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As Karen posted it would be best to see a sample of the problem with the EXIF data (Shutter Speed, Aperture and what the camera chose for ISO). But the typical problem is the tones in the scene, particularly the subject vs the background if the subject isn't filling the frame. IOW, camera metering and automated exposure modes (including Auto ISO) work on the assumption that the scene averages out to middle tone (i.e. 18% reflectivity or the tone of standard photo gray card). If you have something like a dark background, and a bird with some white feathers, especially if the bird doesn't take up most or all of the frame then the camera will overexpose trying to make that dark background middle tone and the white feathers will blow out.
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backcountrygallery.com
Dave nailed it. Use EC to compensate. Usually about -.5 to -1.0 with birds such osprey and bald eagles against a dark background.
It took awhile for me to grasp Steve’ explanation in one of his earlier books. If taking a picture of a polar bear, one must add light/exposure (+ Exp comp), because the camera is trying to make the polar bear “grey” and if one is taking a picture of a black bear, one must subtract light/exposure (- exposure comp), because the camera is tryin to make the black bear “grey”. Hope I got that right?As Karen posted it would be best to see a sample of the problem with the EXIF data (Shutter Speed, Aperture and what the camera chose for ISO). But the typical problem is the tones in the scene, particularly the subject vs the background if the subject isn't filling the frame. IOW, camera metering and automated exposure modes (including Auto ISO) work on the assumption that the scene averages out to middle tone (i.e. 18% reflectivity or the tone of standard photo gray card). If you have something like a dark background, and a bird with some white feathers, especially if the bird doesn't take up most or all of the frame then the camera will overexpose trying to make that dark background middle tone and the white feathers will blow out.
The answer in a case like that is some negative exposure compensation to protect the highlights and get that dark background dark again. There are other combos of subject tones, subject itself (e.g. all bright like a Trumpeter Swan vs mostly dark with a bit of bright like a Bald Eagle or Osprey) vs backgrounds that can cause exposure troubles and again if you're shooting in an automated exposure mode like Manual with Auto ISO then dialing in some exposure compensation is the best way to deal with those problems.
The other option if the light isn't changing fast is to shoot in full Manual exposure with manual ISO and pre-meter on something neutral toned and then shoot without worrying about blowing highlights until the light levels change (e.g. sun going in and out of clouds or near sunrise/sunset).
This blog post and video of @Steve's might help:
Exposure Compensation Made Easy! - Backcountry Gallery
Exposure compensation – I don’t think there’s another exposure control that causes more confusion. In fact, I think most people are in for a surprise or two when they watch this one! In this video, we’ll explore every aspect of exposure compensation and knock confusion to the curb. We’ll discuss...
More or less but remember it’s not just the main subject but the tone of the overall scene. This can really confuse folks with something like a white bird small in the frame with a dark background taking up much of the frame. It’s a white bird but if most of the scene is dark you’d want negative exposure comp to keep the scene dark but at the same time keep the white bird from blowing out.It took awhile for me to grasp Steve’ explanation in one of his earlier books. If taking a picture of a polar bear, one must add light/exposure (+ Exp comp), because the camera is trying to make the polar bear “grey” and if one is taking a picture of a black bear, one must subtract light/exposure (- exposure comp), because the camera is tryin to make the black bear “grey”. Hope I got that right?
In a situation in which light level is changing rapidly (BIF and subjects moving in and out of shaded areas), I’ve found Auto ISO is best option to ensure that I get a properly exposed shot without manually trying to find an acceptable ISO.
Have tried Auto ISO with the Z9 and found it very inconsistent. Using the control ring set for ISO i find my own adjustment with that much more accurate/consistent then the camera even in the setting you mention.
That's why i have real time blinkies in stills with my Z9. It's literally impossible to blow and highlights with the Z9
Thank you - sometimes I get too analytical!
No hack just a custom picture control
The spot meter follows the AF box. It has since 3.0 or 3.01.
This hasn’t been my experience at all. I find Auto ISO often works well. It’s one less thing I have to be concerned about when following the action.
Yes take 2 seconds to install. It installs into one of the open custom skirt available in the picture control list
