Autofocus area modes

[Gail L]

Hey all you awesome bird shooters - I've been doing bird photography for a little while but not long. I just seem to get very few keepers. Here is my setup. Nikon D500 and depending on the situation I'm either using my Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 or the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 G2. Once in a while I get super lucky but I don't think I'm getting as many keepers as I should be. I use back button focus but I'm only using a single focus point. I'm wondering how many of you, if you're shooting Nikon, use either 3D tracking, the Group Area AF or the Automatic area AF for birds in flight. I'm awesome with the ubiquitous BOS, but in flight not so much.
I know Steve has the new auto focus system book but I'm a little trepidatious because for me trying to read tech stuff is just arduous. I have a really good manual for my D500 with all of the information on those autofocus area modes explained very well but even after reading through the descriptions several times I still don't understand what the advantages of each are. So what autofocus area mode do you all use for, let's say, eagles since it's eagle season here where I live now and I'll be going out shooting soon. Or maybe I should just try them all? Lol

 

[Dan291]

I’d recommend Steve’s book, for sure. He explains things very well. It has a trove of practical information, laid out to be easily consumed. It’s definitely not a dry textbook.

 

[Andrew Lamberson]

I would highly recommend Steve's book. He is VERY good at explaining things in a way that everyone can understand.

 

[MikeR]

I hate to negatively impact Steve's book sales but......

Check out Steve's BIF video first.

Bird In Flight Photography Crash Course - Backcountry Gallery

Want to discover the secrets to amazing bird in flight (BIF) photography? Check out this 18-minute video with my TOP TEN techniques for photographing birds in flight! It’s time to supercharge your BIF game! In this video, we’ll cover everything you need to know to get started – or to get better...

backcountrygallery.com

 

[DRwyoming]

I know Steve has the new auto focus system book but I'm a little trepidatious because for me trying to read tech stuff is just arduous. I have a really good manual for my D500 with all of the information on those autofocus area modes explained very well but even after reading through the descriptions several times I still don't understand what the advantages of each are. So what autofocus area mode do you all use for, let's say, eagles since it's eagle season here where I live now and I'll be going out shooting soon. Or maybe I should just try them all? Lol

As others have said, Steve's ebooks are quite good and teach by example so they're pretty easy to follow.

That said, I use Group AF quite a bit for birds in flight with my D500, D850 and D5. It's a very good choice for fast moving subjects where it might be hard to keep a single AF point right on your target. The only downside of Group AF is that it tends to track on whatever is closest to the camera so sometimes with large birds flying more or less parallel to your position it can start tracking on a wingtip that's much closer than the bird's eye. Stopping down a bit for some DoF margin can help in those situations or if I really want to shoot wide open I'll switch to the smallest Dynamic group that I still think I can more or less keep over the bird's eye.

 

[fcotterill]

Hello OP, We've covered these kinds of questions/settings a few times wrt AF for wildlife using Nikon DSLRs. There should be more threads additional to links below ... Most shooters only use 3d tracking on sports subjects - this mode too often loses the plot with birds, clutter etc.
I think I summarized my settings in one of these 2 threads. Single-point most the time but moving birds are not often cooperative: so usually Group Mode on BIF, and also Auto-AF. Another advantage of Group-AF is its pronounced closest-subject priority - so less likely to grab at clutter behind the subject eg reeds behind a flying bird. Note Auto doesn't work on a lens slower than f5.6. It should work on both your zooms.

Free advice: least painful route - Read Steve's AF book in full

Single Point to 9 point Dynamic

If possible to assign Pv or Fn buttons to switch from Single Point to 9 point Dynamic , I think I read this somewhere but cant find it now, maybe I'm dreaming

bcgforums.com

3-D Tracking with birds and birds in flight (BIF)

For Nikon users: Have you found the "3D Tracking" function helpful when photographing birds, and birds in flight (BIF)?

bcgforums.com

 

[Squawk]

For what it's worth, I shoot single point on a D500 with a 400 F2.8 and 1.4TC. I’ll agree first that Steve’s book is a great starting place to improve the hit rate, but also I’d add that just snapping everything that flies when you can will also help. At home I keep in practice with my local kites, and when I’m out I’ll go for anything that flies with no intention of keeping the photo. After a while things just start to work. I can assure you I’ve more soft and awful shots than I’d care to admit – 5 gigazillion per keeper by the last count – but it gets better with practice. And get those little assist points around the main one to help as well.

 

[Gail L]

I hate to negatively impact Steve's book sales but......

Check out Steve's BIF video first.

Bird In Flight Photography Crash Course - Backcountry Gallery

Want to discover the secrets to amazing bird in flight (BIF) photography? Check out this 18-minute video with my TOP TEN techniques for photographing birds in flight! It’s time to supercharge your BIF game! In this video, we’ll cover everything you need to know to get started – or to get better...

backcountrygallery.com

Yes I watched that some time ago. Thank you very much.

 

[Gail L]

As others have said, Steve's ebooks are quite good and teach by example so they're pretty easy to follow.

That said, I use Group AF quite a bit for birds in flight with my D500, D850 and D5. It's a very good choice for fast moving subjects where it might be hard to keep a single AF point right on your target. The only downside of Group AF is that it tends to track on whatever is closest to the camera so sometimes with large birds flying more or less parallel to your position it can start tracking on a wingtip that's much closer than the bird's eye. Stopping down a bit for some DoF margin can help in those situations or if I really want to shoot wide open I'll switch to the smallest Dynamic group that I still think I can more or less keep over the bird's eye.

Thanks!

 

[Gail L]

For what it's worth, I shoot single point on a D500 with a 400 F2.8 and 1.4TC. I’ll agree first that Steve’s book is a great starting place to improve the hit rate, but also I’d add that just snapping everything that flies when you can will also help. At home I keep in practice with my local kites, and when I’m out I’ll go for anything that flies with no intention of keeping the photo. After a while things just start to work. I can assure you I’ve more soft and awful shots than I’d care to admit – 5 gigazillion per keeper by the last count – but it gets better with practice. And get those little assist points around the main one to help as well.

Thanks, I have been practicing on small birds and gulls for about a year, but I think I need to try something new.

 

[Gail L]

Hello OP, We've covered these kinds of questions/settings a few times wrt AF for wildlife using Nikon DSLRs. There should be more threads additional to links below ... Most shooters only use 3d tracking on sports subjects - this mode too often loses the plot with birds, clutter etc.
I think I summarized my settings in one of these 2 threads. Single-point most the time but moving birds are not often cooperative: so usually Group Mode on BIF, and also Auto-AF. Another advantage of Group-AF is its pronounced closest-subject priority - so less likely to grab at clutter behind the subject eg reeds behind a flying bird. Note Auto doesn't work on a lens slower than f5.6. It should work on both your zooms.

Free advice: least painful route - Read Steve's AF book in full

Single Point to 9 point Dynamic

If possible to assign Pv or Fn buttons to switch from Single Point to 9 point Dynamic , I think I read this somewhere but cant find it now, maybe I'm dreaming

bcgforums.com

3-D Tracking with birds and birds in flight (BIF)

For Nikon users: Have you found the "3D Tracking" function helpful when photographing birds, and birds in flight (BIF)?

bcgforums.com

Okay great Thank you. Excuse me please for bringing up something that you guys have already covered. I really wasn't looking for technical explanations in this thread, I just wanted a consensus of what most people use so that I could start with that. Reading technical stuff makes my brain go dead. I'm just not wired that way.

 

[Larry Shuman]

Okay great Thank you. Excuse me please for bringing up something that you guys have already covered. I really wasn't looking for technical explanations in this thread, I just wanted a consensus of what most people use so that I could start with that. Reading technical stuff makes my brain go dead. I'm just not wired that way.

I've shooting birds since 1996. Lile the female cardinal my shutter speed was 1/2500 , lens used is 600mmF:4G VR, exposure mode was S (shutter speed) and auto ISO is turned on. The second photo I'm using a AFS 300mmF:4. Each situation is different. Using higher shutter speeds and auto ISO will help. I have a PDF on shooting birds with Nikon gear. Send me an email and I'll send it to you.

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[Fishboy1952]

Good day. I have my D500 setup with BBAF, with the Group AF setup as the default AF mode. I also have Single point setup on the Pv button. So with the bird perched I’m using BBAF and Pv to get the single point on the eye if I can. When the bird takes off I release the Pv button and still depressing the AF-ON button, I’m in Group AF. The other learning I’ve had is I generally did not have a fast enough shutter. Those 2 items have resulted in a higher keeper rate.

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[Gail L]

Good day. I have my D500 setup with BBAF, with the Group AF setup as the default AF mode. I also have Single point setup on the Pv button. So with the bird perched I’m using BBAF and Pv to get the single point on the eye if I can. When the bird takes off I release the Pv button and still depressing the AF-ON button, I’m in Group AF. The other learning I’ve had is I generally did not have a fast enough shutter. Those 2 items have resulted in a higher keeper rate.View attachment 14386View attachment 14387

Okay thank you! I'm going out to try the Group AF setting today just by itself, and then I will look into the Pv technique you mentioned. Thank you so much. I do use quite a fast shutter speed - well I think so anyway - 1/2500 mostly. But maybe that's not fast enough. Anyway the eagles have arrived in my area and I should get in some good fishing action practice today!

 

[BorderBirder]

Hi Gail, as others have said Steve’s book on the topic is excellent (not “quite good‘ as one poster said ). It would be a mistake not to buy it and study it IMO.

You can set the BBAF button to group and the centre press of the joystick to the fewest points in Dynamic Area mode that you can keep on the subject. Then as others have said if nearest object is going to be helpful select group and if not, dynamic. This is a delightfully easy switch on the D500 using the two focussing options you now have set up with those two buttons.
I also like the practising method of taking photos of any flying birds and it sounds like you do that already.
I find it useful to practice altering the focus mode with the front command wheel and the designated focus button on the front of the camera (accessible with your left hand) to change the mode of the AfOn/BBAF button to for example single point if I am moving into woodland and away from “flight paths”.
Have fun and hope the eagles appear for you .

 

[Gail L]

Hi Gail, as others have said Steve’s book on the topic is excellent (not “quite good‘ as one poster said ). It would be a mistake not to buy it and study it IMO.

You can set the BBAF button to group and the centre press of the joystick to the fewest points in Dynamic Area mode that you can keep on the subject. Then as others have said if nearest object is going to be helpful select group and if not, dynamic. This is a delightfully easy switch on the D500 using the two focussing options you now have set up with those two buttons.
I also like the practising method of taking photos of any flying birds and it sounds like you do that already.
I find it useful to practice altering the focus mode with the front command wheel and the designated focus button on the front of the camera (accessible with your left hand) to change the mode of the AfOn/BBAF button to for example single point if I am moving into woodland and away from “flight paths”.
Have fun and hope the eagles appear for you .

Thanks!

 

[LL4D500]

Hey all you awesome bird shooters - I've been doing bird photography for a little while but not long. I just seem to get very few keepers. Here is my setup. Nikon D500 and depending on the situation I'm either using my Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 or the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 G2. Once in a while I get super lucky but I don't think I'm getting as many keepers as I should be. I use back button focus but I'm only using a single focus point. I'm wondering how many of you, if you're shooting Nikon, use either 3D tracking, the Group Area AF or the Automatic area AF for birds in flight. I'm awesome with the ubiquitous BOS, but in flight not so much.
I know Steve has the new auto focus system book but I'm a little trepidatious because for me trying to read tech stuff is just arduous. I have a really good manual for my D500 with all of the information on those autofocus area modes explained very well but even after reading through the descriptions several times I still don't understand what the advantages of each are. So what autofocus area mode do you all use for, let's say, eagles since it's eagle season here where I live now and I'll be going out shooting soon. Or maybe I should just try them all? Lol

Really encourage you to get Steve’s books. I have his wildlife book, his AF and his Exposure/Metering book. Very easy to read ( good sized font), sections one can skip based on what body you have. AND THE BEST PART is the great job Steve does with his pictures and explanations - makes it sooo easy to understand. If there is something I don’t understand, I will read once or twice, go out and take a few shots come home and read it again. It’s in my memory bank! Keep a copy on flash drive with a copy of Table of Contents w/margin notes when traveling. Have learned more in four months than I did in the prior 20+ years shooting Automatic! Only thing it cost me was a second D500, a 70-200 F2.8 (low light) and a 500PF! Had a 16-80 and a 80-400 previously. Have everything my heart desires, Couldn’t be happier!

I use BBAF with Single Focus Point (BB) and Group AF (F1). Think most reverse what I do. I have tried both ways and for BIF, basically use Group AF to track and BB/Single to “nail” them!

 

[Gail L]

Really encourage you to get Steve’s books. I have his wildlife book, his AF and his Exposure/Metering book. Very easy to read ( good sized font), sections one can skip based on what body you have. AND THE BEST PART is the great job Steve does with his pictures and explanations - makes it sooo easy to understand. If there is something I don’t understand, I will read once or twice, go out and take a few shots come home and read it again. It’s in my memory bank! Keep a copy on flash drive with a copy of Table of Contents w/margin notes when traveling. Have learned more in four months than I did in the prior 20+ years shooting Automatic! Only thing it cost me was a second D500, a 70-200 F2.8 (low light) and a 500PF! Had a 16-80 and a 80-400 previously. Have everything my heart desires, Couldn’t be happier!

I use BBAF with Single Focus Point (BB) and Group AF (F1). Think most reverse what I do. I have tried both ways and basically use Group AF to track and BB/Sinngle to “nail”
them!

Thank you. Yes I agree Steve has an awesome style. I have watched all of his videos - most of them more than once. I'm more of a doing learner than a reading learner.

 

[LL4D500]

Thank you. Yes I agree Steve has an awesome style. I have watched all of his videos - most of them more than once. I'm more of a doing learner than a reading learner.

Forgot to mention that as well. Steve’s video provide a quick “tune-up” or open up something one didn’t know or forgot. They are great!

 

[txstone]

You’ve tried quite a few things. I expect you’ve also found tracking BIF with the 200-500 is more challenging than the 70-200; doesn’t mean you can’t practice with the 70-200. Suggest you try both Group and Dynamic Area 9 point - you’ll find advocates for both. Also use a high shutter speed for BIF - then you’ll need to change back for static. High shutter is 1/1200 to 1/3200 or higher. But you know this from Steve’s video. Try different settings until you find a combination that works for you.

 

[Andrew Lamberson]

I track dragonflies with my 200-500 in single-point! I won't admit what my keeper rate is....but it has improved considerably with LOTS of practice! I shoot as fast as the camera will do in the lighting conditions and shoot bursts (that is actually one of the best tips I have read!). I try to get in front of my subjects and let them fly into my burst shots vs. trying to keep up with them centered and follow them.

Same thing with Eagles and Trumpeter Swans this fall with great results.

 

[thelordofthelight]

Group Area AF has worked the best for me for BIF. Also , please watch out for this setting `focus tracking with lock-on'. It has 2 sub options where in 1. you can select how sensitive the AF must be when there are obstructions while tracking a bird. 2. You can select subject movement between steady vs erratic. On the sensitivity, a setting of 3 or 4 has worked best for me alongside subject movement set to 'erratic'. But this setting must be reviewed depending on the shooting conditions.

 

[Gail L]

I track dragonflies with my 200-500 in single-point! I won't admit what my keeper rate is....but it has improved considerably with LOTS of practice! I shoot as fast as the camera will do in the lighting conditions and shoot bursts (that is actually one of the best tips I have read!). I try to get in front of my subjects and let them fly into my burst shots vs. trying to keep up with them centered and follow them.

Same thing with Eagles and Trumpeter Swans this fall with great results.

Yes I do that too I practice on butterflies and hummingbirds in the summer. I don't know If I'll have any better luck with the other focus modes but I thought I would see what other people preferred and give that a try to see if I could improve my keeper rate.

 

[Gail L]

Group Area AF has worked the best for me for BIF. Also , please watch out for this setting `focus tracking with lock-on'. It has 2 sub options where in 1. you can select how sensitive the AF must be when there are obstructions while tracking a bird. 2. You can select subject movement between steady vs erratic. On the sensitivity, a setting of 3 or 4 has worked best for me alongside subject movement set to 'erratic'. But this setting must be reviewed depending on the shooting conditions.

Thanks!

 

[Capturingtheunseen.com]

Group or single point. The dynamic modes are useless now.