Seeking advice - trip to Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Black Hills, Badlands

[Wng'Nt]

Hey folks, my wife and I are thinking about a trip to Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Black Hills, and Badlands. Read that as 1 or a combination of them since we're very early in the planning stages and seeking input on how to structure the trip. For me it's certainly also about where to go for photos. This would be the first time for either of us. We probably only have a week, might be able to talk her into stretching it out a day or two. I can't give all the time to photography (she doesn't have the passion or patience that I was given). I suspect a week isn't sufficient for any one place really if I could just do photography.
This could change, but we're considering flying into Boise, drive over to Yellowstone and the Tetons and then start our way back home to Missouri probably taking in the Black Hills and Badlands along the way. How much time might we need at these great sights? I'm mostly into bird and animal photography and will do some landscape, but I in no way consider myself a landscape photographer and this isn't the time to practice that. With that said, lovely landscapes are certainly something to take in and enjoy and my wife would probably appreciate that too.
Are there any gem locations off the beaten tourist path that you might suggest? What about traveling with big glass (600mm) and tripod and other equipment?
Any and all tips and tricks are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[MartyD]

Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons are my favorite places on earth! I usually get a few trips in each summer and just returned from my August fishing trip in the northeast corner of Yellowstone last Friday. I don't know when you are planning on making the trip but the smoke from the fires on the west coast rolled in on Thursday making any landscape photography impossible and even wildlife viewing was difficult.

Were you planning on making the trip this fall?

 

[DRwyoming]

@MartyD is right, we can't even see the Tetons from Jackson right now with the smoke though we have had some great sunsets. Wildlife is a mixed bag, the far away stuff is going to be tough until the smoke clears, even if you see them, good images will be tough shooting through a lot of smoke (though you might get some great creative stuff). OTOH, for subjects you can get closer to the smoke is doing an amazing job of diffusing the midday light. We've got soft shadows all day long with the smoke in the air which has really stretched the time window for decent light.

I can point you to some great landscape spots, especially in the Tetons but realistically I spend as much time driving around looking for wildlife as anyone even though I live here. The wildlife generally speaking isn't highly clustered to certain spots. But it's always worth a slow drive by Pilgrim Creek area looking for Griz and there are always Bison up North by Elk Flats and Triangle X ranch. The dirt road just South of Signal Mountain can be good near sunset for bull Elk and the Snake River just below Jackson Lake dam can be good for waterfowl including American White Pelicans but it can also be overrun with families and fishermen so it's hit or miss.

One thing to know the park has shut down all parking on the Northern half of the Moose Wilson road and have signs out saying that you can't stop and all wildlife viewing should be done as you roll by. That's cut out one of the major wildlife photo corridors. Once you start down the road you can't even pull over and park until you're much further South and it's that Northern stretch where you're most likely to see moose and bears. The price of over popularity and boneheads stopping in the middle of the road to watch and photograph wildlife over the years.

 

[MartyD]

I usually spend more time looking for wildlife during my June trip but here is what I would suggest in Yellowstone and the Tetons. Some random thoughts.

The wildlife moves based on time of year. I know when we were in Yellowstone the bison rut was winding down and the large herds were starting to break into smaller herds. We usually see large herds in the Lamar Valley but this year they were much more dispersed.

The Lamar Valley in the northeast corner of Yellowstone is a popular spot for bear and wolf watching. Spend time traveling the valley and talk to people, they will usually share their experiences over the previous days. The Lamar Valley is the stretch from Tower Junction to near Cooke City.

Slough Creek campground road off of the Tower Junction/Cooke City road is a popular wolf and bear area.

The drive between Tower Junction and Mammoth is also a good stretch for bears and other wildlife.

The road between Canyon and Tower is closed and will be until 2022. This was a good wildlife area and the road closure makes getting around Yellowstone a little more difficult.

Haden Valley is another popular bear and wolf area.

You are likely to see black bear, elk, moose, and other wildlife anywhere in the park. You just have to keep moving.

We have seen moose on the Two Ocean Lake hike in the Tetons.

The Swan Lake hike near Colter Bay in the Tetons is a short hike with good wildlife potential.

We were in the Tetons in June this year and had some cool grizzly sightings. Grizzly 399 has 4 cubs and spends time along the roadside around Signal Mountain. Grizzly 610 has two yearling cubs and also spends time in the same area. I took some video this June of the bears together. I believe they head more south later in the summer.

Snow is a possibility almost any time of year in Yellowstone. It it happens it can be an amazing opportunity to photography the thermal features and the landscape.

I had a somewhat strange experience this past week in Yellowstone. We usually travel the Lamar Valley early and late and fish the rest of the day. There was a bison carcass about 150 yards off the road west of the Slough Creek campground road. There is a serious group of people that follow and observe the wolves and grizzlies in the valley and they are usually a respectful and serious group of observers. This year near the carcass it was more of a block party. We saw wine and cheese, coolers, and blankets stretched out on the ground. It seem more like a group waiting for a fireworks display on the 4th of July. I have attached a photo below to show the smoke as well as the viewing group. We did see one wolf feeding on the carcass the previous night but left early on the evening in the photo below.

If I think of anything else I will post again. Have a great trip!

You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

 

[bsinc1962]

A week is a tough one. You could easily spend a week in the Tetons, a week in Yellowstone, and a week in the Badlands and still not scratch the surface. Boise to the Tetons and Yellowstone is most of a days travel. You might want to think about starting in Jackson or Bozeman.
May/June or September/October are prime time for Wildlife. Not that other times of the year aren't great but for a first trip you want the best odds.

 

[DRwyoming]

Boise to the Tetons and Yellowstone is most of a days travel. You might want to think about starting in Jackson or Bozeman.

Good advice, other options that save drive time but are also cost effective would be Idaho Falls or Pocatello as there are often less expensive flights there than into Jackson and I.F. at least is only a bit over an hour away.

 

[Wng'Nt]

Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons are my favorite places on earth! I usually get a few trips in each summer and just returned from my August fishing trip in the northeast corner of Yellowstone last Friday. I don't know when you are planning on making the trip but the smoke from the fires on the west coast rolled in on Thursday making any landscape photography impossible and even wildlife viewing was difficult.

Were you planning on making the trip this fall?

Yeah, we're thinking within the next couple months. Good to know about the smoke rolling in. Thanks

 

[Wng'Nt]

Wow, such great info everybody! Thanks so much. I'll have to keep tabs on the smoke situation as we get nearer to our timeframe which should be within the next couple months. Hope to have some good photos to share afterwards.

 

[DavidT]

Good advice, other options that save drive time but are also cost effective would be Idaho Falls or Pocatello as there are often less expensive flights there than into Jackson and I.F. at least is only a bit over an hour away.

I would spend one week in Yellowstone and Tetons. You can fly right into the Tetons. Maybe the flight is more expensive however the savings in time and gas is worth it. Last time I went I flew into Cody WY, next time I fly I will go right into Jackson Hole.

 

[DavidT]

I usually go the last week of September first week of October. The animals are very active, the majority of tourist are gone. Some nice weather however depending on the year you might see a little snow which is great but not enough to kill a trip. The cooler mornings offer some great shots with animals breath. You need to plan a bit as some places are closed by that time but I had no problem with lodging and places to eat. I stay in Gardner and West Yellowstone.