85 image stack of a Blue Darner Eye from the side.

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I don't know if this is just because of the way I set up Lightroom, but if you don't find the .tiff file that Helicon sent back to Lightroom (I always save then close Helicon) you need to "sync" the folder you are working in. Maybe Adobe fixed that, but I am programmed to do the folder sync.
 
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If you really want to "Geek Out" : "Export the stacking result to Helicon 3d Viewer, and advanced computing algorithms will exactly reconstruct the natural 3D view of the shot subject. Easy to add on the Web and share with colleagues and community, 3D visualization gives a completely realistic view. Adjust the relief type and the viewpoint, add light source and save the 3D model rotation video in a fraction of a minute."

 
I don't know if this is just because of the way I set up Lightroom, but if you don't find the .tiff file that Helicon sent back to Lightroom (I always save then close Helicon) you need to "sync" the folder you are working in. Maybe Adobe fixed that, but I am programmed to do the folder sync.
I spent hours doing what the Adobe tutorials tried to tell me to do with syncing and epically failed. I think I got them synced but when I went into where the command was to combine the images, I forget the Adobe term, it was never active. I was right there where supposedly all I had to do was click the command but it was always greyed out. The Obviously I was doing it wrong:) The cool part is that the files and the work I did is right where I left off so when I pick it up again I don't have to start over. Maybe next winter I'll practice PS and figure out what was wrong.
 
My workflow is straightforward.
1. Import your focus stacking images into Lightroom. Note: If you use Helicon Remote to get your stacked images it will send your images directly to Helicon Focus.
Tip: Take a picture of your hand or piece of paper between stacks so you can quickly see the end of one attempt and the next!
2. Select all the images in Lightroom
3. Right Click export to Helicon Focus 8 ( I do it as a .tiff)
4. I typically render A then B then C.
5. I set the Radius to 30 and Smoothing to 7. Your taste may vary!
6. I save each result and then close the program and it will send them to Lightroom.
7. In the Library View I click the Library tab (top left menu) and click the Synchronize Folder (if it is dimmed out...you need to select the folder that the images were returned to!).
8. To find the darn files, use the Library Filter and search for .tif
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8. I do a lot of my editing in Lightroom, but I find it easy to click "Edit in" Photoshop and use the Spot Healing Brush to clean up dust and dirt on the critter. I then run the Sharpen tool along the edges of wings, antenna, feathers etc. to sharpen the edges. Don't overdo it!

(Tip: If you find Lightroom overwhelming like me, edit your Tool Bar to only the tools you use for photography. I put the Healing tools as the top tool, the sharpen next and so on. I only put the tools I use!
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9. SAVE the image in Photoshop when you are done and when you go back to Lightroom it is already there!

SUPER EASY!
Practice on something big and easy first! The image on paper money works well or go find a BIG bug.

PRACTICE!

After a while it goes really fast!

Note: Learning how to use Helicon Remote with a WeMacro powered rail REALLY gives you great results after the learning curve!!!!
 
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Actually, one of the main reasons I bought the Z6II was the Focus Shift Shooting (stacking) capabilities which are really outstanding.

You focus a little bit "in front" of the object, set the Focus Step Width (SWAG) which I have at 3, Set the number of shots (also a SWAG to a certain degree), set the interval to zero if you are not using flash, and press Start. The camera rips off the shoots as fast as it can shoot, and it is done in less than 10 seconds or so! I have been practicing all winter.

I also have a manual rail which I use in the field and a WeMacro computerized/powered rail in the basement Macro Lab.

This shot was done on the Z6II with Focus Shift Shooting. Amazing!
Yeppers. Focus rails are kind of a thing of the past with the Focus Shift Setting and Helicon combines the images a single mouse click. The only real challenge is having a subject that will not move while the camera exposes the images or I would use it all the time. I have a setting in my "I" menu for Focus Shift Shooting with all the settings already programmed and ready for me to open it and tell it to start.
 
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