Soft images with long lenses

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EricBowles

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There are a lot of posts about soft images and technique. I've got an interesting example from a recent astrophotography session using a long lens.

I was using a Nikon Z6 with the Nikon 600mm f/4 AFS VR. I used it with and without the TC14E III teleconverter. My tripod is a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L with a Really Right Stuff gimbal head. Through the EVF, focus was perfect and the image was very sharp. I used Exposure Delay Mode with a delay of 2 seconds. All that is pretty straight forward. The catch is my image settings were 0.5 seconds, ISO 1000, and f/5.6 with the teleconverter. While I could have increased the shutter speed by raising ISO to ISO 6400, it only buys about a couple of stops, and a 1/8 second exposure is not going to be that different. There was a light wind. My ideal subject was the moon, but I also took images of Venus and a nearby star.

The problem was that on playback, every image was soft. It's not the gear, so let's look at technique.
  • I used Long Lens Technique with a hand firmly on top of the lens barrel above the tripod mount.
  • I did not remove the hood
  • The gimbal head was locked down and VR and IBIS were turned off.
  • I use a Hoodman Eyecup and my eye was pressed against the EVF and the camera.
  • The tripod was positioned out of the wind as much as possible.
  • Camera straps were tucked away or removed completely to reduce the impact of wind.
  • I was on a concrete platform.

Here is the image of the moon without the teleconverter to give you an idea of the shot.
Brasstown Bald_7-17-2020_326415.jpg
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Here is a screen shot of a small portion of the image I was trying to make - at 300% showing a single star. This was with the lens and teleconverter - 850mm equivalent. It's pretty obvious, there is motion and you won't maintain fine detail with this kind of movement. As you can see, the lens is capable of resolving detail, but there is far too much movement in a half second exposure to maintain detail.
Soft star.JPG
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We talk a lot about soft images, causes of soft images, lens resolution, etc. But even with pretty good technique - this kind of movement is there.

So what does it mean. Obviously - it's not my gear. Clearly, I need to work more on technique. This is a pretty extreme situation with a half second shutter speed and equivalent 850mm focal length. But if you want a sharp image, here is something to try to see if your technique is adequate.

I'm sure there will be some additional suggestions for technique as well. One possibility is to put more weight on the camera and lens. I will add that in this case my shooting location required a 0.7 mile hike with a 15% grade at 3:30 AM.

Finally - here is the scene with a wide lens. This is Brasstown Bald - the highest point in Georgia - and the trip was originally for NEOWISE and the conjunction of the moon and Venus.
Brasstown Bald_7-17-2020_326401.jpg
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One possibility is to put more weight on the camera and lens.
That was my first thought. Traditional Moose P. style long lens technique works great for more typical wildlife shutter speeds but among other things it is helped by keeping the tripod head a bit loose and not locked down.

In situations like you describe I've often locked down my controls and placed a medium weight sandbag up on top of the lens about where I'd normally place my hand using long lens technique. I guess I don't trust my own stability out in the dark at night and that I might actually be introducing some of the shake. I'd probably also use a longer delay or a cable release and mirror lock up as 2 seconds isn't all that long for vibrations to dampen on such a big lens. And of course with some wind it can help to remove the lens hood which isn't normally a problem for night shots right at the brightest object in the sky.

I remember one shoot using my 600mm f/4 for multi second exposures and I actually took a second tripod, put a bean bag up on top of it and gently raised it until it provided some support to the bottom side of my lens right near the front element. The idea was to provide some dampened support out at the end to dampen vibrations as they traveled up the lens so they didn't bounce back and travel right back down the lens. Can't say if that was the game changer but the images came back sharp.
 
I have the RRS long lens support and it does work very well, I've gotten sharp shots at 1/60 sec with the 600 and 1.4 tc on a loose gimbal. One issue with what the OP describes is the shutter speed. 1/8 sec is about the worst you can use, not long enough so any shake sorts out and not short enough to stop motion. I usually shoot the moon around 1/30, there is subject motion as the earth is rotating during the exposure. If the tripod is locked down, I don't touch the camera/lens. I use mirror lock up and either a wired or radio remote trigger.
 
I have the RRS long lens support and it does work very well, I've gotten sharp shots at 1/60 sec with the 600 and 1.4 tc on a loose gimbal. One issue with what the OP describes is the shutter speed. 1/8 sec is about the worst you can use, not long enough so any shake sorts out and not short enough to stop motion. I usually shoot the moon around 1/30, there is subject motion as the earth is rotating during the exposure. If the tripod is locked down, I don't touch the camera/lens. I use mirror lock up and either a wired or radio remote trigger.

For the dark side of the moon as in this image, 1/30 of a second is not practical. You need a much longer shutter speed than that even with ISO increased. I did try shooting without touching the camera and lens and found that even a small amount of wind created too much vibration. While it potentially adds some risk of vibration from your hand on the lens barrel, it was better than not touching the lens at all.
 
Get the lens hood off, it's a sail. As DRwyoming said, get your hand off and replace it with a sandbag or some other weight. You are also dealing with air movement in any breeze and even with air currents as warm air rises or cool air sinks.
 
Another factor is the elevation. Taking the shot at 5,000 feet as compared to being at sea level makes for shooting through a great deal more air. It is why observatories are built on mountain tops. I live near the ocean and shooting a blue moon at Escalante elevation 5800 feet the improved clarity with less atmosphere was easy to see.

Sometimes what initially looks like a lack of sharpness is more a lack of contrast in the scene or subject.
 
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