Really interesting information about "How Your Cameras’ Focus Bracketing System Works"
How Your Cameras’ Focus Bracketing System Works
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Looks like a good article, but I think it is inaccurate that it can be done in Lightroom, unless this is a new feature. And another small inaccuracy, Canon calls it depth compositing, not focus bracketing. On the good side the experiment he proposes for finding the right step size seems very useful.
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fcotterill
Well-known member
Interesting to see Jim Kasson publishing in the blog of LensRentals. Quality attracts quality.
He's one of the most knowledgeable geek writers in photography. Retired engineer
"... . Nikon calls it Focus Shift Shooting. Fujifilm, Olympus, Hasselblad, Sony, and Canon call it Focus Bracketing. Phase One calls it the Focus Stack Tool...."
He's one of the most knowledgeable geek writers in photography. Retired engineer
"... . Nikon calls it Focus Shift Shooting. Fujifilm, Olympus, Hasselblad, Sony, and Canon call it Focus Bracketing. Phase One calls it the Focus Stack Tool...."
Interesting but.......
For in-camera focus bracketing (Focus Shift), the question is how much light you have. The amount of light determines the F/stop and DOF for each step. back in the day I took super macro shots with a D300 at F32 because I was using a flash. OM Systems Ambassadors are reporting they are getting good results from the new OM Systems 90 F3.5 @ F16 by using a speedlight, no focus bracketing necessary.
I am not sure, but I suspect that using a flash will slow down the camera taking the shots enough that I won't be able to hand-hold the camera successfully for focus bracketing. I think I need continuous light for focus bracketing, and I think I might be able to successfully hand-hold for about 1/4 sec.
For hand-held, non-laboratory work, what I think I need to know is:
1) What F/stop can I use in natural, bright and natural overcast light?
2) What F/stop can I use if I have a cheap video light that provides continuous light?
Those two facts will determine the F/stop I can use and still have a properly exposed image and the resultant DOF.
For in-camera focus bracketing (Focus Shift), the question is how much light you have. The amount of light determines the F/stop and DOF for each step. back in the day I took super macro shots with a D300 at F32 because I was using a flash. OM Systems Ambassadors are reporting they are getting good results from the new OM Systems 90 F3.5 @ F16 by using a speedlight, no focus bracketing necessary.
I am not sure, but I suspect that using a flash will slow down the camera taking the shots enough that I won't be able to hand-hold the camera successfully for focus bracketing. I think I need continuous light for focus bracketing, and I think I might be able to successfully hand-hold for about 1/4 sec.
For hand-held, non-laboratory work, what I think I need to know is:
1) What F/stop can I use in natural, bright and natural overcast light?
2) What F/stop can I use if I have a cheap video light that provides continuous light?
Those two facts will determine the F/stop I can use and still have a properly exposed image and the resultant DOF.
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@Tom Reynolds I am pretty sure (and the article states) that this technique is done on a tripod, NOT hand-held. Maybe you misunderstand the technique here of TAKING the series of photos in-camera to include PRODUCING the final stack in-camera? The output is done in computer software, not in-camera. Or maybe I misunderstand what you are saying, and if so please forgive me. In either case, if you are locked on a tripod then the amount of light shouldn't matter (just do a longer exposure).
As for focus stacking software, I use Elements Plus which is a twelve dollar plugin for Photoshop Elements (talk about a bargain). It does other things that I have not used; I only use the focus stacking feature. In fact I just used it for some snow shots from yesterday that I uploaded today on this thread: https://bcgforums.com/index.php?threads/snow-in-the-arizona-desert.21942/
As for focus stacking software, I use Elements Plus which is a twelve dollar plugin for Photoshop Elements (talk about a bargain). It does other things that I have not used; I only use the focus stacking feature. In fact I just used it for some snow shots from yesterday that I uploaded today on this thread: https://bcgforums.com/index.php?threads/snow-in-the-arizona-desert.21942/
Fotofool-
I think you are right. i misunderstood the article. The article is focused on tripod, computer stacking of many images. I may screw around with that, but my primary interest is walk-around macro, hand-held. My camera will focus stack in-the-camera up to 15 images so I can see the results right away.
Regards,
Tom
I think you are right. i misunderstood the article. The article is focused on tripod, computer stacking of many images. I may screw around with that, but my primary interest is walk-around macro, hand-held. My camera will focus stack in-the-camera up to 15 images so I can see the results right away.
Regards,
Tom
Bleirer,
I agree on a tripod. The problem, my problem anyhow, is that I have a limit on how many shots I can successfully take hand-held. I may try a monopod in the field but no way I am schlepping a tripod around.
_tom
I'll tell you an oddball lightweight solution I use. I get 3 dowels about 15 inches long. I cut driveway markers because I like the rubber tips. I strongly wrap one end with rubber bands. With my left hand I grip the top of the sticks spread out like a tripod solid on the ground. I rest my right hand on my left hand to take the photos.
Think of a painter's Mahlstick only 3 sided.
I have a lightweight Sirui monopod that I typically use with a Monogimble with a long lens. I ordered a ball head. I still question how many shots I can get to focus srack.
As many as you want if it is a calm day. At 1/100 of a second you have 100 a second after pressing the shutter.
Bill-
Good point. For in-camera focus stacking my camera uses 20f/s and is limited to 15 frames so that is less than a second. For focus-bracketing (stack with computer) I believe the new lens allows 50 f/s. However, the Speedlite will recycle at 10 f/s.
-Tom
DDWeldon
New member
Late to the discussion...
This evening, I've been putting together the final items to complete my in-field insect, macro focus bracketing configuration. I'm using my Canon R5 Mark II, RF100mm macro lens, 600EX-RT Speedlite + AK Diffuser, 1/125th (fastest available in bracket mode), f/9 (sweet spot for min dispersion with this lens), ISO 100, focus bracketing set for 10 shots. Strobe power is set to one notch under 1/4 power, I can get all 10 shots with no shutter stalling only by adding an external power pack (final piece to the puzzle: Aodelan via Amazon) that holds 12 AA Eneloop Pros. Without the external pack, stalling occurs at about shot 5 or 6. If I could live with 1/8th or 1/16th power, I could probably get no shutter stall even with using just the Speedlite's internal 4 AA Eneloops. The trade-offs of bumping ISO and/or Aperture all lead to sunlight increasing the chances of insect movement not being frozen by the flash
. Just for fun, here's a 6-shot focus bracket using just the internal Speedlite 4x AA batteries that I gambled at ISO 400 since this tiny juvenile jumper decided to hold the pose 
. Original image is 9000x6000 while this is 1200x800. I used Lightroom Classic, Topaz Photo AI, and Zerene to stack the 6 shots. If the weather is good, I'll try the external battery pack in the field tomorrow.
This evening, I've been putting together the final items to complete my in-field insect, macro focus bracketing configuration. I'm using my Canon R5 Mark II, RF100mm macro lens, 600EX-RT Speedlite + AK Diffuser, 1/125th (fastest available in bracket mode), f/9 (sweet spot for min dispersion with this lens), ISO 100, focus bracketing set for 10 shots. Strobe power is set to one notch under 1/4 power, I can get all 10 shots with no shutter stalling only by adding an external power pack (final piece to the puzzle: Aodelan via Amazon) that holds 12 AA Eneloop Pros. Without the external pack, stalling occurs at about shot 5 or 6. If I could live with 1/8th or 1/16th power, I could probably get no shutter stall even with using just the Speedlite's internal 4 AA Eneloops. The trade-offs of bumping ISO and/or Aperture all lead to sunlight increasing the chances of insect movement not being frozen by the flash
. Just for fun, here's a 6-shot focus bracket using just the internal Speedlite 4x AA batteries that I gambled at ISO 400 since this tiny juvenile jumper decided to hold the pose . Original image is 9000x6000 while this is 1200x800. I used Lightroom Classic, Topaz Photo AI, and Zerene to stack the 6 shots. If the weather is good, I'll try the external battery pack in the field tomorrow.
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DDWeldon
New member
Follow-up to my previous focus bracketing post above .
Today, the battery pack worked for up to 10 focus bracketed shots at about 1/4 power with the Canon 600EX-RT Speedlite. This image was only 5 shots processed with LRC/Zerene/Topaz. Might have even been the same tiny juvenile Bold Jumping Spider from the other day that I found in the little Manhattan Beach Botanical Garden in SoCal. I didn't seem to get the added depth but it does show a bit more detail with what is in focus up front. The Canon R5 Mark II added bracketing with the Speedlite which the previous R5 could NOT do. Gotta get more practice with the bracketed shot spacing.
.Today, the battery pack worked for up to 10 focus bracketed shots at about 1/4 power with the Canon 600EX-RT Speedlite. This image was only 5 shots processed with LRC/Zerene/Topaz. Might have even been the same tiny juvenile Bold Jumping Spider from the other day that I found in the little Manhattan Beach Botanical Garden in SoCal. I didn't seem to get the added depth but it does show a bit more detail with what is in focus up front. The Canon R5 Mark II added bracketing with the Speedlite which the previous R5 could NOT do. Gotta get more practice with the bracketed shot spacing.
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My Fl-900 Olympus flash will take the 15 shot maximum (in camera) sequence without delay but the flash on the camera makes the rig too heavy for me to hand hold. I can hand hold the OM-1 with the tiny flash that (sometimes) comes with the OM-1 and have the Fl-900 mounted appropriately but all this defeats my goal of walk around bracketed macro.
I have kinda stopped doing this. Work, not fun.
Tom
I have kinda stopped doing this. Work, not fun.
Tom
DDWeldon
New member
Here's what my rig looks like before the R5-II swap-out (minus the Speedlite external power pack). I no longer use the internal LED light and its power and switch that you see mounted on top. I found that I didn't need the modeling light with mirrorless capabilities . I use a hand strap mounted on the right side.
. I use a hand strap mounted on the right side.
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