Why is aperture backwards??

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

So, I get that larger f numbers like f/22 actually mean that it's a smaller opening and that smaller f number like f/2 is a big opening. I learned that thanks to a really helpful beginner video I just watched -
. But my question is this...WHY is the size of the aperture backwards from the numbers. Shouldn't f/22 be a big aperture since it's a big number and f/2 should be a small aperture since it's a small number???
 
Good question. A 100mm lens with an aperture 100mm in diameter would be f1. The same lens with an aperture of 50mm would be f2, and an aperture of 25mm would be f4. So maybe think of f number as the ratio of the focal length to the size of the opening.

Since the formula for the area of a circle has a power of 2 in it, each doubling of the f number is 1/4 the light. To go in single stops instead just remember 1 and 1.4, then keep doubling each from there: 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8,11, 16,22.....
 
As posted above it comes from physics and the basic definition of f ratio. Photography leveraged that definition but basic optics as a branch of physics defined it as the ratio of focal length to lens(or more specifically, exit pupil) diameter.
 
You made me watch the video. Much too jaunty for me. The only actual error I saw was his saying that ISO controls the sensor's sensitivity to light. Not exactly true, since the sensor has only one sensitivity no matter what ISO is used. It's a common shorthand people use though. Better to think of ISO as 'gain' added to the exposure to make the image brighter.
 
You made me watch the video. Much too jaunty for me. The only actual error I saw was his saying that ISO controls the sensor's sensitivity to light. Not exactly true, since the sensor has only one sensitivity no matter what ISO is used. It's a common shorthand people use though. Better to think of ISO as 'gain' added to the exposure to make the image brighter.
In the old times we used to think that a film of 400 ASA was two times as sensible as one of 200 ASA (ISO)
I continued "thinking" of this kind of sensitivity without giving much thought to what is really happening in the camera. For taking photographs, I think that the result is the same
Makes my life easier :)
 
In the old times we used to think that a film of 400 ASA was two times as sensible as one of 200 ASA (ISO)
I continued "thinking" of this kind of sensitivity without giving much thought to what is really happening in the camera. For taking photographs, I think that the result is the same
Makes my life easier :)

Still, the original poster should be told factual information in a video from someone presenting as an expert. Why perpetuate a myth? Perhaps some films actually were more sensitive to light, a fact maybe reflected in their ISO number, but sensors don't get more sensitive when the ISO is cranked up.
 
Still, the original poster should be told factual information in a video from someone presenting as an expert. Why perpetuate a myth? Perhaps some films actually were more sensitive to light, a fact maybe reflected in their ISO number, but sensors don't get more sensitive when the ISO is cranked up.
Easy answer is forget the why (ignore the math) and simply remember that when it comes to F stops, small number equals big hole/more light (and shallower depth of field).
 
I never think about it. I just look at an "f-stop" as referring to depth-of-field. If I want a shallow depth-of-field I use a small f-stop. If I want a larger depth-of-field I use a larger f-stop. I find it much easier than thinking about why the numbering scheme is set this way.
 
Still, the original poster should be told factual information in a video from someone presenting as an expert. Why perpetuate a myth? Perhaps some films actually were more sensitive to light, a fact maybe reflected in their ISO number, but sensors don't get more sensitive when the ISO is cranked up.
Of course you're right. I only wanted to stress that some kind of knowledge is unnecessary in the practice, perhaps even confusing, depending on your purpose
I for example understand the mechanics of a car. My wife doesn't.
Still, she's the better driver :)
 

Scroll down to graphic under 'INFLUENCE OF LENS APERTURE OR F-NUMBER' showing how the area of the aperture changes by a proportional amount (eg 2x or 4x more / less light). Changing the aperture by 1 f-stop doubles/halves light transmitted through the lens - by the same amount - whether the lens is a Ultra-wide or a Telephoto.

For the respective lens, the settings for the aperture blades are calibrated to this scale that uses set values of the ratio of aperture to focal-length.... The table lower down compares how much light is transmitted by maximum apertures ie faster vs slower lenses. We exploit these interrelated standard setting to control illumination off any scene in the well known Exposure Triangle. Thus, thanks be to these fixed ratios [called f-stops] we have a comparable index of how much light is reaching the sensor independent of differences in the focal length of lenses etc

The corollary is Shutter speed is adjusted by halving/increasing the light illuminating the sensor ie 1/500 > 1/1000 halves the light, or one can change aperture from f2 > f2.8 to half the light to keep the shutter set at 1/500. In summary, this method is essential to compare, replicate and report how much light was controlled by the lens (and/or shutter and sensor) using a standardized scale.

Note, to be more pedantic 1 Stop is universally referred to as 1 EV, Exposure Value, where the EV reading can be changed using either set increments of Aperture or Shutter Speed or ISO. Typically an EV is compared at a designated ISO for different combo's of aperture/shutter settings - and knowing Absolute EV is useful for comparing Equivalent settings if using a light-meter eg EV 0.0 is defined as f/1.0 and 1 second at ISO100, with Equivalent settings of f1.4 and 2sec, or f2 and 4sec etc. Without getting too much deeper into exposure and different imaging devices, we can also compare the Dynamic Range of a sensor using EV or f-Stops as a standard of their overall performance range: https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm

Here's a more detailed explanation why all this matters especially for movies, and also the underlying mathematics: https://www.scantips.com/lights/evchart.html

And an easy back-envelope method to remember the F-stop scale -

So, I get that larger f numbers like f/22 actually mean that it's a smaller opening and that smaller f number like f/2 is a big opening. I learned that thanks to a really helpful beginner video I just watched -
. But my question is this...WHY is the size of the aperture backwards from the numbers. Shouldn't f/22 be a big aperture since it's a big number and f/2 should be a small aperture since it's a small number???
 
Last edited:
Of course you're right. I only wanted to stress that some kind of knowledge is unnecessary in the practice, perhaps even confusing, depending on your purpose
I for example understand the mechanics of a car. My wife doesn't.
Still, she's the better driver :)
Of course you're right. I only wanted to stress that some kind of knowledge is unnecessary in the practice, perhaps even confusing, depending on your purpose
I for example understand the mechanics of a car. My wife doesn't.
Still, she's the better driver :)

Steve has a good video and an article on the topic.


 
Last edited:

Scroll down to graphic under 'INFLUENCE OF LENS APERTURE OR F-NUMBER' showing how the area of the aperture changes by a proportional amount (eg 2x or 4x more / less light). Changing the aperture by 1 f-stop doubles/halves light transmitted through the lens - by the same amount - whether the lens is a Ultra-wide or a Telephoto.

For the respective lens, the settings for the aperture blades are calibrated to this scale that uses set values of the ratio of aperture to focal-length.... The table lower down compares how much light is transmitted by maximum apertures ie faster vs slower lenses. We exploit these interrelated standard setting to control illumination off any scene in the well known Exposure Triangle. Thus, thanks be to these fixed ratios [called f-stops] we have a comparable index of how much light is reaching the sensor independent of differences in the focal length of lenses etc

The corollary is Shutter speed is adjusted by halving/increasing the light illuminating the sensor ie 1/500 > 1/1000 halves the light, or one can change aperture from f2 > f2.8 to half the light to keep the shutter set at 1/500. In summary, this method is essential to compare, replicate and report how much light was controlled by the lens (and/or shutter and sensor) using a standardized scale.

Note, to be more pedantic 1 Stop is universally referred to as 1 EV, Exposure Value, where the EV reading can be changed using either set increments of Aperture or Shutter Speed or ISO. Typically an EV is compared at a designated ISO for different combo's of aperture/shutter settings - and knowing Absolute EV is useful for comparing Equivalent settings if using a light-meter eg EV 0.0 is defined as f/1.0 and 1 second at ISO100, with Equivalent settings of f1.4 and 2sec, or f2 and 4sec etc. Without getting too much deeper into exposure and different imaging devices, we can also compare the Dynamic Range of a sensor using EV or f-Stops as a standard of their overall performance range: https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dynamic-range.htm

Here's a more detailed explanation why all this matters especially for movies, and also the underlying mathematics: https://www.scantips.com/lights/evchart.html

And an easy back-envelope method to remember the F-stop scale -
thanks for your kinds information
 
Of course you're right. I only wanted to stress that some kind of knowledge is unnecessary in the practice, perhaps even confusing, depending on your purpose
I for example understand the mechanics of a car. My wife doesn't.
Still, she's the better driver :)
It's the other way round in my house! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
Still, the original poster should be told factual information in a video from someone presenting as an expert. Why perpetuate a myth? Perhaps some films actually were more sensitive to light, a fact maybe reflected in their ISO number, but sensors don't get more sensitive when the ISO is cranked up.
This is actually a tricky subject. It turns out the ISO standard for digital cameras (12232:2019) does not even mention sensors at all. It's all about the "sensitivity" of the camera as a whole, where the camera is treated as a black box--internals irrelevant--that takes in a measured amount of light and outputs a final digital photographic image (JPG, TIFF, HEIC, etc, but not raw, because raw files are not final images).

So really the standard just provides a uniform way to correlate the amount of light collected by the camera after it passes through the lens and shutter, as measured in lux-seconds, to certain specific characteristics of the final digital image output by the camera.

It also gives camera makers three entirely separate ways to specify their camera sensitivities: ISO Speed, SOS, or REI. These are all defined differently, measured differently, and don't necessarily result in the same ISO numbers. Heck, even the first one, "ISO speed", has three entirely different ways it can be measured, and none of the methods of measuring "ISO Speed" need to produce ISO numbers consistent with the other two ways of measuring it.

It really is a mess.
 
This is actually a tricky subject. It turns out the ISO standard for digital cameras (12232:2019) does not even mention sensors at all. It's all about the "sensitivity" of the camera as a whole, where the camera is treated as a black box--internals irrelevant--that takes in a measured amount of light and outputs a final digital photographic image (JPG, TIFF, HEIC, etc, but not raw, because raw files are not final images).

So really the standard just provides a uniform way to correlate the amount of light collected by the camera after it passes through the lens and shutter, as measured in lux-seconds, to certain specific characteristics of the final digital image output by the camera.

It also gives camera makers three entirely separate ways to specify their camera sensitivities: ISO Speed, SOS, or REI. These are all defined differently, measured differently, and don't necessarily result in the same ISO numbers. Heck, even the first one, "ISO speed", has three entirely different ways it can be measured, and none of the methods of measuring "ISO Speed" need to produce ISO numbers consistent with the other two ways of measuring it.

It really is a mess.

The standard is for jpeg output. For raw it is up to the manufactures to do whatever they want, but they all serm to stick pretty close to each other. My gripe was that the video falsely insisted that raising the iso changed the sensitivity of the sensor.
 
The standard is for jpeg output. For raw it is up to the manufactures to do whatever they want, but they all serm to stick pretty close to each other. My gripe was that the video falsely insisted that raising the iso changed the sensitivity of the sensor.
Well, to quibble a little bit: the ISO standard is related to final camera image output, regardless of specific image format. It does not specifically require JPG for measuring ISO. You just can’t use the camera’s raw output to measure ISO because raw is not an image format. Raw requires further processing to turn into an image.

But the point I was making was the standard actually does explicitly define the sensitivity of the camera and how it changes with ISO. Some folks definitely get that confused with the more specific concept of “sensitivity of the sensor” as you rightly pointed out. That may or may not change depending on one’s definition of sensor and sensitivity.
 
Back
Top