Best Z8 settings when photographing black bears

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

I'm new to mirrorless cameras having just gotten my Nikon Z8 in February. I'm doing well with it thanks to Steve's book about the Z8/Z9. One of my favorite subjects to shoot is black bears. I was wondering if anyone could share their preferred Z8 autofocus settings for black bears and any other settings that would help me get the best photo. It's on my bucket list to get a great photo of a black bear to hang on my wall. Thanks!
 
There’s a lot of variables here. Are the bears going to be sedentary or active and moving about. There’s different disciplines and needs for bears stealing apples from your orchard and the ones chasing salmon up and down a creek out West. Will you be shooting from a location of safety such as a house? How close can you realistically expect to approach. Bears are quick and unpredictable. You cannot get careless or complacent.

If you expect to be 20-40 yards, a 70-200 f/2.8 will serve you well. Longer shots, longer glass. Keep in mind a bear’s nose is second to none and will quickly sense your presence. You should be able to get sharp images of a slow moving black bear @ 1/1000 sec. Subject detection with the little “fox” icon for animals may be helpful. Focus on the eye. If the eye is not in focus you will not be happy with the image. If the bear is stationary, run that shutter down to 1/400-640 sec. That drops your ISO and your images will be better. This is one I got behind our house in the mountains of Rappahannock County, Virginia several years ago. I made some mistakes with this one. That’s wildlife photography.
LCS_0016.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
I'm new to mirrorless cameras having just gotten my Nikon Z8 in February. I'm doing well with it thanks to Steve's book about the Z8/Z9. One of my favorite subjects to shoot is black bears. I was wondering if anyone could share their preferred Z8 autofocus settings for black bears and any other settings that would help me get the best photo. It's on my bucket list to get a great photo of a black bear to hang on my wall. Thanks!
I use animal subject detection and one of the Wide Area AF modes, usually one of the custom ones so I can resize the box to whatever size I want. Be careful not to use a box that’s too big because if for some reason it doesn’t detect the subject it will pick up whatever is closest to the camera within the box. With bear, there are usually grass, trees, twigs, or varies other things between you and the bear to avoid. The Z8 does a great job with tracking their eyes so you will be able to focus on the composition and watch the background more. As long as your are close enough to the bear, where you can get the bear to fill about 1/6 of the frame you should be good. I see a lot of people post close up portraits of bear but I prefer ones that show a little more of the environment to add interest to the photo, like Larry’s above or even a little more. For a wall hanger, I think having some environment is important.
 
Another thing you should be aware of….. Not all bears are photogenic. Some are gangly, 2-3 year old examples you might not want on your wall. Some have injuries from fighting or imperfections in their coat like mange. Bears are so different and varied in their appearance than eagles, ospreys or egrets for example. This is not to say you should avoid shooting these examples, they just won’t be the one you’re looking for… It’s practice regardless. We lived next to Shenandoah National Park for 30 years and dealt with black bears frequently…. Above all, be careful

here’s a 2-3 year old that gangly and has a thin coat…
LCS_0882.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


This boar has injuries from fighting…
LCS_0166_3.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


this older bear has mange… we watched him for years…
LCS_0925.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
Ouch! I see what you mean. I’ve lived in the DMV area for only 10 years... only saw a mother and two cubs on one visit to Shenandoah a few years ago. Although, back then I only had a 70-200 and wasn’t thinking wildlife. :)
 
Another thing you should be aware of….. Not all bears are photogenic. Some are gangly, 2-3 year old examples you might not want on your wall. Some have injuries from fighting or imperfections in their coat like mange. Bears are so different and varied in their appearance than eagles, ospreys or egrets for example. This is not to say you should avoid shooting these examples, they just won’t be the one you’re looking for… It’s practice regardless. We lived next to Shenandoah National Park for 30 years and dealt with black bears frequently…. Above all, be careful

here’s a 2-3 year old that gangly and has a thin coat…
View attachment 85119

This boar has injuries from fighting…
View attachment 85117

this older bear has mange… we watched him for years…
View attachment 85118

All three of those bears appears to have mange, not just molting of winter coats. In some areas of northcentral Pennsylvania a fairly high percentage of bears appear to have mange. Those with a really bad infestation don't survive, they spend time and energy scratching and lose so much hair that their body temperature can't be maintained.
 
All three of those bears appears to have mange, not just molting of winter coats. In some areas of northcentral Pennsylvania a fairly high percentage of bears appear to have mange. Those with a really bad infestation don't survive, they spend time and energy scratching and lose so much hair that their body temperature can't be maintained.
Very true Woody. The bottom one is an older boar that survived several years of mange. We watched him for over 5 years starting when he was likely a 2-3 year old. Virginia’s wildlife resources division reached out to citizens that had info or photos of bears with mange. When I informed them of this survivor they wanted to come to our place and try to culvert trap him. Apparently there is a genetic anomaly in a few bears that enables them to survive mange. That’s what I was told by the scientists and that’s why they wanted this particular bear. Most, as you mentioned, don’t survive the infection. We simply had too many bears to target one individual for capture. This is an early picture of him…. We called him “monkey face”.
LCS_0065.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


This boar is also pictured above. These are wounds from fighting. They seemed to favor my golden delicious apples.🍏 😡
LCS_0189_3.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
I live in No VA and go to Shenandoah fairly often but never saw a bear there. Going to the Smokies though, I usually do see them (in Cades Cove where a sighting rapidly becomes a bear jam). Most of my shots have been with either a 70-200 or 200-500. In good light its not too hard but when in the deep woods, be prepared to raise the ISO.
 
Best to use Manual and set the aperture and shutter speed yourself and not rely on the camera's metering. The camera meters for a neutral gray and so often will overexpose dark subjects and underexpose light subjects. The histogram is not particularly useful with such subjects and I go by the display (set to not increase the brightness). No need for an ultra fast shutter speed with bears unless they are hunting in a creek or similar situation with water spraying about.

Important to act with recognition and respect for the speed and lethal capabilities of bears. A bear that is 50 yards away can reach you in seconds.
 
Black bears have a fairly long face from eyes to nose. Animal or bird subject detection often goes to the eye. If you have an aperture of 2.8 or less, there is a good chance the nose tip will be soft. I turn subject detection off for bears, especially if getting a full face view. I have C1 set to a 1X1 area. If the bear is large enough in the frame, I place this on the snout between the nose and eyes. If you have a good lock, you can engage 3D tracking and the focus point stays on the snout pretty well. + exposure compensation may help keep the shadows open but be cautious about wet fur. Water can be highly reflective and give you blown out highlights. Try leaving VR on sport and shoot in burst of 3 or 4 images to get the sharpest photos. Pay attention to bear body language and know when to back off.
 
Stop down a bit…4 or 5.6 or even a bit more depending on distance to get the DoF you want. Adjust exposure as required…generally I’ve found that for dark animals the metering to expose as medium grey overexposes the bear but I’ve seen it go both ways depending on lighting and background.
 
Back
Top