Night photography (General question)

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Harry.G

Well-known member
Hi Guys

after reading through a few topics on the forum that involve photography at night I was wondering ""were do you focus""

So if were to stumble upon a nice scene that I wanted to take a few shots of which had, a tree line with mountains behind and a night time sky with stars "how would I focus in the dark" where do you focus in order to get a sharp image ? ?


Harry.G
 
I'd use the hyperfocal distance for the lens and camera settings I was using. There are apps to calculate that. Manual focus would be required. If calculations showed 65' for f11, I'd estimate where 65' was and set the focus there. If your camera has a DOF preview button you can always use that though the viewfinder gets kinda dark!
 
Hi Guys

after reading through a few topics on the forum that involve photography at night I was wondering ""were do you focus""

So if were to stumble upon a nice scene that I wanted to take a few shots of which had, a tree line with mountains behind and a night time sky with stars "how would I focus in the dark" where do you focus in order to get a sharp image ? ?


Harry.G
That depends on the image. For many if not most of my nightscape shots I focus in Live View mode zoomed in on a star or more often a very bright planet and when shooting with a wide angle lens (typical for Milky Way shots) I just rely on the intrinsic DoF and don't have any foreground objects too close. If I do have super close foreground objects then I shoot multiple exposures and basically focus stack the images to hold both the close foreground and the stars in focus. Again, live view with the ISO temporarily bumped sky high during focusing and often a headlamp to illuminate the scene makes focusing on those close in foreground objects easier. Focus peaking on cameras that support that feature helps as well.
 
It is a good idea to pull up a DOF calculator with landscape photography to get the hyperfocal distance and shoot in Live VIew mode. I use the Focus Peaking feature of my D850 to make sure I'm getting what I expect as the Pv button is useless at smaller apertures with fading light. Mirrorless cameras have a big advantage here over my dslrs.

After watching a few videos by professional landscape photographers, I've started taking 3 shots of the scene and stacking them in post. First focused near, 2nd mid distance, 3rd far distance. This allows me to avoid diffraction or extremely long shutter times at smaller apertures beyond f/11.
 
Shooting the milky way I manually focus using live view zoomed in on a single star or planet. If I have an interesting foreground I use a flashlight and focus on what I can see. For something like an owl in the dark I will never use a flashlight or flash, I then manually focus using liveview zoomed in until I can see "something" if possible.

<--- not a pro
 
I'm using Nikon Z cameras and the low light auto focus a11 works amazingly well. Just aim at any distant source of light to get infinity focus. I crank up the ISO to get a graining image for composing and then readjust to low ISO and take an image guessing on settings, review the result and adjust accordingly.
 
It really depends on your lens focal length and your focus target.

Generally my astrophotography is with a wide or ultrawide lens if I include the landscape. Even at f/2 to f/2.8 or faster, there is a huge DOF. Hyperfocal distance may be 10-15 feet away, so you don't need to be too picky. BUT - if I want to photograph star pinpoints, I use the approach DR mentioned and focus on a bright star or planet. If I want a subject that is closer - which is uncommon - I might focus on a distant campsite, a street lamp, or a headlight. Beyond that - for really close foreground elements, I'd use hyperfocal and focus at 8-12 feet away or closer.

The other extreme is photographs of the moon or similar subjects using a long lens. There you need a lot more precision. I'll still use a fast aperture - f/4 or faster if possible to keep the shutter speed up. I'll typically use AF with Live View focusing on the edge of the moon. That's a high contrast target and while round, the roundness does not matter. If it's a low light image such as a lunar eclipse during totality, I'll use Pinpoint AF with Low Light AF on my Nikon Z cameras. The last time I photographed a complete lunar eclipse, I stopped using my D850 and just used my Nikon Z6 because AF was so much easier with an EVF.

In both cases, once you have accurate focus achieved, you don't need to focus again or adjust focus. But in practice, I'd never do that. It's too easy to have an AF error. I was at Mesa Arch a few years ago and another group was just finishing an all night astro session. As they were packing up from their last set of images, a girl in the group shouted to the others that all of here images were out of focus. Apparently the AF had been changed by mistake and her entire set of long exposure images over the past couple of hours was out of focus.
 
It really depends on your lens focal length and your focus target.

Generally my astrophotography is with a wide or ultrawide lens if I include the landscape. Even at f/2 to f/2.8 or faster, there is a huge DOF. Hyperfocal distance may be 10-15 feet away, so you don't need to be too picky. BUT - if I want to photograph star pinpoints, I use the approach DR mentioned and focus on a bright star or planet. If I want a subject that is closer - which is uncommon - I might focus on a distant campsite, a street lamp, or a headlight. Beyond that - for really close foreground elements, I'd use hyperfocal and focus at 8-12 feet away or closer.

The other extreme is photographs of the moon or similar subjects using a long lens. There you need a lot more precision. I'll still use a fast aperture - f/4 or faster if possible to keep the shutter speed up. I'll typically use AF with Live View focusing on the edge of the moon. That's a high contrast target and while round, the roundness does not matter. If it's a low light image such as a lunar eclipse during totality, I'll use Pinpoint AF with Low Light AF on my Nikon Z cameras. The last time I photographed a complete lunar eclipse, I stopped using my D850 and just used my Nikon Z6 because AF was so much easier with an EVF.

In both cases, once you have accurate focus achieved, you don't need to focus again or adjust focus. But in practice, I'd never do that. It's too easy to have an AF error. I was at Mesa Arch a few years ago and another group was just finishing an all night astro session. As they were packing up from their last set of images, a girl in the group shouted to the others that all of here images were out of focus. Apparently the AF had been changed by mistake and her entire set of long exposure images over the past couple of hours was out of focus.
That's a bummer, hopefully not a once in a lifetime event. lol
 
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