Fill flash for Travel Photography

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Beware of different colour temperatures when using flash in daylight. Grey days are OK but in sunlight I carry CTO gels. Sounds to me that you are not wanting fill flsh, but to actually light shaded areas and a flash will spoil the ambience of the scene no matter how much you diffuse it.
It was mainly fill flash for dark shadows that I was looking at but I’m learning so much from all the comments! There’s a whole new lighting out there! I think you need a yellow or blue gel depending on the type of daylight.
 
It was mainly fill flash for dark shadows that I was looking at but I’m learning so much from all the comments! There’s a whole new lighting out there! I think you need a yellow or blue gel depending on the type of daylight.

Over here in the UK I can get away with no gels when it is a grey day to bright cloudy. When the Sun is out and the light is warmer I have 1/4, 1/2 and 1/1 CTO gels and one of them, or a combination will cover it.
 
I know this is mainly a wildlife group but I am sure many of you mix the wildlife with travel photography. I often find myself in busy markets with very challenging lighting, mixture of light and dark shadows and was wondering what experience any of you have with easy to carry fill flash to help with shadows and dark lighting situations
I usually take one of several SB 400 units, fits in my trouser or shirt pocket, so tiny yet incredibly handy and super effective.

DF or D850 50mm 1.4 Ziess, and 28-300 with a SB 400 WOW.
 
I never use flash for editorial work, well, maybe that one time. I see editorial "photojournalism style" as fairly similar to travel work, but I've also traveled quite a bit for work and pleasure. Most of my work is in very challenging lighting situations - dark work shops, inside of boats, mid-day on the water. Not to say flash is bad, just that I've learned how to work around not having it.

First and foremost, it helps to really learn to read light. And sometimes it takes real attention to see what and where the light is, and then find a way to work with it. That doesn't always work (mid-day, middle of summer is always going to look like crap, usually).

I know people use flash quite a bit for their work, but it's just a bit too "loud" for how I work. Not that I'm pretending to be invisible, but I also don't want to draw attention to myself unnecessarily - which means "no flash".
 
I never use flash for editorial work, well, maybe that one time. I see editorial "photojournalism style" as fairly similar to travel work, but I've also traveled quite a bit for work and pleasure. Most of my work is in very challenging lighting situations - dark work shops, inside of boats, mid-day on the water. Not to say flash is bad, just that I've learned how to work around not having it.

First and foremost, it helps to really learn to read light. And sometimes it takes real attention to see what and where the light is, and then find a way to work with it. That doesn't always work (mid-day, middle of summer is always going to look like crap, usually).

I know people use flash quite a bit for their work, but it's just a bit too "loud" for how I work. Not that I'm pretending to be invisible, but I also don't want to draw attention to myself unnecessarily - which means "no flash".
Thanks.
 
I usually take one of several SB 400 units, fits in my trouser or shirt pocket, so tiny yet incredibly handy and super effective.

DF or D850 50mm 1.4 Ziess, and 28-300 with a SB 400 WOW.
Yes, this is what I plan to do. Very small flash for very tricky situations
 
Yes, this is what I plan to do. Very small flash for very tricky situations
Decades ago Ken Rockwell raved about this tiny tiny flash he loves and uses all the time, so i bought one for its size and effectiveness, I loved it so much i eventually as a spare bought a second hand one in mint condition for $75 when Nikon said its out of production.

Yes there are fancy newer high tech flashes etc but for what it does specifically its perfect. I mean it makes my 28-300 look amazing, as we know good light makes a lot lenses look very much the same.

I have used these for travel especially, street photography, nature photography all sort of things especially fill light, i usually put a additional diffuser or deflector on it for special effects.

I have several SB910 units lots of LED adjustable panel lights etc etc but for everyday fill and boost for just fixing things, its a home run, its in my pocket or kit always when every i take along a camera.

Only an opinion

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I use the Godox V860III with my Sony A1 for fill in dark forest situations....if subject tolerates. It really isn't much of a pocket item unles you have those big cargo pants.
 
I used filling flash in FP-mode (with shutter 1/1000, 1/2000) for example, for the birds. It worked excellent,ly you even couldn't see that the flash was used. I also used it to lighten other animals like leopard in the shade - also worked well. And as I was attending one wildlife phototour we were practicing using a flash for sunset pictures with an object (like a leopard on the tree with sunset behind) but here you go fully manual. Yes, I know, you can shoot silhouette but depending on the pose - to liighten a bit brought also very good pictures. When you fill-flash on the subject dunring a cloudy day - the background wil be more dramatic becasue it will be darker.
You can also use a phone-light, a torch or the lights of a car.
 
I used filling flash in FP-mode (with shutter 1/1000, 1/2000) for example, for the birds. It worked excellent,ly you even couldn't see that the flash was used. I also used it to lighten other animals like leopard in the shade - also worked well. And as I was attending one wildlife phototour we were practicing using a flash for sunset pictures with an object (like a leopard on the tree with sunset behind) but here you go fully manual. Yes, I know, you can shoot silhouette but depending on the pose - to liighten a bit brought also very good pictures. When you fill-flash on the subject dunring a cloudy day - the background wil be more dramatic becasue it will be darker.
You can also use a phone-light, a torch or the lights of a car.
Thanks. I like the idea of the fill flash also for wildlife provided it doesn’t disturb the animal
 
When people are photographed and their eyes have no catchlights they appear dead. Compare images where the catchlights are present for people and for mammals and the difference is readily apparent. With a single flash or reflector one avoids the artificial look of have multiple catchlight in eyes as one sees in many low budget TV shows.
 
On-board or shoe mount flash, "P" mode/Matrix metering...center weighted should work as well... TTLBL flash...as close to point and shoot as you can get with DSLRS. The camera will do its best to balance the flash and ambient light. Works well...I used it for the first time at my Grandson's wedding. Otherwise, "A" Mode, Exposure Compensation -1.7-2.0, adjust as necessary. Word is, most 3rd party flashes' default is TTLBL.
 
On-board or shoe mount flash, "P" mode/Matrix metering...center weighted should work as well... TTLBL flash...as close to point and shoot as you can get with DSLRS. The camera will do its best to balance the flash and ambient light. Works well...I used it for the first time at my Grandson's wedding. Otherwise, "A" Mode, Exposure Compensation -1.7-2.0, adjust as necessary. Word is, most 3rd party flashes' default is TTLBL.
I can relate to A or P mode with the minus compensation, it can make many lenses look very good or the same in outcome sharpness and quality. I guess no matter how smart technology is the fundamentals of photography are still dependent on light as the key asset.

Positioning a flash on the ground well hidden at a water fall drinking hole with settings very very low you can hardly tell it flashed is just enough to add that kiss light in the eye, it can be rewarding.
 
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