What's your latest equipment purchase?

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M y most recent was a Godox tt685n. I wanted a flash that was more powerful than my SB 400 which I still use for outdoor fill. Really liked the reviews and especially the price.

Good choice! I went for the one with the lithium battery pack as with 3 Nikon flashes all taking AA batteries managing all of my rechargable AAs was/is an nightmare. I have about 24 and try to rotate them to even out their useage. The Lithium pack V860mkii recycles on full power in under 2 seconds and also gives 600+ flashes. I've also got a V350 for my Fuji kit, again with a lithium power pack.

I'd never buy another Nikon flash.
 
Just curious, what's been your latest camera equipment purchase, and why did you buy it? How do you plan to use it, and how do you think it will improve your work?

I'll go first: just bought a Nikkor 16-35 f4, which I plan to use for landscapes. To date, I've been using the Nikkor 24-70 for landscape work, which has worked beautifully, but I'd like to try something wider, to get those dramatic fore, mid, and backgrounds that draw the eye into the image. Hoping my new lens does the trick!
Nice rig!
What - no hotshoe cover!
 
I started out with a Nikon point-and-shoot with a telescoping lens. I had one advantage. I could often get a good enough shot to identify the bird in iBirdSluth.

My next step was a Nikon D-7200 with a Nikon 75-300 DX lens. The setup is incredibly light and quite cheap. Good pictures were to be had if 300mm was enough reach.

My next step was to replace the Nikon 75-300 DX with a Sigma 150-600 Contemporary lens. This gave good reach but was not really hand-holdable for me. (your mileage may vary). My solution was a Benro monopod and a mono-gimbal as recommended by Steve Perry. That was a good solution for a long time. The Sigma 150-600C is a good low-cost choice for 600mm reach. The Sigma 1.4TC degraded the image too much for me.

My NEW setup is a Nikon D-500 and a Nikon 500mm pf lens. The new camera added 2 oz. to the weight but the lens subtracted about a pound. The result is that the setup is handholdable, but barely. If I could handle 6 more oz then a D-850 would be better. What you get for 6 oz and nearly $2K with the D-850 is a wider field of view than the D-500 with the same pixel density in DX view. That makes tracking birds in flight easier, but the weight makes it much harder.

My rule about hand holdable a rig is: How long can you hold the camera locked on to a perched bird waiting for it to fly or a circling hawk waiting to dive towards its prey? A D-500 with a 75-300 DX quite a while, a D-500 with a 500pf a few minutes, a D-500 with a Sigma 150-600C not long and a D-500 with a Nikon 200-500 forget it. I might add that a monopod and the Wimberly mono-gimbal that Steve recommended makes semi-handholding a heavier rig much easier, but it is still not hand holding. A 600e forget it. I need a nap just watching Steve with his 600e rig on his back.

What I found with the D-500 was a better autofocus mode (GRP) that makes tracking birds in flight much easier, a joystick that makes moving the single-point autofocus mode a snap and control assignment and body ergonomics that makes moving between the two modes a snap. For the GRP mode I use back button autofocus (AF-ON) while pressing the joystick performs the same function plus switching to single point autofocus. While in normal GRP, single point is just a ½” move of my thumb away. When I mount a T/C I will also use the mono-gimble.

As I learn to use these control settings, I find that the joystick must be carefully pressed straight down or the camera will revert to GRP and the focus point will move. If planning to use single-focus extensively it seems better to switch to single focus and use AF-ON. I also find that I often unintentionally move the command dial. A 1/2000 often winds up 1/6000 in the heat of catching a cool bird in flight. To stop this I set F1 to lock shutter speed.

That 75-300 DX lens has not been retired. The spare D-500 is ready when the subject gets too close for a 500mm lens.
 
Received yesterday my new Fuji 70-300mm, my used Fuji 10-24mm that is MINT - not even marked on the lens mount and a used Fuji 1.4x TC which is also mint.

This was taken with the 70-300 with 1.4x TC. Straight out of camera shot in RAW with nothing done other than my standard web resizing to jpg that does have a little sharpening added to compensate for the resizing and conversion to jpg, then I had to resize again for this forum, so the IQ is not as good as the original. The black label measures 6x2 cm, about 3 metres range, ISO 6400, f8, 35mm equivalent 630mm if you include the crop factor, hand held, 1/25. Can't deny that I'm a happy bunny.

_XT416141200.jpg
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I started out with a Nikon point-and-shoot with a telescoping lens. I had one advantage. I could often get a good enough shot to identify the bird in iBirdSluth.

My next step was a Nikon D-7200 with a Nikon 75-300 DX lens. The setup is incredibly light and quite cheap. Good pictures were to be had if 300mm was enough reach.

My next step was to replace the Nikon 75-300 DX with a Sigma 150-600 Contemporary lens. This gave good reach but was not really hand-holdable for me. (your mileage may vary). My solution was a Benro monopod and a mono-gimbal as recommended by Steve Perry. That was a good solution for a long time. The Sigma 150-600C is a good low-cost choice for 600mm reach. The Sigma 1.4TC degraded the image too much for me.

My NEW setup is a Nikon D-500 and a Nikon 500mm pf lens. The new camera added 2 oz. to the weight but the lens subtracted about a pound. The result is that the setup is handholdable, but barely. If I could handle 6 more oz then a D-850 would be better. What you get for 6 oz and nearly $2K with the D-850 is a wider field of view than the D-500 with the same pixel density in DX view. That makes tracking birds in flight easier, but the weight makes it much harder.

My rule about hand holdable a rig is: How long can you hold the camera locked on to a perched bird waiting for it to fly or a circling hawk waiting to dive towards its prey? A D-500 with a 75-300 DX quite a while, a D-500 with a 500pf a few minutes, a D-500 with a Sigma 150-600C not long and a D-500 with a Nikon 200-500 forget it. I might add that a monopod and the Wimberly mono-gimbal that Steve recommended makes semi-handholding a heavier rig much easier, but it is still not hand holding. A 600e forget it. I need a nap just watching Steve with his 600e rig on his back.

What I found with the D-500 was a better autofocus mode (GRP) that makes tracking birds in flight much easier, a joystick that makes moving the single-point autofocus mode a snap and control assignment and body ergonomics that makes moving between the two modes a snap. For the GRP mode I use back button autofocus (AF-ON) while pressing the joystick performs the same function plus switching to single point autofocus. While in normal GRP, single point is just a ½” move of my thumb away. When I mount a T/C I will also use the mono-gimble.

As I learn to use these control settings, I find that the joystick must be carefully pressed straight down or the camera will revert to GRP and the focus point will move. If planning to use single-focus extensively it seems better to switch to single focus and use AF-ON. I also find that I often unintentionally move the command dial. A 1/2000 often winds up 1/6000 in the heat of catching a cool bird in flight. To stop this I set F1 to lock shutter speed.

That 75-300 DX lens has not been retired. The spare D-500 is ready when the subject gets too close for a 500mm lens.
Tom,
When using the 500 PF with my D500, I program the button on the 500 PF to single point focus while using group focus mode on the Auto Focus -on.
It works great that way. Much better than using a button on the camera.
 
I picked up a 'walking around lens' on the premise that the best camera is the one that isn't left behind. A 5.7 ounce RF 50mm f1.8. Now I can fit the camera into a small fanny pack . Quite sharp for the money and less than 2 pounds including the fanny pack and spare battery.
 
Tom,
When using the 500 PF with my D500, I program the button on the 500 PF to single point focus while using group focus mode on the Auto Focus -on.
It works great that way. Much better than using a button on the camera.
I have that set up also but find it inconvenient when a bird I am tracking in GRP lands and I need to quickly switch. Of course new rig for me so preferred usage is changing with experience.
 
Nothing since my D6 last year but that has been a major addition. 500mm PF is still looming. However, I have added an inflatable kayak for getting out and low on the water and have just ordered a roof-top tent...a couple of accessories to help me get and stay "out there" and nearer to desired subject matter.
 
I have that set up also but find it inconvenient when a bird I am tracking in GRP lands and I need to quickly switch. Of course new rig for me so preferred usage is changing with experience.
When it lands all you have to do is press the button on the lens. It will switch from group to single point. The button is on the lens barrel next to your hand.
 
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I love shooting portraits, and this year I bought a Nikon Z6ii. Before that I bought the Z 70-200 f2.8 S lens and a month ago I bought a Z 20mm f1.8 for landscape and astrophotography. I don't think I'll be buying any gear for the next 3 years to come, but never say never of course.
Well, you have GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) as bad as me!
 
A set of Kase magnetic filters. 3 stop-6 stop-10 stop and a polarizer. I'm hoping that the fact that they just snap into place instead of having to be screwed on will encourage me to use them more often.
Hmm, didn't know there was such a thing. Great idea!
 
A week ago I spotted a Used D5 at store in S Africa to pair with my trusty D850. Traded in a 80-400 G and D780 on ~5000 count - both Mint - and these also covered a new Lexar 64gb CFExpress card and reader. Watching Used sites, I've see the supply of decent D5's drop off over the past couple of months in the UK and US, after a pulse of supply, presumably an offloads of D5's (including D6 upgraders / switchers).

The D5 arrived yesterday. It's in remarkably good condition considering a 110k count. So, I will remain very grateful to the previous owner for looking after this D5 and selling it on.... The lowlight performance of the D5 has a slight edge on the Z6 that i've read and seen, let alone the legendary AF; so I finally have a pair of cameras with Custom controls up to my standards. THis means Custom controls and AF of at least the high standards of Nikon's Triumvariate of D5, D500, D850 (now also D6).

After trying a Zed and D780 for long enough, I reached the firm decision to avoid compromises that keep lose fleeting opportunities. Unless one has to have silent-shooting cameras and/or much less weight, the top tier Nikon DSLRs remain ideal instruments for wildlife - and finally affordable thanks be to upgraders.

And thanks to Steve for his D5 related posts and publications. I also bought Thom Hogan's ebook which drills into many technical details, notably optimal exposure. So I've set Matrix and Center-Weighted metering to +0.3 (but left Spot and HighLight modes @ 0). However, and no offense to both experts, I find Steve's book more comprehensive and hands on in the Autofocus department, particularly for wildlife photography. I have the settings tuned for first test hikes and will tweak. It's already obvious the HV and LV Group AF modes are useful in certain situations, - HV probably more so I think but only from very first trials. This is especially when these are set up to use with instant-toggle between Single-Point and Dynamic on Pv, Fn1. It is equally obvious the D5's Recall Shooting Function is immensely powerful setting assigned to Fn2 (so have next to a fingertip).
 
After wanting to dip my toe into the murky world of mirrorless, I decided yesterday to buy my self a Z50 with the 16-50 and 500-250 kit lenses, plus the FTZ adaptor, as a light and very portable setup. By all accounts this little camera is remarkably good and I want a decent small rig that doesn't attract attention when not specifically birding and yet I can still use my F mount lenses when needed.

I am going into hospital probably this week and this year will be spending many more weeks inside also, so it will become my 'hospital camera' and I intend to relieve some of the boredom by finding things to shoot from (and in) the confines of my room...if I'm really lucky I may get a pigeon or gull roosting outside the window!! :)
 
After wanting to dip my toe into the murky world of mirrorless, I decided yesterday to buy my self a Z50 with the 16-50 and 500-250 kit lenses, plus the FTZ adaptor, as a light and very portable setup. By all accounts this little camera is remarkably good and I want a decent small rig that doesn't attract attention when not specifically birding and yet I can still use my F mount lenses when needed.

I am going into hospital probably this week and this year will be spending many more weeks inside also, so it will become my 'hospital camera' and I intend to relieve some of the boredom by finding things to shoot from (and in) the confines of my room...if I'm really lucky I may get a pigeon or gull roosting outside the window!! :)
Sometimes I see a link in a signature and I take a gander. Your photostream is awesome! Sincerely everyone should have a look at your flickr link. Some inspiring work in there.

I hope your hospital stay goes by fast and treats you well. (y)
 
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