Back Botton & Shutter Speed

[Delphis]

I have a question for Steve. How do you use the back botton and at the same time change the shutter speed ? For exemple in wildlifephotography, a bird or an other animal is sitting on a branch or just standing quiet and all of a sudden takes off. When the animal is standing still i hardly need a 1/4000 but when he takes off i cant press the back botton and a the same time turn the wheel. How do you handle that.

 

[FB101]

I am not Steve (obviously) but the way I handle that scenario depends on the bird. If it’s twitchy and restless, I do the stills at high shutter speed and take the iso penalty.
If it’s a more patient bird, I go to a lower speed, take a couple stills, go back to higher shutter speed and wait. And i keep on hoping to the birding gods during the whole process that the bird is actually patient

Thats why I can’t wait to try the Sony A1. You can set one back button focus for BIF and the other for Stills. That includes all the parameters (shutter speed, aperture, high iso limit, AF mode, frame rate... whatever you want to change). It’s like having 2 (or more) cameras set completely differently at the press of one single button. At least on paper that seems the perfect solution to the problem you describe and we have all run into.
Apparently the camera also remembers what bird you had focused on for stills (likely with a very small focus area for accuracy on the eye) and jumps back to that same bird when you change back button and resume with your BIF settings and a wider AF area... now that sounds too good to be true but I can’t wait to try.

 

[Delphis]

I am not Steve (obviously) but the way I handle that scenario depends on the bird. If it’s twitchy and restless, I do the stills at high shutter speed and take the iso penalty.
If it’s a more patient bird, I go to a lower speed, take a couple stills, go back to higher shutter speed and wait. And i keep on hoping to the birding gods during the whole process that the bird is actually patient

Thats why I can’t wait to try the Sony A1. You can set one back button focus for BIF and the other for Stills. That includes all the parameters (shutter speed, aperture, high iso limit, AF mode, frame rate... whatever you want to change). It’s like having 2 (or more) cameras set completely differently at the press of one single button. At least on paper that seems the perfect solution to the problem you describe and we have all run into.
Apparently the camera also remembers what bird you had focused on for stills (likely with a very small focus area for accuracy on the eye) and jumps back to that same bird when you change back button and resume with your BIF settings and a wider AF area... now that sounds too good to be true but I can’t wait to try.

I am not Steve (obviously) but the way I handle that scenario depends on the bird. If it’s twitchy and restless, I do the stills at high shutter speed and take the iso penalty.
If it’s a more patient bird, I go to a lower speed, take a couple stills, go back to higher shutter speed and wait. And i keep on hoping to the birding gods during the whole process that the bird is actually patient

Thats why I can’t wait to try the Sony A1. You can set one back button focus for BIF and the other for Stills. That includes all the parameters (shutter speed, aperture, high iso limit, AF mode, frame rate... whatever you want to change). It’s like having 2 (or more) cameras set completely differently at the press of one single button. At least on paper that seems the perfect solution to the problem you describe and we have all run into.
Apparently the camera also remembers what bird you had focused on for stills (likely with a very small focus area for accuracy on the eye) and jumps back to that same bird when you change back button and resume with your BIF settings and a wider AF area... now that sounds too good to be true but I can’t wait to try.

 

[Steve]

As Frederic says, some cameras allow you to switch instantly, but for the most part you have to anticipate. Using M + Auto ISO helps since you can jump to a faster shutter speed very quickly, but the big this is knowing behavior. Although some birds will just burst into flight out of nowhere (esp smaller ones), most of the time you'll get a few cues that they are about to depart. I talk about this in my BIF book (and what to watch for) but the bottom line is that when you see things like restlessness, poop, turning into the wind (to name a few) it's a good sign takeoff is imminent. That's when you crank up the speed.

 

[bleirer]

-

 

[Delphis]

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As Frederic says, some cameras allow you to switch instantly, but for the most part you have to anticipate. Using M + Auto ISO helps since you can jump to a faster shutter speed very quickly, but the big this is knowing behavior. Although some birds will just burst into flight out of nowhere (esp smaller ones), most of the time you'll get a few cues that they are about to depart. I talk about this in my BIF book (and what to watch for) but the bottom line is that when you see things like restlessness, poop, turning into the wind (to name a few) it's a good sign takeoff is imminent. That's when you crank up the speed.

Thank you so much Steve. Since i had seen your Video on back botton i changeded immediatley and would never wanted to go back again. It is not only for birds, but in generall for wildlife an it's not always easy to anticipate what the animal is doing. I mostly photograph in Manuel Mode with Auto ISO (according to your Video ) Most of the time i am using a high sutter speed not to miss out on a good action.

 

[DRwyoming]

...It is not only for birds, but in generall for wildlife an it's not always easy to anticipate what the animal is doing. I mostly photograph in Manuel Mode with Auto ISO (according to your Video ) Most of the time i am using a high sutter speed not to miss out on a good action.

Yeah, BBAF along with Manual Mode/Auto ISO is a great way to go. It's useful for all kinds of situations, even landscapes where you want a precise focus point but don't want the AF system tracking things like fluttering leaves or splashing water.

In terms of making both shutter speed and even aperture changes for changing situations, you really do need to change your settings prior to tracking and capturing the action. I don't really find it feasible to make on-the-fly changes to shutter speed or aperture once the action has begun and I'm actively tracking and trying to capture images. If I think action is imminent then I'll quickly spin up the shutter speed and often close down the aperture a stop or two (depending on the light and the subject) to have a bit more depth of field insurance once the action begins. Trying to do that after the action has started is pretty frustrating and usually just ends up in missed shots. As posted above that's where behavioral clues like a larger bird tilting into the wind or even something like the bird staring intently at the ground before pouncing on prey can help you make the necessary adjustments before the action starts.

 

[Delphis]

Yeah, BBAF along with Manual Mode/Auto ISO is a great way to go. It's useful for all kinds of situations, even landscapes where you want a precise focus point but don't want the AF system tracking things like fluttering leaves or splashing water.

In terms of making both shutter speed and even aperture changes for changing situations, you really do need to change your settings prior to tracking and capturing the action. I don't really find it feasible to make on-the-fly changes to shutter speed or aperture once the action has begun and I'm actively tracking and trying to capture images. If I think action is imminent then I'll quickly spin up the shutter speed and often close down the aperture a stop or two (depending on the light and the subject) to have a bit more depth of field insurance once the action begins. Trying to do that after the action has started is pretty frustrating and usually just ends up in missed shots. As posted above that's where behavioral clues like a larger bird tilting into the wind or even something like the bird staring intently at the ground before pouncing on prey can help you make the necessary adjustments before the action starts.

This is for me also the time to say thank you for all your outstanding e-books, Video's etc. it is always top quality and easy understandable. And thank you as well for your explanation, to me you are one of the best photographer's and i wish i would not live so far away. I think i would be in every workshop you give

 

[DRwyoming]

This is for me also the time to say thank you for all your outstanding e-books, Video's etc. it is always top quality and easy understandable. And thank you as well for your explanation, to me you are one of the best photographer's and i wish i would not live so far away. I think i would be in every workshop you give

I'm sure those thoughts were directed at Steve... and I agree

But thanks anyway

 

[Delphis]

I'm sure those thoughts were directed at Steve... and I agree

But thanks anyway

Yes, and my pleasure

 

[gbodave]

My camera default settings are always for fast action including BBAF using the AF/ON button. For perched/standing or slow moving birds/animals I have the AEL button set up with a much slower shutter speed and with BBAF too. When I need to change to AEL I'm still only using one button which is about 1 cm from the AF-ON button.

 

[Delphis]

My camera default settings are always for fast action including BBAF using the AF/ON button. For perched/standing or slow moving birds/animals I have the AEL button set up with a much slower shutter speed and with BBAF too. When I need to change to AEL I'm still only using one button which is about 1 cm from the AF-ON button.

Thank you so much for your input. I am a Nikon shooter with the D850, D750, and D500, so there ist no AEL botton to eventually put it on that for slower speed. You definatley have with your Sony A9 a better gear

 

[Tom Reynolds]

On my d-500 one movement of the rear dial moves from 1/3200 (my normal GIF) to 1/1250. One swipe is 1/4000 to 1/1500. Pretty quick

 

[Jerryjaws]

You’ll learn certain birds behaviors as you spend time photographing them.

 

[DRwyoming]

On my d-500 one movement of the rear dial moves from 1/3200 (my normal GIF) to 1/1250. One swipe is 1/4000 to 1/1500. Pretty quick

That was my thought. Shooting Manual Mode/Auto ISO it's just a flick of the thumb to change shutter speed and flick of the index finger to change aperture on the fly. I haven't found that slows me down at all when I want to make on the fly adjustments anticipating action or when the action settles down again.

 

[frdjohns]

Assuming the light is good enough to allow for reasonable ISO levels at the aperture you are using, I have never heard someone complain that an image was taken with too high a shutter speed.

 

[Delphis]

Yeah, BBAF along with Manual Mode/Auto ISO is a great way to go. It's useful for all kinds of situations, even landscapes where you want a precise focus point but don't want the AF system tracking things like fluttering leaves or splashing water.

In terms of making both shutter speed and even aperture changes for changing situations, you really do need to change your settings prior to tracking and capturing the action. I don't really find it feasible to make on-the-fly changes to shutter speed or aperture once the action has begun and I'm actively tracking and trying to capture images. If I think action is imminent then I'll quickly spin up the shutter speed and often close down the aperture a stop or two (depending on the light and the subject) to have a bit more depth of field insurance once the action begins. Trying to do that after the action has started is pretty frustrating and usually just ends up in missed shots. As posted above that's where behavioral clues like a larger bird tilting into the wind or even something like the bird staring intently at the ground before pouncing on prey can help you make the necessary adjustments before the action starts.

Thank you kindly for all the good tips, i really appreciate it.

 

[Tom Reynolds]

That was my thought. Shooting Manual Mode/Auto ISO it's just a flick of the thumb to change shutter speed and flick of the index finger to change aperture on the fly. I haven't found that slows me down at all when I want to make on the fly adjustments anticipating action or when the action settles down again.

Continuing. On my D-500 I am at 1/3200 or 1/4000 with GRP autofocus for smaller, faster birds. When the bird lands I flip the selector with my thumb to 1/1250 or 1/1500 and press the front button to switch to point then shoot the stationary subject. Generally, I flip back to 1/3200 as soon as I the stationary shot to wait for the bird to take off.

I think the key is setup the camera and to practice this combo until it is second nature. It does take a while to master but the D-500's ergonomics seems designed for this. Since I move the focus point and don't recompose pressing the shutter also focuses. (I use BBAF following the bird.)

No doubt the Sony one button is easier.

 

[bleirer]

That was my thought. Shooting Manual Mode/Auto ISO it's just a flick of the thumb to change shutter speed and flick of the index finger to change aperture on the fly. I haven't found that slows me down at all when I want to make on the fly adjustments anticipating action or when the action settles down again.

On my Canon it's the opposite, thumb for aperture, index for shutter speed, but it can be swapped in the camera menu. I'm sure the OP could swap them if that was their personal preference but I think you get used to it whichever way it is.

 

[Drbobcameraguy]

I am not Steve (obviously) but the way I handle that scenario depends on the bird. If it’s twitchy and restless, I do the stills at high shutter speed and take the iso penalty.
If it’s a more patient bird, I go to a lower speed, take a couple stills, go back to higher shutter speed and wait. And i keep on hoping to the birding gods during the whole process that the bird is actually patient

Thats why I can’t wait to try the Sony A1. You can set one back button focus for BIF and the other for Stills. That includes all the parameters (shutter speed, aperture, high iso limit, AF mode, frame rate... whatever you want to change). It’s like having 2 (or more) cameras set completely differently at the press of one single button. At least on paper that seems the perfect solution to the problem you describe and we have all run into.
Apparently the camera also remembers what bird you had focused on for stills (likely with a very small focus area for accuracy on the eye) and jumps back to that same bird when you change back button and resume with your BIF settings and a wider AF area... now that sounds too good to be true but I can’t wait to try.

On my D5oo I have my PV button set for single point my joystick button set for group auto focus and my af on button set for area auto focus. I spin my wheel to change shutter speed and my front wheel to change aperture while bbf. No issues. Do it with the camera to my eye.

 

[FB101]

On my D5oo I have my PV button set for single point my joystick button set for group auto focus and my af on button set for area auto focus. I spin my wheel to change shutter speed and my front wheel to change aperture while bbf. No issues. Do it with the camera to my eye.

Yes, no issue, I did it for years on D500 and D850 but you can't have all the changes with one single press of one single button. On the A1 you can, as well as changing for matrix to spot light measurement and any of the 11 different parameters you can bake into a single button.

Most of the time it won't matter, both methods will yield equal results. The difference will come when you want to go instantly from 1/500, spot light measure and single spot AF to 1/3200, matrix and group because the bird is taking off. I can't do it fast enough to not lose the bird. With the single button set-up all I need is to switch my thumb from one back button to the one next to it and everything changes on the spot. It only matters if time to make the changes is the limiting factor - otherwise there is absolutely no difference.

 

[MikePapple]

Continuing. On my D-500 I am at 1/3200 or 1/4000 with GRP autofocus for smaller, faster birds. When the bird lands I flip the selector with my thumb to 1/1250 or 1/1500 and press the front button to switch to point then shoot the stationary subject. Generally, I flip back to 1/3200 as soon as I the stationary shot to wait for the bird to take off.

I think the key is setup the camera and to practice this combo until it is second nature. It does take a while to master but the D-500's ergonomics seems designed for this. Since I move the focus point and don't recompose pressing the shutter also focuses. (I use BBAF following the bird.)

No doubt the Sony one button is easier.

I have a Sony A1. My '2' setting is manual with auto-ISO, wide open aperture, shutter 1/2500s, large zone bird eye detect (no back-button AF). When a bird is still, I hold down the AEL which drops the shutter to 1/500s or 1/800s, and changes the drive mode to single shot, or L with 5 fps.

My AF-ON button is AF-C tracking with a small focus spot (no eye detect). I point the middle of the sensor at what I want to focus on and hold down AF-ON. I can re-compose, then wait for the critter to run or fly.

These focus-hold buttons can change 10 or 12 settings with one push. Many Sony lenses also have a focus-hold button.