Got a new Z 4/600 TC: some questions

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

1. I've got the Zemlin cap -- a quality level so high Nikon (and Sony and Canon) should be embarrassed by the lens caps they provide :) I have opted to use the Nikon hood.
2. Is my second TC lens; I forget about 99% of the time to lock the switch; Nikon might attempt to explain themselves on the lock; what's it actually for?
3. Don't own a beanbag; if for the car, I use, as per Steve's suggestion, a piece of pipe insulation. Works like a charm.

Congrats on the new lens. You're gonna love it!

Thanks for the tip with the pipe insulation. I'd never have thought of that. I'll have a look next time I'll visit a hardware store. Need to go there anyway.
 
Last Saturday I got my new Z 4/600 TC. I haven’t used it yet as I am waiting for the insurance company to confirm coverage, I expect an email this week.
I have never broken any expensive equipment but with this one, I am leaning towards the paranoid 🙂

I have a few questions.

1). Do you use a third-party lens cap? For my 800PF I have a lens cap from a German manufacturer. The cap from Nikon is not the best in my opinion. Removing it can be quite the faff and I can see myself losing a shot if things have to happen fast in the field and I am fumbling around with the lens cap, especially with the cord. Maybe I am just clumsy. For the 600TC the lens cap seems to have a much better design and I can remove it very quickly. Not sure why Nikon hasn’t used the same lens cap for both lenses, they are both about the same price. It’s the lens hood where the price difference is huge (about 199 Euros vs. 679(!!!) Euros).

Do you use the Nikon lens cap with the 600TC or did you get a separate one? I think in North America the ones from Zemlin are popular(I can’t find them anywhere in Germany but there are similar solutions). Expensive piece of plastic but at least for the 800PF it’s a huge difference in speed when removing it.

2) In the manual, Nikon says: “After changing focal lengths, be sure to latch the teleconverter switch lock to prevent unintended operation of the teleconverter switch.”

To me that sounds like a good way to miss a shot if I shoot at 840mm and the animal suddenly gets closer and the TC is locked. It seems that it’s not easy to slide the switch by mistake. In my Canon DSLR times, I had the 4/200-400 TC for a while and I never accidentally switched the TC on or off.
Do you lock the TC?

3). Have you used the lens with the Lens Coat Jr. bean bag (the lightest and smallest one). I think it should be enough, even though there is a bigger one. The reason for the small one is hiking, especially in the mountains but also longer distances in flatter terrain. If I am already carrying the 600TC or the 800PF and maybe a shorter lens like the 100-400 and a 2nd Z8, I do not want to carry a heavy bean bag weighing several kilograms, the lighter the better as long as it is good enough should I need one. I can always shoot handheld but for longer sessions, this becomes painful, even with the 800PF and more so with the noticeably heavier (and much bulkier) 600TC. Another photographer recommended buckwheat to fill the bean bag to keep the weight down a bit. I will try that.
The beanbag should be lighter than my Gitzo 3540L + Flexshooter Pro, otherwise I can just carry the tripod, but sometimes, especially in rocky terrain, a bean bean is easier to set up.


4) Anything else you would recommend for that lens that maybe is not obvious for someone who has not yet used it in the field?
I think Steve mentioned that sometimes it can be helpful to find a subject with 600 and then switch to 840. That makes sense to me, especially if the subject is moving around a lot.
Enjoy your lens! My ‘Bean Bag‘ is stuffed with an oversized on-closeout down vest bought specifically for the purpose. Works quite well and light as a feather (pun intended).
 
Also note this quote from the manual if you're getting one.
"Due to the design of the vibration reduction system, the lens may rattle when shaken. This does not indicate a malfunction."

I read the manual before I got the lens. Glad I did, otherwise that noise would have caused a short panic attack when I took out the lens from the bag it came with :)
I wonder why the manual doesn't mention the much louder and more unusual rattle of the focus lens group when it's not powered (the focus group is held in place by electromagnetic forces)
I guess people could be really concerned about that clunky noise.
 
I wonder why the manual doesn't mention the much louder and more unusual rattle of the focus lens group when it's not powered (the focus group is held in place by electromagnetic forces)
I guess people could be really concerned about that clunky noise.

On page 9 it says:
"Due to the design of the focus system, shaking the lens while the camera is off may cause it to rattle; this does not indicate a malfunction."

from the English PDF I got from Nikon's website:

Do you mean that?
I am actually not sure what causes the clunking noise I hear, the VR or the focus system or both together. I took a few test shots yesterday and everything seems fine. And wow, the lens is super sharp, both with and without the 1.4x. That was of course expected, but I am still fascinated by how good it is.
 
On page 9 it says:
"Due to the design of the focus system, shaking the lens while the camera is off may cause it to rattle; this does not indicate a malfunction."

from the English PDF I got from Nikon's website:

Do you mean that?
I am actually not sure what causes the clunking noise I hear, the VR or the focus system or both together. I took a few test shots yesterday and everything seems fine. And wow, the lens is super sharp, both with and without the 1.4x. That was of course expected, but I am still fascinated by how good it is.
Yes, that's what I mean. It's written in the Names and Functions section, where I didn't expect it.
What you hear is certainly the moving of the focus elements, since the rattling of the VR element is much harder to notice.
 
Yes, that's what I mean. It's written in the Names and Functions section, where I didn't expect it.
What you hear is certainly the moving of the focus elements, since the rattling of the VR element is much harder to notice.

I searched for "malfunction". This is indeed hard to see. Overall the manuals, though quite complete, are sometimes a bit confusing or lacking details.

For my Z8, in addition to the Nikon manual, I use Steve's setup guide and Thom Hogans (1300 pages!!!) which provide much more detail and much better explanations.

I also have set my Z8 to English and I read the English manual despite being a German native speaker. That makes it easier to find and apply information I find online.
 
Congratulations on a great lens! I think you'll love it, especially the versatility of the inbuilt TC.

For you questions:
Lenscap: Whenever I'm out and about it simply stays of. The hood is long enough to protect the front element.
Switch: I never lock it, do not see a reason to. It has never inadvertently flipped.
Bean bag: From the car I do What Steven said above, pipe insulation. Works great. When hiking I usually carry a tripod or put the lens on top of my backpack or vest stuffed into a small bag.

I did replace the lens foot with one from Hejnar photo. The nice thing is it has a QD socket so you can use it with a black rapid (or similar) sling. This works very well for me, the lens is nicely balanced with a Z9 and I don't mind it even for long hikes.
 
Congratulations on your new lens!
Can recommend Zemlin hoods, I use one for my 600 F4 GM and it's great. Especially the shorter hoods, make the lens much more flexible.

Of course you have to be careful with the new lens, but remember its a tool ;)
 
1. I do have a third party cap/hood, but have gone back to using the original one. I chose a shorter third party hood so that I could keep the hood in the shooting position when transporting it in the bag. I found that the weight of the camera/lens pressing down on the hood would cause the hood to push past the mounting ring and be stuck on the other side. A real pain to correct out in the field especially if you are shooting from a monopod there is nothing solid to hold the camera/lens. I have found the original hood really easy & quick to remove rotate, and put back on. I just loosen the screw with my thumb and forefinger, with a flip/twist of the wrist it rotates s180 deg, then place it right back on still holding it with the knob and tighten it right back up. The leather cap gets removed when I take the lens from the bag, placed in the bag and stays there until the camera/lens goes back in the bag with some exceptions of course. I really didn't like using the hard third party cap especially if the hood was in the shooting position. I felt uncomfortable blindly trying to place the cap on lens, sliding it around on the lens trying to locate the correct position. If I really feel the need for a cap with the hood in the shooting position I just slide the leather cap on.

2. I very seldom if ever latch the TE. I think that is just lawyer talk in case someone misses a shot and sees a chance to get rich.

3. With this you are way out of my league.
 
Last Saturday I got my new Z 4/600 TC. I haven’t used it yet as I am waiting for the insurance company to confirm coverage, I expect an email this week.
I have never broken any expensive equipment but with this one, I am leaning towards the paranoid 🙂

I have a few questions.

1). Do you use a third-party lens cap? For my 800PF I have a lens cap from a German manufacturer. The cap from Nikon is not the best in my opinion. Removing it can be quite the faff and I can see myself losing a shot if things have to happen fast in the field and I am fumbling around with the lens cap, especially with the cord. Maybe I am just clumsy. For the 600TC the lens cap seems to have a much better design and I can remove it very quickly. Not sure why Nikon hasn’t used the same lens cap for both lenses, they are both about the same price. It’s the lens hood where the price difference is huge (about 199 Euros vs. 679(!!!) Euros).

Do you use the Nikon lens cap with the 600TC or did you get a separate one? I think in North America the ones from Zemlin are popular(I can’t find them anywhere in Germany but there are similar solutions). Expensive piece of plastic but at least for the 800PF it’s a huge difference in speed when removing it.

2) In the manual, Nikon says: “After changing focal lengths, be sure to latch the teleconverter switch lock to prevent unintended operati of the teleconverter switch.”

To me that sounds like a good way to miss a shot if I shoot at 840mm and the animal suddenly gets closer and the TC is locked. It seems that it’s not easy to slide the switch by mistake. In my Canon DSLR times, I had the 4/200-400 TC for a while and I never accidentally switched the TC on or off.
Do you lock the TC?

3). Have you used the lens with the Lens Coat Jr. bean bag (the lightest and smallest one). I think it should be enough, even though there is a bigger one. The reason for the small one is hiking, especially in the mountains but also longer distances in flatter terrain. If I am already carrying the 600TC or the 800PF and maybe a shorter lens like the 100-400 and a 2nd Z8, I do not want to carry a heavy bean bag weighing several kilograms, the lighter the better as long as it is good enough should I need one. I can always shoot handheld but for longer sessions, this becomes painful, even with the 800PF and more so with the noticeably heavier (and much bulkier) 600TC. Another photographer recommended buckwheat to fill the bean bag to keep the weight down a bit. I will try that.
The beanbag should be lighter than my Gitzo 3540L + Flexshooter Pro, otherwise I can just carry the tripod, but sometimes, especially in rocky terrain, a bean bean is easier to set up.


4) Anything else you would recommend for that lens that maybe is not obvious for someone who has not yet used it in the field?
I think Steve mentioned that sometimes it can be helpful to find a subject with 600 and then switch to 840. That makes sense to me, especially if the subject is moving around a lot.
Thanks for starting an interesting thread. I am getting really close to laying down money for a TC lens although am agonizing over whether to go with the faster 400 or the 600 which is the focal length I usually use for birds. Maybe I enjoy the torture a bit since I have been dragging it out🤷‍♂️. I am mostly using my Z8 with a Z 600 f6.3 or 100-400.

But, my real question, and you got me thinking about it, is about insurance. I am an amateur and have never had a piece of equipment this expensive so never really insured anything. I have been working under the assumption that I would probably spend more on insurance than a repair would cost. Especially given the possibility of loss I am rethinking that.

Can anyone recommend a company to insure an expensive lens in the US? I haven’t found any good options in my limited research.

whoops, I just noticed there is a whole new thread about this. I will check that out.
 
Last edited:
Can anyone recommend a company to insure an expensive lens in the US? I haven’t found any good options in my limited research.
Hello @AlexK! There’s been a great deal of discussion on BCG Forums about insurance for photographic gear.

Please review the discussion at the link below and post any follow up questions there.

 
Had the lens out last Thursday for the first time. Didn't create any masterpieces but for a first test-ride at a park in Munich, it was great fun. The lens is awesome and the TC is indeed a game-changer.
The lens is heavier, bulkier and longer than the 800PF (which I will keep for hiking, flying, long handheld sessions and whenever I need to bring the weight down) but that was expected and is simply physics in the end. The 600TC is really light given what it is, I quickly got used to the TC lever and it is really, really sharp (if the Z8 can focus correctly - or I am using it correctly!).

Nikon has created a masterpiece here (which we would expect, given the price). I hope that Canon and Sony also add a TC to their future prime lenses or come up with something else, like a removable TC with a lever which one could use with multiple lenses. Not sure if this is doable but I am not a lens-engineer.

Now I'll start setting up new perches in my garden. For shooting from a hide, the 600TC will be the perfect lens for autumn and winter, I normally get a lot of birds in the garden.

Unfortunately I hurt my back today. Nothing serious but it hurts moving a big lens handheld or taking it out from the backpack. It should be OK in a few days. Maybe already tomorrow morning when I hope to get out. If the back is not better, I may do some macro work, the most important this is to get out.

I am looking forward to using the 600TC a lot, it really is a lot of fun.
 
Last edited:
I am sorry to hear about your back and I feel your pain. Around the same time I got my 600TC I also developed a major case of “tennis elbow” or is this case as my wife liked to call it “big glass elbow”. So I was in the same boat for a while (right at prime migration time too :(. ) it was not the glass that caused it, I was being dumb one day and caused it doing something else, but it did change my plans this spring for sure.
 
I am sorry to hear about your back and I feel your pain. Around the same time I got my 600TC I also developed a major case of “tennis elbow” or is this case as my wife liked to call it “big glass elbow”. So I was in the same boat for a while (right at prime migration time too :(. ) it was not the glass that caused it, I was being dumb one day and caused it doing something else, but it did change my plans this spring for sure.
Thanks. I hope you've fully recovered.

I was able to get out today and found a very cooperative Grey Heron. I regularly switched the TC on and off. That would have been a terrible faff with an external TC.
 
I was able to get out today and found a very cooperative Grey Heron. I regularly switched the TC on and off. That would have been a terrible faff with an external TC.
Being able to switch between 600/840 is invaluable. It adds 2 pounds, and some length, but its worth learning to manage it. I remember the parks along the river in Munich all the sunbather during the summer, just a few years back 1967. Things have probably changed since then....enjoy
 
I don't yet own one of the super prime telephotos but I do have the 800mm pf which presents similar practical use issues.

These lenses have a combination of heavy weight and prominent front glass element. I think special care needs to be taken to protect the front element from "the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune".

To me the Zemlin lens cap is really excellent. Those caps fit firmly and are solid and substantial. I feel very secure when the cap is on.

The lens hood is the second line of defense. It is much harder for anything nasty to reach the front element when the lens hood is on. I always make sure the lens hood is in place before I remove the lens cap.

I also endorse use of the Zemlin lens hoods. I use the two piece unit because it gives me some flexibility in hood length.

For storing and transporting the lens the Nikon case that comes with the lens is the absolute best. It is solidly protective and secure. I have not seen it in action with the 600mm f4 but I can store the 800 with the Z9 attached. I always use that case when transporting the 800 and I do it with the z9 attached. I have largely sworn off of air travel and I recognize the need to use backpacks for air travel. If I were to take this in the air I would be very concerned about weight on the front element and I would not keep the camera attached.

For handheld field use I have found use of shoulder straps very effective. I prefer the Holdfast straps but the Blackrapid straps also work. These lenses would be difficult to hand hold for a length of time but with the straps you can let the lens dangle on the strap and pick it up only when you are about to shoot. I can shoot all day that way.

I have also used a monopod with mixed results. The monopod certainly makes carrying and using the lens easier but I find I need to improve my technique because I find it harder to hold the camera steady on a monopod than handheld. Something to work on.

I love working the lens with a tripod and gimbal. If I am going to be at a location close to the vehicle I will use the 800 that way. That also allows me to have the 400mm f4.5 available to use handheld when I need flexibility for a closer shot.

My final caution is that whatever method you choose to support this lens make sure you have an effective safety tether.
 
Purchased a refurbished 600 TC recently and have a question for those who own it. The switch to engage the teleconverter works fine, but the lever wiggles a little. Is this play in the lever normal?
 
Purchased a refurbished 600 TC recently and have a question for those who own it. The switch to engage the teleconverter works fine, but the lever wiggles a little. Is this play in the lever normal?
Mine has very little play/wiggle. It wiggles very slightly with the finger laying on it ad im waiting for a shot but otherwise seems firm. So I guess you'd have to define "a little" as it could mean different things to different people.
 
Mine has very little play/wiggle. It wiggles very slightly with the finger laying on it ad im waiting for a shot but otherwise seems firm. So I guess you'd have to define "a little" as it could mean different things to different people.
It moves about an eighth (1/8) of an inch. When it is at the top (1x) it moves down toward the center. When is is down (1.4x) it moves up toward the center. In both cases about an 1/8 of an inch. It both cases it moves back to its original position when the lever is released. The wiggle is in just one direction.
 
I have Zemlin lens cap, Zemlin two-piece hood (same length as stock but easier to pack) and sometimes use just half of it. Also have Wimberley foot -- not exactly cushy but offers secure feel.
 
It moves about an eighth (1/8) of an inch. When it is at the top (1x) it moves down toward the center. When is is down (1.4x) it moves up toward the center. In both cases about an 1/8 of an inch. It both cases it moves back to its original position when the lever is released. The wiggle is in just one direction.
Yup, just measured mine...about an 8th of an inch play at the top and bottom. And only when touched/physically moved, not on its own (dosnt flop around). I'm going to assume that's normal until someone says otherwise as this is the only 600 f4 lens I've used with the built in TC so I know no different 😀
 
Back
Top