AlfC
Member
OK, thanks for that. Looks like I need to investigate the manual and menus more thoroughly. There is more to this camera than I realised! So much more to learn than with a DSLR and I used to think my D500 was complicated!
Is anyone exploring the Olympus OM-1 for birds and wildlife?
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fsi22
Member
I would say, the OM-1 manual is a must read. There’s so many options and hidden gems. It’s a very customisable camera.
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I considered using the front command dial for ISO. The problem was then what do I use for aperture?
Still, I would have the camera set up for one condition-white, black or neutral subject. Now C2 is for black and C4 is for white and whatever modification I made for one condition remains but does not affect the other conditions.
Still, I would have the camera set up for one condition-white, black or neutral subject. Now C2 is for black and C4 is for white and whatever modification I made for one condition remains but does not affect the other conditions.
AlfC
Member
I wondered about how to set aperture too. I think you could do it by assigning different functions for the dials according to which position the function lever is in. So if you want a fast birding set up (say assigned to C1) you could normally use function lever in position 1 where the front dial was to alter compensation and rear for shutter speed. Then if you found you had the wrong aperture (because of a lens change perhaps) you could change briefly to position 2 where the front lever was set to aperture (FNo). A simpler solution which might work just as well is your suggestion of setting compensation (or ISO) to one of the front buttons which are very easily found on the fly and leaving the dials at FNo and SS.
As fsi says, the OM 1 is a very customisable camera!
As fsi says, the OM 1 is a very customisable camera!
So far, I have both front buttons set to exp comp. Normally, I find the top button easier and my wife the bottom (my wife wants the cameras to be set up identically).
C3 is for PROcapture. The 100-400 will only do 25 f/s. I have not spent much time with PROcapture but I believe that I will have time to setup the proper exp compensation before invoking it.
C1 is unused. Originally, I had this set to 10 f/s mechanical shutter, but we have now abandoned that settings in favor or 20 f/s electronic in all cases.
Where we practice (Legg Lake in the Wittier Narrows area of L.A.) we may see a Egret (white), Red Wing Blackbird (black) and all manner of Canada Geese, ducks of all colors, pigeons and sea gulls to try to shoot in flight. Often the subjects require shortening the zoom occasionally to 100mm and often the full zoom is not enough.
My current setup for the 100-400
-------------------------------------
electronic shutter 20/f/s, 1/3200 ss 0.0 exp comp, f/6.3,
IS auto on camera, OFF on lens
OK button set to display AF area. Back command dial, rotate between single, small, all
EXP comp button toggles Subject Identification: Bird on/off
both front buttons exp comp
metering is center weighted
EVF set to 3. I normally shoot with LCD panel closed (for safety, I already shattered one.)
C1 not used
C2 above +1.3 exp comp (AF-ON button)
C3 above PROCapture 25 f/s 50 frames stored, max frames unlimited (AEL button)
C4 above -1.3 exp comp (ISO Button)
C3 is for PROcapture. The 100-400 will only do 25 f/s. I have not spent much time with PROcapture but I believe that I will have time to setup the proper exp compensation before invoking it.
C1 is unused. Originally, I had this set to 10 f/s mechanical shutter, but we have now abandoned that settings in favor or 20 f/s electronic in all cases.
Where we practice (Legg Lake in the Wittier Narrows area of L.A.) we may see a Egret (white), Red Wing Blackbird (black) and all manner of Canada Geese, ducks of all colors, pigeons and sea gulls to try to shoot in flight. Often the subjects require shortening the zoom occasionally to 100mm and often the full zoom is not enough.
My current setup for the 100-400
-------------------------------------
electronic shutter 20/f/s, 1/3200 ss 0.0 exp comp, f/6.3,
IS auto on camera, OFF on lens
OK button set to display AF area. Back command dial, rotate between single, small, all
EXP comp button toggles Subject Identification: Bird on/off
both front buttons exp comp
metering is center weighted
EVF set to 3. I normally shoot with LCD panel closed (for safety, I already shattered one.)
C1 not used
C2 above +1.3 exp comp (AF-ON button)
C3 above PROCapture 25 f/s 50 frames stored, max frames unlimited (AEL button)
C4 above -1.3 exp comp (ISO Button)
I might add that there are multiple ways to avoid the "hold" in the "push-hold-rotate" methodology that typically changes the exposure compensation. When you are not in a hurry, I like pushing the "OK" button, using the right multi-selector tab to get to "exp comp" and using the rear command dial to change "exp comp" Another is using the switch to change the command dial functions. The front command dial can be used to change "exp comp".
The issue is that when a bird takes off I have only an instant to catch the bird in a good pose because the bird seems to always turn away from me. I think I could fill a 10-terabyte disk with shots of birds flying away from me.
I need to be able to "lift-site-shoot" all in one smooth motion while adding "press" to change the "exp comp" depending on the color of the bird. My process becomes "lift-press-site-shoot"
The issue is that when a bird takes off I have only an instant to catch the bird in a good pose because the bird seems to always turn away from me. I think I could fill a 10-terabyte disk with shots of birds flying away from me.
I need to be able to "lift-site-shoot" all in one smooth motion while adding "press" to change the "exp comp" depending on the color of the bird. My process becomes "lift-press-site-shoot"
Pauhana
New member
Canon gear has been sold and new OM-1 and 100-400 to start Ordered today. This has been a long process to move from Canon. Looking forward to learning a New system.
I have found it a long process and many of the "help" articles/videos are based on the 300f4 or 150-400 f 4.5 lenses that do not pose the same high ISO issues. If you need help my email is [email protected]
Tom
eaj101
Well-known member
It's do-able. There's actually a fair amount out there on the web about using the OM-1 for wildlife (including recent Joe MacDonald ebook). It's different from anything you're using now, and one of the more pleasant challenges is finding and using features your current system doesn't have, like ProCapture and LiveND.
I actually have to keep up with both Olympus and Nikon full frame (Z9/7) and probably will into the foreseeable future. *That's* challenging some times.
(A tip: Keep the pdf of the manual on your phone).
What I have found is that to get good images in less-than-ideal circumstances with the 100-400 I need to pay attention to the histogram. For example, a white egret @ exp comp=0 seems blown out. When I dropper the white the numbers are 253-254 which makes recovering any detail problematical. My normal "White-Bird" setting is exp comp= -1.3. On the other hand, if the image seems dark, as the attached image was, I switch to EXP comp= +1.3. In post I backed the exp down 0.75 which seems to work better than increasing exp .55.
There is some data that indicates that "subject identification: Bird" does better when an otherwise dark image has its exp comp increased.
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There is some data that indicates that "subject identification: Bird" does better when an otherwise dark image has its exp comp increased.
wildpics
New member
Any specific reason why you turn OFF lens IS? I do not have the Olympus 100-400 but got the PL100-400, I am still finding an issue for moving subjects >30M where images are slightly blurred , tried turning off lens IS switch but did see any difference. Static subjects at distance is ok. Thanks.
It was a recommendation from several evaluators that said that the lens IS didn't work with the camera IS. What is your shutter speed for BIF. I am at 1/3200, not the low shutter speeds recommended by some.
Tom
Tom
This is OM-1 1/3200 f/6.3 at over 100 meters.
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wildpics
New member
Thanks. I was using 1/1600, you are correct, I need to increase the shutter speed. I was in Kenya last two weeks and was using the same as the D850/500PF for slow birds. I will also switch off lens IS in future. Shots were eye level seated on the 4WD floor so background was very busy.
AlfC
Member
My guess would be too slow a shutter speed. That is my most common reason for a failed shot with fast moving subjects with my PL100-400. Like you I find very little difference between lens IS only on, IBIS or both, so I just leave them both on. I think it is rare for them to worsen the result.
For the Oly 100-400 I saw a video by Peter forsgard in which he explained that although there is no synch IS both the lens and the body stabilisation covered different aspects of shake: yaw, roll, pitch etc and did provide a better result than leaving either of them off so I guess the same may apply to the PL lens too(?)
Pauhana
New member
Yes noted when I rented OM-1 and 100-400 that keeping an eye on histogram was important. Hope to add 12-100, couple of fast primes and 300 moving forward
wildpics
New member
Thanks. I have no idea how the Pl lens is different to the Olympus in terms of IS, but as suggested by Tom will give it a go. I bought it few weeks back with the OM-1 purely for compact size for travel. Recommendation on this forum is that the Olympus is sharper at long distances though I have not experienced any issues around sharpness of static subjects.
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I have setup guides from Fred Rouse, Joe McDonald and Tony Phillips and the issues with the Olympus 100-400 are not really covered. Rouse does review the lens and say it is great, but most shots are with other lenses. Quite simply, you need to shoot differently with a F/6.3 lens than a F/4 or F/4.5.
Tom
Tom
Pauhana
New member
Exactly. I will use this lens for bird butterflies and dragonflies. Hence the 100-400 I felt was better choice. 300 will be added at some point
LTK
Well-known member
I currently use a A1 200-600 , after using it for 16 months I'm looking at faster focusing glass, the 200-600 is great for the money but a little slow . Before fully committing to the 600mm f4 GM I'm looking at all options , a friend of mine kindly let me borrow his OM-1 300mm f4 + TC1.4. , he also has the 150-400 .
I'm liking the OM-1, with the 300mm f4 acquisition is quick although it is a little slower with the TC on, keeper rate a little lower too. Unfortunately the Peregrines wasn't very active that day so not many shots , just a juvenile
P8280623 by leon kirkbride, on Flickr
I'm liking the OM-1, with the 300mm f4 acquisition is quick although it is a little slower with the TC on, keeper rate a little lower too. Unfortunately the Peregrines wasn't very active that day so not many shots , just a juvenile
P8280623 by leon kirkbride, on Flickr
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While the 300 F4 is faster the final image in terms of noise between that and your 200-600 (assuming shooting both wide open) will sway towards the A1/200-600 combo because of the full frame sensor. It's close though and I could see someone choosing the OM-1/300 Combo over the A1/200-600 for a number of reasons (cost, size and close IQ). Although the 50MP of the A1 makes a big difference in cropping ability (without having to use the TC)
However, if your goal is "faster glass" you have to take into account the entire package (IMO). I'm assuming the reason you want faster glass is to shoot lower ISO and keep your shutter speed up. The 300F4 (or the 150-400) final image will have about 2 stops worse noise performance over the A1/600F4, so in reality you aren't gaining anything (see above) over your 200-600.
I'm not saying the either setup is better/worse (they both have pluses and minus), it all depends on what you need to get out of it.
Great Falcon BTW
While the 300 F4 is faster the final image in terms of noise between that and your 200-600 (assuming shooting both wide open) will sway towards the A1/200-600 combo because of the full frame sensor. It's close though and I could see someone choosing the OM-1/300 Combo over the A1/200-600 for a number of reasons (cost, size and close IQ). Although the 50MP of the A1 makes a big difference in cropping ability (without having to use the TC)
However, if your goal is "faster glass" you have to take into account the entire package (IMO). I'm assuming the reason you want faster glass is to shoot lower ISO and keep your shutter speed up. The 300F4 (or the 150-400) final image will have about 2 stops worse noise performance over the A1/600F4, so in reality you aren't gaining anything (see above) over your 200-600.
I'm not saying the either setup is better/worse (they both have pluses and minus), it all depends on what you need to get out of it.
Great Falcon BTW
I would agree with this. The OM-1 is one stop worse in dynamic range than a FF camera like the A1. The 300f4 is essentially a F/8 equivalent at a 2:1 crop.
However, it appears that the criteria is "acquisition speed" and "faster glass" is the solution.
If "acquisition speed" is, in fact, the criteria the OM-1/300F4 may well outperform the A1/200-600. The OM-1's 1000+ cross sensor AF structure may outperform the A1. The Olympus 300f4, which can AF @ 50f/s may outperform the 200-600. Finally, the smaller, lighter OM-1 setup may allow the photographer to get the bird in the frame quicker than the Sony rig.
I say MAY because both systems are incredibly good at picking up BIF. I think the difference is between instantaneous and instantaneous plus.
Tom
eaj101
Well-known member
There are a lot of arguments about equivalence but saying that an m4/3 image is automatically equivalent to a full frame image two stops slower (e.g. f4 is really f8) is really not accurate - there's a lot going on and the formats have different benefits. (this from someone who shoots Nikon full frame and Olympus m4/3 and will keep doing so).
Good summary (key takeaway, different formats play to different strengths):
www.sansmirror.com
Good summary (key takeaway, different formats play to different strengths):
“Equivalence” in a Nutshell | Sans Mirror | Thom Hogan
Equivalence in camera systems
LTK
Well-known member
I love the A1 , there’s a lot of hype around the OM-1 so I was really interested to try it out . If I was to go for the OM-1 I’d get the 150-400 , I’ve no problem with noise with either of these cameras . I should have said slower focus speed with the 200-600 , it’s generally a good lens just lacking that speed and consistency for action .While the 300 F4 is faster the final image in terms of noise between that and your 200-600 (assuming shooting both wide open) will sway towards the A1/200-600 combo because of the full frame sensor. It's close though and I could see someone choosing the OM-1/300 Combo over the A1/200-600 for a number of reasons (cost, size and close IQ). Although the 50MP of the A1 makes a big difference in cropping ability (without having to use the TC)
However, if your goal is "faster glass" you have to take into account the entire package (IMO). I'm assuming the reason you want faster glass is to shoot lower ISO and keep your shutter speed up. The 300F4 (or the 150-400) final image will have about 2 stops worse noise performance over the A1/600F4, so in reality you aren't gaining anything (see above) over your 200-600.
I'm not saying the either setup is better/worse (they both have pluses and minus), it all depends on what you need to get out of it.
Great Falcon BTW
If the 200-600 was as quick focus as the 300 or 150-400 I’d be more than happy , the only Sony option I have is the 600mm f4 . The 100-400 is quicker but too short
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LTK
Well-known member
Yes , my fault I wasn’t very clear . The A1 higher iso files are definitely better but the OM-1 is fine too tbh . I just used standard settings in C1 , the above image is also cropped about 60% .
I usually shoot the A1 in crop mode for BIF unless it’s swifts , with OM-1 my friend has a dot sight fitted which helped for BIF . With the EVF I did find it easier getting on the birds with the A1 . For handholding I preferred the 150-400 over the 300 , it’s also better balanced than the 200-600