids (Gerald Undone) have me questioning my choices.

Another consideration is the base ISO you can use varies depending on format -- yes this maybe changing in the next firmware update and in the Z8. Different minimum ISO levels apply depending on the Format and tone mode. SDR seems to apply no restriction; whereas HLG set this to min ISO 400 and N-LOG set a min ISO at 800. You may need to use ND filters and or very fast shutter speeds when in bright light.

I certainly do not know the answer to should one expose normally or Expose to the RIGHT (ETTR) and does it vary by Format and Tone choices -- other than "probably" - I have no clue.

Screenshot 2023-05-20 at 13.23.20.png



The first /last question is what output are you seeking to generate eg 4k/24p or 4k/25p and genuinely how much slow motion action will you be shooting -- in other words why shoot at far higher FPS than you will ultimately need ? -- Take storage, created higher heat etc.. As will use of oversampling. AND choosing High Quality rather than Normal. Given your ambient temps I would seek to shoot with the LOWEST settings that do the job -- remembering that you will suffer terrible heat haze and other atmospheric effects. I only "used" to shoot/record very early or very late in the day.

I came back from Kenya with far far too much 8.3k 60p when I was shooting slow moving or stationary subjects.

Just pick 24/25/30p when your subjects are still and see if that works AND go for higher FPS when there is movement and action -- remembering the Shutter Angle 180 degree rule -- the mini shutter speed should be at least 2 times the FPS - so 30p -- 1/60th or much faster. 60p - 1/120th or much faster.

There are also a number of vids exploring the Z8/Z9's dual base ISO for VIDs -- native or min and 4000 -- they appear to conclude that when needing higher ISO levels jumping to 4000 yields better results than say using 1200, 2000 or so. To Quote Peter Suwara "When looking closely on either a monitor on the Z9 screen, there is an obvious jump from ISO 3200 to ISO 4000 where the noise levels do clear up dramatically."

Screenshot 2023-05-20 at 14.56.10.png
 
Last edited:
Hi folks!
I am still trying to figure out how to make videos in Africa and have a few questions.
The pre-conditions are as following:
1. The heat is about +38 Celsius
2. The camera is used for video as well as for stills. No dedicated card for video, CFEpress is Angel bird of 512GB, the overflow is CFexpress of 160GB. I can also make them dedicated for either video or stills.
3. No tripod, I will be shooting mostly from the vehicle using monopod or just putting the camera somewhere (beanbag, window, etc) but it is not so important, however I often use 60fps or 120fps not because of slow motion but because I can cut a more or less stable footage in post-processing. I mean, wenn it is a bit slower then it looks more stable.
By the way I realised that my footage from z30 looks more stable than from z9 .. o_O

The first question -what is extended oversampling? Somebody is using it? They say it will require more CPU what means more heat. Is it needed?
Shall be attenuator turned ON when using an external microphone?
H.265 8-bit vs 10-bit - is the size of the file much bigger? And how much? Will I be OK with 512G card for some video clips (not more than 20) and stills (not more than 300) ? Well, I can calculate for stills but I have no idea about file size of video footage. Is there some table or some source available for calculating of video files size according to codec, format and fps/time? Well.. format and time can be calculated but what is the codec-size dependency?
If using H.265 10bit which tone mode shall be used? SDR, HLG or N-Log? Is it important?

@Andy Miller Photo UK what are you using in Africa for video taking?
I am just very concerned to not overheat the camera and rather would go for 8bit and have a bit less quality file than won't have it at all. When the camera will switch off then I will not have videos as well as photos ;-) Well.. I have D850 but sometimes there is time only to switch from video to photo and not to grab the other camera+lens.

I should start by saying that while I do this for living, I am not super-technical, and I use what works for me and my editors/clients, not based on paper-specs or YouTube "expert" advice.

Three major influences on my settings: shooting conditions, equipment used, and agency requirements. You are describing a very much "run-and-gun" situation and I am assuming 4k (YouTube) output. Which happens to be what I did last week. Not as hot (34c) but 90% humidity.

My go-to setting for the Z9 were: H.265 10-bit N-Log, 4320 24p (8k), High. Everything is shot at ISO 800, several lenses but mostly the Z24-120S. NISI ND filters. Sony Tough 512 cards. I always match frame rate to timeline, meaning if my output is 24, so is my framerate. I never shoot 60 or 120 except for slow motion, and if I need to stabilize, post does fine for short clips. I overexpose by about a stop for noise.

My advice is to shoot 10 over 8 bit even if you give up frame rate. And 8k over 4k for more flexibility in post.

Final note. It sounds simplistic, but it's central. The hybrid sensors are foundementaly different from cinema sensors and achieving the cinametic look outdoors is really really hard, maybe impossible. Resolution, which we have plenty, really means little, and dynamic range, which we have little, is near-everything. Footage out of a Nikon Z9 will never look like a National Geo broadcast.

This 14 second throw-away clip using these settings was 700MB. I made it just for demo and spent a total of 3 minutes on it using the Nikon 709 LUT and some of my own. No color correction. We were on the Rio Tarcoles looking for giant crocs and our able Captain was all of 12 years old.

 
Extended Oversampling -- is described in the Z9 Reference Manual - see below -- Photolife said: “Extended Oversampling” only applies when you’re shooting 4K video at 50p or 60p. It gives you better detail and high ISO performance, at the cost of a bit of battery life.
Photolife recommends "leaving Extended Oversampling on, and adjusting Video Quality (N-RAW) based on your project’s requirements – which I’m sure you already know if you’re shooting RAW video".
All other guides say the same "better quality when shooting 4k but at the expense of battery life"
I tend to turn it on -- when shooting 4.1k 50p or 60p and off for 120p or 8k (where there it just does not apply)

View attachment 61620

Attenuator -- Selection [ON] to reduce microphone gain and prevent audio distortion when recording video in loud environments -- this is simply a gain or level reduction tool, which knocks back volume levels in loud settings. It works in conjunction with the other audio settings -- particularly microphone sensitivity (I use AUTO) - I tend to turn Attenuator OFF - but then the mikes I use can control the level of signal coming from the mics and apply filters.
Turn Attenuator ON if your levels are regularly peaking and this is a random occurrence. Manually adjust levels down if you are constantly clipping -- your audio is just too hot.

It is NOT clear to me if Nikon's attenuator performs like an audio compressor, which is used to progressively reduce audio levels in according with user settings when values exceed user predefined limits OR it simply caps levels at when they hit a predefined limit -- rather like a ceiling -- nothing exceeds a peak level and so recordings loose dynamics if this happens very frequently. It maybe worth performing a few tests and look at how it performs in the fairlight module on DVR. The key is to not clip recording levels too often BUT reduce recording levels to keep dynamics while being able to hear (or put into the audio mix) a signal of what is happening.
My personal leanings are towards investing in a very good shotgun mic with Supercardioid profile and very good wind noise management (and filters) RØDE make a few and so do others - the Video Mic NTG OR the SVM which can both either sit in your hot shoe or on a bracket further forward. Both use a simple 3.5mm audio cable to connect into the mic-in port in the camera (so is recorded at 48 kHz and 24-bit when in N-RAW). Both comes with a dead cat and/or foam windshield; which do help to reduce wind noise a bit -- but these provides little benefit when gusts are over 5-10 knots. Basically you need a blimp or similar very significant tool to defeat this and even then.
Then one can leap up to another level like the RODE NTG5 Premium Lightweight Supercardioid RF-Bias Shotgun Microphone which has an XLR connector and needs phantom power so needs to be connected via a pre-amp or external recorder. As such there are various solutions most of which -- like the Tascam have tools like wind noise and compression etc.. built int and the Portacapture X6/X8 will also allow recording in 32-floating bit at various high sample rates.
Stick to a simply on board mike and plug into the mic-in; best if the mike has low and high pass filters and some kind of noise reduction AND buy the best wind/noise shield that fits and works well.

H.265 8-bit vs 10-bit - is the size of the file much bigger? YES and there are 2 types of 8-bit
When shooting 4k 60p with a 32 GB card -- chose this because a 512GB will hit the recording time limit for any single recording:
H.265 10-bit 10min 23 sec [512GB == 166 mins across multiple recordings]
H.264 8-bit (mov) 22m 58 sec [512GB == 368 mins across multiple recordings]
H.264 8-bit (mp4v) hits the recording limit of 125 mins -- well 16x longer whatever this is - I would not use this format]

Tone mode shall be used? SDR, HLG or N-Log? - - This is not a question I am competent to answer -- to date I have just used N-LOG, but watching some YT vids (Gerald Undone) have me questioning my choices.

Another consideration is the base ISO you can use varies depending on format -- yes this maybe changing in the next firmware update and in the Z8. Different minimum ISO levels apply depending on the Format and tone mode. SDR seems to apply no restriction; whereas HLG set this to min ISO 400 and N-LOG set a min ISO at 800. You may need to use ND filters and or very fast shutter speeds when in bright light.

I certainly do not know the answer to should one expose normally or Expose to the RIGHT (ETTR) and does it vary by Format and Tone choices -- other than "probably" - I have no clue.

View attachment 61621


The first /last question is what output are you seeking to generate eg 4k/24p or 4k/25p and genuinely how much slow motion action will you be shooting -- in other words why shoot at far higher FPS than you will ultimately need ? -- Take storage, created higher heat etc.. As will use of oversampling. AND choosing High Quality rather than Normal. Given your ambient temps I would seek to shoot with the LOWEST settings that do the job -- remembering that you will suffer terrible heat haze and other atmospheric effects. I only "used" to shoot/record very early or very late in the day.

I came back from Kenya with far far too much 8.3k 60p when I was shooting slow moving or stationary subjects.

Just pick 24/25/30p when your subjects are still and see if that works AND go for higher FPS when there is movement and action -- remembering the Shutter Angle 180 degree rule -- the mini shutter speed should be at least 2 times the FPS - so 30p -- 1/60th or much faster. 60p - 1/120th or much faster.

There are also a number of vids exploring the Z8/Z9's dual base ISO for VIDs -- native or min and 4000 -- they appear to conclude that when needing higher ISO levels jumping to 4000 yields better results than say using 1200, 2000 or so. To Quote Peter Suwara "When looking closely on either a monitor on the Z9 screen, there is an obvious jump from ISO 3200 to ISO 4000 where the noise levels do clear up dramatically."
I agree with everything here, except I would advise against high shutter speed. I try to stick to a shutter angle of 180, so if I shoot 24, shutter speed is 50 and I step down and I use filters.
 
Hi folks!
I am still trying to figure out how to make videos in Africa and have a few questions.
The pre-conditions are as following:
1. The heat is about +38 Celsius
2. The camera is used for video as well as for stills. No dedicated card for video, CFEpress is Angel bird of 512GB, the overflow is CFexpress of 160GB. I can also make them dedicated for either video or stills.
3. No tripod, I will be shooting mostly from the vehicle using monopod or just putting the camera somewhere (beanbag, window, etc) but it is not so important, however I often use 60fps or 120fps not because of slow motion but because I can cut a more or less stable footage in post-processing. I mean, wenn it is a bit slower then it looks more stable.
By the way I realised that my footage from z30 looks more stable than from z9 .. o_O

The first question -what is extended oversampling? Somebody is using it? They say it will require more CPU what means more heat. Is it needed?
Shall be attenuator turned ON when using an external microphone?
H.265 8-bit vs 10-bit - is the size of the file much bigger? And how much? Will I be OK with 512G card for some video clips (not more than 20) and stills (not more than 300) ? Well, I can calculate for stills but I have no idea about file size of video footage. Is there some table or some source available for calculating of video files size according to codec, format and fps/time? Well.. format and time can be calculated but what is the codec-size dependency?
If using H.265 10bit which tone mode shall be used? SDR, HLG or N-Log? Is it important?

@Andy Miller Photo UK what are you using in Africa for video taking?
I am just very concerned to not overheat the camera and rather would go for 8bit and have a bit less quality file than won't have it at all. When the camera will switch off then I will not have videos as well as photos ;-) Well.. I have D850 but sometimes there is time only to switch from video to photo and not to grab the other camera+lens.
Extended oversampling makes 4k video from 8k video to reduce artifacts from line skipping. Contrary to what some people think extended oversampling doesnt do squat when you shoot in RAW. It clearly states it only applies to 4k video shot in FX at 50 or 60 fps and unlike some I have actually tested it myself. Extended oversampling while shooting in 10 bit H265 however is VERY effective and I wouldnt shoot 4k60 without it.

A 512 gig card will hold plenty of 10 bit video, the z9 will tell you how long you can record for based on card size and video specs selected.
In 10 bit, N-LOG is the safest if the scene has a high dynamic range. That being said, being able to shoot at ISO 64 makes N-RAW and SDR very attractive. File sizes when shooting compressed video will vary based on what is being shot.
 
I don't know if somebody from us really shooting 2hrs with Z9... ? But I am afraid that we will not come to those limits without camera overheat. At least, folks who are filimng in Africa. @Andy Miller Photo UK
I was filming in Zimbabwe with Z9 and 4K/120fps, the videos were not so long but short after each other. The camera made a overheating warning and swithced off. I will check how long the videos were. But that was definitely not 2hrs but about half an hour or so. It was about 35-38C and I was in the shade. The pause was not very long, perhaps 3-5minutes and camera was OK again but I did put attention on what I am doing to avoid it next time. So, I needed always keep in mind how long I do 4K/120fps.

After I watched a youtube video of Matt Granger about overheating capabilities of Z8, I decided that it will not cope in Africa with the heat. At least, not for video at 4K/120fps. Z8 is also made from a different material than Z9 so, Z9 has definitely better thermo-exchange qualities. And it sucked in Africa. I am afraid, Z8 will suck even faster. So, I am not buying it but my partner will do. I will test Z8 vs Z9 in hot conditions and let you know.
I feel waiting a little for the Z8 production model to be in the filed could be helpful.

The logic is, the Z9 has supposedly greater thermal capacity than the Z8 ?, the material in the Z8 is supposed to be different, does this therefore give the smaller lighter Z8 the same/similer thermal capacity of the Z9 ?

Things in brochures or specification sheets can differ in reality.

Different brand cards and environments may effect performance.

The Coal Face doesn't lie.

Only an opinion
 
Just posted from one of the best video technicians on Youtube...

He refereed to update 3.00 only, i didn't hear him relate to 3.10,

He has a lot of subscribers.

He was interesting to listen to, my take away is again, wait till the Z8 is in the field, until then its a lot of anticipation.

He gave the Z8 a 7.5/10 What did he give the Z9

Only an opinion
 
He refereed to update 3.00 only, i didn't hear him relate to 3.10,

He has a lot of subscribers.

He was interesting to listen to, my take away is again, wait till the Z8 is in the field, until then its a lot of anticipation.

He gave the Z8 a 7.5/10 What did he give the Z9

Only an opinion
The 7.5/10 comment was his off-the-cuff grade for Z8 (and presumably Z9) video autofocus, presumably the current version assuming he tested it (notice the subtle dig with the face closeup -- his eyes were completely out of focus). The grade doesn't mean much but FWIW my Z9 is clearly still behind the A1 when it comes to reliable video autofocus and it has nothing to do with not using the correct autofocus settings -- Nikon still has improvements to make w.r.t. video autofocus.
 
The 7.5/10 comment was his off-the-cuff grade for Z8 (and presumably Z9) video autofocus, presumably the current version assuming he tested it (notice the subtle dig with the face closeup -- his eyes were completely out of focus). The grade doesn't mean much but FWIW my Z9 is clearly still behind the A1 when it comes to reliable video autofocus and it has nothing to do with not using the correct autofocus settings -- Nikon still has improvements to make w.r.t. video autofocus.
I dont see his eyes being out of focus, I see a ridiculous crop and a lack of all around sharpness because of it. Go shoot some 4k video and zoom in as far as he did and tell me how sharp it is lol.
 
The 7.5/10 comment was his off-the-cuff grade for Z8 (and presumably Z9) video autofocus, presumably the current version assuming he tested it (notice the subtle dig with the face closeup -- his eyes were completely out of focus). The grade doesn't mean much but FWIW my Z9 is clearly still behind the A1 when it comes to reliable video autofocus and it has nothing to do with not using the correct autofocus settings -- Nikon still has improvements to make w.r.t. video autofocus.
Understand

I think Nikon has done a great job of getting things this far for them selves but they are still not quite there yet, and in the case of mirror less in general regardless of brands, it still has a little way to go.

Is this click bait or has it got some merit ? https://www.redsharknews.com/sales-of-dslrs-are-outpacing-mirrorless-but-its-not-all-that-it-seems
 
The first /last question is what output are you seeking to generate eg 4k/24p or 4k/25p and genuinely how much slow motion action will you be shooting -- in other words why shoot at far higher FPS than you will ultimately need ? -- Take storage, created higher heat etc.. As will use of oversampling. AND choosing High Quality rather than Normal. Given your ambient temps I would seek to shoot with the LOWEST settings that do the job -- remembering that you will suffer terrible heat haze and other atmospheric effects. I only "used" to shoot/record very early or very late in the day.
Oh, it is definitelly a good advice! I used 60/120 fps becasue I often shooted hand-held and I thought I could slow down and cut a piece of footage which looks more or less stable. Somehow it is true, but next time I will try with monopod.. and yes, I do take videos and pictures also in the morning and in the evening. The problem is that the temperature in Mana Pools in the evening is normally about +38 Celsius (September-October). It is becasue of evevation or altitude. Some parks in Kenya and Tanzania are located above 2000m altitude and Mana Pools about 600m as far as I remember. For example, Hwange is on 1000m and there is much better.
@Andy Miller Photo UK , thank you for such extensive detailed reply! :)

My go-to setting for the Z9 were: H.265 10-bit N-Log, 4320 24p (8k), High. Everything is shot at ISO 800, several lenses but mostly the Z24-120S. NISI ND filters. Sony Tough 512 cards. I always match frame rate to timeline, meaning if my output is 24, so is my framerate. I never shoot 60 or 120 except for slow motion, and if I need to stabilize, post does fine for short clips. I overexpose by about a stop for noise.
great advice as well! H.265 10bit - is what I was thinking about. But I need to change my habbit from 120/60fps to 30fps....
I combine clips from diferent sources and one of them is a 100€-wildlife camera which doesn't know what 24fps is :ROFLMAO: but sometimes it is interesting what it sees behind my tent. So, Im a using 30fps timeline to match all sources together.
At the moment I am interested in VLOG content and kind of Trip Reports rather than in high quality cinematic films and I know that my footage will not look like NatGeo and therefore, it is not my goal actually. I will be happy if my fooage will look stable and if the clips will match in colour ... and it is already a very high goal for me 🤩
Speaking about Natgeo - interestingly, some years ago my footage got to a series "Animal Fight Night" s.4 ep.9. The footage of the horrible quality, I was just on the right place in the right time but hey made it shine... I cannot post the film because of copy rights, but I can link my footage if somebody is interested ;-)

Great short footage of a Captain, @Nimi !

Ahh, what I don't understand why to shoot everything at ISO 800? It is a base ISO but what is anadvantage when the light is enough? Becasue of dynamic range? Will it be cut by ISO 100?

In 10 bit, N-LOG is the safest if the scene has a high dynamic range. That being said, being able to shoot at ISO 64 makes N-RAW and SDR very attractive.
Does it mean that SDR is also ok?

The logic is, the Z9 has supposedly greater thermal capacity than the Z8 ?, the material in the Z8 is supposed to be different, does this therefore give the smaller lighter Z8 the same/similer thermal capacity of the Z9 ?
this is what I also think. and if in normal environment it will not be a problem for Z8 in a hot environment it can.
 
Oh, it is definitelly a good advice! I used 60/120 fps becasue I often shooted hand-held and I thought I could slow down and cut a piece of footage which looks more or less stable. Somehow it is true, but next time I will try with monopod.. and yes, I do take videos and pictures also in the morning and in the evening. The problem is that the temperature in Mana Pools in the evening is normally about +38 Celsius (September-October). It is becasue of evevation or altitude. Some parks in Kenya and Tanzania are located above 2000m altitude and Mana Pools about 600m as far as I remember. For example, Hwange is on 1000m and there is much better.
@Andy Miller Photo UK , thank you for such extensive detailed reply! :)


great advice as well! H.265 10bit - is what I was thinking about. But I need to change my habbit from 120/60fps to 30fps....
I combine clips from diferent sources and one of them is a 100€-wildlife camera which doesn't know what 24fps is :ROFLMAO: but sometimes it is interesting what it sees behind my tent. So, Im a using 30fps timeline to match all sources together.
At the moment I am interested in VLOG content and kind of Trip Reports rather than in high quality cinematic films and I know that my footage will not look like NatGeo and therefore, it is not my goal actually. I will be happy if my fooage will look stable and if the clips will match in colour ... and it is already a very high goal for me 🤩
Speaking about Natgeo - interestingly, some years ago my footage got to a series "Animal Fight Night" s.4 ep.9. The footage of the horrible quality, I was just on the right place in the right time but hey made it shine... I cannot post the film because of copy rights, but I can link my footage if somebody is interested ;-)

Great short footage of a Captain, @Nimi !

Ahh, what I don't understand why to shoot everything at ISO 800? It is a base ISO but what is anadvantage when the light is enough? Becasue of dynamic range? Will it be cut by ISO 100?


Does it mean that SDR is also ok?


this is what I also think. and if in normal environment it will not be a problem for Z8 in a hot environment it can.

In Log, native ISO has the highest dynamic range.
 
Oh, it is definitelly a good advice! I used 60/120 fps becasue I often shooted hand-held and I thought I could slow down and cut a piece of footage which looks more or less stable. Somehow it is true, but next time I will try with monopod.. and yes, I do take videos and pictures also in the morning and in the evening. The problem is that the temperature in Mana Pools in the evening is normally about +38 Celsius (September-October). It is becasue of evevation or altitude. Some parks in Kenya and Tanzania are located above 2000m altitude and Mana Pools about 600m as far as I remember. For example, Hwange is on 1000m and there is much better.
@Andy Miller Photo UK , thank you for such extensive detailed reply! :)


great advice as well! H.265 10bit - is what I was thinking about. But I need to change my habbit from 120/60fps to 30fps....
I combine clips from diferent sources and one of them is a 100€-wildlife camera which doesn't know what 24fps is :ROFLMAO: but sometimes it is interesting what it sees behind my tent. So, Im a using 30fps timeline to match all sources together.
At the moment I am interested in VLOG content and kind of Trip Reports rather than in high quality cinematic films and I know that my footage will not look like NatGeo and therefore, it is not my goal actually. I will be happy if my fooage will look stable and if the clips will match in colour ... and it is already a very high goal for me 🤩
Speaking about Natgeo - interestingly, some years ago my footage got to a series "Animal Fight Night" s.4 ep.9. The footage of the horrible quality, I was just on the right place in the right time but hey made it shine... I cannot post the film because of copy rights, but I can link my footage if somebody is interested ;-)

Great short footage of a Captain, @Nimi !

Ahh, what I don't understand why to shoot everything at ISO 800? It is a base ISO but what is anadvantage when the light is enough? Becasue of dynamic range? Will it be cut by ISO 100?


Does it mean that SDR is also ok?


this is what I also think. and if in normal environment it will not be a problem for Z8 in a hot environment it can.
SDR is also fine in 10 bit h265 as long as you dont need to correct for a crazy high dynamic range scene.
 
Oh, it is definitelly a good advice! I used 60/120 fps becasue I often shooted hand-held and I thought I could slow down and cut a piece of footage which looks more or less stable. Somehow it is true, but next time I will try with monopod.. and yes, I do take videos and pictures also in the morning and in the evening. The problem is that the temperature in Mana Pools in the evening is normally about +38 Celsius (September-October). It is becasue of evevation or altitude. Some parks in Kenya and Tanzania are located above 2000m altitude and Mana Pools about 600m as far as I remember. For example, Hwange is on 1000m and there is much better.
@Andy Miller Photo UK , thank you for such extensive detailed reply! :)


great advice as well! H.265 10bit - is what I was thinking about. But I need to change my habbit from 120/60fps to 30fps....
I combine clips from diferent sources and one of them is a 100€-wildlife camera which doesn't know what 24fps is :ROFLMAO: but sometimes it is interesting what it sees behind my tent. So, Im a using 30fps timeline to match all sources together.
At the moment I am interested in VLOG content and kind of Trip Reports rather than in high quality cinematic films and I know that my footage will not look like NatGeo and therefore, it is not my goal actually. I will be happy if my fooage will look stable and if the clips will match in colour ... and it is already a very high goal for me 🤩
Speaking about Natgeo - interestingly, some years ago my footage got to a series "Animal Fight Night" s.4 ep.9. The footage of the horrible quality, I was just on the right place in the right time but hey made it shine... I cannot post the film because of copy rights, but I can link my footage if somebody is interested ;-)

Great short footage of a Captain, @Nimi !

Ahh, what I don't understand why to shoot everything at ISO 800? It is a base ISO but what is anadvantage when the light is enough? Becasue of dynamic range? Will it be cut by ISO 100?


Does it mean that SDR is also ok?


this is what I also think. and if in normal environment it will not be a problem for Z8 in a hot environment it can.
I am curios as to what is the different materiel used in the Z8, is it to reduce weight, disperse heat more efficiently ?
If you break it down, currently there is a lot of plastic like material used, as well as alloy casting, a little metal, then electronic components, and a few small electric motors, finally some batteries, the goal was to reduce weight and size especially for Video applications.

Canon with the R3 seems to be focusing on carbon fiber, it will be good to see where this goes in the R1 if at all.

Nikon has recently bought a parts printing manufacturing company as i recall, diversity and reasoning is no doubt well deserved.

Will Nikon make integral parts now out of specially formulated materials using this printing method/technology. I ask, a fully alloy camera body casting consumes lots of costly energy to make, it often needs to be run in efficient batch sizes, if the body where printed to order, it would be a winner, also the energy needed would be insignificant by comparison. WIN WIN WIN< energy cost weight.

The key point is lighter smaller more cost effectiveness seems to be the goal especially for video.

The Z8 is a great move being a Z9 mini me, or take two for revenue and profits, this makes the Z9 well !!!, why would many people even want one compared to the Z8, i guess this indicates the need to differentiate the Z9 from the Z8 more, this may well be in the Z9 II, i feel may arrive after the Z8 has pipe lined, ie: hence stock needs to be available quickly and flow quickly as December for a Z9 II upgrade may well be real to get in ahead of the forthcoming A1II, R1, possibly, who knows but it sounds like a reasonable assumption.

I feel the improvements in the Z9 II if its even called that will be in Video, some hardware, one area is further improvement in focusing especially for video.
I feel late 23 early 24 will be interesting, the Z8 will or has been labeled more a D850 replacement than a Z9. Hence the Z9 II will need to be a real cut above and soon.

Only an opinion
 
I am curios as to what is the different materiel used in the Z8, is it to reduce weight, disperse heat more efficiently ?
If you break it down, currently there is a lot of plastic like material used, as well as alloy casting, a little metal, then electronic components, and a few small electric motors, finally some batteries, the goal was to reduce weight and size especially for Video applications.

Canon with the R3 seems to be focusing on carbon fiber, it will be good to see where this goes in the R1 if at all.

Nikon has recently bought a parts printing manufacturing company as i recall, diversity and reasoning is no doubt well deserved.

Will Nikon make integral parts now out of specially formulated materials using this printing method/technology. I ask, a fully alloy camera body casting consumes lots of costly energy to make, it often needs to be run in efficient batch sizes, if the body where printed to order, it would be a winner, also the energy needed would be insignificant by comparison. WIN WIN WIN< energy cost weight.

The key point is lighter smaller more cost effectiveness seems to be the goal especially for video.

The Z8 is a great move being a Z9 mini me, or take two for revenue and profits, this makes the Z9 well !!!, why would many people even want one compared to the Z8, i guess this indicates the need to differentiate the Z9 from the Z8 more, this may well be in the Z9 II, i feel may arrive after the Z8 has pipe lined, ie: hence stock needs to be available quickly and flow quickly as December for a Z9 II upgrade may well be real to get in ahead of the forthcoming A1II, R1, possibly, who knows but it sounds like a reasonable assumption.

I feel the improvements in the Z9 II if its even called that will be in Video, some hardware, one area is further improvement in focusing especially for video.
I feel late 23 early 24 will be interesting, the Z8 will or has been labeled more a D850 replacement than a Z9. Hence the Z9 II will need to be a real cut above and soon.

Only an opinion
I don't think anyone is asking for lighter body for video purposes, and with little doubt it will hurt heat dissipation. The Z9 is superior in at least 3 major ways to the Z8 for video: cards, battery and heat management.
 
I don't think anyone is asking for lighter body for video purposes, and with little doubt it will hurt heat dissipation. The Z9 is superior in at least 3 major ways to the Z8 for video: cards, battery and heat management.

I get the feeling there are simple work arounds.

Battery -

1) On the Z8 A Battery can be added or removed from the grip without the need to stop recording, just don't run the first battery flat, its just the outside one you change.

2) Also i suspect for serious video it will be fashionable to use a plug in power pack ( like a small phone size) especially for long video taking, the power pack will eliminate heat generated from the internal battery which will be removed.

Cards - for most people are not an issue, very few people right to both cards at once especially for video..........

Heat - dissipation can be reduced even further, if Canon gets the jump with the R1 and its intended connectivity plans of streaming from camera directly to your outlook in box or
drop box or what ever.

I recall the CEO of Canon once saying we Canon need to focus on recording and streaming directly to your in box etc, we need to be like a smart phone just with removable glass.

That said

Nikon did a press interview, i think i saw it even in this forum somewhere, the interview said they made the Z8 the way it is because many people particularly from the video sector were asking for a lighter smaller Z 9 camera. Unless i misread things.

I also recall several reviewers complain that while the Z9 is the best hybrid video camera out there at the moment, it is to heavy ? for video.

Ok doing a wedding - event, you have a small power pack the size of a phone on your waist belt, this is for flash - led lighting, and for the camera power, standard operational practice i recall ?.

Gone is the thermal issue/challenge coming from cards or batteries.

Hypothesis.......Connectivity and where the Canon R1 may very well shine is not depending on massive sized cards or batteries that are generating heat, the recordings will be streamed (wireless or wired to a or via a small transmitter ?)

Has Nikon missed the boat or maybe it will pick it up in the Z9II before the R1 A1II beats them to it. Who knows.

Only an opinion
 
I get the feeling there are simple work arounds.

Battery -

1) On the Z8 A Battery can be added or removed from the grip without the need to stop recording, just don't run the first battery flat, its just the outside one you change.

2) Also i suspect for serious video it will be fashionable to use a plug in power pack ( like a small phone size) especially for long video taking, the power pack will eliminate heat generated from the internal battery which will be removed.

Cards - for most people are not an issue, very few people right to both cards at once especially for video..........

Heat - dissipation can be reduced even further, if Canon gets the jump with the R1 and its intended connectivity plans of streaming from camera directly to your outlook in box or
drop box or what ever.

I recall the CEO of Canon once saying we Canon need to focus on recording and streaming directly to your in box etc, we need to be like a smart phone just with removable glass.

That said

Nikon did a press interview, i think i saw it even in this forum somewhere, the interview said they made the Z8 the way it is because many people particularly from the video sector were asking for a lighter smaller Z 9 camera. Unless i misread things.

I also recall several reviewers complain that while the Z9 is the best hybrid video camera out there at the moment, it is to heavy ? for video.

Ok doing a wedding - event, you have a small power pack the size of a phone on your waist belt, this is for flash - led lighting, and for the camera power, standard operational practice i recall ?.

Gone is the thermal issue/challenge coming from cards or batteries.

Hypothesis.......Connectivity and where the Canon R1 may very well shine is not depending on massive sized cards or batteries that are generating heat, the recordings will be streamed (wireless or wired to a or via a small transmitter ?)

Has Nikon missed the boat or maybe it will pick it up in the Z9II before the R1 A1II beats them to it. Who knows.

Only an opinion

My point is, no one will buy an 8 over a 9 because of the 8's vid features. If you get an 8 over a 9 it's for other reasons and it will shoot great video and there are things you can do to manage around the heat and storage and battery.

Connectivity solution for video (known as C2C) is already here with Frame.io (Adobe product) and implemented by Fuji and Red and more coming.
 
If folk go over to the General Discussion - you can see my posts on Steve book and the fact the Z8 Reference Guide is not on line and I have completed a first pass at updating my settings spreadsheet.
 
I just cannot understand why video with a camera with all the issues such as over heating- recording time let alone which lens etc, it absolutely beats me.
I don't have those problems with a decent camcorder the Panasonic HC-X1500 and a lot cheaper than cameras and lenses mentioned in previous posts. I have the equivilant of up to 600mm continuous zoom in/out without even a lens change - built in ND filters - 4k recording- IR built in and able extract a frame for a stills picture just to mention a couple of things this camcorder can do. including live broadcast without wires.

It seems nobody wants to check it out and I have no association with panasonic whatsoever

Using a camera strikes me that many are so obsessed with what a camera can do they are blind to alternatives and what it is unable to do.

Oh and I do have a Nikon D810 which does both but oh boy what a pain deciding on which lens to use- which ND filter and no IR either, let alone the weight of carrying about a lot of gear I may not need
My interest is to capture the high quality imagery of very skittish fast-moving (in many cases) wildlife without a $100k cinema rig, which means my only option as an amateur is to accept modern hybrid bodies shortcomings like overheating, limited record times and lack of ND's. But damn, when matched with quality lenses the output from the best hybrids can be absolutely stunning -- true National Geographic-esq stuff. In my world camcorders are great for B-roll, but that's about it.
 
Back
Top