Z9 autofocus button assignment- opinions?

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You might also try using Wide (L or S) as your primary AF point and, when you see the camera has recognized the subject, have another button set to engage 3D. I've been trying that and it works well for me,

I am using shutter release AF with Wide (L) selected as my AF area. When I press AF-On, it switches to 3D and picks up using the AF point the camera was using (AF persistence setting is on). That way, my initial lock is pretty easy - but the area not too large - and once I'm on the subject and can see subject recognition at work, I just press AF-On and can track all over the frame. I think it's easier than trying to get the small 3D area on the bird and I don't have to trust Auto not to pick the wrong thing :)

Still testing and playing though. I'm FAR from convinced my current method is the "best" method, but it might be something to try.

Going out Saturday and going to give this a try....though I'm not sure if my fingers are going to be responsive since I've been using back button for so long... :D I may end up assigning a different button if I can and keep using AF-On as programmed.... :D
 
Thanks Tim, I have tried that and while it works when I'm really thinking about it, most times my reflexes take over and I'm thumbing that back button again to have nothing happen. Changing after all these years is a recipe to miss a good picture for me.
 
You might also try using Wide (L or S) as your primary AF point and, when you see the camera has recognized the subject, have another button set to engage 3D. I've been trying that and it works well for me,

I am using shutter release AF with Wide (L) selected as my AF area. When I press AF-On, it switches to 3D and picks up using the AF point the camera was using (AF persistence setting is on). That way, my initial lock is pretty easy - but the area not too large - and once I'm on the subject and can see subject recognition at work, I just press AF-On and can track all over the frame. I think it's easier than trying to get the small 3D area on the bird and I don't have to trust Auto not to pick the wrong thing :)

Still testing and playing though. I'm FAR from convinced my current method is the "best" method, but it might be something to try.
Interestingly, when i did my initial setup the Wednesday night I've started similar but arse about. I figure I'll use wide area like group, then back on the shutter for 3D. i've also assigned FN1 to single point if all else fails. Like you suggested it may change but it seemed like a logical starting point.
 
You might also try using Wide (L or S) as your primary AF point and, when you see the camera has recognized the subject, have another button set to engage 3D. I've been trying that and it works well for me,

I am using shutter release AF with Wide (L) selected as my AF area. When I press AF-On, it switches to 3D and picks up using the AF point the camera was using (AF persistence setting is on). That way, my initial lock is pretty easy - but the area not too large - and once I'm on the subject and can see subject recognition at work, I just press AF-On and can track all over the frame. I think it's easier than trying to get the small 3D area on the bird and I don't have to trust Auto not to pick the wrong thing :)

Still testing and playing though. I'm FAR from convinced my current method is the "best" method, but it might be something to try.
Having tried a few combinations, , i seem to have settled on the method Steve outlined as the best for my muscle memory.
I also have Fn1 and Fn3 assigned to AF on single point AF- Fn1 works in landscape mode and fn3 works the same in portrait mode.

When i keep thumbing the back button focus set to 3D tracking (animal) (either by habit or with intent) , it takes over from AF wide set on the shutter release and tracks the subject with ease. I sometimes have to think momentarily to go back to shutter release to reacquire lost focus if subject gets lost and re- appears in the frame. Muscle memory is building and this is working well for now.
 
Thanks Tim, I have tried that and while it works when I'm really thinking about it, most times my reflexes take over and I'm thumbing that back button again to have nothing happen. Changing after all these years is a recipe to miss a good picture for me.

Similar boat - which is why I'm thinking of assigning the shift in modes to a different button...so I can keep using back button.... :D
 
Going out Saturday and going to give this a try....though I'm not sure if my fingers are going to be responsive since I've been using back button for so long... :D I may end up assigning a different button if I can and keep using AF-On as programmed.... :D
One thing you can try is to have your AF-ON still do AF with the different Area Mode. In my transition from BBF to SBF a few years ago I did this at first. Then when you stab your AF-ON it will AF as you are used to. I sort of found it easy to adapt to using the shutter half press to activate my main AF mode but sometimes pushing in AF-ON and only having it switch focus modes and then having to half-press shutter after that seemed to confuse me. I've since learned new muscle memory for keeping AF totally off the back buttons.
 
With three days of Z9 experience so far, I've found that Wide-Area L (sometimes S) is the best mode to start off with as long as the subject isn't too erratic where you can't accurately get the Wide-Area onto it. I use Wide-Area L on my shutter button. My AF-ON button is Auto AF. I was starting with Wide-Area and then would switch over to Auto as it started tracking just to allow me to be a little more sloppy with my tracking and have the Auto keep tracking over the entire frame.

However, I came to the realization yesterday that Wide-Area L and S will track over the entire frame but only for the length of time governed by the "Blocked Shot" setting. So at a low setting it will try to refocus under the Wide-Area outline fairly quickly and stop tracking the bird outside the Wide-Area. But with a high setting of 5 it will usually be long enough to keep tracking the bird for an average length BIF sequence/burst. That simplifies things a bit as you can just use Wide-Area with a setting of 5 and have it track full frame if the burst isn't too long.

I haven't found 3D to be all that useful. Auto AF as a starting point works only if the background is clean and distant. Wide-Area is much safer to start off in.

Every day I went out I learned a few more nuances from this camera. I'm sure some of my methods may continue to evolve after some more days out....hopefully with some good light as my first 3 days were shooting ISO 2000-6400 most of the time for just borderline BIF shutter speeds.
Thank you for all the user info. Most of these post are talking about switching from one AF mode to other, but how about shooting? Can you switch modes while shooting or you have to let go of the shooting button for a second and then re-acquire the subject with the new AF mode? If this is the case the only advantage of starting with a different AF mode will be to have the camera kind of pre-focusing at that distance. Am I missing something?
 
FWIW (probably not much;)) this is how my Z9 is setup for now....we shall see if I change this after next weekend.....

I shoot in full M changing my SS, aperture and ISO as needed and watching the histogram and live EVF preview.
AF-C, Release Priority, Blocked Shot : 5, Erratic. Eye-AF set to Animal
AF modes limited to Single, Wide-Area (S, L), Auto, 3D
AF limited to AF-C
Shutter button AF usually set to Wide-Area L or Wide-Area S
AF-ON set to Auto AF via the "AF Area" option
Joystick: Recall Shooting Function for my perched birds set to change SS: 1/320, ISO: Auto-ISO, AF Area: Single pt (I may change this to Wide-Area AF (S)), Blocked shot response 3, Steady
REC: Switch DX/FX
Fn1: Change AF Area modes
Fn2: SHOOT
Fn3: Go to top item My Menu (set to Battery but may set this to Subject detection settings)
OK: centers AF point
L-Fn: AF Area Mode changes to 3D

A few thoughts:
* I've been having some difficulty pushing the joystick straight in to bring up my RSF, if I don't concentrate I move AF point. So I tried setting my main AF mode on shutter to Auto and having the AF-ON do the Wide-Area. Set like that there is no AF point to move. However, the issue I ran into with that setup is there is no way to move my Single AF point when pushing in the joystick to bring up my RSF. If I leave Wide-Area on shutter and move the point off center then the Single point brought up by RSF goes to that position. So I think I'm going to have to just concentrate more on pushing the joystick straight in.

* Vertical shooting I have it save a different AF-Area mode and position. I have it on Wide-Area L positioned up in the frame as the only time I shoot vertical I'm shooting something like a close up heron where the head will be on the top 1/3 of the frame.

* So far I'm not really a fan of 3D. I prefer Auto. But I will give 3D a bit more testing time to see how it behaves. I found it jumping off even a straightforward perched subject with distant, grossly OOF background. It still may be okay to run instead of Auto for a BIF after initiation with Wide-Area.
WOW ... I am an old codger and my manual dexterity has always been terrible .. I doubt if I could keep up with needed ISO changes in full manual since most of the birds I chase fly through a lot widely varying light.
 
If I'm reading this correctly, Steve is using the shutter button for his focus and Wide AF as the mode, then the AF/ON button to switch to 3D once he has acquired the subject with Wide AF. As a back-button focuser my muscle memory has gone into spasm contemplating this and I'll be anxious to hear the outcome.
It will be simple for me not having used BBAF for many years now. I used BBAF for a little over a year and it did take a couple of weeks of shooting to get myself retrained to half press shutter button focus. But now my thumb is more educated to do other functions again :)
 
All of these function button reassignments are starting to remind me of one of those programs to enhance your brain capacity when you get old like me. All I know is, whatever settings I've assigned, it seems pretty hard to take an out-of-focus picture.
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Thank you for all the user info. Most of these post are talking about switching from one AF mode to other, but how about shooting? Can you switch modes while shooting or you have to let go of the shooting button for a second and then re-acquire the subject with the new AF mode? If this is the case the only advantage of starting with a different AF mode will be to have the camera kind of pre-focusing at that distance. Am I missing something?
“AF persistence” when set to ON keeps the focus point from say AF area mode A and passes that focus point onto AF mode B when another button assigned to B is pressed. works great in most modes. Eg: if the subject is not in the frame, then the 3d tracking stops working. use wide area focus mode when u bring the subject back in frame to reacquire focus , then hand the focus point back to 3 D tracking with animal detection by the press of another button. hold that button down as long as you are tracking the subject +/- shooting pics..
 
Thank you for all the user info. Most of these post are talking about switching from one AF mode to other, but how about shooting? Can you switch modes while shooting or you have to let go of the shooting button for a second and then re-acquire the subject with the new AF mode? If this is the case the only advantage of starting with a different AF mode will be to have the camera kind of pre-focusing at that distance. Am I missing something?
Yes I am firing away in WideArea via shutter button and then just push AFON and it instantly switches to Auto without any delay and you don’t have to lift off the other button. a8: set to Auto should make this seamless as then it just hands o er the exact point.
 
“AF persistence” when set to ON keeps the focus point from say AF area mode A and passes that focus point onto AF mode B when another button assigned to B is pressed. works great in most modes. Eg: if the subject is not in the frame, then the 3d tracking stops working. use wide area focus mode when u bring the subject back in frame to reacquire focus , then hand the focus point back to 3 D tracking with animal detection by the press of another button. hold that button down as long as you are tracking the subject +/- shooting pics..
Thanks, I just tried again and if you start shooting let’s say in wide area large on the shooting button and then press autoarea AF on the AF-ON button while still shooting, the camera won’t switch to the new AF mode unless you let go of the shooting button, Am I doing something wrong? AF persistence is either OFF or Auto, right?
 
Yes I am firing away in WideArea via shutter button and then just push AFON and it instantly switches to Auto without any delay and you don’t have to lift off the other button. a8: set to Auto should make this seamless as then it just hands o er the exact point.
Thank you so much for the reply Geoff, that’s not what I’m experimenting, just like you said I started firing away in wide area and while still shooting I pressed the AF-ON button, that I have assigned to AutoArea and focus, the camera won’t switch to the Auto Area unless I let go off the shooting button. BTW…You mean a7 right? Focus point persistence
 
arbitrage, You've hit upon the problem I have of moving accidentally moving the focus point while using BBAF: "* I've been having some difficulty pushing the joystick straight in to bring up my RSF, if I don't concentrate I move AF point." It's especially easy to do while wearing gloves. I am trying to come up with a way to disable the joystick since I also have the multi-controller to move the focus point when I need to.
 
You might also try using Wide (L or S) as your primary AF point and, when you see the camera has recognized the subject, have another button set to engage 3D. I've been trying that and it works well for me,

I am using shutter release AF with Wide (L) selected as my AF area. When I press AF-On, it switches to 3D and picks up using the AF point the camera was using (AF persistence setting is on). That way, my initial lock is pretty easy - but the area not too large - and once I'm on the subject and can see subject recognition at work, I just press AF-On and can track all over the frame. I think it's easier than trying to get the small 3D area on the bird and I don't have to trust Auto not to pick the wrong thing :)

Still testing and playing though. I'm FAR from convinced my current method is the "best" method, but it might be something to try.
OMG, Steve, no pressure but please quick with your AF update for the Z9. :D Had my Z9 out yesterday and it may take electric shock collar training to extinguish my BBF habit. The whole day felt like I'd mistakenly grabbed my toaster for the shoot LOL
 
Thanks, I just tried again and if you start shooting let’s say in wide area large on the shooting button and then press autoarea AF on the AF-ON button while still shooting, the camera won’t switch to the new AF mode unless you let go of the shooting button, Am I doing something wrong? AF persistence is either OFF or Auto, right?
that is correct. this is my use case:
1 i half press shutter release- focus is correctly acquired on a distant subject by wide area.
2. then i let go off the shutter and engage AF on or back button ( set to 3d tracking) . the focus point stays on onject if the camera moves or the subject moves in the frame..
3. when you now press the shutter button like you always do, with back button held ( I am a BBF guy and this is natural to me) , it fires away on 3d tracking ( not wide area even though half shutter press is wide area)
4. subject goes out of the frame, then let go of BBF , recompose with subject in frame with half shutter press and then engage BBF for tracking as in step 2. this portion needed new muscle memory and i am happy to report that i am already there.

The bottom line as i see it:
I think if you favor BBF put 3D tracking on it because you will be holding down that button longer and this is natural to you. if you like shutter AF, then assign 3d tracking to shutter and choose say BB for wide area for focus acquisition. just have to program the cam to your personal pref.
 
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😊, no…..really, go to a quiet room and listen to it, sounds like a spinning hard drive. Mine is on all the time, outside probably you won’t listen to it, but since I m playing with settings inside is annoying.
 
😊, no…..really, go to a quiet room and listen to it, sounds like a spinning hard drive. Mine is on all the time, outside probably you won’t listen to it, but since I m playing with settings inside is annoying.
My smartypants comments aside, I've been holding the camera to my ear (indoors) since your comment and unless AF is engaged (when I hear the lens motors) I'm not hearing anything. Hope your cam is not 'broken'!!
 
that is correct. this is my use case:
1 i half press shutter release- focus is correctly acquired on a distant subject by wide area.
2. then i let go off the shutter and engage AF on or back button ( set to 3d tracking) . the focus point stays on onject if the camera moves or the subject moves in the frame..
3. when you now press the shutter button like you always do, with back button held ( I am a BBF guy and this is natural to me) , it fires away on 3d tracking ( not wide area even though half shutter press is wide area)
4. subject goes out of the frame, then let go of BBF , recompose with subject in frame with half shutter press and then engage BBF for tracking as in step 2. this portion needed new muscle memory and i am happy to report that i am already there.

The bottom line as i see it:
I think if you favor BBF put 3D tracking on it because you will be holding down that button longer and this is natural to you. if you like shutter AF, then assign 3d tracking to shutter and choose say BB for wide area for focus acquisition. just have to program the cam to your personal pref.
I have my Z9 currently set to use Wide Area Large (without needing any other button pressed to select it). I use the shutter release button to initiate AF. I have the AF-On button programed to select 3D only, so the AF On button does not also start AF.

Just tried this set up inside the house (it is 0 degrees F outside). I focused on an object using Wide Area Large and the shutter release button pressed halfway. Leaving the shutter button pressed halfway, I also pressed the AF On button. The camera switched to 3D without my needing to take my finger off the shutter release button. The focus area indicator in the EVF showed 3D and also there was a 3D box that followed my subject if I moved the camera around a bit. So think it was in 3D. Will have to try it outside later today.

Do you have your AF On button configured to switch the AF to 3D or to both switch the AF to 3D and initiate AF?
 
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