I like the idea of "given the price and the limited availability, you might consider renting one when you need it".
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Exactly. Isn't his 400/2.8 TC supposed to be even more prone to focus shift?! It's a faster lens. It looks like Thom has some personal resentment about the 800pf. He did us all a favor and paid for a lens that he won't use because he doesn't need it. I'm reading all of his reviews, Its the first time he has written something like this.I don't think Thom.is referring here to the AF fine tune issues like on the DSLRs. I have seen few of Thom's reviews of Z glass where he keeps saying there is focus shift when you stop the lens down and the fact that Z cameras do not have a way to correct it.
sounds mostly hypotheticalIn this the lens would normally focus wide open at f/6.3, and if you are trying to shoot at f/9 or f/11 you might find that the actual focus is different than wide open. I have not seen that, but technically it is possible. AF Fine tuning would not really be useful for this because the problem is not present wide open. My experience is I'm shooting wide open most of the time anyway, and the added DOF from stopping down should cover any focus shift issues.
Here is an article about focus shift.
What is Focus Shift?
photographylife.com
Not sure how he exactly measures this but here's one more from his review of the Z 24-70 f4 and I'm pretty sure I've seen this with few more of his reviews of Z mount lensesExactly. Isn't his 400/2.8 TC supposed to be even more prone to focus shift?! It's a faster lens. It looks like Thom has some personal resentment about the 800pf. He did us all a favor and paid for a lens that he won't use because he doesn't need it. I'm reading all of his reviews, Its the first time he has written something like this.
Or, perhaps, that is his own way of getting "clicks".
This one of the lenses I never read because I was reading the 24-70 f/2.8 which I own.Not sure how he exactly measures this but here's one more from his review of the Z 24-70 f4 and I'm pretty sure I've seen this with few more of his reviews of Z mount lenses
"Focus shift: "
https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/nikkor-lenses/nikon-z-mount-lens-reviews/nikkor-24-70mm-f4-s-lens.html#:~:text=with deconvolution sharpeners.-,Focus shift:,-Some clear-but
This one of the lenses I never read because I was reading the 24-70 f/2.8 which I own.
How do you link a page down to the word?
Do I need to be worried about focus shifting in the 50/1.2?
Isn’t Nikon aligning all the wavelengths before hitting the sensor?
i have a suspicion that control placement is a secondary consideration. i get the impression nikon has a vision for the role each lens will fill and then is taking an almost artisanal approach to building the lens completely driven by that goal and other performance characteristics are higher on the list than control consistency or layout.On the niggling subjects, I do agree with Thom that Nikon's engineers got button layout almost right on the 100-400 S but they slipped up on their placement in the other Telephoto Z primes. The buttons on the 800 PF would work much better closer together.
I completely agree with this. To repeat what I said above FOV is FOV regardless of focal length. If you are filling the frame with a subject it's just as hard to track motion with 400mm as it is with 500, 600, 800... And in fact it's easier with longer lenses due to increased distance and therefore slower relative motion. The reason this is perceived as such an issue is because from a practical standpoint most wildlife photographers seek longer glass because they aren't/can't getting close enough to fill the frame and look to longer glass to do so. In which case yes certainly shooting from the same distance and going from 500mm to 800mm keeping a BIF in the frame is going to be harder....Compared to my experience the costs of this tighter FoV is over dramatized IME...
We should keep in mind that Thom is NOT a wildlife photographer. For a few days each year he sits in the back of a safari vehicle in Africa. With animals well habituated to vehicles he can simply tell the driver to get him closer. This is also no doubt the reason that he makes such an issue of heat distortion. Virtually all of his wildlife shooting is done in Africa and he shoots a lot of sports over sun heated fields(or pitches in the Queen's English). My frame of reference is the exact opposite. The vast majority of my shooting is in overcast condition, low sun angles, or over water. I can count on fingers the number of times heat distortion has been a practical concern for me.... I find it naieve to pigeonhole all wildlife photographers into a context where they should be closer in on subjects...
To repeat what I said above FOV is FOV regardless of focal length. If you are filling the frame with a subject it's just as hard to track motion with 400mm as it is with 500, 600, 800... And in fact it's easier with longer lenses due to increased distance and therefore slower relative motion.
But when I do shoot wide open? Or I’m a at MFD with a stopped down lens?Personally, i feel this topic on focus shift is a bit over rated. The issue allegedly crops when stopping down and the DoF will anyways take care of the focal plane.
Google has a feature wherein you can just select a portion of a text, a word, paragraph etc , right click and you'll see 'share'. Just copy and paste it and it'll link precisely to whatever you selected.
I don't think it's a real issue, but if it exists it is when you are stopped down beyond f/5.6. The Z lenses normally focus at an aperture of f/5.6 (this is not exactly true, but close enough). Thom may see it but especially with the Z cameras, I'm not sure I buy it. There are only so many issues you can worry about.But when I do shoot wide open? Or I’m a at MFD with a stopped down lens?
Is this a real issue with Nikon (or all) lenses, or not? I’m asking seriously.
Most certainly for anyone whose challenge to keep the image in the VF is shaky hands etc the longer lens is harder. If the challenge is movement of the animal it is easier the farther away that you are. Put away the calculator and try it you'll like itI think geometry might disagree with this statement...
If you are tracking a subject from a fixed position you are roughly moving in a circle, twisting your body as you are trying to keep the bird in frame.
Now, if my napkin math is correct, at 16m you'll get the same FOV with an 800mm as you'd get at 10m with a 500mm.
So shooting with the 500mm you are in the center of a circle with a radius of 10m => roughly 62m circumference.
Shooting with the 800mm you are in the center of a circle with a radius of 16m => roughly 100mm circumference.
So, say, if you twist 10 degrees to follow the bird, you would have shifted your image by 1.7 meters with the 500mm and 2.7m with the 800mm (remember, FOV is the same).
Since humans aren't precision instruments (most of us at least), this means that, for the same FOV it is harder to make precise adjustments and easier to overshoot your subject with the 800mm than the 500mm.
So it is realistically harder to track with the 800
Also, as a fun fact, since keeping the FoV the same means you are further away from your subject with the 800mm and since air temperature is not uniform over distance and this leads to refraction of the light beam that leads to loss of sharpness, you can end up with more light bends when using the 800mm than the 500mm pf so the longer lens is more impacted by heat distortion...
Please PM me with your asking price before you post it up for sale.I completely agree with this... Now that I'm aware of the focus shift issue it's ruined it for me. I think I'll sell mine
I love this chart that you created. When do you plan to publish the North America version?On the matters of subject size(s) and 'filling the frame' , I collated this schematic as a field guide. It is clear why it's not uncommon to find a 800mm lens on a FX camera barely suffices for smaller birds. In these situations, one needs 1120mm to frame a tiny bird at a ~5m distance.
Medium sized mammals are another example: e.g. smaller antelopes, warthogs, cats about lynx size etc. When hiking, I have found 700mm is too little lens to frame Caracal that are relatively approachable if one is discrete. One male I met a few times once stalked me as I was lying down in camouflage, but he was still maintained a safe distance for him. Since that lesson I never leave the house with the 800 PF without the TC14.
View attachment 56483
Don't forget that the effects of heat distortion are pretty much enlarged by a 800mm lens compared to a short lens, in the same way the subject appears enlarged on the sensor.[...] At a given distance from the subject and for the same field of view(i.e. final cropped image) heat distortion has the same effect regardless of lens used. As he mentions many people are buying this lens because they can't get any closer to what they're shooting and they want more "pixels on target". So regardless of what lens they use heat distortion is going to be the same. [...]
You must not have read the post carefully. You either overlooked, ignored, or misunderstood the part about "for the same field of view(i.e. final cropped image)".Don't forget that the effects of heat distortion are pretty much enlarged by a 800mm lens compared to a short lens, in the same way the subject appears enlarged on the sensor.
Indeed, at a long distance, the air between you and the subject is the same, but I have never heard any photographer complaining about heat distortion when shooting mountains with a 28mm lens.
I apologize, i have overlooked it.You must not have read the post carefully. You either overlooked, ignored, or misunderstood the part about "for the same field of view(i.e. final cropped image)".
Ouch!I apologize, i have overlooked it.
Things like that happen all the time since I got Covid three days ago
Nice chart! Wish our bobcats would wander over and check me out! Maybe I should rub myself with fish oil? I find I never have enough reach so I carry both the 1.4 and 2.0 TC with my 800mm lens. Allows me to stay at a distance and watch them hunt, etc (of course, then someone else approaches them and spooks them).On the matters of subject size(s) and 'filling the frame' , I collated this schematic as a field guide. It is clear why it's not uncommon to find that a 800mm lens on a FX camera barely suffices for smaller birds. In these situations, one often needs 1120mm to frame a tiny bird at a ~5m distance.
Medium sized mammals are another example: e.g. smaller antelopes, warthogs, cats about lynx size etc. When hiking, I have found 700mm is too little lens to frame Caracal that are relatively approachable if one is discrete. One male I met up with a few times once stalked me as I was lying down in camouflage, but although curious he still kept safe distance for himself. Since that lesson I never leave the house with the 800 PF without the TC14.
Oh my. Hope your symptoms aren't too bad and you get well soon. I've had it three times. Less severe each time.I apologize, i have overlooked it.
Things like that happen all the time since I got Covid three days ago
Thank you. I drew it up in Coreldraw, using clipart icons and also a font set depicting some African animals. But the birds are Chicken, Pigeon, Sparrow I think so more global citizens! I was aiming at extremes in diversity as a rough guide to gauging distances etc. The distances are computed using an online site. I carry this on longer trips printed as a "cheatsheet" with DoF tables etcI love this chart that you created. When do you plan to publish the North America version?
Nice chart! Wish our bobcats would wander over and check me out! Maybe I should rub myself with fish oil? I find I never have enough reach so I carry both the 1.4 and 2.0 TC with my 800mm lens. Allows me to stay at a distance and watch them hunt, etc (of course, then someone else approaches them and spooks them).
Recent shot at 1600 mm:
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