... maybe for BIF with special light situations?
does anybody uses Bracketing Burst ...
- Thread starter RAWky
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I tend to use it in static situations e.g. a lot of light flooding through a window into a room.
Not tried it for wildlife but you've given me an idea.
Not tried it for wildlife but you've given me an idea.
Cameron T
Well-known member
Nope. Too much trouble, and the metering in camera combined with the ability to pull data out of modern cameras is more than enough for me.
If I’m bracketing its generally on a tripod for waterfalls or landscapes to improve the registration of the images and I use the self timer.
FB101
Well-known member
I used to all the time when shooting film, especially slides, which had very limited dynamic range and clipped highlights brutally. Nowadays, very rarely. Between the recovery ability of newest sensors, and the fact that sony offers over-exposure zebras in the viewfinder, i find very little use for wildlife photography. As others have pointed out, I use it on a tripod for landscape with DR greater than the camera can handle, to enable exposure blending in post.
I use it for HDR work. I can get away with hand holding if the slowest shutter speed in the bracket is fast enough.
Yes the Nikon bracketing burst is useful for handheld.
I guess you might use bracketing for special situations such as extreme backlighting. But my experience is you can usually adjust exposure settings and be conscious of lighting and have no real need for bracketing. If you can take the time to bracket you can also take the time for a correct exposure. You may need to clarify the image you want to create and think in terms of the best way to get that image.
The big problem with bracketing for BIF is that you are missing the exposure on at least 2/3 of your images. That means shooting at 15 fps, only 5 images are correctly exposed. Since you are using the high frame rate for precise wing and head position, your odds of a successful image are dropping substantially. It's even worse if you were bracketing at +2/-2 stops since it becomes more difficult to correct the exposure in post to turn a poorly exposed image with perfect wing and head position into something useful.
The big problem with bracketing for BIF is that you are missing the exposure on at least 2/3 of your images. That means shooting at 15 fps, only 5 images are correctly exposed. Since you are using the high frame rate for precise wing and head position, your odds of a successful image are dropping substantially. It's even worse if you were bracketing at +2/-2 stops since it becomes more difficult to correct the exposure in post to turn a poorly exposed image with perfect wing and head position into something useful.
Thx.
The lighting of a scene does not change spontaneously, that's true. Setting the camera to the conditions in M mode is certainly not so difficult and does not require any variations in exposure when something unexpected happens. I do not create HDRs, but sometimes a series is not well exposures, so my idea was, if it is useful to go with a +-1/3 or 2/3 EV BKT-Burst and just use a third of the pics. But its true, I will loose 2/3 of the pics and setup the camera before pressing the release is the best I can do / will do in the future to protect highlights much better.
The lighting of a scene does not change spontaneously, that's true. Setting the camera to the conditions in M mode is certainly not so difficult and does not require any variations in exposure when something unexpected happens. I do not create HDRs, but sometimes a series is not well exposures, so my idea was, if it is useful to go with a +-1/3 or 2/3 EV BKT-Burst and just use a third of the pics. But its true, I will loose 2/3 of the pics and setup the camera before pressing the release is the best I can do / will do in the future to protect highlights much better.
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