AF Speed: Do You Have It All Wrong?

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Steve

Steve

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It's time to clear out the myths and mysteries regarding AF speed. If you want a higher keeper rate with any lens, you'll love this one!

In this video, we'll answer these questions:

How fast does a subject have to move in order to outrun the AF speed of your lens? (The answer will surprise you)
When are the two times slower AF speed can really hurt you?
What are five ways to get better results with any lens, even the slower focusing ones?

In this video, we'll look at the REAL reasons AF speed is often a problem (and no, it's probably not what you think) as well as five ways to get a higher keeper rate no matter how slow - or fast - the AF speed of your lens.

This is an eye-opener for anyone who shoots action!

 
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Good video Steve. Lots of great tips. I really should make use of my limiter switch but every time I've tried I always find myself forgetting and something comes to close and it won't focus.
My main technique for getting over AF struggles is DMF....I do a lot of DMF when I shoot small, fast, erratic BIF like swallows.

I'm going to tape a pigeon to my hat next time I go out :ROFLMAO:
 
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arbitrage said:
Good video Steve. Lots of great tips. I really should make use of my limiter switch but every time I've tried I always find myself forgetting and something comes to close and it won't focus.
My main technique for getting over AF struggles is DMF....I do a lot of DMF when I shoot small, fast, erratic BIF like swallows.

I'm going to tape a pigeon to my hat next time I go out :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
The taped pigeon technique is my new go-to :)

LOL, I too use DMF all the time. In fact, pretty much with any mirrorless camera my thumb is on the focus ring and making adjustments to keep the focus at or slightly in front of the target. My only complaint with Sony is that on lenses like the 200-600 it doesn't have an always on DMF option, at least not with my a1 (I think there is a Sony or two out there that have it as an option if I'm not mistaken).
 
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I've found the mf override on nikon to be helpful as well, especially with nikon allowing 1:1 on the ring (useful for macro), or the more you spin the ring the faster the focus changes (helpful for wildlife). This can help get the camera close quick, but it takes practice to not overdo it.

Stability in the viewfinder also helps, less jitter for the camera (mentioned in the video) and it's more able to track well.

Unfortunately, I haven't found a good solution for situations where I do have to shoot close at times, especially into heavy brush, and then farther away. I could focus on one area, but for me I like trying to get everything I can. Probably less optimal for good images, but more fun trying to spot all the birds I can.

I might put the pigeon on a nearby post though, not on my head...
 
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Cameron T said:
Unfortunately, I haven't found a good solution for situations where I do have to shoot close at times, especially into heavy brush, and then farther away. I could focus on one area, but for me I like trying to get everything I can. Probably less optimal for good images, but more fun trying to spot all the birds I can.
Click to expand...

Sometimes you gotta leave the limiter off and do what you can. If you know you'll have closer targets and farther ones, I'd tend to keep my camera pre-focused for the close ones. They're tougher to lock onto if the lens is way out since it usually wants to go farther out first, not closer. I've been in that situation and it's tough for sure, but that seems to work.

Recall focus can help here as well if you have it. In this case, maybe set the camera to whatever range you feel is more likely (near or far) and set the recall focus distance for the opposite. So, if you have the focus distance setoff farther away subjects and notice something close, press the recall distance button to pull the focus back as you're bringing the lens to your eye. By the time it gets there, you'll be at a good starting distance for your close target. Once you're done, set the lens for a farther target again - rinse and repeat :)
 
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Steve said:
Sometimes you gotta leave the limiter off and do what you can. If you know you'll have closer targets and farther ones, I'd tend to keep my camera pre-focused for the close ones. They're tougher to lock onto if the lens is way out since it usually wants to go farther out first, not closer. I've been in that situation and it's tough for sure, but that seems to work.

Recall focus can help here as well if you have it. In this case, maybe set the camera to whatever range you feel is more likely (near or far) and set the recall focus distance for the opposite. So, if you have the focus distance setoff farther away subjects and notice something close, press the recall distance button to pull the focus back as you're bringing the lens to your eye. By the time it gets there, you'll be at a good starting distance for your close target. Once you're done, set the lens for a farther target again - rinse and repeat :)
Click to expand...
My biggest issue is the recall distance would shift during the day pretty drastically, and I'd forget to reset it constantly. My instinct was to keep the focus close (vs too far), but with wide area modes and CSP it was still doable if I had it farther out.

Like everything else, it seems like it's going to vary, and a lot of wildlife is being prepared for anything and paying attention.
 
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Steve said:
It's time to clear out the myths and mysteries regarding AF speed. If you want a higher keeper rate with any lens, you'll love this one!

In this video, we'll answer these questions:

How fast does a subject have to move in order to outrun the AF speed of your lens? (The answer will surprise you)
When are the two times slower AF speed can really hurt you?
What are five ways to get better results with any lens, even the slower focusing ones?

In this video, we'll look at the REAL reasons AF speed is often a problem (and no, it's probably not what you think) as well as five ways to get a higher keeper rate no matter how slow - or fast - the AF speed of your lens.

This is an eye-opener for anyone who shoots action!

Click to expand...
Excellent video Steve. Great timing for me. I was wondering if I should use the focus limiter. I deal with focus hunting a lot with the tc attached to my 509 PF when shooting BIF and when there is low light. I’ll give it a try.
 
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Steve said:
The taped pigeon technique is my new go-to :)

LOL, I too use DMF all the time. In fact, pretty much with any mirrorless camera my thumb is on the focus ring and making adjustments to keep the focus at or slightly in front of the target. My only complaint with Sony is that on lenses like the 200-600 it doesn't have an always on DMF option, at least not with my a1 (I think there is a Sony or two out there that have it as an option if I'm not mistaken).
Click to expand...
Yes, A7RV and newer cameras have the DMF option in the menu so you can use it with 100-400, 200-600 etc. I'm hoping Sony will at least give us that feature in the spring A1 FW update but I won't hold my breath.
I don't have the 2-6 anymore but with my 100-400 I've resorted to putting the MF override hold (active while holding the button) onto the lens function button. Works for some subjects but too awkward during fast BIF shooting for quick adjustments.
 
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arbitrage said:
Yes, A7RV and newer cameras have the DMF option in the menu so you can use it with 100-400, 200-600 etc. I'm hoping Sony will at least give us that feature in the spring A1 FW update but I won't hold my breath.
I don't have the 2-6 anymore but with my 100-400 I've resorted to putting the MF override hold (active while holding the button) onto the lens function button. Works for some subjects but too awkward during fast BIF shooting for quick adjustments.
Click to expand...
Mine is on the Joystick on my a1 :) I figure since my thumb isn't activating AF, it might as well be doing something!
 
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An excellent educational video. Thank you

as the saying goes around here, this graphic "makes me want to laugh...."

Brilliant! But I would be nervous trying to bait a hunting Crowned Eagle with a hyrax on my hat!!

1699992222878.png
 
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It would be interesting to compare - within reason - the behaviour of AF system(s) empowered by a full house of cross-type sensors. Namely the D6, which continues to hold its advantages of almost instant AF lock on and it is far less likely to grab the background (unlike the majority of MILC AF systems)
 
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Steve said:
The taped pigeon technique is my new go-to :)

LOL, I too use DMF all the time. In fact, pretty much with any mirrorless camera my thumb is on the focus ring and making adjustments to keep the focus at or slightly in front of the target. My only complaint with Sony is that on lenses like the 200-600 it doesn't have an always on DMF option, at least not with my a1 (I think there is a Sony or two out there that have it as an option if I'm not mistaken).
Click to expand...
DMF for 200-600 and close focus real is two main things I'd love to have with the A1 , great video btw
 
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Very good, informative and well presented video again ! And next time in the field I will try to think of using the focus limiter, see how that works for me. Thanks for the tip Steve !!
 
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