Canon R5m2 & R1 : First Impressions

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Yeah, for the most part if you are shooting birds, figure out what the camera's dual-gain ISO step is and think of that as your base ISO. Get that SS up. ISO 100 should rarely (if ever) be used for bird photography.
The R5II, Z8/Z9 and A1 all have ISO 500 dual-gain....up your SS instead of bothering to go below ISO 500. Raise your ISO to whatever you need to get a fast enough SS. It is so easy to make an ISO 6400 image look clean and sharp these days but impossible to make a motion blur photo look good.
 
Yeah, for the most part if you are shooting birds, figure out what the camera's dual-gain ISO step is and think of that as your base ISO. Get that SS up. ISO 100 should rarely (if ever) be used for bird photography.
The R5II, Z8/Z9 and A1 all have ISO 500 dual-gain....up your SS instead of bothering to go below ISO 500. Raise your ISO to whatever you need to get a fast enough SS. It is so easy to make an ISO 6400 image look clean and sharp these days but impossible to make a motion blur photo look good.
^, here’s one I took a month ago at ISO 5600@ 1/4000th for an idea of the detail after you denoise with lightroom‘s AI denoise tool:

 
Thanks guys, that was a relapse of sorts when I used the 100-500 with Canon R5: someone had said you can go really low with SS safely so that was copied from the R5 settings used for 100-500 but even then, that was potentially a wrong advice. We shall see today, only bringing Canon today plus 600 on a walk.
 
Canon Camera Connect …

Canon Camera Connect
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I always — that's my intention, anyway — connect my camera and iPhone before shooting:
  • Location, GPS and altitude, recorded to EXIF data (is my terminology correct?).
  • Alerts me to camera firmware updates; not sure about lenses.
  • Uploads images to iPhone – definitely not for me (30 images per second oftentimes).
  • Remote control of camera settings and shooting.
  • et cetera…
Do you connect your camera — Canon, Nikon, Leica, Panasonic, OM, Sony — to your smartphone?

Please share experiences and/or heartfelt opinions.

… David
 
Canon Camera Connect …

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I always — that's my intention, anyway — connect my camera and iPhone before shooting:
  • Location, GPS and altitude, recorded to EXIF data (is my terminology correct?).
  • Alerts me to camera firmware updates; not sure about lenses.
  • Uploads images to iPhone – definitely not for me (30 images per second oftentimes).
  • Remote control of camera settings and shooting.
  • et cetera…
Do you connect your camera — Canon, Nikon, Leica, Panasonic, OM, Sony — to your smartphone?

Please share experiences and/or heartfelt opinions.

… David
David,
I connect my camera (R5, not used R5 MKII yet where I need it) to the Canon Camera Connect app when shooting from a tripod and I want to use remote shutter. Mostly have used at Eagle nests and some for red-headed woodpeckers when shooting video. Have used it for maybe 3 years with mostly good results.
Dave
 
Thanks guys, that was a relapse of sorts when I used the 100-500 with Canon R5: someone had said you can go really low with SS safely so that was copied from the R5 settings used for 100-500 but even then, that was potentially a wrong advice. We shall see today, only bringing Canon today plus 600 on a walk.

The image stabilization is very good on that combo of lens and camera, so what you say is true for camera shake, if the subject is still. IS would have no impact on subject movement though.
 
Before I post anything from today's run, just to say there is room sometimes for low SS even in the extreme case like below with swift in full flight with no wind (SS=1/400).

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^ Had to squash it and EXIF is lost. Canon R5m2 f4 SS=1/2000 ISO=200

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Garden warbler (possibly).
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Woodpecker is about 10-15 degrees from direct sun, that was not pleasant.

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Black-necked grebe (rare these parts), _very_ far this one.

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In desperation, pulled out a 1.4 extender.

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View attachment 95977
 
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Are all these photos SOOC JPG images ? Do you have any RAW files to share, if possible ?

Thank you.

Oliver
I can post a couple of RAW's but not sure where and how. The files were processed with DPP4 and the only thing I sometimes did was play with Shadow and Hightlight sliders. Coming from Nikon, I am still surprised that it seems like I have to go to the Lens correction tab (making sure the camera+lens profile is downloaded) and only then the process is run (taking up to 20 seconds on my PC)--significantly improving the image. I did not do any non-default adjustments on that tab. After that, I exported the cropped photos as JPEG's with quality 9 normally--to make them fit here.
 
A miner squabble …

Noisy Miner : Manorina melanocephala
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Canon R5m2 | RF 100–500
300 mm | ƒ/5.6 | 1/1250s | ISO 4000 | EC +2.7
30 fps | pre-continuous shooting | image severely cropped


Noisy Miner : Manorina melanocephala
Pine Mountain, Queensland


For me, it was a lazy afternoon passed messing around in our garden, and drinking more cups of tea than was strictly necessary.

I didn't have the place to myself: the Noisy Miners — our sociable squabblers — were up to their usual tricks. One bored individual was clinging to the highest sprigs of a casuarina tree about twenty or thirty metres away. An exuberant companion hurtled in from on high (our right), knocking its auntie/sister/mother almost upside down, before circling back to alight next to its already right-side-up family member.

"G'day, mate! Nice afternoon. Can't hang around… Bye!" And was gone.

Although I had had my lens pointed at the perched bird, the action was so fast, and unexpected, that I didn't get the shutter button depressed until after the joyful collision. By then the adolescent had braked hard and thrown a u-turn. Never mind: wildlife photographers now have ways of overcoming such problems.



The image is here for only one reason: to record my delight in being able — at long last! — to capture sudden action.

No commentary here about IQ, DR, AF… this post is about how one photographer was introduced to pre-continuous shooting (call it what you will) which is arguably the mid-2020s’ boldest step forward for wildlife photographers of all brand persuasions.

… David
 
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White-tailed eagle. DPP4 only on defaults apart from Shadow and Highlight sliders.

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Osprey struggling with a big fish, very far.

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My impression on focusing performance over large expanses of water for raptors was actually "not really amazing". The light was challenging, the distances generally large, but the focus kept skidding off the target a bit too much for my taste--I did not have the Nikon 600 TC with me to compare. I was using the hood from Nikon 600TC (it fits), maybe that was affecting things.
 
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In Jan Wegeners setup video he recommended getting the case settings off of auto and using minus adjustments for the two options. Said it improves stickiness.
 
In Jan Wegeners setup video he recommended getting the case settings off of auto and using minus adjustments for the two options. Said it improves stickiness.
Right, I'd seen his or someone else's advice on that and I think when I was copying around the settings, I may have wiped those off and reverted to Auto. Absolutely worth trying, many thanks!
 
In Jan Wegener's setup video he recommended getting the case settings off of auto and using minus adjustments for the two options. Said it improves stickiness.
I'll recommend spending US$20 on Jan's downloadable booklet on setting up the R5ii. Money well spent.

In addition to the booklet, Jan and Glenn also include a camera settings file (xxx.CSD) that can be loaded into one's own R5ii to make it into the same camera as theirs!

My understanding is that Jan Wegener and Glenn Bartley are birding in Far North Queensland (FNQ) at present, presumably preparing future content for their YouTube Bird Photography Show.
 
To give you an update, I have now returned the RF 600mm F4 and will be only keeping a 100-500mm Zoom with my Canon R5 Mk 2.

The reasons for returning were:

1. It is big, in fact it is one inch longer without the hood and the hood is huge, easily extra two inches on that of a Nikon 600mm F4 TC.

2. This is a real kicker: I have found that in my lightly used copy, it would fairly regularly refuse to move the focus electronically. It happens sometimes directly after switching on the camera or, pretty regularly, when focusing far, then close, and then far again. The latter would not work until I pump the back button many times, change the aperture, go to another preset, it could take half a minute of fiddling to get it to focus. It especially refused to budge if there was no obvious subject in the field of view. Now, before you say it is just this copy, it may be worse than usual, however, the shop people have confirmed that the Canon RF 400 and 600 have dual motors and R5 (even Mark 2) cannot 100% reliably drive them. It is likely that R3 can and most certainly R1 will be able to. This means this is not uncommon and one just has to live with it. Now, I've checked that the big Z Nikons both focus instantly wherever you point them, to me that Canon behaviour felt like a major downgrade.

The reason for not returning would have been excellent photos _when the body+lens worked_--I do think that my RF 600mm was better than Nikon 600mm TC.

I have now replaced this RF 600mm lens with a new Nikon 400mm F2.8 TC Z S.
 
To give you an update, I have now returned the RF 600mm F4 and will be only keeping a 100-500mm Zoom with my Canon R5 Mk 2.

The reasons for returning were:

1. It is big, in fact it is one inch longer without the hood and the hood is huge, easily extra two inches on that of a Nikon 600mm F4 TC.

2. This is a real kicker: I have found that in my lightly used copy, it would fairly regularly refuse to move the focus electronically. It happens sometimes directly after switching on the camera or, pretty regularly, when focusing far, then close, and then far again. The latter would not work until I pump the back button many times, change the aperture, go to another preset, it could take half a minute of fiddling to get it to focus. It especially refused to budge if there was no obvious subject in the field of view. Now, before you say it is just this copy, it may be worse than usual, however, the shop people have confirmed that the Canon RF 400 and 600 have dual motors and R5 (even Mark 2) cannot 100% reliably drive them. It is likely that R3 can and most certainly R1 will be able to. This means this is not uncommon and one just has to live with it. Now, I've checked that the big Z Nikons both focus instantly wherever you point them, to me that Canon behaviour felt like a major downgrade.

The reason for not returning would have been excellent photos _when the body+lens worked_--I do think that my RF 600mm was better than Nikon 600mm TC.

I have now replaced this RF 600mm lens with a new Nikon 400mm F2.8 TC Z S.

The 100-500 also has two motors. I am confident that is not the reason.
 
The 100-500 also has two motors. I am confident that is not the reason.
OK, what you are saying is what I was told was incorrect and the "slightly" used RF 600 F4 was faulty? Are you confident that a) a brand new one won't have this issue and b) once purchased, it won't develop the same defect over time?

Thanks!
 
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