focus stacking

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Robert S

Well-known member
I have taken some test shots to check out focus stacking. The results are encouraging. I am using a Canon R7 with a Sigma 120-300 lens. Photographing birds that visit the granny flat I can get to within 2.5m of the bird. DoF calculator tells me I would get 1cm of DoF. If necessary I can add extension tubes. The test shots have been of models that don't move.
My question is how long does it take for the camera to stack say 10 images?
Also, has anyone else tried this?

Hope this is not a dumb question.
 
I have taken some test shots to check out focus stacking. The results are encouraging. I am using a Canon R7 with a Sigma 120-300 lens. Photographing birds that visit the granny flat I can get to within 2.5m of the bird. DoF calculator tells me I would get 1cm of DoF. If necessary I can add extension tubes. The test shots have been of models that don't move.
My question is how long does it take for the camera to stack say 10 images?
Also, has anyone else tried this?

Hope this is not a dumb question.

My R5 doesn't do the processing in camera. Does the R7? For the R5 you use DPP4 or Photoshop or a dedicated program like Helicon. In DPP4 it's a minute or two for 10 shots. You can follow up with an editing tool to refine which area from which shot is used.

If you mean how long to shoot, it's electronic shutter at a max of 20 fps, so lickity split for that.
 
Thanks for your post Bill. It seems the R7 does it all in camera. I'll try it out on birds today. Assuming they behave.
My guess is that I need the bird to stand still for about half a second.
 
I have taken some test shots to check out focus stacking. The results are encouraging. I am using a Canon R7 with a Sigma 120-300 lens. Photographing birds that visit the granny flat I can get to within 2.5m of the bird. DoF calculator tells me I would get 1cm of DoF. If necessary I can add extension tubes. The test shots have been of models that don't move.
My question is how long does it take for the camera to stack say 10 images?
Also, has anyone else tried this?

Hope this is not a dumb question.
Personally I wouldn't go the focus stacking route for subjects as jittery as birds, especially small songbirds. It's not just their overall position but to successfully focus stack you'll want them to stay completely still including their heads throughout the whole focus stacking sequence which can be tough with the little guys.

Another way to look at this is to stop down for a bit more DoF and then if necessary slow down the shutter speed to keep your ISO where you want it. Yes, it's often not great to slow down shutter speed with small birds for the same reasons mentioned above, they tend to twitch a lot. But instead of say ten or twenty seconds of no motion on the bird's part you might only need 1/125" or 1/250" to account for stopping your lens down a stop or two while still keeping your ISO low which is much more likely than having a small bird stay perfectly still for many seconds so that each frame in the focus stack sequence aligns properly.

Also these days with the current crop of noise reduction tools, a bit more ISO usually isn't a show stopper unless you're really shooting at the edge of night.

Bottom line, focus stacks for live twitchy subjects is tough, focus stacking while shooting handheld is tough (remember the individual frames have to be well aligned before blending the stack) and most of the time you can compensate for shooting close and limited DoF by just stopping down a bit. If that doesn't drive ISO sky high then you're fine and if it does you may have to trade off some shutter speed but it still is generally a better choice than keeping your camera still and the hoping the subject stays still for many seconds. Relatively static wildlife subjects can be focus stacked but small birds may be quite a challenge.
 
Personally I wouldn't go the focus stacking route for subjects as jittery as birds, especially small songbirds. It's not just their overall position but to successfully focus stack you'll want them to stay completely still including their heads throughout the whole focus stacking sequence which can be tough with the little guys.

Another way to look at this is to stop down for a bit more DoF and then if necessary slow down the shutter speed to keep your ISO where you want it. Yes, it's often not great to slow down shutter speed with small birds for the same reasons mentioned above, they tend to twitch a lot. But instead of say ten or twenty seconds of no motion on the bird's part you might only need 1/125" or 1/250" to account for stopping your lens down a stop or two while still keeping your ISO low which is much more likely than having a small bird stay perfectly still for many seconds so that each frame in the focus stack sequence aligns properly.

Also these days with the current crop of noise reduction tools, a bit more ISO usually isn't a show stopper unless you're really shooting at the edge of night.

Bottom line, focus stacks for live twitchy subjects is tough, focus stacking while shooting handheld is tough (remember the individual frames have to be well aligned before blending the stack) and most of the time you can compensate for shooting close and limited DoF by just stopping down a bit. If that doesn't drive ISO sky high then you're fine and if it does you may have to trade off some shutter speed but it still is generally a better choice than keeping your camera still and the hoping the subject stays still for many seconds. Relatively static wildlife subjects can be focus stacked but small birds may be quite a challenge.
Thanks for the reply Dave. I've done more tests this morning. I agree that using bracket focusing on small twitchy birds would be a bad move. However for Owls [ and Frogmouths ] it might be useful. Anyway here are the results I go this morning:

Distance camera to mobile phone 2.7m
camera body canon R7
lens Sigma 120-300
aperture f2.8
focus increment 10
5 frames
Exp smoothing off
Depth comp on
Crop depth comp. off

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The photos are first to fifth frames and lastly the composite. The time between first and fifth was 0.47 seconds. I had to reset each time to take a focus bracketed shot otherwise the camera became more confused than me and the view through the view finder was blank although the flip out screen still worked. Everything was done 'in camera' and when I downloaded the images went straight to 'Digital Photo Professional'. Lots of things that appear wrong. The fly screen in the 5th photo appears in focus but it is not in the composite.
 
I agree that using bracket focusing on small twitchy birds would be a bad move. However for Owls [ and Frogmouths ] it might be useful.
Yup, that makes sense. I've focused stacked multiple owls roosting on different branches before. They move so little it's not too hard, Frogmouths seem similar.
 
I've done focus stacking with the R5 quite successfully. Yes, after I create the images I use Zerene Stacker for the post processing to merge the photos, but it works famously and with little effort. I only have done this with a tripod on fairly static images. I'll choose typically from 50 to 100 images, set the camera to Electronic Shutter, and in a fraction of a second it screams through the images. I always watch my subject for movement, and if happens, retake the shot. Super fun. I find the larger CFExpress cards don't buffer so much and work efficiently, especially the Delkin Black. Steve has a video on focus stacking....aimed at the Nikon but the concepts are same for Canon.

I don't have a small enough image to post here, but this is a link to a recent stacked image: https://www.smugmug.com/app/organize/Reptiles-and-Amphibians/Amphibians/i-gzDQz5G
 
Thanks for the reply Dave. I've done more tests this morning. I agree that using bracket focusing on small twitchy birds would be a bad move. However for Owls [ and Frogmouths ] it might be useful. Anyway here are the results I go this morning:

Distance camera to mobile phone 2.7m
camera body canon R7
lens Sigma 120-300
aperture f2.8
focus increment 10
5 frames
Exp smoothing off
Depth comp on
Crop depth comp. off

View attachment 59526

View attachment 59527

View attachment 59528

View attachment 59529

View attachment 59530

View attachment 59531
The photos are first to fifth frames and lastly the composite. The time between first and fifth was 0.47 seconds. I had to reset each time to take a focus bracketed shot otherwise the camera became more confused than me and the view through the view finder was blank although the flip out screen still worked. Everything was done 'in camera' and when I downloaded the images went straight to 'Digital Photo Professional'. Lots of things that appear wrong. The fly screen in the 5th photo appears in focus but it is not in the composite.
Is the composited final image the camera produces a jpeg? I'm wondering if you tried running the raw files through the depth compositing module in DPP4. There you have control over which in areas of which photo to use, after the composite is made you can go back in and use a 'brush' to refine which the part of each image you want the software to use.

Also wondering why you didn't start with the nearest object, the tape measure, in focus.
 
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Thanks Bill. Everything is done in camera. The composite image is a jpeg but the individual images are CR3 [Canon RAW]. I didn't start with the nearest object because I wanted to see depth of field on the tape itself not the container of the tape.
 
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