AF Cycle Modes question

[havecamerawilltravel]

I have watched Perry's Gamechanger AF Cycle Modes and BIF videos at least 6 times each and still don't get it. Why does he have AF auto on Fn1 and also in the menu under AF cycle on the record button? Why is it needed in both locations? I understand that AF auto and 3d and wide area support subject dection. I set up the AF cycle on the record button and am not quite sure what would be best for Fn1 and Fn2. I set up Fn3 for grid since I like it on all the time and that button is hard to access.

I think I need to ask this question another way. If you select certain AF modes to cycle through on the record button, why would you repeat them on Fn1 or Fn2?

 

[DRwyoming]

I have watched Perry's Gamechanger AF Cycle Modes and BIF videos at least 6 times each and still don't get it. Why does he have AF auto on Fn1 and also in the menu under AF cycle on the record button? Why is it needed in both locations? I understand that AF auto and 3d and wide area support subject dection. I set up the AF cycle on the record button and am not quite sure what would be best for Fn1 and Fn2. I set up Fn3 for grid since I like it on all the time and that button is hard to access.

I can’t speak for @Steve but I have AF area modes on both my cycle list and assigned as an override or handover button. Basically if I feel confident the scene, background, subjects and the like will work with one of the wider more automated modes like Auto or 3D, I’ll just select it with the cycle button and not worry about handing over to that wider mode. But for trickier situations like when the AF system wants to grab a cluttered background or foreground I’ll start with a smaller more localized AF area mode and once it’s tracking and ideally once subject and eye detect kick in I might switch to a wider more automated mode to track across the entire frame.

So for me at least it’s a matter of selecting a default mode that I think will get the job done and when I’m starting with a more localized AF area having the option to handover to a wider area.

 

[SoCalRick]

I think the general strategy being discussed is that you want a way to quickly select the best AF mode to start out with for a given situation. This is the reason for having the Cycle AF modes on the video record button, so you can quickly cycle to the one that you want to use, or change from the current choice to one that you think may work better.

The strategy that Steve talks about when addressing what you might want to assign to the Fn1 (or other) buttons, is that it "could" be used for "handing off" the subject tracking from your currently selected AF mode, to one that you have chosen to assign to the Fn1 button. This assumes the AF mode assigned to Fn1 may do a better job in general of tracking the subject once you have locked onto it, than the one that you started with in the first place. Obviously, if you started out in Auto Area AF, then it wouldn't make any sense to hand it off to Auto Area AF, if that is what you have assigned to your Fn1 button.

An example is that you may use your video record button to cycle to AF-Large, and try to focus on and track your subject, and then once you have subject "lock-on", hand it off to Auto Area AF mode (assigned to your Fn1 button) to keep tracking the subject and maybe concentrate a little more on your composition of where the subject is in the frame.

Does that make sense?

 

[Captain Spaulding]

I think one the points that @Steve makes frequently is that each person has a somewhat unique approach to photography and we should tailor our set-ups to fit our needs. Personally, I have "cycle modes" on the Fn2 button. An old injury left the end knuckle on the middle finger of my right hand immobile and I found that I would inadvertently hit Fn1 while gripping the body thereby switching AF modes. I turned Fn1 off and use my ring finger on Fn2 to switch modes. Also, I used the video record button to toggle between FX and DX modes. Why? It works for me. I guess my point is not to slavishly follow Steve's every move, but to take advantage of his depth of experience and knowledge of the camera and the art as a starting point and adapt them to your set-up to suit you.

Good luck,

 

[Steve]

Pretty much what they say. Cycle AF areas are when you are selecting your primary AF area and you think that area will work well with a given subject. 90% of the time, this is the way to go. It's quick but not instant since you have to scroll through all your AF areas to get to the one you want. However, once you get there, it's done - no need to keep pressing a button.

AF Overrides are for when you need a combination of AF areas, like with AF handoffs or if you're using an AF area with Subject Detection and want a quick way to get to single point if Subject Detection decides to go to the wrong area of the subject.

You may not need cycle AF areas or AF overrides for the kind of photos you shoot - or you may just need on method or the other. There a a TON of overlap in the Nikon AF system (and most others, really) so there's no single right or wrong way to do it - just options. It then falls to the shooter to figure out what works best for them.

 

[Kumarsnaveen]

I have watched Perry's Gamechanger AF Cycle Modes and BIF videos at least 6 times each and still don't get it. Why does he have AF auto on Fn1 and also in the menu under AF cycle on the record button? Why is it needed in both locations? I understand that AF auto and 3d and wide area support subject dection. I set up the AF cycle on the record button and am not quite sure what would be best for Fn1 and Fn2. I set up Fn3 for grid since I like it on all the time and that button is hard to access.

I think I need to ask this question another way. If you select certain AF modes to cycle through on the record button, why would you repeat them on Fn1 or Fn2?

Most of the below is derived from Steve’s guide and videos.

Auto Area-AF works well for most scenarios with latest firmware of Z8/Z9. So you want camera to be set to that area most often. If camera detects subject with Auto Area-AF just press AF-On to lock focus and release shutter.

Few scenarios
1. Default area mode when you switch on the camera. Set in area mode setting of photography menu. We keep switching off camera between shots lot more with mirrorless to save battery. So you want camera to be set to Auto Area-AF mode that you use most often.

2. Area mode you cycle to for a shot and revert to default area mode. For e.g., If stationary bird or subject in clutter you cycle to say wide-S and take a shot. After taking shot you want to cycle to AutoArea-AF to keep camera ready for next shot. If auto area-AF is not in cycle list, you’ve to switch on/ off camera or use some other ways to set it.

3. For action and birds in flight shots. Once you acquire subject focus by cycling to area and want to hand off that exact focus point to track it in entire area of viewfinder, then you use Fn1 set to afon+Auto Area AF and release shutter. Once shot is over, cycle to Auto Area-AF and leave camera ready for next shot.

Idea is to keep camera set to default settings after each shot for consistency, so it’s lot easier to enjoy the scene and photography, to take shot effortlessly rather than fiddle around buttons. You may take a different approach and configure camera to suit your photography style.

Hope above helps.