Self driving Safari in Kenya

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BWP

BWP

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Hi Folks,

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with a self driving safari in Kenya? I lived there in 1982 and did lots of photography trips in my Landrover, so I'm thinking of traveling to Kenya and rent a Landrover when I get there. This would give me a little more freedom to setup the shots that I want rather than being in a crowded vehicle with 4-5 other photographers. Three weeks will give me enough time to get to the areas of interest to me.

However, I can see a couple of detractors, like not having access to the radio frequencies to 'hear' about finds that the tour operators have made. I'd love to hear from anyone who has gone this route, and any advice you might have. I'm thinking of going to Lake Nakuru, the Masai Mara, Nairobi National Park and possibly the Serengeti.

Thoughts? Advice? Pros and Cons? I'm open to hearing what others have to say.

Cheers,
 
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I suggest getting a local guide/expert. Things have changed a lot since 1982. There are guides for every level of interest. It is a big trip in a big country, and winging it on one's own is unlikely to deliver a good result.
 
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Thanks Anthony, do you happen to know of any good guides? Secondary question, if they are not associated with a particular lodge should I assume that we have to pay for their accomodation and meals, in addition to the guide services?
 
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Anthony said:
I suggest getting a local guide/expert. Things have changed a lot since 1982. There are guides for every level of interest. It is a big trip in a big country, and winging it on one's own is unlikely to deliver a good result.
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One more question..... in your opinion, how have things changed since 1982?
 
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BWP said:
One more question..... in your opinion, how have things changed since 1982?
Click to expand...
There have been big changes everywhere since 1982. In the case of Kenya, changes include a large increase in population, which puts pressure on resources. According to Wikipedia, it was 19.2 million in 1980 and 47.5 million in 2019. There has also been a large increase in tourism. I suggest consulting a local expert for up to date advice.
 
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Personally I would not self drive.

1. Guides have a network and share information
2. Guides may know the landscape areas to avoid (mucky, impassable, ...)
3. Guides know animal behaviour exceptionally well and may be able to position you better
4. If you drive there will be a dead time between driving and shooting

Granted not all guides are really good.
 
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RichF said:
Personally I would not self drive.

1. Guides have a network and share information
2. Guides may know the landscape areas to avoid (mucky, impassable, ...)
3. Guides know animal behaviour exceptionally well and may be able to position you better
4. If you drive there will be a dead time between driving and shooting

Granted not all guides are really good.
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Understood Rich, but having spent a year there and having done many 'self drive' safari's there are two things I can tell you. First, there is literally wildlife in every direction and it would be difficult to not find the animals we are interested in. Second, I found it easier to position myself when there wasn't a crowd of tourists around. Having said that, I have emailed the Meikan Safari folks in Nairobi to see what they have to offer. I did like the setup they have on their landrovers as it makes it easier to get down low for eye level shots, so there's that.
 
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Anthony said:
There have been big changes everywhere since 1982. In the case of Kenya, changes include a large increase in population, which puts pressure on resources. According to Wikipedia, it was 19.2 million in 1980 and 47.5 million in 2019. There has also been a large increase in tourism. I suggest consulting a local expert for up to date advice.
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Asante sana Anthony. I have a pilot friend who was chief pilot for Kenya Airways, but who has since retired to Australia. He said that the one reason that he and his family left after 40 years is due to a significant increase in crime, including violent crime. When I lived there crime was a concern as it often is in poverty stricken areas. This is probably my biggest concern, but in general I found the people of Kenya to be very warm and genuine. It would be nice to hear from someone who has been there recently to gauge their experience over what my pilot friend told me a couple of days ago. He left Kenya about 4 years ago now, but it would be unlikely that things have changed significantly.
 
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BWP said:
Understood Rich, but having spent a year there and having done many 'self drive' safari's there are two things I can tell you. First, there is literally wildlife in every direction and it would be difficult to not find the animals we are interested in. Second, I found it easier to position myself when there wasn't a crowd of tourists around. Having said that, I have emailed the Meikan Safari folks in Nairobi to see what they have to offer. I did like the setup they have on their landrovers as it makes it easier to get down low for eye level shots, so there's that.
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good luck. Keep us posted how it goes
 
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BWP said:
Asante sana Anthony. I have a pilot friend who was chief pilot for Kenya Airways, but who has since retired to Australia. He said that the one reason that he and his family left after 40 years is due to a significant increase in crime, including violent crime. When I lived there crime was a concern as it often is in poverty stricken areas. This is probably my biggest concern, but in general I found the people of Kenya to be very warm and genuine. It would be nice to hear from someone who has been there recently to gauge their experience over what my pilot friend told me a couple of days ago. He left Kenya about 4 years ago now, but it would be unlikely that things have changed significantly.
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In our dozen (or is it 2 dozen?) trips to kenya and tanzania we are very cautious in the cities. Once we are in bush, we are much more relaxed. Then again we are in a group with multiple vehicles so that may add to the security
 
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Flemming Morgan said:
You should be very careful in the big cities and towns but our experience is that once you get out in to the bush and smaller towns people are incredibly friendly
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I think that has always been true Flemming. However, when I lived in Kenya we would occasionally hear in the local news about a bus load of tourists being robbed of all their possessions. Never heard of any violence, but the local thieves were pretty brazen. Most of the police force was corrupt, also not surprising in a low income portion of the world. I myself was never threatened, but some of my co-workers were. Having said all of that, I believe that the game reserves were pretty safe with respect to human predators as they didn't want to pay the entrance fee. The animals on the other hand.....
 
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BWP said:
Hi Folks,

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with a self driving safari in Kenya? I lived there in 1982 and did lots of photography trips in my Landrover, so I'm thinking of traveling to Kenya and rent a Landrover when I get there. This would give me a little more freedom to setup the shots that I want rather than being in a crowded vehicle with 4-5 other photographers. Three weeks will give me enough time to get to the areas of interest to me.

However, I can see a couple of detractors, like not having access to the radio frequencies to 'hear' about finds that the tour operators have made. I'd love to hear from anyone who has gone this route, and any advice you might have. I'm thinking of going to Lake Nakuru, the Masai Mara, Nairobi National Park and possibly the Serengeti.

Thoughts? Advice? Pros and Cons? I'm open to hearing what others have to say.

Cheers,
Click to expand...
Hi Bruce,

For info the private vehicle ban in the main Masai Mara reserve is being enforced and is one of the measures to reduce visitor numbers which have had a negative impact on the Mara (the other initiative is a sharp rise in the entrance fee). As an illustration, there are almost 200 camps and lodges in the Mara now. Kenya has many great things in its favour, the people, landscape and of course the wildlife but there are downsides too. Things have definitely changed since 1982, with much expansion and building, greta choice of shopping, entertainment and leisure facilities. This has attracted significant movement of people in search of opportunity particularly in urban areas such as Nairobi and Mombasa where population numbers have risen significantly with a resultant increase with the volume of traffic being the main issue as infrastructure hasn't always kept up pace although you will be pleasantly surprised by what has been done with the expansion and development of the the main routes.

Self driving in areas like Nairobi National Park, Amboseli, Tsavo East and West, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Lake Naivasha and Hell Gate Park, Lake Nakuru etc is certainly doable and once inside these parks, your have good safety and decent security. Access to the Parks that are run by Kenya Wildlife Service is via an online pre payment system that you can access vis the portal you need to register with to get your electronic travel authority.

The main risks are road traffic collisions on the arterial roads to and from these locations - driving standards are poor and there is little regard given to rules of the road so keeping ones wits about is essential. The crime risks outside the parks increase significantly, particularly in urban areas and there is the very real possibility you could get stopped by Police soliciting bribes whilst travelling; my record is 6 stops during a 4 hr run from Nairobi to the Masai Mara. Having lived here for 8 years you learn how to engage and manage these types of situations. Navigation can be tricky off major routes as sat nav and online maps do not get updated regularly enough to be totally reliable and there re often changes to routes that seemingly pop up overnight. I would not advocate driving at night as the accident and crime risks rise considerably. For these reasons, I would err on the side of caution and, as many have mentioned above, would suggest you use a local driver/guide who has the local knowledge and language to make it a smooth adventure. This also gives you greater freedom than being in a group. There are a number of companies that provide a driver/guide and vehicle (best avoid the safari vans and stick to a land cruiser) that can take you to and from venues as well as guiding in the Parks. You may wish to browse the following to get a sense of what is on offer.
www.africakenyasafaris.com

Africa Kenya Safaris: 2024/25 Kenya Safari Tour Packages

Africa Kenya Safaris offers Kenya safari tours, Tanzania Safaris and Combined Kenya / Tanzania Safari packages - start your African journey with us today!
www.africakenyasafaris.com www.africakenyasafaris.com

Twiga Tours, East Africa's Premier Safari Company! - TWIGA TOURS

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The Travel - Tour Travel

bonfireadventures.com bonfireadventures.com

Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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I’ve lived in Kenya since 2020. I think the main things are largely covered here, but I’ll throw in my two pence anyhow. In my opinion Kenya is an excellent self-drive safari destination. My situation is a little different as I have owned my own car here (renting is perhaps more expensive than you might like and fuel prices are high). However, the freedom to go where you want and photograph what you want, when you want to, is unparalleled. You don’t necessarily need a Land Rover - I have been to almost all of Kenya’s national parks in my trusty Nissan X-Trail. The only national park that ever caused problems was Meru, as the roads are extremely rocky and smashed off my exhaust pipe on one visit. But it’s not a national park I’d say is a must-visit anyway. The Mara gets bad in rains because of the black cotton soil which gets very boggy however - as has been pointed out - the Narok County Government who manages the reserve have banned private vehicles anyway (scapegoating them for a problem that has other causes). The word on the street is that you can still self-drive in the Mara Triangle though - and, if you can hack a horrible bumpy road to get there from
Narok it is a much better part of the reserve anyway. Fewer cars, same wildlife. I also think this rule will likely be overturned in the near future anyway

One of the problems with going with a tour company and using a local guide is their assumption that a) you only want to see cats (I call it ‘cat hopping’) and b) you went to get as close as possible to all your subjects. These problems go away if you pay for a photography-specific trip but the costs of those can be eye-watering. If you want any recommendations for guides I do know many (I am actually a guide myself but am leaving Kenya soon) then I can hook you up with someone depending on what you’re looking for.

The roads in the national parks and conservancies are generally good in my opinion. You’re not allowed to off-road in most places anyway (rules here are not strictly enforced but it’s an ethical no-no in my opinion). Maybe I’ve got used to it, but I also think most of the roads across the country are ok. The Mombasa road (which takes you from Nairobi to places like Tsavo, Amboseli and the coast) is a bit tedious with all the lorries and police stops but is fine. The road ‘up country’ from
Nairobi to Naivasha, Elementaita, Nakuru etc can be quite dangerous but if you drive with your wits about you it’s fine. Just ignore the bodas (motorbikes) and matatus (public buses) and let them do their own thing.

I’m leaving Kenya next month for a new life in Brazil and know that I will miss the freedom that this country offers like a limb. Feel free to ask me any questions about Kenya.
 
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BWP said:
I think that has always been true Flemming. However, when I lived in Kenya we would occasionally hear in the local news about a bus load of tourists being robbed of all their possessions. Never heard of any violence, but the local thieves were pretty brazen. Most of the police force was corrupt, also not surprising in a low income portion of the world. I myself was never threatened, but some of my co-workers were. Having said all of that, I believe that the game reserves were pretty safe with respect to human predators as they didn't want to pay the entrance fee. The animals on the other hand.....
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Yes, I agree. You have more experience having lived there recently so it’s good that you warn everyone.
 
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Robin James said:
I’ve lived in Kenya since 2020. I think the main things are largely covered here, but I’ll throw in my two pence anyhow. In my opinion Kenya is an excellent self-drive safari destination. My situation is a little different as I have owned my own car here (renting is perhaps more expensive than you might like and fuel prices are high). However, the freedom to go where you want and photograph what you want, when you want to, is unparalleled. You don’t necessarily need a Land Rover - I have been to almost all of Kenya’s national parks in my trusty Nissan X-Trail. The only national park that ever caused problems was Meru, as the roads are extremely rocky and smashed off my exhaust pipe on one visit. But it’s not a national park I’d say is a must-visit anyway. The Mara gets bad in rains because of the black cotton soil which gets very boggy however - as has been pointed out - the Narok County Government who manages the reserve have banned private vehicles anyway (scapegoating them for a problem that has other causes). The word on the street is that you can still self-drive in the Mara Triangle though - and, if you can hack a horrible bumpy road to get there from
Narok it is a much better part of the reserve anyway. Fewer cars, same wildlife. I also think this rule will likely be overturned in the near future anyway

One of the problems with going with a tour company and using a local guide is their assumption that a) you only want to see cats (I call it ‘cat hopping’) and b) you went to get as close as possible to all your subjects. These problems go away if you pay for a photography-specific trip but the costs of those can be eye-watering. If you want any recommendations for guides I do know many (I am actually a guide myself but am leaving Kenya soon) then I can hook you up with someone depending on what you’re looking for.

The roads in the national parks and conservancies are generally good in my opinion. You’re not allowed to off-road in most places anyway (rules here are not strictly enforced but it’s an ethical no-no in my opinion). Maybe I’ve got used to it, but I also think most of the roads across the country are ok. The Mombasa road (which takes you from Nairobi to places like Tsavo, Amboseli and the coast) is a bit tedious with all the lorries and police stops but is fine. The road ‘up country’ from
Nairobi to Naivasha, Elementaita, Nakuru etc can be quite dangerous but if you drive with your wits about you it’s fine. Just ignore the bodas (motorbikes) and matatus (public buses) and let them do their own thing.

I’m leaving Kenya next month for a new life in Brazil and know that I will miss the freedom that this country offers like a limb. Feel free to ask me any questions about Kenya.
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Hi Robin,

Thanks for your response. I sent you a PM along with some questions.

Cheers,
 
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