Thom Hogan's article on Learn, Practice and Master
- Thread starter jcgamble
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Unless you have magnetic filters, sounds time consuming to remove and reinstall the filter. If difficult it will not be done
jhorsch
Active member
Wow, comments about damage caused by microfiber cloths is news to me. O, is there a partcular brand of cleaning fluid you recommend?
AnnetteJane
Active member
Thanks for sharing.
Roy
Well-known member
Pure Water is best.
I've seen too many lenses where the coating has been totally scrubbed off with microfibre cloths.
The worst microfibre cloths are the ones that have been washed in a washing machine leaving abrasive crystals in the cloth.
Clean with a REAL cotton swab from the centre of the glass out in a spiral...
Absolutely right -- Thom is a great source of the truth. Sadly those who would benefit from his words are the same group who expect a Z9 to do everything for them and will not both to learn, practice or master how to use the Z9 (which is not another DSLR) to help them take great shots.
fcotterill
Well-known member
Once again, so much with photography hangs on learning how to use cameras and lenses efficiently, and putting in the hours to hone muscle memory etc. There's also the serious matter of the 4" behind the camera 
On the subject of protective filters, high quality is essential. The top makes of filters are almost equal in optical quality: Marumi, Nikon, Zeiss etc. Some years back I standardized on Marumi DHG MC Lens Protect. The glass is thinner than most other options.
On the subject of protective filters, high quality is essential. The top makes of filters are almost equal in optical quality: Marumi, Nikon, Zeiss etc. Some years back I standardized on Marumi DHG MC Lens Protect. The glass is thinner than most other options.
Like many others, I fully agree with Thom’s blog post. The Z9 (and R3, and A1) is a complex professional camera body. The manual is long and it takes some effort to set these cameras up and to understand how to best use them. Steve certainly will get an order from me, when his Z9 ebook comes out.
As to protective filters: I live within 2 miles of the Atlantic Ocean and I often photograph at the edge of salt waters. I greatly prefer to gently clean a high quality protective filter than to clean my lens element after each outing. However, I also always use my lens hoods.
As to protective filters: I live within 2 miles of the Atlantic Ocean and I often photograph at the edge of salt waters. I greatly prefer to gently clean a high quality protective filter than to clean my lens element after each outing. However, I also always use my lens hoods.
Roy
Well-known member
Agreed - Its better to consider a filter disposable and discard it every 6 month or so than damage the front coating on a lens...Like many others, I fully agree with Thom’s blog post. The Z9 (and R3, and A1) is a complex professional camera body. The manual is long and it takes some effort to set these cameras up and to understand how to best use them. Steve certainly will get an order from me, when his Z9 ebook comes out.
As to protective filters: I live within 2 miles of the Atlantic Ocean and I often photograph at the edge of salt waters. I greatly prefer to gently clean a high quality protective filter than to clean my lens element after each outing. However, I also always use my lens hoods.
If there's a lot of dust or spray about a filter can pay its way. But filters ain't filters as they say in the classics.
Getting a large filter to perform well on a long telephoto is a big ask in physics terms. But you can easily evaluate yours...
Getting a large filter to perform well on a long telephoto is a big ask in physics terms. But you can easily evaluate yours...
O
Well-known member
O
Well-known member
If you cant see any negative optical effect on your images using a UV filter then using a UV filter is a good idea.
I found a UV filter effected my long zoom 150-500 and some smaller primes.
That said.......
I bought 2 x 77mm B+W limited edition Gold MRC UV filters, i got them for $70 AUD each, NEW from a wholesale dealer importer, lovely box and presentation.
The A B and Blind Test...............
Ok on my 24-70 2.8 G and D3X in sunlight shooting a brick wall building and roof with a blue sky above, the difference was measurable/noticeable but small.
With the filter on it added a tiny little micro colour contrast, it was like using a very sublet gentle polarizer to describe the difference, it of course its not a polarizer.
The mortar between the bricks when zoomed in seemed to have nicer more natural colour and contrast detail, is that possible ?, well its the only way i could describe it.
As to the A B comparison of images side by side standing back looking at them on a 30 inch screen, the filter on was ever so slightly noticeable and the preferred look even in the blind test.
So many people say they cant see the difference or benefit and that seems often to be the case, well the variable in all that is the glass, camera, graphics card, and screen they use as well as the type of filter in question.
My self, i give it a tick and use only this particular B+W limited edition Gold MRC UV filter for positive optical benefits outdoors.
ie: if its adding and not taking away anything its a win.
Only an opinion
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Roy
Well-known member
Without a Hood a UV filter can increase the chance of flare.
But on the lenses I use them i'm glad for the extra protection and ease of cleaning ...
But on the lenses I use them i'm glad for the extra protection and ease of cleaning ...
Using a cheaper plastic type front filter I learned years ago can have an easily detectable effect on image sharpness.
With good quality clear filters any loss of sharpness can be hard to detect, though double highlight issues are not unknown.
O
Well-known member
I just use Rosco lens optics cleaner and lens tissue from Stanford CT its a 236mm bottle that l;ast a long time i have several on teh shelf i decant form into a small atomizer.
B and H would also have good cleaners. Or if available i have found the Ziess wipes to be ok.
The secret is to use ones that don't leave a residual and fully everberate.
Coatings on lenses and filters in cases can be fragile so be gentle.
When cleaning Circular Polarizers there can be a tendency to get fluid in between the two elements hence its important for a cleaner that evaporates.
I am no expert but i am often in a lot of salt mist and spary, i wash with water first to rmeove teh salt then use a cleaner, that's me.
Only an opinion
O
Well-known member
I found on longer lenses like my 150-500 150-600 the same slower and slightly softer, but it wasn't a premium brand.