Z8 & Z9 My BEST Bird-In-Flight AF Settings

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Steve

Steve

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Looking for the best bird-in-flight (BIF) autofocus settings for your Nikon Z8 or Z9? Don't worry, you know I got your back!

In this video, we'll cover all the best AF settings for your Z8 or Z9. We'll look at relevant menu settings, I'll show you how to get the most from subject detection, we'll discuss AF areas and how to use them - and so much more.

This video is a bit of a deep dive, but if you're a bird-in-flight shooter with a Z8 or Z9, the field-proven advice in this view will skyrocket your keeper rate!

 
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Many thanks @Steve you are the first to get a video out on the new firmware 2.0 that describes real world usage.

Lots of good advice on settings to use for birds in flight etc. My fingers are a little short to reach the Fn1 and Fn2 buttons and keep a firm hold on the grip at the same time so I am looking at using your settings advice and swaping over the DISP and one of the Fn buttons so I can comfortably reach the buttons. Your real world experience is a great help making the most out the new firmware and many thanks for sharing.
 
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Another must see video! Thanks Steve again.
I have one question, at the end of your Video, I think I understood that most of the time you use manual iso for birds in flight. if it is the case, so you don’t rely any longer in most situation on Auto ISO.
I thought in your older videos and from your book ( Maybe I could be wrong) that you said it is better to use Auto ISO for bird in flight since the light can change quickly. Please correct me if I am wrong
Thank you
Lina
 
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Activert said:
Another must see video! Thanks Steve again.
I have one question, at the end of your Video, I think I understood that most of the time you use manual iso for birds in flight. if it is the case, so you don’t rely any longer in most situation on Auto ISO.
I thought in your older videos and from your book ( Maybe I could be wrong) that you said it is better to use Auto ISO for bird in flight since the light can change quickly. Please correct me if I am wrong
Thank you
Lina
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It really depends on the situation. Thanks to putting ISO on the control ring, it's really fast to make adjustments so I've been favoring full manual for BIF. However, if the tonality is consistent (i.e., the background and foreground are the same and aren't going from light to dark tonalities as the bird flies), I'll still use M + Auto ISO. I also use M + Auto ISO for most of my static work, since I usually have time for exposure comp.

With BIF, my rule of thumb is that if the light is changing (going in and out of clouds or the bird is going in and out of shade) AND the tonality is more or less the same, I'll use M + Auto ISO. However, if the light is more or less the same - and especially if the bird is flying against different background tonalities - I'll favor full manual mode.
 
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Although I am at work today and am unable to watch the video, I wanted to express my appreciation that you would take the time, energy, and effort to create a video which will likely be an immeasurable help to many users. Looking forward to absorbing your wisdom and incorporating it into my practice. Thank you, Steve!
 
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Steve said:
It really depends on the situation. Thanks to putting ISO on the control ring, it's really fast to make adjustments so I've been favoring full manual for BIF. However, if the tonality is consistent (i.e., the background and foreground are the same and aren't going from light to dark tonalities as the bird flies), I'll still use M + Auto ISO. I also use M + Auto ISO for most of my static work, since I usually have time for exposure comp.

With BIF, my rule of thumb is that if the light is changing (going in and out of clouds or the bird is going in and out of shade) AND the tonality is more or less the same, I'll use M + Auto ISO. However, if the light is more or less the same - and especially if the bird is flying against different background tonalities - I'll favor full manual mode.
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Thanks Steve!
 
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Thank you very much for continuing to provide updates with no additional charges for your customers. You are the only person doing this and my other Z9 guides are never updated and so of decreasing value over time with each new firmware update from Nikon.
 
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Calson said:
Thank you very much for continuing to provide updates with no additional charges for your customers. You are the only person doing this and my other Z9 guides are never updated and so of decreasing value over time with each new firmware update from Nikon.
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You're most welcome :)

Also, that's the reason why I don't do paper books - can you imagine how fast they would get outdated?
 
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Hi Steve I am currently see your video, is very informative as usual and I thank you for that !
I am new to Z8 so I start from scratch and on every video chapter I see and check my set up also
Just notice that a15 does not exist on Z8 menu and I think is now a sub menu on a11 “Manual focus mode” isn’t it?

My best regards, happy to be here!
 
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Nasos Kosmas said:
Hi Steve I am currently see your video, is very informative as usual and I thank you for that !
I am new to Z8 so I start from scratch and on every video chapter I see and check my set up also
Just notice that a15 does not exist on Z8 menu and I think is now a sub menu on a11 “Manual focus mode” isn’t it?

My best regards, happy to be here!
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As noted in the video, it only shows if you have a compatible lens attached :)
 
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Nasos Kosmas said:
So I guess my Z 24-70 f 4 and 40 f2 are not compatible, thanks!
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They might not be - I don't have either so I can't check. Looking at photos of the 24-70, it doesn't have a dedicated focus ring, so that's probably why. The 40 F/2 looks like it's just a control ring as well, but it's tough to tell in the photos if that's a control ring or focus ring. My 180-600 does not have a dedicated control ring and, when attached, a15 does not show up.
 
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JanH said:
Thank you so much, Steve. This is really a very helpful video. Do I understand correctly that you don't plan to hand off to 3D anymore?
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Probably not. I haven't been for awhile now as I was testing this with the Z9. Although there are times it's nice to have 3D on tap (more for static subjects), Auto really seems to do as well for the handoff and there's a little bit more of a safety net with it if SD drops the target. 3D can still work just fine of course, it's pretty close either way.
 
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@Steve I thought at one point you suggested using the video record button to switch between DX and FX modes. In the Z 8 how do you switch DX/FX modes?
 
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