Large Lens choice and Solar Filter solutions for April 8 Eclipse

[PDP]

I shot the 2017 eclipse with my Nikkor 70-200 f2.8 where screw on filter choices were available. Up until now, I was under the impression the longer the better. For the upcoming eclipse I have access to the Z400 and Z600 TC lenses. From those with prior experience with these focal lengths, which would you suggest? I was a bit surprised that on the very informative B&H sponsored Webinar a few nights ago (by a couple who have photographed more than 10 of them) link: https://langellphotography.com/photograph-the-eclipse/?mc_cid=0ee2bca8c3&mc_eid=d3427c51e7 that <400mm was favored with the rationale being longer than that would limit capturing the entire corona but with a high MP camera cropping would still give excellent resolution for the tighter solar disc shots. So which should I use, 400/560 or 600/840?

And either way I need a high-quality slip-on and off solar filter over the front of the lens on for the partial phase, off for totality and then right back on after 3rd contact. Need something stable and easy but not up for a major DIY project. Thousand Oaks has what looks like a good solution https://thousandoaksoptical.com/shop/solar-filters/full-aperture-solarlite-polymer/. Welcome advice from any who have used this as well as other suggestions.

 

[Dave Stargazer]

I shot the 2017 eclipse with my Nikkor 70-200 f2.8 where screw on filter choices were available. Up until now, I was under the impression the longer the better. For the upcoming eclipse I have access to the Z400 and Z600 TC lenses. From those with prior experience with these focal lengths, which would you suggest? I was a bit surprised that on the very informative B&H sponsored Webinar a few nights ago (by a couple who have photographed more than 10 of them) link: https://langellphotography.com/photograph-the-eclipse/?mc_cid=0ee2bca8c3&mc_eid=d3427c51e7 that <400mm was favored with the rationale being longer than that would limit capturing the entire corona but with a high MP camera cropping would still give excellent resolution for the tighter solar disc shots. So which should I use, 400/560 or 600/840?

And either way I need a high-quality slip-on and off solar filter over the front of the lens on for the partial phase, off for totality and then right back on after 3rd contact. Need something stable and easy but not up for a major DIY project. Thousand Oaks has what looks like a good solution https://thousandoaksoptical.com/shop/solar-filters/full-aperture-solarlite-polymer/. Welcome advice from any who have used this as well as other suggestions.

I captured the 2017 eclipse @500mm and the entirety of the corona was not in the frame - but close. I'm not sure if I'll go 400mm or 560mm w/1.4TC this time.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the earth is rotating, so tripod head adjustments need to be made, unless you have a star tracker. The more magnification, the more the movement, so I would not recommend the 600/840 option without a star tracker (or a geared head and babysitting it), and only if you want to get the prominence/edge of the sun details without much of the corona.

Check this page, although his 500mm FX seems smaller than what I captured: https://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html - really good eclipse info on that site.

As far as solar filters, of course you don't need one at totality, but you do before/after that. I have the NiSi 95mm solar from B&H (check them for quality solar filters), which seems good, but is a screw-on type. I'm in the Maven Filter Wave 2 kickstarter (also did Wave 1 - his filters are quite good), which are magnetic, and hopefully I will get his 95mm solar in time. The magnetic filter should be much easier to pop off, then back on.

A caveat - when you take the filter on/off be sure to recheck focus! That action can move the lens a bit, so you no longer have perfect focus!

Second caveat - a total eclipse is a mindboggling experience, especially if you've never seen one before! A partial eclipse, even 99%, is nothing like totality - it's a unique experience. One recommendation is to *not* try and take images during your first one - just enjoy it! It is very easy to make mistakes/lose track of things during that brief period. I split my time between just "being there" and doing a big bracket. In 2017, I had a plan, and executed it, but not at all perfectly. This time I plan on planning, practicing, and getting as much automated as I possibly can.

Wish you and everyone clear skies!

...Dave...

 

[John Navitsky]

depends on what you want. i shot the last one with the 180-600, and 600 was definitely good for getting large in frame, but the problem was it was boring.

i think to make them interesting you may want some foreground element and it takes a lot of careful planning to get foreground elements, especially when shooting long

where i was at, 180 was still to long to get any foreground elements

personally i’d try to have filters for two different focal ranges, spend some time with photopills and do some practice. exposing the sun is straightforward but exposing for the sun and something else is tricky

 

[GrandNagus50]

Second caveat - a total eclipse is a mindboggling experience, especially if you've never seen one before! A partial eclipse, even 99%, is nothing like totality - it's a unique experience. One recommendation is to *not* try and take images during your first one - just enjoy it! It is very easy to make mistakes/lose track of things during that brief period. I split my time between just "being there" and doing a big bracket. In 2017, I had a plan, and executed it, but not at all perfectly. This time I plan on planning, practicing, and getting as much automated as I possibly can.

Wish you and everyone clear skies!

...Dave...

Hear, hear! I traveled to Oregon for the 2017 eclipse, and I spent about 80% of the relatively short period of totality futzing with my camera (I actually used my Sony RX10iv). After it was all over, I had---a few decent photos of a total eclipse that at best, looked like other people's decent photos of a total eclipse. I really felt that I missed the experience of the eclipse almost completely.

For this upcoming eclipse my wife and I have joined an "eclipse trip" that will travel in a chartered jet to Mazatlan and stay at a resort hotel. In case of cloudy weather (odds are against it, but it is possible) we will pile into busses and drive two hours to escape the fog. This will be a fairly long totality compared with 2017 in Oregon, but I am not going to take photos this time. I am going to "be" and let myself experience this phenomenon, recording a "video" only in my brain's memory cells.

 

[Charles Loy]

I photo the SUN very often, yesterday included. Thousand Oaks; mine is screw in and the threads are slight, half turn and no more, likely less. It's a decent quality and uses film, not glass. I don't think they offer a glass sun filter. OK filter but I wish for deeper mounting threads.

My fav is "Star GUY" it friction fits into the lens hood, simple and very good. Not sure, but I think I bought it at B-H.

Snapping the eclipse is not as exciting as the full SUN, my opinion - at this time our SUN is flaring big time - very active and has been for a couple weeks.

 

[TurtleCat]

I live where the eclipse will be about 90% and I haven’t decided if I’m going to try it or not. I lived in the totality area last time and enjoyed pics and time with it. If I do I’m going to do video this time on my ASI 2600mc pro and try to automate the process. Video is the way to go to avoid atmospheric issues.

Of course the best views will be those with Hydrogen Alpha filters and mono sensors.

 

[PDP]

Thank you all for the input. I agree photopils is helpful (used it in 2017 in Kentucky at the point of max duration with 2 minutes and change of totality) and with all the other comments about the eclipse experience. Did a lot of planning for that and whether lucky or good I got both to enjoy seeing it and some good shots but replacing DSLR with mirrorless, and access to big glass are the new variables. I considered Mexico and it sounds like you will be doing it in style but will be in Kerville, TX so will still have nearly 4 and a half minutes this time and I hope clear skies. Screw on filter not an option even for the "small" 400TC, the one it sounds like I should take.

So still looking for help on a slip-on solar filter without having to jury rig one myself. As long as I don't inadvertently turn the focus ring putting on and taking off the filter, the focus shouldn't change. In fact, as I type this I wonder if I can disable the focus ring with the Z9 and will have to check. Also as to capturing interesting backgrounds, with an elevation in Kerville of 68 degrees expect be best I may do for background will be stars, a planet or two and the comet that is supposed to be visible.

This was the filter I was considering again https://thousandoaksoptical.com/shop/solar-filters/full-aperture-solarlite-polymer/ They bill it with the blurb" "After years of R&D we have developed a new solar film that has the optical quality of glass with the advantages of impregnated polymer. Will never develop pinholes or scratches that can let in light and ruin a filter. Other advantages: lightweight and does not require re-balancing tube assembly, will not break, consistent yellow-orange solar image, even density with any aperture, flat surface compared to other thin film filters that have wrinkles and creases. Will not tear or puncture. Stronger than any other solar film on the market. Also available in sheets. Guaranteed 15 years."

 

[Fishboy1952]

+1 on making sure you experience the moment. I photographed the 2017 eclipse from Corvallis Oregon with totality at about 1 minute 40 seconds. It was my first total solar eclipse and I had read that you shouldn’t try too much. I shot it with a Nikon bridge camera on a tripod. So as totality hit, I started shooting and set an alarm for one minute. When the alarm went off I dropped everything and just watched. The images I got were decent, and they serve as a memory jogger for the experience.
I will be driving to Texas for the next one in April. I was planning on using my Z9 with a 500 PF, but after reading this thread, I may take the 400 4.5 as well. I have both Kendrick and Seymour slip on solar filters. Both appear to be good quality.