Hi all. I'm mainly a bird photographer, but i would like to take some long exposure panoramas during my trip to New Zealand. I'll be using my Canon 6D dslr and a 10 stop nd filter. I understand how to use this setup for single shots, but with a pano i'll be taking multiple images to stich in post. So, my question is, it would seem i'd need to remove the filter between shots so as to be able to see the scene in order to move the camera to overlap the previous shot. Is there another way? I believe Nikon allows this by going into shutter priority mode. Thanks in advance.
If you’re only doing single row, it’s pretty straight forward. Many heads have a 390 deg. graduated base. I like about 1/3 overlap. Just work out how many degrees rotation for each frame. I do a test shoot without any filters before committing. Make sure you’re set up nice and level. I shoot in portrait orientatio.
For multiple rows it’s the same except that you need to determine how far up or down the rotation is for your next row. Ball heads aren’t your best friend for this.
You also need to consider the axis or rotation….its not the centre of the camera body. Your rotation needs to be around the entrance pupil or as commonly called, nodal point. A plate with a clamp that lets you slide the camera back behind centres is all you need.
A proper set up for multi rows will also have the vertical movement around this point also.
A proper pano rig will have ability to adjust back and forth as well as vertically. Some gimbal heads can also be useful.
The wider the pano range, the more important it becomes. Single row pano’s with a modest horizontal sweep, in portrait orientation are pretty forgiving and stitch together pretty well. if there is near objects in the foreground the more distortion will be seen.
A relatively straight section of river can develop a nasty curve without the right set up.
You can also do modest one hand held as well, just don’t expect too much. Just remember to try to roTate around the entrance pupil.
Attached is a hand held with a 20 f/1.8. It covered about 120 degrees. Nothing special but it gives you an idea what’s possible.
If you look at the horizon, you can see some of the errors creeping in.
I’m sure there are others here with way more experience. Best advice is practice before you go rather than when it matters.
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