Which lens choice to increase my range?

[SCoombs]

Most of this is learned by doing. There are so many variables......the background, the particular animal and its tolerance to sound, movement, etc. And the time of day, lighting, etc, etc. Tons of analysis doesn't necessarily translate to success in the actual environment.

Think of learning to ride a bike. Some can give general directions, but the person on the bike has to figure out how to balance, pedal, and steer!

Doing is essential in learning anything, but it helps a whole lot to know what you're trying to do. I bet I could find a hundred videos and articles on how to ride a bike. Nobody is ever going to learn to ride just by reading or watching these- they need to go out and get the sense of balance, see what works for their particular body, etc., and some people will learn to ride without any outside input or advice just from getting on the bike and trying, but having taught several kids how I think it's clear that people will usually learn most easily by having someone give instruction so that they know what to try to do when they get on that bike for the learning experience.

In other words, I fully expect people to need to get a lot of their wildlife photography fieldcradt from hands on experience, but I also think there's almost nothing out there to help anyone even know where to start.

 

[Cameron T]

Doing is essential in learning anything, but it helps a whole lot to know what you're trying to do. I bet I could find a hundred videos and articles on how to ride a bike. Nobody is ever going to learn to ride just by reading or watching these- they need to go out and get the sense of balance, see what works for their particular body, etc., and some people will learn to ride without any outside input or advice just from getting on the bike and trying, but having taught several kids how I think it's clear that people will usually learn most easily by having someone give instruction so that they know what to try to do when they get on that bike for the learning experience.

In other words, I fully expect people to need to get a lot of their wildlife photography fieldcradt from hands on experience, but I also think there's almost nothing out there to help anyone even know where to start.

Hunters use the same techniques, and any of their resources is a good starting point.

In general, it tends to be "don't look/act like a person, be a rock, or a bush". Overly simplified, but good advice differs by region heavily (as well as what you're trying to see).

 

[BLev65]

I think there's truth to this, and yet unless I've missed it I've found very, very little out there in terms of advice or education on stuff in the field. Everything seems to concern technical camera operations, choices about composition and use of lighting (which presuppose good fieldcraft), or the most basic or surface level aspects of field craft like, "don't scare the animal."

For instance, there's a ton of stuff out there talking about the importance or "primacy" of backgrounds, what makes for a good background, and technical considerations for getting a good background (e.g., go to eye level), but I've found almost nothing about how to actually get in a position where you can get the background you want and get to eye level without the subject spooking and running off.

I can offer you a few tips, but these apply to me regionally...
1. I'd suggest that you spend some time defining how far you are willing to drive on a regular basis to make your photographs. Draw a circle of that distance from your home and identify all the areas of public land, state park, refuges, water access, etc... Then find the roads that give you access to these spots. My range is 25 miles each way. I am willing, on a whim, to drive 25 miles early enough in the morning to get to a location by sunrise. Knowing these parameters will help you to time your shooting period. As someone who was an AP Biology teacher for many decades, time was extremely limited for me. I could shoot weekend mornings and when school was out, and that was it. As a result, I learned to be efficient with my time.
2. Scout those areas only during the time periods that you will be shooting. Bring binoculars and scout areas that you think would be great for wildlife landscapes as well as tighter work. Record the type of wildlife you see, the location of wildlife trails, and the location of lakes and ponds. For example... for the last three years, I learned that an albino doe always went to the same pond during a 3 week period two times a year. She appeared at the pond about an hour before sunset and left as the sun was setting. I never see her any other times of the year, but for three years running I have photographed her. This type of legwork pays off, but it takes time to bear fruit.
3. Find a hike that you can take that leads you to a place with potentially rich wildlife. I found a beaver pond in a state park that is 20 miles from my home. It is a pain for me to get on location, but I am committed to this spot. I have to hike up hill and downhilll to get to the spot (3/4 mile each way). I've learned that I need to be there before the sun crests the horizon, that I need to sit below the dam, and that I will likely scare the beavers away when I hike in. However, I have learned that if I wait 45 minutes, the beavers will leave the den and that I can get a good hour of photography with them. My work at this beaver lodge began in 2014 and continues today. Even as a full time teacher, I manage to visit the lodge 4 to 6 times a week in May, June, September, and October because I have learned that these are the best time for me to photograph at this location. My persistence has led to much more than beaver photography, as my best images of river otters, muskrat, and beavers and deer have occurred here. In addition, I have photographed swans, geese, grebes, multple duck species, warblers, thrush, and white tailed deer from where I photograph the beavers. These images were made from only two locations on the site. It takes years, but you can create opportunities for yourself with patience.
4. Find a friend... Find a photo friend who you can learn with, trade locations, and develop skills. I am a crappy birder but a decent photographer. One of my closest friends is a birder who is talented at calling birds in... I've taught him photo technique and he has helped me to fill out my warbler and sparrow files.
5. Get on the water... Invest in a stable canoe or kayak and bring your camera and lens on the water with you. I know it sounds scary to bring your expensive gear in a canoe, but it pays dividends. I shoot from the water all of the time. Species like loons, grebes, mergansers, herons, pelicans, sea otters, and seals are less fearful of you when you are on the water. They will often get close (sometimes too close for photography). This will also lower your angle and allow you to have better backgrounds. I absolutely love shooting from a kayak or canoe.
6. Find a farmer friend who will allow you to set up a blind on their land. If you can set up a temporary blind near water or wildlife trail and be in the blind before sunrise, it will payoff. The key is to be persistent and accept that some days will be winners and some will be losers.
7. Find the sure things... they exist. These will be your special trips... For example, I photograph prairie chickens during Easter Weekend. This species is visible from blinds set up by the nature conservancy. I have to make reservations and the price is a donation. I make this into a 36 hour photo-weekend. It requires a 4.5 hour drive, night camping or lodging, and 4:00 am wake up. I am then treated to about 4 hours of amazing photography. During these times, I develop my skill as an ecologist to learn about the bird and its behavior. I now can tell when a female is around, when the birds will fly, and when they will fight. I always walk away with interesting photos.

Field craft is the hardest part about being a wildlife photographer, but you will grow as a photographer in a way that equipment will never help you grow.
cheers,
bruce

 

[Chappy]

As others have said i think the fieldcraft is very regional. Animals don't a ct the same in this prairie/desert as they do in places where there is more water, trees or even forests. As a farmer and a former hunter I am able to observe more than most. For example, I have never used a blind when shooting near a stockpond. I wear camo clothing and get in the trees and brush to shoot and I am very still. I learned this a long time ago when hunting for dove. If that dove sees you as he is flying toward you he is going to turn but if you can wear clothing that matches the terrain he will not see you and fly right over you. With Sandhill Cranes, don't stand or even sit, lay down as they can see and look for your shadow.

Some of these things are learned and then you do them as second nature. I was with a friend yesterday who has been and avid birder for at least 40 years. He is a wildlife biologist who retired from Texas Parks and Wildlife a couple of years ago. He has wrote several books on identifying birds in Texas. Anyway, I was watching him as he was at his fathers home where there are large pecan and oak trees surrounded by Cotton fields. It was a learning experience as I watched how close he would walk under the trees to get closer to some birds while others he moved much more stealthier. He carried his binoculars as well as his camera with a long zoom lens.

I also try and drive the same routes around the pastures of the oil field as you learn the paths, burrows and nesting sights. I know for example where the trails thru the cotton fields that the coyotes use. I also know the direction where the sun will be and direction of the wind to know where to be if I am trying to get a picture of a coyote coming down that path.

When I go to a wooded area or the mountains I feel completely lost when trying to photograph wildlife. I am out of my element. However, I still keep my ears open and watch for animal paths as I know if I am patient i will generally see something I probably haven't seen before.

I also keep my eyes open when driving thru the farms or the pastures. I have actually took people on tours on the farm and in the pastures. Of course I take them to the sure fire places but while driving I have them keep their eyes open and watch all around and not just in the front windshield. Most of the time, I see the wildlife before they ever do. Just something my dad taught me and I have continued to do.

 

[JooC]

I haven’t had a chance to read through all the replies. But I did want to comment on the Sigma 60-600 F mount. I use this on my Z9 for daytime youth soccer primarily, but I do also use it for birding when I can. I use the Sigma TC-1401 1.4X TC with the 60-600 at times. I haven’t had much of an issue with this combo.

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[Chappy]

Well, I shouldn't have posted about the used lenses. Now I'm getting emails and adds on social media for used 70-200 G and E models........... There listening to every key stroke...................KEH listed a used F in excellent + condition for $1509

 

[leoparker]

Lenses are essential pieces of gear, but choosing the right one can be difficult. I explain the different types and how to choose the best one for you.

 

[DavidT]

If range is your issue I’d focus on a long prime then a super zoom. Seems to me you’ll be shooting at the top end anyway. Also have you considered a pop up blind? Camo clothing? Paying attention to the wind to help with smells. Getting set up before sunlight.

Basically employ all the things hunters do to get closer to their subjects. I’d suggest a mirrorless camera in silent mode as well.

These are all things I do to get closer to subjects. I live in TX so not shooting images of critters that are in a park and used to people. It can be done but takes some planning.

 

[headhertz]

I have gone out earlier a fair bit but unfortunately have found that at the locations I have been familiar with thus far a problem is that the wildlife is more skittish earlier in the morning than later in the day. I've not found it to be in greater abundance earlier where I've been - another reason I need to somehow find better spots to try - and however close I can get at 10AM or 3 PM, I can get about 4 times less close at 6 or 7 or 8AM.

I may have an idea how that could be true. Does your laundry detergent -- or any other part of your laundry process -- include brighteners?

There is a claim among hunters that animals are sensitive to different wavelengths of light than we are, and some are said to see ultraviolet glow in the dark. Once the sun comes up, the other wavelengths are believed to overwhelm this effect and so the glowing is diminished.

Maybe that claim comes from makers of specialty laundry soap but I anecdotally observed this recently after accidentally washing my camouflage in laundry soap with brighteners.