Landscape photography techniques

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JoelKlein

JoelKlein

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Take for example this picture

IMG-9087.jpg


By using a longer lens to get more details on the trees the other side of the river, I won’t get the foreground trees which acts like a frame.

Generally speaking, Is it possible to focus stack and stich as a panorama?!
 
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JoelKlein said:
Take for example this picture

IMG-9087.jpg


By using a longer lens to get more details on the trees the other side of the river, I won’t get the foreground trees which acts like a frame.

Generally speaking, Is it possible to focus stack and stich as a panorama?!
Click to expand...
No need. At f11 on a 50mm lens, most of all this will be in focus. So shoot and stitch.
 
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Nimi said:
No need. At f11 on a 50mm lens, most of all this will be in focus. So shoot and stitch.
Click to expand...
I’m planing on trying this same shot again with a 70-200 to get more detail on the other side of the river. By going longer I would miss the front trees.

I know my self, I might bring the 600pf just to be SURE I get the details… lol… I’m aware that I have to work on my perfectionism…
 
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JoelKlein said:
I’m planing on trying this same shot again with a 70-200 to get more detail on the other side of the river. By going longer I would miss the front trees.

I know my self, I might bring the 600pf just to be SURE I get the details… lol… I’m aware that I have to work on my perfectionism…
Click to expand...
That would be a massive file which would crush most computers... With 600mm you'll need hundreds of shots, each at full-resolution to get the same field of view.
 
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Nimi said:
That would be a massive file which would crush most computers... With 600mm you'll need hundreds of shots, each at full-resolution to get the same field of view.
Click to expand...
My point is, I can get the same FOV with any lens, but a longer tele would never see the front elements in a 50mm FOV frame, it’s too close.
 
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JoelKlein said:
Take for example this picture

IMG-9087.jpg


By using a longer lens to get more details on the trees the other side of the river, I won’t get the foreground trees which acts like a frame.

Generally speaking, Is it possible to focus stack and stich as a panorama?!
Click to expand...

Yes, you can certainly focus stack and stitch. It’s a commonly used landscape technique. I’m not so sure all of that would be in focus at 50mm f/11.
 
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If you create a pano, be sure to shoot vertical. It will require more images, but you will get a taller pano. You could also shoot multiple rows, but that generates a LOT of complexity when shooting to keep everything in focus and overlapped - and in processing.
 
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With a 50mm lens the infinity point is about 50 yards, so anything further than that should be in focus. so if you focus about 1/3 of the way from the nearest element you want in focus to the infinity point it should do the job.

This video is a good source of info starting at 1 min 10 seconds in:

 
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I just realized you might be talking about stitching a 600mm shot of the trees on the other side of the river with a 50mm shot of the trees framing the scene. I do not think that will work for lots of reasons. If you're talking about using your 50mm lens to focus on the foreground trees for one shot and then shooting another frame wit the 50mm lens while focusing on the trees in the background, yes, that is a very common technique used by landscape photographers.
 
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Joel, use this link and read the articles of Erez Marom. There is a 10 part Composition series that starts here. The first link is all his posting at DP Review, but the series does a great job of explaining many relevant concepts. You will need coffee or beverage of choice to slowly go through the 10 articles and digest them.
 
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groob said:
I just realized you might be talking about stitching a 600mm shot of the trees on the other side of the river with a 50mm shot of the trees framing the scene. I do not think that will work for lots of reasons. If you're talking about using your 50mm lens to focus on the foreground trees for one shot and then shooting another frame wit the 50mm lens while focusing on the trees in the background, yes, that is a very common technique used by landscape photographers.
Click to expand...
I was kidding. Knowing myself as a Get-it-right personality, my brain gave me the idea to use the 600mm… I figured it didn’t make any sense.

What I need, first and foremost, is a nodal point slider.
RRS is expensive!
IMG_9090.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

Then, I need to figure out the Nodal point on the lenses I want to use, AND figure out each focal length individually. That is intensive work!
 
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Save your money and get a cheap nodal rail and use it with any arcaswiss tripod head that can pan easily. You will only need a nodal rail if you have closer foreground objects. A telephoto pano shot can be done without a nodal rail, and honestly 90% of my panos have been hand held.
 
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JoelKlein said:
I was kidding. Knowing myself as a Get-it-right personality, my brain gave me the idea to use the 600mm… I figured it didn’t make any sense.

What I need, first and foremost, is a nodal point slider.
RRS is expensive!
View attachment 100097
Then, I need to figure out the Nodal point on the lenses I want to use, AND figure out each focal length individually. That is intensive work!
Click to expand...
I believe the nodal point is the sensor on the camera.....not the lens.
 
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GregT943 said:
Something like this simple nodal slide is perfectly fine. I use one of these on my standard ball head, and I have a note on my phone for where the nodal point is on the slider for each of my lenses. I have also seen people simply mark the slide, or color code marks on the slide for their lenses. Just make sure your tripod is level when shooting.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1120233-REG/sunwayfoto_dmp_200r_multi_purpose_rail_nodal.html
Click to expand...
Thank you!

I own the Oben GH-30. Will the plate you linked work with that?
https://links.bhphotovideo.com/u/nr...9ca328e07fcaba0231543e8f941ab428bc289001c5239
 
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JoelKlein said:
Can you elaborate as to why I don’t need a nodal rail?
Click to expand...
You only need a nodal rail if you have objects within your image that will be close to your camera. Paralax isn't an issue if you are doing a pano of distant objects, such as distant mountains. However if you are doing a woodland scene where there are lots of up close objects and subjects of varying distances from your lens you will need a nodal rail to avoid paralax and have the images stitch together without issue. Here is a video that shows it well, and also shows a simple setup that I am referring to, which is just a ball head and nodal rail. If you have an L bracket you can easily orientate your camera in a portrait position on the rail. Having your tripod level is very important as well.

 
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