Use of UV Filters

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The question is are they any good with todays DSLRS.And the ND Filters I have been advised to buy a 10 stop and to be honest forgive me being a dummy Novice would appreciate advice thankyou
 
Your gonna be likely to get a mixed bag of opinions on this subject.

I never use UV filters and never any problems without them.

10 stop Neutral Density filters are used primarily for long exposures when doing still photos. They could also be useful for slower shutter speeds when shooting video, but a variable ND of about 2-8 stops is more flexible for exposure adjustments when shooting video.

I seem to recall Steve did a video testing UV filters. I believe his executive summary was they're potentially useful primarily if you photograph in very dusty/dirty conditions.
 
I'll second the response above, I don't really use UV filters much these days. My most used filter is the Circular Polarizer to remove glare and reflections off wet surfaces like autumn leaves which helps bring out color. I do carry an 8 stop ND grad but about all I use it for is motion blur images in daylight conditions where I don't want to stop the lens all the way down and also need fairly long exposures for the desired motion blur. Personally this gets used mostly for waterfalls or running streams where I want silky blurred water. If the light levels are low, for instance twilight or a heavily overcast day the ND filter isn't really needed most of the time but it's handy when I need to combine slow shutter speeds and modest apertures with bright light conditions.
 
Hello,

I use UV filters on almost all my lenses. You've pros and cons.
Even if I use only high quality ones, you've a degradation and I use them for protection only.

But I think next time I bye a new lenses, I'll not get one on it. It's very expensive to get a really good one so I'll not do it anymore.

Regarding the ND filters, I've a ND 3 stops and a 6 stops. It's good enough for me. 10 stops is really dark and you need specific conditions to use it that are not mine.

Laurent.
 
The question is are they any good with todays DSLRS.And the ND Filters I have been advised to buy a 10 stop and to be honest forgive me being a dummy Novice would appreciate advice thankyou
As noted above, it's really a personal choice. I use them most of the time. I prefer B+W. I have a Sigma WP on one of my lenses. Even though the B+W are expensive, I have broken one and scratched one and have found them less expensive to replace than the front element of a quality lens. I've not been able to see any difference in image quality. Sometimes if the sun is in just the right (wrong) position there can be an increased chance of lens flare but, to be perfectly honest, I haven't had it happen more than once or twice. Like most everyone here, I'm a wildlife and nature photographer which means I shoot in hot, dry, wet, cold, dusty, windy, calm, sunny, cloudy, pollen-filled, conditions sometimes all of these on the same day. I do not abuse my camera equipment; however, it does get used out in the same (sometimes dismal) conditions that I'm shooting.

Again, I think the choice is yours and if you get good ones, I doubt you will see any noticeable degradation in image quality. Some lenses cannot have a filter attached to the front element (extreme wide angles and the big fast primes like the 600 f4).

I have nothing to add with ND filters. I rarely use them. Quite the opposite, I'm usually hoping for more light.

Best wishes on your quest. Hope the comments here will help you.
 
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I'll second the response above, I don't really use UV filters much these days. My most used filter is the Circular Polarizer to remove glare and reflections off wet surfaces like autumn leaves which helps bring out color. I do carry an 8 stop ND grad but about all I use it for is motion blur images in daylight conditions where I don't want to stop the lens all the way down and also need fairly long exposures for the desired motion blur. Personally this gets used mostly for waterfalls or running streams where I want silky blurred water. If the light levels are low, for instance twilight or a heavily overcast day the ND filter isn't really needed most of the time but it's handy when I need to combine slow shutter speeds and modest apertures with bright light conditions.

My sentiments exactly. I haven't had a UV filter on a lens for more than 20 years but do carry a polarizer and variable ND filter. The polarizer is used primarily for waterfalls and other water-themed photos; the ND has only been used a few times and I doubt I'd even make the purchase again.
 
My opinions are mostly identical to what has been said. I have a UV filter on my 24-70mm because it is the most likely to be in a situation where it is touched by a dogs nose, kids hand, get splashed or some other odd scenario and I can unscrew the dirty filter faster than cleaning the lens if I need to get a quick shot. I don’t really use them on any other lens; unless it may be subjected to the same scenario above. I also rarely use ND, unless I’m trying to show motion in water. I have two from Hoya which are decent quality and work perfect for my needs. One is around 4 stop and one around 9 stop I think. I also have two gradient ND filters from Singh Ray which are good quality and used in some landscape situations where there is a big variation between bright sky and dark landscape. You can bracket and HDR for similar effect, but I like to have the image as close to possible in camera. All of these ND filters options would also be a wait to see if you would use them, unless you know you are going to be shooting waterfalls/streams. A circular polarizer would be the one I’d recommend getting. It can be useful for many types of photography. With the CPL, I’d get a good quality one that has a minimum impact on light coming in. This way it can be used without reducing shutter speeds if used on wildlife. Also, buying it in the largest size you need and using step up rings for the smaller lenses saves money.
 
I haven't used UV filters since the film days, they were needed for Ektachrome but digital sensors are well controlled for UV and IR. As for ND's I switched to Breakthrough ND's and CPOL's a few years back. They are by far the most color-neutral you can buy. Second to that was Hoya, my B+W ND has a nasty color cast. Promaster is the worst of the ND's that I have seen, the color cast is so strong you can't process it out.
 
Digital cameras are sensitive to a very small part of the UV spectrum. Not enough to worry about unless you are shooting landscapes at high altitude, and even then I doubt your eyes would see the difference.

Using a filter for lens protection is a personal choice. Some say never, some say only if you are in a particular situation where your lens needs protecting, like around the steaming mudpots at Yellowstone. For protection you can use a clear filter or a UV it doesn't matter. Just make sure to get an expensive one. The cheap ones transmit a lot less light. This is an aging analysis of the amount of light each brand transmits, but you get the idea of which brands are quality. https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/20...anking-of-the-major-uv-filters-on-the-market/
 
I don't use UV filters, but I do use Clear filters if I'm going to be in an area that has blowing sand, dust, etc. I live on the coast and even on a good day we'll have at least a 10 mph "breeze". My favorite spot is the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge here in MA. I don't like aiming my camera towards the sea without a clear filter on. For ND filters I have a 3, 6, and 10 stop all from Formatt Hitech, and I use the round ones.
 
I agree with everything said above. But I think you need to rewind and notch or two. Read up on neutral density filters, then fully understand what a stop of light is and how effects your image and camera settings, then you will understand advice like "get a 10 stop ND filter" is crackers for a novice. As for UV filters, keep your lens hood on this will do a better job of protecting your front element from impact.
 
I agree with everything said above. But I think you need to rewind and notch or two. Read up on neutral density filters, then fully understand what a stop of light is and how effects your image and camera settings, then you will understand advice like "get a 10 stop ND filter" is crackers for a novice. As for UV filters, keep your lens hood on this will do a better job of protecting your front element from impact.
Depends on the impact. Doesn't work with a stick. DAMHIKT.
 
Depends on the impact. Doesn't work with a stick. DAMHIKT.

Tony Northup's YouTube channel tested this some time ago. In the video he deliberately jabbed an object hard multiple times into the front element of a lens and then took some images. There was no noticeable affect to the images he took. His take-away was scratches on front element of a camera lens generally are so out of focus as to make little or no substantial difference to image.
 
Tony Northup's YouTube channel tested this some time ago. In the video he deliberately jabbed an object hard multiple times into the front element of a lens and then took some images. There was no noticeable affect to the images he took. His take-away was scratches on front element of a camera lens generally are so out of focus as to make little or no substantial difference to image.
Yes, well I mentioned it because there was damage to the coating - from one contact with a stick that protruded into a 75mm deep hood - and that will cost me a bundle at sale time.
 
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