White subjects, dark backgrounds and avoiding blown-out whites

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cchuck

cchuck

ChuckCarlson
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Steve's book, Secrets to Exposure and Metering for Nikon, is a great place to start. What I'm hoping for slightly different -- guidance targeted to Exp. Comp. settings when using Manual, Matrix Metering, Auto ISO. Although trial-and-error methods eventually get it right, sometimes we get only one chance and I'm hoping for a system that gets us closer in those cases. Sony users have "zebras" to help get good exposures with this mode of shooting. Nikon users need to take a couple more steps. Arthur Morris developed a system back in the film days that was referenced here at BCG over 4 years ago <https://bcgforums.com/threads/white...-the-best-solution-to-burned-out-whites.3499/> . I used that system with my digital Canon gear up through 5D Mk4 when I switched to Nikon and found it didn't work well with Nikon. If we post enough images with EXIF info (Shutter, aperture, ISO, Exp. Comp) we might see some patterns that will make challenging exposures less problematic. Here's my first contribution.

Feather detail on parts of the top of the egret were blown out, so my EV of -1 came up short. Maybe -1.3 or -1.7 would have been right and I think it's possible to come closer than I did. That egret didn't respond to my "Hey, do that again." Knocking Highlights back -40 in LRC only helped some. In the uncropped frame, the bird covered about 20% and the dark background was uniformly dark over the remaining 80%.

54000411445_14c9f3f6c1_k.jpg


Nikon Z8, 800PF (f/7.1, 1/3200, ISO 280, EV -1)
 
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Nice! A lot depends on the natural light in which you are shooting, as well as the temperature. I have shot 1000's of white herons, we have four mostly white species, and normally, an EV of -0.7 to -1.5 will get the whites right. You can never get all the whites right all the time, that is just the nature of the way the camera process the image. If you are in ACR, pulling the contrast to the left allows you to play better with the black and white slider. Colin Smith of Photoshop Cafe has a video on this.
Furthermore, on Photoshop, you cane use Curves and masking and brighten or darken the image just the way you need to to get the exposure right.
 
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Thank you, Callie! The Egret image came out fair, except for the lost detail on the top and leading edge of the wings. Your experience with white subjects and dark backgrounds gives you special insight into the settings that will preserve detail. I'll search this site for your white bird images. Regarding the natural light we shoot in, our "golden hour" here at 43.88 N lasts longer but it's also dimmer.
 
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It seems to me with modern cameras being iso invariant above 800 or so one doesn't have to be that accurate, as long as the whites are well below climbing the right wall then it makes no difference within reason if we brighten in post or in camera.
 
One thing I do with my Canon is to set for a 2 second preview. But the preview doesn't display until i release the focus button. So I can shoot as many bursts as I want without interruption as long as I hold the bbf. To check bkinkies I release to see the 2 second preview.
 
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