Focus peaking and Depth of Field

[PaulBCT]

A very nice article in the Jan/Feb issue of Outdoor Photographer which I just received by email (arghhh!) describes using focus peaking to demonstrate what will be in focus (depth of field) for any given image, claiming that it will show what will be in focus for any combination of lens, distance, etc., etc. INCLUDING f-stop. This seems, if it works, like a great way to determine when you do/do not need to focus stack.
Anybody using this?

 

[PhilcTx]

Been using Focus Peaking on Fujifilm X-Tn series mirrorless bodies for some time. Very useful.

 

[DRwyoming]

A very nice article in the Jan/Feb issue of Outdoor Photographer which I just received by email (arghhh!) describes using focus peaking to demonstrate what will be in focus (depth of field) for any given image, claiming that it will show what will be in focus for any combination of lens, distance, etc., etc. INCLUDING f-stop. This seems, if it works, like a great way to determine when you do/do not need to focus stack.
Anybody using this?

Yeah, but I think of that as two separate but related questions.

- Using Live View you see the actual DoF which isn't the case for normal through the viewfinder DSLR shots which only stop down the aperture as the shutter is released. So right away using Live View gives you a much better sense of what is and what is not within the DoF and acceptably focused. Zooming into the Live View can further help you determine the extent of your DoF for relatively static scenes like landscapes and some macro work.

- Focus peaking gives you a nice visual indication of what portions of your photo are in the sharpest focus. But focus peaking can be set to very precise (only the most sharply focused edges are highly) to a looser view where the portions of your photo in focus or close to it are all lit up with the focus peaking color. Depending on how you set the focus peaking sensitivity it may not literally be the same as the eventual DoF of your photo but it is a very helpful tool to show you which elements are in the best focus or close to it.

They're both helpful for seeing the eventual DoF and precisely which image elements are in the sharpest focus and you can use just a Live View mode or you can enable focus peaking for more help in identifying the plane of best focus or close to it depending on the focus peaking sensitivity setting.

 

[PaulBCT]

Yeah, but I think of that as two separate but related questions.

- Using Live View you see the actual DoF which isn't the case for normal through the viewfinder DSLR shots which only stop down the aperture as the shutter is released. So right away using Live View gives you a much better sense of what is and what is not within the DoF and acceptably focused. Zooming into the Live View can further help you determine the extent of your DoF for relatively static scenes like landscapes and some macro work.

- Focus peaking gives you a nice visual indication of what portions of your photo are in the sharpest focus. But focus peaking can be set to very precise (only the most sharply focused edges are highly) to a looser view where the portions of your photo in focus or close to it are all lit up with the focus peaking color. Depending on how you set the focus peaking sensitivity it may not literally be the same as the eventual DoF of your photo but it is a very helpful tool to show you which elements are in the best focus or close to it.

They're both helpful for seeing the eventual DoF and precisely which image elements are in the sharpest focus and you can use just a Live View mode or you can enable focus peaking for more help in identifying the plane of best focus or close to it depending on the focus peaking sensitivity setting.

Great suggestion. Thanks. I’m so accustomed to looking through the viewfinder for 50+ years that I didn’t realize Live View was good for what you describe. Only problem is that I will need bifocals/progressives/reading glasses for this.
Back to f 16.

 

[Nick B.]

Yeah, but I think of that as two separate but related questions.

- Using Live View you see the actual DoF which isn't the case for normal through the viewfinder DSLR shots which only stop down the aperture as the shutter is released. So right away using Live View gives you a much better sense of what is and what is not within the DoF and acceptably focused. Zooming into the Live View can further help you determine the extent of your DoF for relatively static scenes like landscapes and some macro work.

Of course, most DSLRs have a DoF preview button that you can use to stop down the aperture to the selected value to let you access DoF through the viewfinder. Not sure how helpful people find it but it is an option that doesn't need LiveView.

 

[DRwyoming]

Of course, most DSLRs have a DoF preview button that you can use to stop down the aperture to the selected value to let you access DoF through the viewfinder. Not sure how helpful people find it but it is an option that doesn't need LiveView.

Good point, it was the go-to tool for many years in higher end film cameras and DSLRs. These days I have the Preview button assigned to dynamic switching of AF Area mode but for many years that's exactly what I did to assess DoF prior to releasing the shutter.

 

[PhilcTx]

Great suggestion. Thanks. I’m so accustomed to looking through the viewfinder for 50+ years that I didn’t realize Live View was good for what you describe. Only problem is that I will need bifocals/progressives/reading glasses for this.
Back to f 16.

A 2x LCD viewfinder loupe will work wonders on a Live View screen. Ask me how I know

 

[bjanes]

Of course, most DSLRs have a DoF preview button that you can use to stop down the aperture to the selected value to let you access DoF through the viewfinder. Not sure how helpful people find it but it is an option that doesn't need LiveView.

It is pretty difficult to judge DOF critically in the view finder with no magnification. With live view you can use magnification to get a better look. Or you can take the picture and then review it with magnification. With the Nikon D850 I find focus peaking, which works only with manual focus, very helpful for determining the near focus by focusing just in front of where you want the stack to start.

Bill