Which units?
Flash for Indoor Photography
- Thread starter dmb8021
- Start date
If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).
Hmm….not sure I agree with you. Bouncing the light solves most harsh light and shadow issues, even if flash is mounted directly in the hotshoe. Not clear if “on camera flash” in your reply includes use of a flash bracket, but in my experience, a flash bracket to keep the flash up from the lens axis and located over the lens in vertical shots combined with bouncing off ceiling, wall or flash modifier solves all harsh light/shadow issues. And, how do you swap for a “stronger bulb” if you’re not in your home? And there is no light bulb strong enough to overpower the sun if outdoors.
As for 1.8 glass - I keep hearing that option repeated. In my experience, fast glass offers no benefit in circumstances where depth of field is desired. Have you successfully shot a group photo wide open with all subjects focused? I haven’t, but always willing to learn.
Btw - please don’t misunderstand - I would always prefer available, natural light whether indoors or out, but there are too many times when that is simply not a viable option. I urge you not to shortchange flash shooting. There are times when it is the best option.
Last edited:
Good evening Rick,
You have a point regarding on camera flash. I just bought the Godox V1 with the dome on it, and for the first time I was pleased with the flash.
Until I had the V1, I had Nikon and Godox V860II flashes, and I HATED it. The V860 ever more.. including with a Garry Fung modifier on it. I used it for table shots on live events, it was ugly.
The Godox V1 + the Dome is a game changer.
Regarding faster glass.
For an adult group shot it’s almost impossible to use f/1.8, but head shots it is.
Basically its not a one size fits all. It all depends in the situation.
I had a job to photograph a VIP in his house, I was not allowed to flash. I used the 50/1.2 @f/1.2 with some ISO, in his dim lighting situation. I tried backing up for more DOF and shot in DX for the AF to nail each shot. But that was a rare situation, for me…
For a freind, new to pro photography, I ordered him 2 AD300 Pro’s with 48” umbrellas, positioned at both corners in his dining/living room, with the Godox V1 on camera as a trigger and fill, for his family parties on the upcoming Chanuka.
I like the Nikon SB 5000 speedlight. It works well with the Z9 metering system and I don't worry about camera firmware updates interfering with function. Balanced fill in flash becomes automatic and can be very helpful. I have photographed interesting trees from inside and it can bring out structures that otherwise may be hidden in the shadows.
Ah! That wasn't clear in your original post. On camera flash using a point and shoot is simply terrible. No argument there!
Using a Z30 or Z8 as point and shoot. Whichever was quicker to grab and hand it for a teenager
Flyboy
Active member
I just bought a new-to me Nikon SB 400. Marvelous, simple, compact, lightweight flash. I used it right after I received it for a friend's wedding , and it worked marvelously! I also have a little Altura flash I got for ~$25. It hasn't stumbled in the 2-3 years I've owned it. Of course, I have an old SB600 and a SB800 that still keep trucking...I think a good basic flash from a camera's manufacturer is never a mistake. 
Good luck!
Good luck!