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BCcanuck

BCcanuck

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I have a small pond on my property that provides lots of photo opportunities for small birds from a blind. Unfortunatly it is shaded most of the day by a mature pine tree. This together with a back lighting situation in the early morning makes me think that fill flash would be of benefit. My problem is, I don't know the first thing about how to set up the flash for this scenario. I have a Godox flash unit together with a MagMod wildlife kit and the necessary bracket to mount it above my 300PF or 500PF on a gimble head. Do I use Manual flash taking trial and error shots to find the optimum exposure or do I use TTL? I know I will need to enable high speed flash sync. Any pointers or advice is greatly appreciated.
 
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BCcanuck said:
Any pointers or advice is greatly appreciated.
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There are many approaches but for what you describe I'd keep it simple and use TTL flash set for around -0.7 to -1.3 stops of light added to the scene. That's flash exposure compensation, not main camera exposure comp which can be set on the flash itself or in the body for most Nikon cameras. That's if you really want a fill flash to just bring your shadow detail close. If you really want key flash to help the main subject pop then set main camera exposure comp to a negative value and flash exposure comp neutral or positive, personally I don't key flash many wildlife images though it's a very popular approach in advertising work.

You could certainly run the flash in manual mode and set the exposure with some test shots but most of the time TTL and flash exposure comp is easier and easy enough to tune up or down as needed after capturing your first images.
 
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I suggest using off camera flash with a remote triggered manual flash.

Sounds complex but its not. You'll need some kind of light stand for the flash head. A small cheap aluminum stand can be left outside in weather with little problem.
Mount the shoe flash on the light stand using any needed adapters. You'll need a remote flash trigger or a long PC flash sync cable. A radio trigger is probably easiest and convenient. Mount trigger on the camera flash shoe.

Position light stand with flash about 20-45 deg off axis of your camera lens and close to where the subjects will be posing for you :)

Set your camera to it's max flash sync shutter speed - it can be reduced if needed to change background exposure. Start with flash on about 1/2 power and take test shots dialing power up/down and changing f/stop and/or ISO as needed. Better triggers should let you change flash power remotely without going back/forth between the blind and light stand to change the power.

Once the initial light position is determined and flash power dialed-in only minor changes should be needed in future.

Results should be more pleasing than on-camera flash even with a raised mounting bracket.
 
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How close is the subject, what ISO do you use and what f stop? Answers to those change my answer. In general, I'd go full manual on the flash and full output as I don't think you'll have too much flash until you get above 1600 ISO.
 
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Distance to subject can vary - but I generally put my light stand approx 5-10 ft away from where I think the bird will be positioned. The closer to the subject the more light the flash will provide for any given power. With fill flash the flash unit is providing supplemental light to the main/key light (sunshine usually). If you need to use flash as the main/key light then more power and more off-camera lights may be needed or maybe something like a Better Beamer flash extender on the flash bracket.

Start with lowest ISO for your camera and dial up if needed - start with reasonable f/stop for DOF desired.

Manual flashes are pretty cheap and open the door to using more than one if needed or desired.

Get a long PC sync cable and position the flash close to your pond and run some tests before sinking $ into remote triggers and light stands to see if it will do what you want.
 
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I have stands and wirless triggers which enable adjustment from the camera. I like the idea of positioning the flash unit close to the anticipated subject location, the bracket and MagMod unit seems bulky and unwieldy to me and fiddly to adjust. I can see me trying both these methods when/if Spring ever arrives. Many thanks guys.
 
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I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the "Better Beamer" flash extender. I used mine successfully straight on the flash. I also made a cover for it. You need to be careful even when walking or placing you gear on the rear seat of your vehicle. If you accidentally point it at the sun - LOOK OUT! You will burn the front of your flash. This you-tube video uses a bracket you have. You should find this video informative. It is incredible how far the flash can be "thrown". You still have to learn how to dial the flash up or down. Should be plenty of video instruction out there.

 
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DRwyoming said:
There are many approaches but for what you describe I'd keep it simple and use TTL flash set for around -0.7 to -1.3 stops of light added to the scene. That's flash exposure compensation, not main camera exposure comp which can be set on the flash itself or in the body for most Nikon cameras. That's if you really want a fill flash to just bring your shadow detail close. If you really want key flash to help the main subject pop then set main camera exposure comp to a negative value and flash exposure comp neutral or positive, personally I don't key flash many wildlife images though it's a very popular approach in advertising work.

You could certainly run the flash in manual mode and set the exposure with some test shots but most of the time TTL and flash exposure comp is easier and easy enough to tune up or down as needed after capturing your first images.
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What program mode do you use? Will manual with auto ISO work?

Gary
 
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Neil H. said:
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the "Better Beamer" flash extender. I used mine successfully straight on the flash. I also made a cover for it. You need to be careful even when walking or placing you gear on the rear seat of your vehicle. If you accidentally point it at the sun - LOOK OUT! You will burn the front of your flash. This you-tube video uses a bracket you have. You should find this video informative. It is incredible how far the flash can be "thrown". You still have to learn how to dial the flash up or down. Should be plenty of video instruction out there.

Click to expand...
I have the MagMod which is similar to the Better Beamer in operation.
 
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Gary Dietz said:
What program mode do you use? Will manual with auto ISO work?

Gary
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That's the beauty of using Nikon's iTTL flash system with flash exposure compensation. It doesn't really matter what camera mode you use as long as the right amount of flash exposure compensation is dialed in for the situation. Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Manual with Auto ISO, they're all valid choices and iTTL flash with flash exposure compensation will work with any of those modes. Remember the metering and overall camera settings (e.g. choice of ISO in Manual/Auto ISO mode) is determined by the ambient light and the flash TTL and any flash exposure comp is applied to the flash alone. IOW, the Auto ISO is determined by the main camera metering and any camera exposure comp dialed in but the flash exposure comp only adjusts the flash duration/power.

So overall exposure including background exposure is determined by the main camera settings, the flash exposure comp just impacts those parts of the image directly illuminated by the flash (e.g. the bird) and not things like the background if it's much farther from the flash. That's particularly true with fill flash that by definition is set to expose below the ambient exposure so parts of the scene much farther back than the subject aren't heavily influenced by the fill flash.

There's some caveats with wildlife flash photography. One is getting the flash far enough off camera to eliminate steel eye (red eye) as mentioned in a previous post, but others include watching out for foreground elements like leaves and twigs that can easily blow out if they're closer to the flash and reflect a lot more light than the primary subject. Harsh shadows can be a problem in some settings as well such as a branch near but in front of your subject casting a flash shadow on your subject or the subject or its perch casting a hard shadow behind the bird or other subject. Flash works best with relatively clean scenes without a lot of clutter to cause troubles.

And of course flash recycle time can be a big issue if you're relying on flash key or fill. Forget about high frame rates when using most speedlight style flashes though an external flash battery pack can help speed up flash recharging. If the flash is far from the subject and you're shooting with a longer lens a Better Beamer or similar flash extender as posted above can help speed up flash recharge cycles as well. Use of flash also limits shutter speeds even in high speed synch mode.
 
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i am trying to use my Canon 420 flash with a better beamer. with my 7d2 and 100-400 (zoomed out) set up. The zoom reading on the back of the flash unit remains at 14mm.
Is this correct ? as any pressing of the zoom switch doesn't seem to alter anything . I am in ETTL/ high sync mode using manual with auto iso.
Thanks for suggestions.
 
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Hi NA4M, thank you. I think I also remember that, but thought? the zoom altered with the lens used up to a maximum of around 105mm (on Canons top flash). I cannot see any way to alter from 14mm.
 
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For fill the flash does not have to be off camera but it should be diffused. This will also impact on the amount of flash exposure comp you have to use. A softbox/diffuser may reduce the flash strength by enough without dialing in any further compensation. A snoot or grid will concentrate the light to an area close around the subject.

When using flash the aperture controls the flash exposure and the shutter speed the ambient exposure so you can change the light/darkness of the background independently from the subject. Best/easiest to do this in full manual - camera and flash.

Beware of getting the subject exposure perfect on a black background. This is where the BG has been underexposed and is common using semi auto modes even with flash compensation. They look very artificial. Also if the BG is close to the subjec shadows on the BG could be an issue.

Off camera flash also has its advantages but unless the primary light/sun is to one side and it is acting as a fill its uses are more for light modelling - that is creating shadows on the subject. There is a lot more to this but I've cut to the chase. Red eye with on camera flash is really only an issue with creatures with eyes on the front of their faces and them they have to be looking at you.

ND filters can help not having to use HSS as well as using lower ISO. If you do use HSS the flash range will be severely shortened as the flash power will be reduced. Your Godox manual should have info.

David hobby has the be THE man for speedlights

Strobist

strobist.blogspot.com strobist.blogspot.com
 
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Robin said:
Hi NA4M, thank you. I think I also remember that, but thought? the zoom altered with the lens used up to a maximum of around 105mm (on Canons top flash). I cannot see any way to alter from 14mm.
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Try changing the Canon flash into manual mode. That might allow you to change the flash zoom.
 
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Your Godox flash should have a zoom control. When selected use the dial to change it or IIRC dial it all the way down to allow the auto zoom to function/lock onto the flash. That's with a zoom lens anyway. If you are using a lens longer than the flash is designed for you will probably have to set it manually - and that is a reason for off camera flash too. Godox radio triggers are great (get the Xpro) but the flash can be set to IR too so should work with your camera's inbuilt system.

I think it matters whether you turn on the camera or flash on first too.
 
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Graham,Phil think I have found the reason the zoom will not work.
Some time ago I dropped the flash and the wide panel came out and wasn’t replaced.
According to Canon if this screen panel is put into position in front of the flash the zoom will not work. Because it’s missing I think the flash thinks it’s in position.

Thank you for your help,Cheerz Robin.
 
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There’s so many ways of skinning this cat so I’d suggest trying as many as you can. I tend to use 2 units off camera quite close to the target, one further than the other from different angles, full manual mode trying to get as fast as I can (1/64+) and using that to control motion while using a slow shutter (say 1/60 but can be lower depending on the ambient light). I make the flash angle steep so very much side light – I really don’t like the result of more head on use.

Another thing you can try, and it’s my preferred choice, is to use a reflector and bounce the light into the area, Reflectors are inexpensive and can be silver or gold. The disadvantage is it needs adjusting every now and then as the planet moves. I use time rather than a hide mostly. I find things get used to you and within an hour they’ll ignore you if you’re calm.
 
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In addition to the excellent suggestions thus far, a Bird photographer I met made his own flash stands...1" or so conduit, sharpened at one end, with a hole drilled in the other end, and then the end bent 90 degrees. A 1/4 X 20 bolt (Photo standard) was used to fasten the flash to the conduit, then placed where he wanted it. Corded or remote, easily movable worked well, and was inexpen$ive, too (y)
 
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