5 Pro Secrets For Better Wildlife Backgrounds

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yeah yeah i know but i deleted all the lower resolution photos yet so... my bad. I will post them another day. i dont have time now, thank you anyways for the help @bleirer
 
If you want to take your wildlife photos to the next level, you gotta start with the background. In this video, I'll show you how to get great backgrounds with any lens (SURPRISE - you don't need a big, fast prime to do it). I'll show you how to strategically leverage your position, distance, and current gear to create backgrounds that'll skyrocket the impact of your photos instantly.

Check out the video below - in less than 8 minutes, you'll be knocking out backgrounds like the pros :)

(Also, this was inspired by a recent conversation here at the forum). :)


If you want to take your wildlife photos to the next level, you gotta start with the background. In this video, I'll show you how to get great backgrounds with any lens (SURPRISE - you don't need a big, fast prime to do it). I'll show you how to strategically leverage your position, distance, and current gear to create backgrounds that'll skyrocket the impact of your photos instantly.

Check out the video below - in less than 8 minutes, you'll be knocking out backgrounds like the pros :)

(Also, this was inspired by a recent conversation here at the forum). :)

Your backgrounds are beautiful. Still I like to mix things up. The sharpe bird in a sharp background made me refocus my appreciation of images. I guess, I am saying I enjoy the deferent artistic view points of different photographers. Also, I do not mind modest computer improvements in back ground blur. I remember your Go to Layers, New, Copy ViaCut, Field Blur, Be restrained. Practical deep dives are hard to find. Of course I would like to see more. How do you bring out the best in a photograph in which every thing is sharp?
 
Attached are two images of a blue heron. The second image was selectively blurred in Photoshop to reduce the busy background and hopefully draw the viewer into the image. Two different areas of Field Blur were used: the brush and the water. The heron was masked out of each of these regions. The two masks were applied to smart objects so that the magnitude of each blur could be easily adjusted. Of note the mask for the water was on a linear gradient which decreased the blur as the heron was approached in the image. Clearly, people's tastes differ but I am puzzled why anyone would consider the image produced by the application of these or similar techniques, a fake image.


10272023-GLP Heron & Grebe-BCG-1632 1.jpg
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10272023-GLP Heron & Grebe-BCG-1632.jpg
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Thanks @Steve I think the best thing is for all of us is to enjoy what we do. As an "older" retired lady, I no longer have time to worry about what I do, but to enjoy what I do. Now, if someone could stop my husband from cringing everytime I mention new camera equipment, we'd be grand. 😆
Fortunately I've resolved the "husband" question in my own way but I agree with you about taking pictures to share with folks who will never have the privilege of seeing what I've been able to photograph. @Steve has helped me get much more accomplished with what I can share, and with one candid photo critique has also raised my standards for what I consider share-worthy. Which doesn't diminish the joy of taking the photo at all.
 
If you want to take your wildlife photos to the next level, you gotta start with the background. In this video, I'll show you how to get great backgrounds with any lens (SURPRISE - you don't need a big, fast prime to do it). I'll show you how to strategically leverage your position, distance, and current gear to create backgrounds that'll skyrocket the impact of your photos instantly.

Check out the video below - in less than 8 minutes, you'll be knocking out backgrounds like the pros :)

(Also, this was inspired by a recent conversation here at the forum). :)

Great tips Steve. Background blurring is not a thing to worry. An AI powered photo editor can bring the required blur for me. 😀
 
Steve and others, I just watched the video and thought the tips and techniques were great.

I do not use Lightroom or Photoshop but I do use the NIK Collection that I access through DXO PL7. In Color Efex Pro I often use Tonal Contrast to "blur" backgrounds -- tone down some of the background elements by using the sliders for Highlights, Midtones and Shadows to reduce features. Changes once made look more natural than blur that can be done as a Local Adjustment in DXO PL7.

Tonal Contrast can be applied globally or locally through a control point. Or you can use a negative control point to prevent the changes from affecting the main subject like a bird or animal.
 
If you want to take your wildlife photos to the next level, you gotta start with the background. In this video, I'll show you how to get great backgrounds with any lens (SURPRISE - you don't need a big, fast prime to do it). I'll show you how to strategically leverage your position, distance, and current gear to create backgrounds that'll skyrocket the impact of your photos instantly.

Check out the video below - in less than 8 minutes, you'll be knocking out backgrounds like the pros :)

(Also, this was inspired by a recent conversation here at the forum). :)

Good tips. Most I try to do whenever Possible. As for post, I love using the new blur options in PS and LR and use them a lot. I am often having to do bigger crops with shorter glass and this tool can makes things really nice. It’s tricky though and you have to very careful as it will often blur things you don’t want and this can be time consuming to fix. I will als sometimes just select the background and pull back clarity and texture a bit with a bit of LR noise reduction on the selected area. This can often soften things a bit in a subtle way. Recently I started using Pure Raw 3 and find it can work rea well instead of Topaz Denoise, my go to software for the past several years. I don’t do contests and I just photograph for my own pleasure and I have my likes and dislikes. I am not a purist and tend to avoid such states of mind.
 
Steve and others, I just watched the video and thought the tips and techniques were great.

I do not use Lightroom or Photoshop but I do use the NIK Collection that I access through DXO PL7. In Color Efex Pro I often use Tonal Contrast to "blur" backgrounds -- tone down some of the background elements by using the sliders for Highlights, Midtones and Shadows to reduce features. Changes once made look more natural than blur that can be done as a Local Adjustment in DXO PL7.

Tonal Contrast can be applied globally or locally through a control point. Or you can use a negative control point to prevent the changes from affecting the main subject like a bird or animal.
I do this as well. I love Nik and use it on most of my final edits.
 
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