continuous focus bird photography

[DRwyoming]

Unless I have misread this thread: I use BBAF, usually with single point AF and always continue to press the BBAF button rather than releasing it, as unless it is a large, still bird, there is often movement. Is the suggestion that Iit is better to release when it is a fairly still bird and if so, what is the advantage?

Well the OPs posted problem was focus jumping to a branch or other image element instead of staying on the bird. If the bird is stationary then when using BBAF there can be some advantage to releasing the AF-ON which fixes the focus in that particular situation. Basically if you deactivate the AF system by releasing the AF-ON button then the focus can't jump to some other element in the frame.

But like you, I generally keep pressing the AF-ON button to keep the AF system activated with a single point right on the bird's eye since small birds tend to twitch a lot or glance in different directions and if image size is large in the frame (magnification relatively high) those small changes can make or break focus on the eye. And of course all of this is in the context of stationary, usually perched or ground feeding birds, as I'll generally use Group or one of the smaller Dynamic Area modes for BIF but will obviously keep the AF system activated while shooting moving subjects.

 

[Sharon Artley]

No right or wrong answer here Sharon.
If you’re shooting a static subject with a large and heavy supertele handheld I learned it’s often better to release the BBAF button once you acquire focus.
By doing so you prevent the camera from focussing ‘somewhere else’ due to movement of the rig.
FTR I am a really strong guy working out three times a week in the gym but I’m not able to keep the rig thát steady that I can ‘pin’ the focuspoint exactly on the subject where I want it for prolonged time.
So MY way is to lift, aim, focus, once focus acquired, let go of the BBAF button, recompose and fire (while keeping an eye on focus and refocussing when needed.)
Like I said I do this with non-moving subjects.
For moving subjects I keep BBAF activated during the burst.

A nice read on BBAF

What is Back Button Focus and Why You Should be Using It

photographylife.com

Well, I exercise too, but as a 5ft nothing, slim woman, don't have your strength! I also hand hold, but use a mono or tripod as circumstances allow. As with you, I always keep BBAF activated for moving subjects, but may try your technique with static ones. Thanks.

 

[Sharon Artley]

Well the OPs posted problem was focus jumping to a branch or other image element instead of staying on the bird. If the bird is stationary then when using BBAF there can be some advantage to releasing the AF-ON which fixes the focus in that particular situation. Basically if you deactivate the AF system by releasing the AF-ON button then the focus can't jump to some other element in the frame.

But like you, I generally keep pressing the AF-ON button to keep the AF system activated with a single point right on the bird's eye since small birds tend to twitch a lot or glance in different directions and if image size is large in the frame (magnification relatively high) those small changes can make or break focus on the eye. And of course all of this is in the context of stationary, usually perched or ground feeding birds, as I'll generally use Group or one of the smaller Dynamic Area modes for BIF but will obviously keep the AF system activated while shooting moving subjects.

I also keep focus on the eye. I think it's a matter of horses for courses and trying what works best for you. Thank you.

 

[gbodave]

It's your decision bearing in mind your knowledge of bird habits and what going to work in the circumstances you face. Even if the bird is "fairly still" there's a possibility for movement and if that movement occurs as you press the shutter focus may not be what's wanted. Now, we all know that birds like herons and cormorants frequently stand in one spot for hours and there's no movement that affects the distance between the camera and the bird. So for all that time you could press once, let go and take hundreds of shots.

I try and take the simplest approach in all situations so I keep the button pressed all the time, take my static shots and when said heron or cormorant takes off I retain focus without having to do any other button pressing. So, really I keep the button pressed for any wildlife shot, big static bird, deer or small birds and animals.

 

[Sharon Artley]

It's your decision bearing in mind your knowledge of bird habits and what going to work in the circumstances you face. Even if the bird is "fairly still" there's a possibility for movement and if that movement occurs as you press the shutter focus may not be what's wanted. Now, we all know that birds like herons and cormorants frequently stand in one spot for hours and there's no movement that affects the distance between the camera and the bird. So for all that time you could press once, let go and take hundreds of shots.

I try and take the simplest approach in all situations so I keep the button pressed all the time, take my static shots and when said heron or cormorant takes off I retain focus without having to do any other button pressing. So, really I keep the button pressed for any wildlife shot, big static bird, deer or small birds and animals.

To date, this is what I have done. I may give releasing a try on subjects where, if I miss the shot, it won't matter and see how that works. But of course, my muscle memory may just kick in!

 

[Madriver1]

Sometimes you are just in the right place at the right time.View attachment 8333View attachment 8333

 

[DavidLB703]

what is your Focus Tracking with lock-on set to? Maybe something is getting between the bird and the camera and it locking onto that to quickly? have you done any fine tune focus adjustment to make sure that you are not front or back focused? I cant imagine there is anything that would cause it to just change focus when the shutter is pressed. Also do you have the shuttle set to AF activation off, so only the AF-on button is controlling autofocus and not the shutter as well?

What is the correct setting? This answer has me more confused than before.

 

[DavidLB703]

What is the correct setting? This answer has me more confused than before.

i.e. what is the "shuttle?"

 

[DRwyoming]

i.e. what is the "shuttle?"

that's a typo for 'shutter'...

What is the correct setting? This answer has me more confused than before.

There is no universal 'correct' setting. If you'll be tracking one subject and that subject might fly past other things that could grab focus including other potential subjects but you want to stay locked on to the original subject then set the AF Tracking Lock-On to a high setting like 4 or 5. If you want to be able to rapidly switch between multiple subjects like picking out different birds in a group that is swarming around then set the AF Tracking Lock-On to a low setting like 1 or 2 or sometimes even turn it off. Basically the higher you set the AF-Lock On number the longer the focus will stay at or near the original distance which is better for tracking subjects that might momentarily fly behind a tree or bush or other bird but the slower the camera will be to jump to a new subject if that's what you want.

When in doubt setting AF-Lock On to 3 is a pretty good starting point for tracking a bird in flight but play with the settings and adjust as necessary for your shooting style and what you're trying to do.

 

[DavidLB703]

that's a typo for 'shutter'...

There is no universal 'correct' setting. If you'll be tracking one subject and that subject might fly past other things that could grab focus including other potential subjects but you want to stay locked on to the original subject then set the AF Tracking Lock-On to a high setting like 4 or 5. If you want to be able to rapidly switch between multiple subjects like picking out different birds in a group that is swarming around then set the AF Tracking Lock-On to a low setting like 1 or 2 or sometimes even turn it off. Basically the higher you set the AF-Lock On number the longer the focus will stay at or near the original distance which is better for tracking subjects that might momentarily fly behind a tree or bush or other bird but the slower the camera will be to jump to a new subject if that's what you want.

When in doubt setting AF-Lock On to 3 is a pretty good starting point for tracking a bird in flight but play with the settings and adjust as necessary for your shooting style and what you're trying to do.

"Shutter!" Duh. Thank you!!!

 

[Neil H.]

Hi! I suspect you may be shooting in low light where most AF can struggle. I do not think anyone has suggested that you try "bumping focus" with the back button if you are having trouble. If I am having trouble, I keep a finger on the focus ring on the lens and deliberately knock it slightly out of focus. I then concentrate to get the single focus point on the bird's eye. If the focus misbehaves I "bump" the back button and often the bird jumps into focus. Then leave the back button alone - recompose and fire away. For movement, action or BIF - group AF is the preference of most D850 shooters. You can program the multipurpose button (next to Af/on button) for group AF. Then you can move from single point on the Af/on button to group AF on the multipurpose button in fraction of a second. For BIF, having the focus point roughly on the top third in the direction the bird is flying, and bumping like crazy with group AF active is good way to lock on as the bird approaches. When in range (or when focus is locked on) - hold both shutter and back button down and let it rip! Even if focus is not properly locked on when you start shooting it can do so in the middle of a shooting burst.

 

[david dono]

thank you all , given me a lot of useful information and things to think about. I get the focus on the view finder no problems, its just the change in focus on firing the shutter, and losing that"focus" for the image . Seems camera is looking for a new target by the action of depressing the shutter, if I do not depress the shutter the original focus stays in the view-finder. Hope that makes sense. Maybe I am asking too much of the system. Happens in good light too. Have tried single and D9. Focus point seems to be in right position.

 

[Thern]

thank you all , given me a lot of useful information and things to think about. I get the focus on the view finder no problems, its just the change in focus on firing the shutter, and losing that"focus" for the image . Seems camera is looking for a new target by the action of depressing the shutter, if I do not depress the shutter the original focus stays in the view-finder. Hope that makes sense. Maybe I am asking too much of the system. Happens in good light too. Have tried single and D9. Focus point seems to be in right position.

looks like you didn’t switch focus activation to off
Look in CSM => Autofocus=> AF activation
Select it and select AF-ON only=> enable

 

[david dono]

thanks but its all set up correctly

 

[DRwyoming]

thanks but its all set up correctly

The only other common thing would be slightly shifting the camera position as you release the shutter especially if the bird is pretty small in the frame where it doesn't take much camera motion to move the focus point off your target. Many photographers jab at the shutter release with the tip of their index finger which often translates to camera movement. I lay my finger across part of the camera body and part of the shutter release and then gently roll my finger to release the shutter. This was something I was taught many years ago but really helps in terms of not moving or shaking the camera as the shutter is released. Of course other good hand holding (or tripod) techniques also come into play like keeping elbows tucked in tight and cradling the lens with your left hand.

Maybe that's what you're already doing and something else is happening to change your focus at the last second, but camera motion or camera shake resulting from an overly aggressive shutter release jab is pretty common but easy to tame with some practice.

 

[gordon_g]

I would say post some images straight out of the camera with the metadata available, so we can see focus Point at shutter release.

 

[david dono]

The only other common thing would be slightly shifting the camera position as you release the shutter especially if the bird is pretty small in the frame where it doesn't take much camera motion to move the focus point off your target. Many photographers jab at the shutter release with the tip of their index finger which often translates to camera movement. I lay my finger across part of the camera body and part of the shutter release and then gently roll my finger to release the shutter. This was something I was taught many years ago but really helps in terms of not moving or shaking the camera as the shutter is released. Of course other good hand holding (or tripod) techniques also come into play like keeping elbows tucked in tight and cradling the lens with your left hand.

Maybe that's what you're already doing and something else is happening to change your focus at the last second, but camera motion or camera shake resulting from an overly aggressive shutter release jab is pretty common but easy to tame with some practice.

From all of the above I think maybe this could be the issue-operator error usually explains most things!

 

[CharlieR]

I have a D500 and I constantly wondered (as David Dano did)--what in the heck am I doing wrong? I have just learned )) that I don't have to continually press the BBF when shooting small birds in trees--I acquire focus, fire a short burst, re-acquire focus, another short burst, and so on. Only for BIF do I continuously hold down the BBF (in AF-C) and fire away (using the 25 point focus grid). That has done wonders for my bird photography.

Charlie
Simpsonville, SC USA

Nikon D500
Nikon Z6