Upgrade from D5600 to D500?

[Jon-A]

I typically like shooting landscape, animals running, macros and portraits but my D5600 has major problems focusing and I lose most pictures. I've tried all of the different AF modes on the D5600 with no luck and always find the picture blurred when I zoom in. I initially thought this was a lens issue so I bought a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art lens to use with it but still have the same AF issues. When it focuses, the photos look great but it misses most of the time. I've been considering upgrading to a new camera body. I really like the D850 but it's a bit too pricey for me since I'm just shooting as a hobby so the D500 looks really great. Would this be a good upgrade for what I want to use it for or do you have other suggestions?

Since both are DX's, I assume I can keep the Sigma lens and use that on the D500, that seems like it would be a good landscape/portrait lens (I think). I also have a AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens and a AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED lens but I typically just use the Sigma lens because it gives me better shots. Are these good lenses for what I want to do or do you have suggestions based on your experiences? I'm just trying to learn and build a good kit so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[DRwyoming]

I typically like shooting landscape, animals running, macros and portraits but my D5600 has major problems focusing and I lose most pictures. I've tried all of the different AF modes on the D5600 with no luck and always find the picture blurred when I zoom in. I initially thought this was a lens issue so I bought a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art lens to use with it but still have the same AF issues. When it focuses, the photos look great but it misses most of the time. I've been considering upgrading to a new camera body. I really like the D850 but it's a bit too pricey for me since I'm just shooting as a hobby so the D500 looks really great. Would this be a good upgrade for what I want to use it for or do you have other suggestions?

Since both are DX's, I assume I can keep the Sigma lens and use that on the D500, that seems like it would be a good landscape/portrait lens (I think). I also have a AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens and a AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED lens but I typically just use the Sigma lens because it gives me better shots. Are these good lenses for what I want to do or do you have suggestions based on your experiences? I'm just trying to learn and build a good kit so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Yeah, the D500 would be a substantial upgrade from an AF performance and shooting speed standpoint. And yes all of your existing D5600 lenses whether DX or FX will be compatible.

Those lenses are good, there are obviously higher end and more expensive options out there but what you have is a decent starting set.

 

[Rassie]

How is the focus when you photograph something that's not moving? Is the focus good or blurred?

 

[Jon-A]

How is the focus when you photograph something that's not moving? Is the focus good or blurred?

It depends but often blurred. I think that may have been my fault though and not understanding how aperture works so now I'm trying to read up more on it and use it properly. I ended up switching it to auto while I was trying to figure out what I was doing wrong and quickly learned that my original thinking of the lower the aperture the better was very wrong. I'm definitely still learning and need to work on how I adjust the settings for a given scenario but I assume it will come with time!

Also if anyone has any suggestions on lenses they love for the D500 (and the use) I'd love to hear them

 

[Warren D]

I was going to suggest that as far as AF and blur are concerned, it might be wise to do some testing to try to determine what is causing the problem. Best way to check the potential of the gear is to use a tripod and AF-S (single shot) while shooting a stationary target. Be mindful of what we call "atmospherics" aka heat waves as they will give you the sense that your shot is blurred. Ideally, I do tests indoors to try to avoid that type of issue.
The D500 has a better AF system for sure and it becomes a matter of the skill of the photographer to keep an af sensor on the proper part of the target. Perfect technique won't overcome those heat waves! As many years as I've been shooting (had a camera in my hand at 18 months which was 63 years ago) I've found the majority of the time, problems have been me.
I have a couple of Sigma lenses, an older 150 f2.8 OS macro, that is sharp as a razor but has never AF'd on much of anything in spite of being f2.8 and on a D5/D6. Even in the Nikon camp, some lenses af better than others.
Looking forward, if you plan on moving up to full frame at some point, I'd buy glass for that. That said, one of my most used lenses is the Nikon 24-120 f4 (be sure it's the f4, the earlier variable aperture version was a dog). Works equally well on FX and DX, maybe a little better on DX as the edges are out of frame. Would be 36-180 equivalent on DX and you already have the wide end covered.

 

[Warren D]

It depends but often blurred. I think that may have been my fault though and not understanding how aperture works so now I'm trying to read up more on it and use it properly. I ended up switching it to auto while I was trying to figure out what I was doing wrong and quickly learned that my original thinking of the lower the aperture the better was very wrong. I'm definitely still learning and need to work on how I adjust the settings for a given scenario but I assume it will come with time!

Also if anyone has any suggestions on lenses they love for the D500 (and the use) I'd love to hear them

Might be helpful to us to know what kind of shutter speeds you're using.

 

[Rassie]

The reason for my question about which kind of shots are blurred is because I'm worried that it may be your technique that is at fault and not the camera. All of Nikon's DSLR cameras are often more capable than what we give them credit for. The D5600 is a camera that should be able to make good pictures under the conditions you described, the majority of the time. I'm a firm believer that an upgrade is only justified if one's existing camera lacks a specific feature set that prevents one from getting the pictures you want.

For example, I would challenge anyone to make a significantly better landscape image with a D500 than with the D5600. Macro shots and portraits, same thing. You won't do better with a D500. As for running animals - the D5600 has a decent autofocus tracking system for that purpose and you should be able to get good shots tracking them most of the time. It's really only when tracking very fast action where the D500 is better. My wife managed to get very good bird in flight shots with her D3300, which is a less capable camera than your D5600.

You need to be very sure it's the camera that's at fault and not your technique before upgrading to a significantly more expensive D500. If your technique is faulty a more capable camera won't fix that and you'll be disappointed. The D500 is a pro-level camera for folks who know their needs and what capabilities they require in their cameras. Because my photography is a hobby I've never had the need for a pro body such as the D500. My D7500, significantly lower priced, is way good enough for my wildlife, portrait and landscape work. If I some day outgrow that body and it starts limiting my photography, only then will I upgrade to a mode advanced model.

You say you didn't know how aperture works, and that you had the camera set to Auto, that you're still learning and need to figure out which settings to use under specific conditions. It sounds to me you need to watch videos and read whatever is available to show you how best to set the camera for different scenarios. Steve Perry's instructional videos and e-books on this website is a great place to start.

Keep in mind that many of the basic features, capabilities and focus modes are the same between different Nikon camera bodies. Your D5600 is therefore an excellent tool with which to learn how to make great photos. I would stick with that body and become familiar with all its features and settings, together with learning all the adjustments and settings for various types of images. You should really be able to make great images with that camera. Once you find it lacks certain features you need, then look to an upgrade.

Lastly, I guess it's also possible that the camera may be faulty, but you should determine that for a fact before purchasing a different camera.

Edited to add: I looked at your posted pictures and I don't see anything that jumps out at me and indicates there is something wrong with the camera. It looks to me like you just need to become very familiar with the different set-up modes for different types of images. For the running dog, try single point AF-C or 9-point dynamic AF-C. Shutter speed near 1/1000 sec should be good. And make sure you're shooting in burst mode.

 

[Jon-A]

Might be helpful to us to know what kind of shutter speeds you're using.

Thank you so much for all of that advice!! That lens seems like it would be a great addition and I'll look into getting a used one. I typically shoot at higher shutter speeds (I shoot in the upper range if I'm shooting my dog but then I vary it for macros/landscapes). Most of the pictures I've taken have been the ~1-2 good ones from ~20-50 pictures. I assume it's my fault most of the time but I still feel like I have to take a lot to get the right pic and I miss a lot with my dog moving since it blurs most.

Google Photos

photos.google.com

Here's a still pic that was taken with the Sigma at 35mm, f/1.8 and shutter of 1/100

Google Photos

photos.google.com

Here's a moving pic that was taken with the Sigma at 35mm, f/1.8 and a shutter of 1/1250.

Thanks everyone!!

 

[Jon-A]

The reason for my question about which kind of shots are blurred is because I'm worried that it may be your technique that is at fault and not the camera. All of Nikon's DSLR cameras are often more capable than what we give them credit for. The D5600 is a camera that should be able to make good pictures under the conditions you described, the majority of the time. I'm a firm believer that an upgrade is only justified if one's existing camera lacks a specific feature set that prevents one from getting the pictures you want.

For example, I would challenge anyone to make a significantly better landscape image with a D500 than with the D5600. Macro shots and portraits, same thing. You won't do better with a D500. As for running animals - the D5600 has a decent autofocus tracking system for that purpose and you should be able to get good shots tracking them most of the time. It's really only when tracking very fast action where the D500 is better. My wife managed to get very good bird in flight shots with her D3300, which is a less capable camera than your D5600.

You need to be very sure it's the camera that's at fault and not your technique before upgrading to a significantly more expensive D500. If your technique is faulty a more capable camera won't fix that and you'll be disappointed. The D500 is a pro-level camera for folks who know their needs and what capabilities they require in their cameras. Because my photography is a hobby I've never had the need for a pro body such as the D500. My D7500, significantly lower priced, is way good enough for my wildlife, portrait and landscape work. If I some day outgrow that body and it starts limiting my photography, only then will I upgrade to a mode advanced model.

You say you didn't know how aperture works, and that you had the camera set to Auto, that you're still learning and need to figure out which settings to use under specific conditions. It sounds to me you need to watch videos and read whatever is available to show you how best to set the camera for different scenarios. Steve Perry's instructional videos and e-books on this website is a great place to start.

Keep in mind that many of the basic features, capabilities and focus modes are the same between different Nikon camera bodies. Your D5600 is therefore an excellent tool with which to learn how to make great photos. I would stick with that body and become familiar with all its features and settings, together with learning all the adjustments and settings for various types of images. You should really be able to make great images with that camera. Once you find it lacks certain features you need, then look to an upgrade.

Thank you so much Rassie, that's all really great advice!! I agree that it may be my technique and not the camera, and I haven't been shooting for too many years so it's definitely something I need to work on. It's not that I have a problem with getting good pictures, it's that I have trouble getting consistent good pictures and find that I need to take many pictures to get a single or a few good shots.

I've had trouble with the tracking on the D5600, again likely my fault, so I'll play with the settings and see if I can figure out where I messed up to set up the tracking properly. I find that it often doesn't lock onto my subject if coming head on, so it never has a chance to track. I've been playing around with the different tracking options within the D5600 and have trouble with the tracking locking on as the subject moves. It's good with focusing based on depth when the subject is still but doesn't consistently track it.

I have a general understanding with how the features work but I'm not gonna blame the camera and I'll assume it's my misunderstanding which is why I set it to auto in the moment. I typically chose the settings manually but when I can't figure out the issue I tend to assume the camera can do that better than I can. I'll definitely look into Steve's videos and e-books and actually came here after watching a series of his videos. I'll check out the books next and see how much more I can learn.

Thank you again for all of your advice, it really helps a lot!!

 

[Replytoken]

In addition to what @Rassie said, I would say that the D500 is going to introduce a lot more options and choices, and that may not be what you need right now as they are not necessarily going to make focusing any easier or better on their own. One of the best pieces of advice I received is that when things are not going as expected, slow everything down and be very deliberate in my actions. Working on a tripod does this very effectively, and the results tend to show. I am not suggesting that you use a tripod, but I do suggest taking some test shots (and changes some settings if need be) when you are not under pressure to "get the shot" and see if things get better. The D500 is a great camera, but it requires a lot of attention to get good results.

Good luck,

--Ken

 

[MartyD]

I went from a D70, to D300, couldn't wait for the D500 so used a D7100 for awhile before finally purchasing the D500. I shoot a lot of sports and love the D500, but I had success shooting with all of the other cameras as well.

Digital image files include shooting data to help you determine why the image may not have turned out like you expected. You can also see where the focus points were located at the shutter release. I don't think it is possible to tell if the focus was properly acquired at time of release but you know what focus points were used. It is helpful to be able to study an image and determine what may have been the issue. You can also compare the settings of your successful shots with your unsuccessful shots.

 

[dabhand16]

I have a general understanding with how the features work but I'm not gonna blame the camera and I'll assume it's my misunderstanding which is why I set it to auto in the moment. I typically chose the settings manually but when I can't figure out the issue I tend to assume the camera can do that better than I can.

If you at this stage try looking at Mike Browne's stuff on YouTube or his website:

Mike Browne - Photographer Trainer & Speaker

There's more to photography than just taking pictures...

www.photographycourses.biz

Good stuff here if you are just getting to grips with photography. Lots of free stuff and his courses won't break the bank. He does on-line and also workshops. details on his website.

 

[forestB]

I started with the D5500 and moved to the D500. Its was extremely hard for me to learn with D5500 always having to dive into a menu to change settings and the camera going to sleep if you don't push a button every couple seconds. In fact I still have the D5500 and have a hard time remembering how to change settings. I don't know if it is the same on the D5600 but one of the biggest challenges I had was that if I was reviewing an image on the back of the camera it would not auto focus until the image was closed. I cant tell you how many blurry pictures I ended up with because of this. The D500 will close the image automatically when autofocus is engaged. In my opinion my photos improved with the D500 because I didn't have to think as much. While the D500 has double the fame rate, quicker AF, and an endless buffer it doesn't take better pictures in fact is actually has 2.44 fewer megapixels. It just makes it easier to take nice pictures. As for the Sigma, I have the 50-100 F/1.8 Art lens and I believe it is pretty similar to the 18-35 in that it is super sharp when in focus which is whenever it feels like it! I have far better luck with my Nikon glass. I don't think any camera body will fix blurred pics but it did make it more fun for me.

 

[Replytoken]

I started with the D5500 and moved to the D500. Its was extremely hard for me to learn with D5500 always having to dive into a menu to change settings and the camera going to sleep if you don't push a button every couple seconds. In fact I still have the D5500 and have a hard time remembering how to change settings. I don't know if it is the same on the D5600 but one of the biggest challenges I had was that if I was reviewing an image on the back of the camera it would not auto focus until the image was closed. I cant tell you how many blurry pictures I ended up with because of this. The D500 will close the image automatically when autofocus is engaged. In my opinion my photos improved with the D500 because I didn't have to think as much. While the D500 has double the fame rate, quicker AF, and an endless buffer it doesn't take better pictures in fact is actually has 2.44 fewer megapixels. It just makes it easier to take nice pictures. As for the Sigma, I have the 50-100 F/1.8 Art lens and I believe it is pretty similar to the 18-35 in that it is super sharp when in focus which is whenever it feels like it! I have far better luck with my Nikon glass. I don't think any camera body will fix blurred pics but it did make it more fun for me.

Thom Hogan a piece about the Sigma f/1.8 zooms and the short of it is that they can only use the central focus points on the D500 body. This may explain some of the lens' focus challenges.

--Ken

 

[forestB]

Thom Hogan a piece about the Sigma f/1.8 zooms and the short of it is that they can only use the central focus points on the D500 body. This may explain some of the lens' focus challenges.

--Ken

That makes sense with my experiences. I definitely have a love hate relationship with mine but have to admit I knew about the focus issues when i bought it. A prime like DX zoom lens was to hard to pass up at he time.

 

[Sxot]

Thank you so much for all of that advice!! That lens seems like it would be a great addition and I'll look into getting a used one. I typically shoot at higher shutter speeds (I shoot in the upper range if I'm shooting my dog but then I vary it for macros/landscapes). Most of the pictures I've taken have been the ~1-2 good ones from ~20-50 pictures. I assume it's my fault most of the time but I still feel like I have to take a lot to get the right pic and I miss a lot with my dog moving since it blurs most.

Google Photos

photos.google.com

Here's a still pic that was taken with the Sigma at 35mm, f/1.8 and shutter of 1/100

Google Photos

photos.google.com

Here's a moving pic that was taken with the Sigma at 35mm, f/1.8 and a shutter of 1/1250.

Thanks everyone!!

The flower photo is a little soft, but at F1.8.... that doesn't suprise me. As a photo though, I think that is irrelevant and think it a top image. The dog looks sharp to me! If I were to make a suggestion it would be to try stopping the lens down a couple of F stops at least. Not always, but as a general rule you lose sharpness due to diffraction when a lens is wide open. Try it stopped down and see if that helps.

 

[Replytoken]

Not always, but as a general rule you lose sharpness due to diffraction when a lens is wide open.

Lenses are usually not their sharpest when wide open, although there are a few exceptions, but diffraction occurs when a lens has been stopped down beyond its sweet spot and near its minimum aperture.

--Ken

 

[James C.]

Jon-A:

I was recently in your situation.

After years of being out of serious photography (and those were in the days of FILM), I decided to get back into it and in the summer of 2019, I duplicated my old film kit with digital, and the camera that I bought was a Nikon D5600 and an 18-300mm f/3.5 lens. By the fall I added a Nikkor 200-500mm lens. This past summer, I joined another online wildlife photography group and entered a bird photography contest. I found myself growing increasingly frustrated by the 5 frames per second (fps), and the somewhat slow autofocus. I was missing a lot of shots, particularly of birds in flight (BIF) with the D5600. I was originally considering upgrading to either the Nikon D7200, D7500, D500, or the D850. After getting a lot of input from members of the group, reading a lot of reviews, and watching some of Steve Perry's YouTube videos, I decided on the D500. I've had it about 7 weeks now and I have NOT regretted it!

The D500, being a crop-sensor camera, gives me that 1.5 times (x) factor that gives my 200-500mm lens a 750mm reach, which I find invaluable. Yes, it is only 20.9 MP vs. the 24MP of the D5600, but you're not going to notice that at all.

The fact that I can now get 10 fps has made a HUGE difference in the number of "keeper" shots that I have of birds, especially BIF. You need to have a fairly fast SD card to get 10 fps, but I used the 250MB/s SD cards that I'd been using in my D5600 and was getting that speed (although I did upgrade to 300MB/s SD cards to make sure I was in a "faster zone."). You can also use the even faster XQD card (avg. 400MB/s speed) and/or an SD card at the same time. With the 200-shot buffer in this camera you can shoot like crazy and still be unlikely to have the camera choke. You can also (in the menus) tell the camera to use either card separately or, if you have both an XQD card AND an SD card in at the same time, have the camera use the XQD as the primary, and immediately backup the photos to the SD card. The caveat for me here was that XQD cards are more expensive, AND you'll need to buy an XQD card reader to download your photos to your computer. My iMac has a built-in SDXC card reader, so for now, I'm keeping things simple and just using SD cards.

I've also noticed that I get better low light shots with the D500. I tend to shoot in the late afternoon near sunset when the birds are getting ready to roost for the night and there's a fair amount of bird activity. I was amazed at some of my shots when I was losing the light. Much better illumination than I had expected, and much better than the D5600 had given me!

One drawback has been that the D5600 weighs one pound and the D500 weighs TWO pounds. Couple that with the 5.1 pounds of the 200-500mm lens and that's over 7 pounds of weight around my neck, and it can be a challenge whipping all of that weight around when I'm trying to catch a raptor (or any bird) that just flew in out of nowhere, and get the camera up, sighted on the subject, autofocused (I use back button focusing, by the way), and then get off a couple of bursts of shots! I'm getting better at it, but it is a skill that one must work at.

BOTTOM LINE: I love my D500 and I am VERY glad that I got it.
• It is $1,000 less than the D850 (which was my runner-up),
• the crop factor gives me the reach I need,
• 10 fps means I'll get more keeper shots,
• I have two memory card options, and a 200-shot buffer,
• and it feels more substantial in my hand than the D5600.

I hope this helps.

And before I forget, assuming your shooting technique is good but you still have shots that are somewhat soft or noisy, I would highly recommend Topaz Labs' Topaz DeNoise AI (that's A-eye), and/or Sharpen AI. I think they even offer a free trial. DEFINITELY worth the investment for tweaking the crispness of your shots!

 

[Yellowboard]

Which autofocus are you using? AF-S or AF-C? I've found it best to set it to AF-C (continuous focus) and leave it no matter what type of photographs I'm taking. This setting is a must for focus tracking objects in motion; side to side, coming at you, or moving away. Also, if your camera is not set up for back button focusing I would suggest that you watch one of Steve's videos on that topic, set up your camera and give it a try and see if you notice different results. As an aside, the D500 has many many many features that will need to be set up by the photographer (you) for it to perform as you like it to and produce the results you yearn for. The D5600 only has many, many features (one less many) to set up but in either case one needs to understand how these features work and which ones to activate (or not) for the type of photography one does.

 

[joe43]

I also use AF-C all the time, in S, D9, D 21 etc. I do not think I have taken a shot in AF-S in years.

In working with other photographers I always emphsize one technique that is super important for getting consistently in focus images. You need to move that focus square so it is right on the spot that you want in focus. The D 500 and D 850 have two ways to do this on the back of the camera. The joy stick is so much easier to use than the "wheel" . My keeper rate increased dramatically once I got my D 500 with the joy stick. And I use the AF ON button to focus, not the shutter release button.

11 Things You Need to Know About the New Nikon D500

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