Sunny 16 Rule

[LL4D500]

As many Members have said, Steve provides a wealth of information in his books! Being a “Analytical/Numbers Guy”, I was really intrigued by the Section on “Exposure Value (EV)” on pages 235-233 in “Secrets to Exposure and Metering for Nikon.” Steve often states that the more knowledgeable we have/understand about Focusing, Metering and Exposure, the more likely we are to be able to anticipate/predict what our settings should be!

After reading the above Section that referenced “Sunny 16”, I put the following two cards together (back/back) and laminated them. “Sunny 16” is also referenced on Page 494-495 in the same resource. With a quick look, I can visualize what I anticipate what my settings should be to get the desired out-come. After setting the camera accordingly and taking the picture, I can see how I did! Yes, I can look through the viewfinder in “Manual” mode and adjust my Shutter Speed, F/Stop by looking at the Exposure Meter to see if things are over/under exposed – but that is letting the camera think for me! Necessary adjustments can be made by changing Shutter Speed, F/Stop, or ISO or Exposure Compensation. From my experience, using the attached cards helps me to become better at proactively selecting my camera settings, rather than re-actively!

To provide an example, if one is taking a picture on a Sunny Bright Day using the Sunny 16 Rule of: ISO 100, 1/100, F/16, it becomes very easy to select from my options, utilizing the chart with the EV Values in “Yellow”. If the desired EV value is 15, I can select any combination of Shutter Speed, F/stop that totals 15.

*As an example, if I am shooting a BIF and want to shoot at 1/2000 of a second (EV=11), I can use F/Stop F 4 (EV=4) and adding the EV’s together, I have “15” with ISO 100. Take the picture and if an adjustment is needed, adjust SS or F/Stop by 1 stop or increase ISO by 1 stop (increases desired EV by +1) or Exposure Compensation accordingly.
*A second example – If I want to shoot a bird standing in a pond and want to prioritize/increase DOF, I can select F/8 (EV 6) and Shutter Speed 1/500 (EV=9), then Total: 15 @ ISO 100.
*A third example – if I want to do the second example picture “Just After Sunset (desired EV=10)”, I can select F/2.8 (EV=3), Shutter Speed 1/100 – closest to 1/120 (EV=7), then Total: 10 @ ISO 100
Note #1: Remember to increase EV by +1, for each stop you increase the ISO.
Note #2: The third picture - Steve had in his book on page 494-495 showing how to adjust, when one changes the ISO
As Steve states in his book, “That means, we can get to an EV of 15 using any of these reciprocal combos on a bright sunny day at ISO 100: 1/125th at F/16, 1/250th at F/11, 1/500th at F/8, 1/1000th at F/5.6, 1/2000th at F/4.”
Most of you may find this too basic based on your photography knowledge, but for someone who has had his eyes opened by Steve, I found it to be very helpful!

You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

 

[Warren D]

While it's a good old rule, it comes with caveats. The definition of a bright sunny day depends on time of year and where you are at. Where I am, mid-day sun in the summer is just about sunny 16. Mid-day sun in the winter, it's not. It will help you see light levels and over time, should help you get in the exposure ballpark.

 

[DRwyoming]

using the attached cards helps me to become better at proactively selecting my camera settings, rather than re-actively!

Not a bad way to learn the concepts but really the beauty of Sunny f/16 is that you don't need any cheat sheets or laminated cards. Just start with Sunny f/16 (on a sunny day of course) and make your adjustments in full stops balancing stops of shutter speed and aperture or ISO as desired.

All you've got to remember is that a 'stop' of shutter speed or ISO is a doubling or halving and the full stop f/ stop sequence is easy to remember.

So for instance if you start with Sunny f/16 at say ISO 200 you'd shoot a 1/200" at f/16. But if you'll really shoot at say f/4 you can just work backwards in full stops:

From 16 to 11, 8, 5.6, 4 or a 4 stop change which allows an equal 4 stop change in shutter speed, ISO or a combo of both. For instance you could take three stops of shutter speed and one stop of ISO and shoot the image at:

f/4, 1/1600", ISO 100 and achieve the same exposure.

Honestly though with modern cameras this is mostly a mental exercise just to get used to reciprocity. Back in the film days I used Sunny f/16 and similar rules a lot more, especially on extended backcountry trips when metering batteries gave out. Here's an image shot using sunny f/16 and some quick mental reciprocity adjustments of my climbing partner high up on Denali (Mt. Mckinley). We'd been on the mountain for almost three weeks and the meter batteries in my old Nikon FE couldn't handle the cold so I'd been shooting without a working meter.

Nikon FE, Fuji Velvia

You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

 

[LL4D500]

Not a bad way to learn the concepts but really the beauty of Sunny f/16 is that you don't need any cheat sheets or laminated cards. Just start with Sunny f/16 (on a sunny day of course) and make your adjustments in full stops balancing stops of shutter speed and aperture or ISO as desired.

All you've got to remember is that a 'stop' of shutter speed or ISO is a doubling or halving and the full stop f/ stop sequence is easy to remember.

So for instance if you start with Sunny f/16 at say ISO 200 you'd shoot a 1/200" at f/16. But if you'll really shoot at say f/4 you can just work backwards in full stops:

From 16 to 11, 8, 5.6, 4 or a 4 stop change which allows an equal 4 stop change in shutter speed, ISO or a combo of both. For instance you could take three stops of shutter speed and one stop of ISO and shoot the image at:

f/4, 1/1600", ISO 100 and achieve the same exposure.

Honestly though with modern cameras this is mostly a mental exercise just to get used to reciprocity. Back in the film days I used Sunny f/16 and similar rules a lot more, especially on extended backcountry trips when metering batteries gave out. Here's an image shot using sunny f/16 and some quick mental reciprocity adjustments of my climbing partner high up on Denali (Mt. Mckinley). We'd been on the mountain for almost three weeks and the meter batteries in my old Nikon FE couldn't handle the cold so I'd been shooting without a working meter.

Nikon FE, Fuji Velvia
View attachment 11019

Thanks - appreciate your comment! Yes, it is a learning tool for me to better understand what I need to do to get the picture I want - gives me a better starting point. As I have read/understood more of Steve’s Metering Tutorial, I have been better able to understand my options and better understand what the Viewfinder Exposure Meter in “M” is showing me. In acknowledgement of what you are saying, I also have another card showing Reciprocity relationships. Getting quicker and more comfortable as result of cards and practice/practice!
Again. I really appreciate getting feedback from you and others that have a lot more experience than I have - expands my knowledge and increases my confidence!

 

[fcotterill]

As I'm another who began with film in early 1980s, with these time-worn saws This was useful with a camera such as my Nikon FM2 when its battery died 'out there'.
I also learnt to visualize the stops as an expanding (or shrinking) cone of light, which 'jumps' in halves. There's this simple rule to "memorize" the f-stop scale, so one only need remember f1 and 1.4....double these numbers out to f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6 etc.

I think it was Nikon's FA that inaugurated the first matrix-metering camera, when released in 1984. Today's cameras make it all so much easier (with so many tweaks etc) - notably allowing us to scroll shutter speeds in 1/3 or 1/2 EVs. This arrived with the F90x (aka N90s) in 1994. Among several advantages, this avoided over exposing film, when shooting fully Manual eg the shutter could be set @ 1/400 or a 1/320 (not 1/250) when handholding a telephoto: 1/3-1/2 more speed = more keepers

 

[LL4D500]

As I'm another who began with film in early 1980s, with these time-worn saws This was useful with a camera such as my Nikon FM2 when its battery died 'out there'.
I also learnt to visualize the stops as an expanding (or shrinking) cone of light, which 'jumps' in halves. There's this simple rule to "memorize" the f-stop scale, so one only need remember f1 and 1.4....double these numbers out to f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6 etc.

I think it was Nikon's FA that inaugurated the first matrix-metering camera, when released in 1984. Today's cameras make it many tweaks etc so much easier, eg options to scroll shutter speeds in 1/3 or 1/2 EVs. This arrived with the F90x (aka N90s) in 1994. Among several advantages, this avoided over exposing film, when shooting fully Manual eg the shutter could be set @ 1/400 or a 1/320 (not 1/250) when handholding a telephoto: 1/3-1/2 more speed = more keepers

The FStop scale is right up my alley - Thanks!!

 

[jeffnles1]

The sunny 16 rule really comes in handy when photographing the full moon. It is always a sunny day on the moon.

I frequently use it as a starting point when in manual mode.

 

[farwest]

Not a bad way to learn the concepts but really the beauty of Sunny f/16 is that you don't need any cheat sheets or laminated cards. Just start with Sunny f/16 (on a sunny day of course) and make your adjustments in full stops balancing stops of shutter speed and aperture or ISO as desired.

All you've got to remember is that a 'stop' of shutter speed or ISO is a doubling or halving and the full stop f/ stop sequence is easy to remember.

So for instance if you start with Sunny f/16 at say ISO 200 you'd shoot a 1/200" at f/16. But if you'll really shoot at say f/4 you can just work backwards in full stops:

From 16 to 11, 8, 5.6, 4 or a 4 stop change which allows an equal 4 stop change in shutter speed, ISO or a combo of both. For instance you could take three stops of shutter speed and one stop of ISO and shoot the image at:

f/4, 1/1600", ISO 100 and achieve the same exposure.

Honestly though with modern cameras this is mostly a mental exercise just to get used to reciprocity. Back in the film days I used Sunny f/16 and similar rules a lot more, especially on extended backcountry trips when metering batteries gave out. Here's an image shot using sunny f/16 and some quick mental reciprocity adjustments of my climbing partner high up on Denali (Mt. Mckinley). We'd been on the mountain for almost three weeks and the meter batteries in my old Nikon FE couldn't handle the cold so I'd been shooting without a working meter.

Nikon FE, Fuji Velvia
View attachment 11019

You nailed it for sure. Three weeks must of been quite the adventure.

 

[Whiskeyman]

Nikon FE, Fuji Velvia
View attachment 11019

I loved shooting Velvia. The color saturation when the light was right was spectacular.

And BTW, nice shot.

W

 

[Whiskeyman]

As many Members have said, Steve provides a wealth of information in his books! Being a “Analytical/Numbers Guy”, I was really intrigued by the Section on “Exposure Value (EV)” on pages 235-233 in “Secrets to Exposure and Metering for Nikon.” Steve often states that the more knowledgeable we have/understand about Focusing, Metering and Exposure, the more likely we are to be able to anticipate/predict what our settings should be!

After reading the above Section that referenced “Sunny 16”, I put the following two cards together (back/back) and laminated them. “Sunny 16” is also referenced on Page 494-495 in the same resource. With a quick look, I can visualize what I anticipate what my settings should be to get the desired out-come. After setting the camera accordingly and taking the picture, I can see how I did! Yes, I can look through the viewfinder in “Manual” mode and adjust my Shutter Speed, F/Stop by looking at the Exposure Meter to see if things are over/under exposed – but that is letting the camera think for me! Necessary adjustments can be made by changing Shutter Speed, F/Stop, or ISO or Exposure Compensation. From my experience, using the attached cards helps me to become better at proactively selecting my camera settings, rather than re-actively!

To provide an example, if one is taking a picture on a Sunny Bright Day using the Sunny 16 Rule of: ISO 100, 1/100, F/16, it becomes very easy to select from my options, utilizing the chart with the EV Values in “Yellow”. If the desired EV value is 15, I can select any combination of Shutter Speed, F/stop that totals 15.

*As an example, if I am shooting a BIF and want to shoot at 1/2000 of a second (EV=11), I can use F/Stop F 4 (EV=4) and adding the EV’s together, I have “15” with ISO 100. Take the picture and if an adjustment is needed, adjust SS or F/Stop by 1 stop or increase ISO by 1 stop (increases desired EV by +1) or Exposure Compensation accordingly.
*A second example – If I want to shoot a bird standing in a pond and want to prioritize/increase DOF, I can select F/8 (EV 6) and Shutter Speed 1/500 (EV=9), then Total: 15 @ ISO 100.
*A third example – if I want to do the second example picture “Just After Sunset (desired EV=10)”, I can select F/2.8 (EV=3), Shutter Speed 1/100 – closest to 1/120 (EV=7), then Total: 10 @ ISO 100
Note #1: Remember to increase EV by +1, for each stop you increase the ISO.
Note #2: The third picture - Steve had in his book on page 494-495 showing how to adjust, when one changes the ISO
As Steve states in his book, “That means, we can get to an EV of 15 using any of these reciprocal combos on a bright sunny day at ISO 100: 1/125th at F/16, 1/250th at F/11, 1/500th at F/8, 1/1000th at F/5.6, 1/2000th at F/4.”
Most of you may find this too basic based on your photography knowledge, but for someone who has had his eyes opened by Steve, I found it to be very helpful!View attachment 11018View attachment 11015View attachment 11016

Good stuff. The best way to get an understanding for this is to do just what you've done, along with using it to determine exposure in the different light situations. IOW, use the data you develop to shoot in the different light you've set the tables for.

W

 

[LL4D500]

Good stuff. The best way to get an understanding for this is to do just what you've done, along with using it to determine exposure in the different light situations. IOW, use the data you develop to shoot in the different light you've set the tables for.

W

It has really helped and gives me a much better understanding in regard to predicting proper settings on the camera or how to improve exposure in a picture already taken! I've been going out after reading key chapters in Steve's book to practice, exposure compensation, low light, depth of field, bracketing, shutter speed with geese, squirrels, etc. Found it to be very helpful.

 

[Jim G]

As many Members have said, Steve provides a wealth of information in his books! Being a “Analytical/Numbers Guy”, I was really intrigued by the Section on “Exposure Value (EV)” on pages 235-233 in “Secrets to Exposure and Metering for Nikon.” Steve often states that the more knowledgeable we have/understand about Focusing, Metering and Exposure, the more likely we are to be able to anticipate/predict what our settings should be!

After reading the above Section that referenced “Sunny 16”, I put the following two cards together (back/back) and laminated them. “Sunny 16” is also referenced on Page 494-495 in the same resource. With a quick look, I can visualize what I anticipate what my settings should be to get the desired out-come. After setting the camera accordingly and taking the picture, I can see how I did! Yes, I can look through the viewfinder in “Manual” mode and adjust my Shutter Speed, F/Stop by looking at the Exposure Meter to see if things are over/under exposed – but that is letting the camera think for me! Necessary adjustments can be made by changing Shutter Speed, F/Stop, or ISO or Exposure Compensation. From my experience, using the attached cards helps me to become better at proactively selecting my camera settings, rather than re-actively!

To provide an example, if one is taking a picture on a Sunny Bright Day using the Sunny 16 Rule of: ISO 100, 1/100, F/16, it becomes very easy to select from my options, utilizing the chart with the EV Values in “Yellow”. If the desired EV value is 15, I can select any combination of Shutter Speed, F/stop that totals 15.

*As an example, if I am shooting a BIF and want to shoot at 1/2000 of a second (EV=11), I can use F/Stop F 4 (EV=4) and adding the EV’s together, I have “15” with ISO 100. Take the picture and if an adjustment is needed, adjust SS or F/Stop by 1 stop or increase ISO by 1 stop (increases desired EV by +1) or Exposure Compensation accordingly.
*A second example – If I want to shoot a bird standing in a pond and want to prioritize/increase DOF, I can select F/8 (EV 6) and Shutter Speed 1/500 (EV=9), then Total: 15 @ ISO 100.
*A third example – if I want to do the second example picture “Just After Sunset (desired EV=10)”, I can select F/2.8 (EV=3), Shutter Speed 1/100 – closest to 1/120 (EV=7), then Total: 10 @ ISO 100
Note #1: Remember to increase EV by +1, for each stop you increase the ISO.
Note #2: The third picture - Steve had in his book on page 494-495 showing how to adjust, when one changes the ISO
As Steve states in his book, “That means, we can get to an EV of 15 using any of these reciprocal combos on a bright sunny day at ISO 100: 1/125th at F/16, 1/250th at F/11, 1/500th at F/8, 1/1000th at F/5.6, 1/2000th at F/4.”
Most of you may find this too basic based on your photography knowledge, but for someone who has had his eyes opened by Steve, I found it to be very helpful!View attachment 11018View attachment 11015View attachment 11016

I have fond memories of my first attempts at landscape composition. The advice that helped me the most was to use "sunny 16" with the hyperfocal distance. After setting the exposure in full manual mode at the lowest iso and at f/16, I then set the focal distance in manual operation to the appropriate hyperfocal distance. Then I was prepared to get within 5 feet or so to a foreground object (at 24mm) and compose the shot. Freed from being concerned with anything other than composition I was prepared to actually make some advances in my compositional ability. Of course I was in the Owen Valley, California near Bishop and it was summer so there was not a cloud in the sky.

JIM

 

[LL4D500]

I have fond memories of my first attempts at landscape composition. The advice that helped me the most was to use "sunny 16" with the hyperfocal distance. After setting the exposure in full manual mode at the lowest iso and at f/16, I then set the focal distance in manual operation to the appropriate hyperfocal distance. Then I was prepared to get within 5 feet or so to a foreground object (at 24mm) and compose the shot. Freed from being concerned with anything other than composition I was prepared to actually make some advances in my compositional ability. Of course I was in the Owen Valley, California near Bishop and it was summer so there was not a cloud in the sky.

JIM

Agree totally / starting to get hyperfocal figured out - it really helps gets a broader range of DOF in focus, like it!

 

[JD1]

I'm not sure if everyone or anyone will follow this, but here goes anyway. For me, I use a version of the F16 sunny rule always when I'm outside during the day. F16 Sunny says on a sunny day if your aperture is set to F16 (EV15) your ISO multiplied by your shutter speed should equal 1 to get the correct exposure. But like most bird photographers I'm rarely at f16. Mostly at f4 or f5.6. What is most important to your exposure after you have set an F stop is the relationship (Multiplier) between the shutter speed and the ISO. An example of a Sunny day exposure might also be F5.6, shutter 1/1600, ISO 200. The ISO times the shutter equals 1/8 (1/2x 1/2 x 1/2),( or said differently, the shutter denominator is 8 times the ISO, 1600 x 200) which is 3 stops less light. But you have let in 8 (2x2x2) times more light with your aperture by opening up by 3 stops. The opposite is true for an EV, 3 stops less light. Your ISO would be 8 times greater than the shutter denominator. Knowing a few common light levels like sunny ≈F16 (iso x shutter =1), thin cloud ≈F8 (iso x shutter =1), cloudy ≈F5.6 (iso x shutter =1). No charts required, just knowing a few factors of 2. Four stops has a multiplier of 16, 3 stops has a multiplier of 8, 2 stops has a multiplier of 4, and so on. Then you have control. And can make correct repeatable exposures, not relying on the not always correct meter in your camera. Knowing what your EV setting should be (and how to move your camera settings around to get that Exposure) in pressure situations (bride outside walking down the aisle backlit at 3 pm, Black howler in the canopy with just a slash of sunlight across his face at 2 pm, rare bird in flight with a cloudy sky). Sounds complicated, but once you spend some time with it, you will find it very easy. I went on a Costa Rica trip with Steve 2 years back, I was just starting to use full manual and now it is my main exposure mode.