Is anyone exploring the Olympus OM-1 for birds and wildlife?

[riseform]

A few more from last weekend. Pretty high ISO shots on an overcast day and all using the pro-capture feature.
I'll probably get tired of these kinds of shots over time, but thus far it's been a lot of fun being able to get them.

Steller's jay


Cassin's finch


Black-headed grosbeak

 

[Tom Reynolds]

A few more from last weekend. Pretty high ISO shots on an overcast day and all using the pro-capture feature.
I'll probably get tired of these kinds of shots over time, but thus far it's been a lot of fun being able to get them.

Steller's jay


Cassin's finch


Black-headed grosbeak

LENS, settings?

Tom

 

[riseform]

If you click on them it'll take you to Flickr with the shutter speed and ISO settings. I almost always shoot wide open at 4.5 or 5.6 if the TC is engaged. I'm using manual with auto ISO and changing the exposure comp when dealing with birds that show they're blowing out the whites (sometimes switching to complete manual)
I went for the expensive 150-400 4.5 TC lens and was lucky to get one. I have an Alaska trip coming up in July and really wanted to get familiar with the camera and lens before going.
I'm still figuring out pro-capture settings, but for these I was shooting 50 fps with 25 overall pictures and (I think) about 15 frames buffered prior to a complete shutter press.

 

[Tom Reynolds]

If you click on them it'll take you to Flickr with the shutter speed and ISO settings. I almost always shoot wide open at 4.5 or 5.6 if the TC is engaged. I'm using manual with auto ISO and changing the exposure comp when dealing with birds that show they're blowing out the whites (sometimes switching to complete manual)
I went for the expensive 150-400 4.5 TC lens and was lucky to get one. I have an Alaska trip coming up in July and really wanted to get familiar with the camera and lens before going.
I'm still figuring out pro-capture settings, but for these I was shooting 50 fps with 25 overall pictures and (I think) about 15 frames buffered prior to a complete shutter press.

Thanks for the info.

For me it will be the 100-400 @ f/6.3. Pro-capture limited to 25 f/s. How are you set up to change exp comp? What i see as a big advantage of the R7/100-500 is the ring on the lens that can be set to change exp. comp.

 

[riseform]

+/- button and a wheel spin

 

[Tom Reynolds]

+/- button and a wheel spin

Thanks

 

[fsi22]

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These are ISO 12800, Uncropped with PL200 + 2X TC

I was amazed that with 2X it would pick up these birds as close as it did.

I am impressed with the OM-1 high ISO.

 

[Drew]

That 100-500 Canon feels very light and well balanced, including fully extended, with the R5 and also with the R3. I was given the opportunity to briefly try both combos and was very impressed with the feel of the lens and also how easily the autofocus kept up with BIF.

I currently shoot with mostly Olympus gear but the E-M1iii/300/F4 combo I have is good but erratic in focussing. I have started to look at alternatives for this setup. I rented the Canon R5/100-500/TC1.4 combo last month and was impressed. Excellent auto focussing and the total weight was manageable for me (5.11#). I just rented the OM-1 (got it yesterday) and with the 300 F/4 and TC1.4 combo, I have been getting much better shots with a weight of 4.93#. I have this setup for another week so I will get into the auto focussing menu system tonight and try again tomorrow. Because of weight considerations, alternatives using Nikon (Z9 body) and Sony (200-600 lens) are ranked lower. I had briefly thought at getting the Nikon D500/500 PF combo, but after seeing the numerous people on this thread dropping that gear to get a lighter setup, I dropped that option.

 

[Rook]

Petr provides some RAW files from the OM-1 at the link below. I was very impressed with how easily Topaz DeNoise removed the noise while retaining detail and colour in the sample files I loaded. One was shot at ISO 4000 and Topaz made easy work of cleaning it up. For anyone interested, I did not run those files through OM Workspace but through Adobe DNG Converter and straight to Topaz.

OM-1 in Ecuador (part 2) | Petr Bambousek | Wildlife Photography

www.sulasula.com

The OM-1 has arrived, just waiting on the 300mm f4 +1.4tc to start testing the combo against my D500/500pf. If the subject to background separation and bokeh are comparable, it will make parting with the 500pf a bit easier..

 

[Tom Reynolds]

Petr provides some RAW files from the OM-1 at the link below. I was very impressed with how easily Topaz DeNoise removed the noise while retaining detail and colour in the sample files I loaded. One was shot at ISO 4000 and Topaz made easy work of cleaning it up. For anyone interested, I did not run those files through OM Workspace but through Adobe DNG Converter and straight to Topaz.

OM-1 in Ecuador (part 2) | Petr Bambousek | Wildlife Photography

www.sulasula.com

The OM-1 has arrived, just waiting on the 300mm f4 +1.4tc to start testing the combo against my D500/500pf. If the subject to background separation and bokeh are comparable, it will make parting with the 500pf a bit easier..

I will be very interested in your impressions.

tom

 

[Pwdrhound]

Me too. I have the D500 and 200-500 + 1.4extender. Having been mostly an Olympus user for a good while (E1, E3, Em1 mk1), I got the D500 combo mostly as a more affordable option at the time for good AF ability and reach. I picked up the OM1 at launch and have paired it with the 40-150 2.8 pro so far (though I have a decent collection of original 4/3 lenses as well). I've been debating if I should sell the D500/200-500/1.4TC combo. But it's hard to part with for sure!

 

[Karl]

For bird photography I usually want more m's: mm and megapixels... otherwise, this sounds like a great system, especially the AF speed.

 

[Tom Reynolds]

For bird photography I usually want more m's: mm and megapixels... otherwise, this sounds like a great system, especially the AF speed.

Yep, the downside is that it is a 20mp image as opposed to a 32mp image on the R7. Other than the small sensor it seems the equal of other top-of-the-line cameras such as the Z-9 and A1. It appears to truly be a D-500 with Z-9 characteristics.

Its competitor, the Canon R7 also appears to have equivalent AF but maybe not as high-iso capabilities and, as previously stated a 32.4mp image.

The big swing is that the OLY has a 100-400mm lens designed for the 4/3 sensor while the Canon is paired with a full frame 100-500mm lens. The full frame lens has a lot of glass that is not used with the cropped sensor R7, the result being that the OLY OM-1/100-400 is 1/2 pound lighter and $1K cheaper than the Canon R7/100-500

 

[Karl]

I'm a bit spoiled with my a7R4 having 61mp... great for little birds that don't fill the screen enough and need cropping. However, faster AF and BEAF would be nice. I shoot quite a few pictures with high ISO and Topaz DeNoise works magic on them when needed.

 

[eaj101]

I'm a bit spoiled with my a7R4 having 61mp... great for little birds that don't fill the screen enough and need cropping. However, faster AF and BEAF would be nice. I shoot quite a few pictures with high ISO and Topaz DeNoise works magic on them when needed.

There are certainly limitations to the OM-1, but the allure of a handhold-able effective field of view of 1600mm is hard to resist. I'm still exploring this, and finding one of the biggest challenges is keeping something in the frame at that extreme magnification, but the Olympus stabilization is uncanny. And the image quality at that extreme isn't bad.

 

[Rook]

I tried out the OM-1 with the 12-40 f2.8 PRO II lens in ok light on a dog leaping over jumps (I'm still waiting for the long lens to arrive for a 'true' test on birds in flight!). It was wonderful to see the eye-tracking locking on immediately onto the dogs eye as he entered the frame at speed. On reviewing the photos on the desktop, I found the phenomenon that others have reported; perfect focus for several frames then missed focus for a frame then back to perfect focus. This isn't an issue for me as there are so many perfectly tracked and focussed frames that it makes little difference. So far, the camera is a joy to use. It feels very well built and laid out, as does the 12-40 lens. There are many very interesting features to be explored too, magnified focus peaking is so nice to use.

However, it really comes down to auto-focus on fast moving birds, subject to background separation and rendering of out-of-focus areas. Another issue might be finding flying birds in the viewfinder using the equivalent focal length of 840mm. I suspect that excellent IS and zero blackout might be very helpful here.

I will be testing and comparing side-by-side with my D500/500pf and will report back for anyone considering the OM-1/300mm f4/1.4TC for birds

 

[Drew]

I tried out the OM-1 with the 12-40 f2.8 PRO II lens in ok light on a dog leaping over jumps (I'm still waiting for the long lens to arrive for a 'true' test on birds in flight!). It was wonderful to see the eye-tracking locking on immediately onto the dogs eye as he entered the frame at speed. On reviewing the photos on the desktop, I found the phenomenon that others have reported; perfect focus for several frames then missed focus for a frame then back to perfect focus. This isn't an issue for me as there are so many perfectly tracked and focussed frames that it makes little difference. So far, the camera is a joy to use. It feels very well built and laid out, as does the 12-40 lens. There are many very interesting features to be explored too, magnified focus peaking is so nice to use.

However, it really comes down to auto-focus on fast moving moving birds, subject to background separation and rendering of out-of-focus areas. Another issue might be finding flying birds in the viewfinder using the equivalent focal length of 840mm. I suspect that excellent IS and zero blackout might be very helpful here.

I will be testing and comparing side-by-side with my D500/500pf and will report back for anyone considering the OM-1/300mm f4/1.4TC for birds

Looking forward to your results from the OM-1/300mm/1.4TC.

 

[Rook]

Just a few observations after a few outings with the OM-1 and 300 f4 lens with 1.4 tc. I had planned to compare the combo in the field with the D500/500pf but haven't had time. However, the OM-1 and 300mm f4 lens with and without the 1.4tc has subject to background separation and rendering of out-of-focus areas which to my eye, looks comparable to the Nikon combo.

The BEAF with the OM-1 and 300 f4 bare lens is very quick to lock on and is very reliable while tracking the bird but initial lock-on is noticeably slower and less confident with the 1.4 tc attached. Once eye focus is achieved, I found tracking to be similar with and without the 1.4 tc.

Working with high ISO files is a breeze. Topaz Denoise AI gives great results, easily. I'm also trialling DxO PhotoLab 5 at the moment, and DeepPrime works very well but I find Topaz gives finer control and you are not limited to a very small window for checking results before further adjustments.

Although the D500/500pf is a fantastic wildlife combo that I was reluctant to part with, I feel that I wouldn't be giving up anything by replacing it with the Olympus gear (apart from the realism of the OVF).

 

[GrandNagus50]

I am wondering what people have experienced re using an Olympus/OM Systems bird rig with fill flash vs. full-frame systems like Nikon or Canon. My limited experience has been that the efficacy of high-speed sync flash with Olympus is not as good as with my Nikon system, i.e., for whatever reason the level of output for Olympus cameras/flashes at "high speed sync" seems lower, so the system does not work as well for daylight fill flash at a distance.

I actually don't use daylight fill flash much these days, but I will be going on a workshop in Colombia in January where this will be one of the "group activities." I suppose this gives me lots of time for experimentation trial/error, but I am wondering if anyone else has dealt with this aspect of nature photography lately.

 

[Tom Reynolds]

The OM-1 hands on reviews show images taken with a 300f/4, 40-150 or 150-400 pro lenses. The non-Pro 100-400 is rarely featured. Only Andy Rouse, who reviewed and loves the lens displays any 100-400 images I can find.

However, the 100-400 f/5-6.3 weighs less than 2.5# and with a 1.4TC is still less than 3#. The logic is that the lens/1.4TC combination will give an equivalent reach of 1120mm @ F/7.1.

My thinking is that an Olympus 100-400/1.4TC, 20MP OM-1 sensor would be the rough equivalent of a Cannon 100-500 lens on the 1.6 cropped sensor R7 if the 32MP image from the cannon was cropped to 20MP.

 

[vulpess]

However, the 100-400 f/5-6.3 weighs less than 2.5# and with a 1.4TC is still less than 3#. The logic is that the lens/1.4TC combination will give an equivalent reach of 1120mm @ F/7.1.

Your calculations are not quite right. The 1.4x TC costs one stop, so that makes it f9. If you want to calculate FF equivalent in terms of DOF you “loose” two more stops, coming in at f18!

 

[Mitesh]

I haven't picked up my a1 since getting the OM-1. It is a remarkable camera packed with features at an attractive price point.

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[fsi22]

I haven't picked up my a1 since getting the OM-1. It is a remarkable camera packed with features at an attractive price point.



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Stunning images. With regards to the A1, welcome to my world. I use mine exclusively with a 35GM for family now, the OM-1 is my go to for everything else.

 

[Drew]

Stunning photos, Mitesh! What lens were you using?

 

[faunagraphy]

I expect to evaluate the OM-1/100-400 against the R7/100-500 in early July. I plan to purchase both setups, evaluate them and return (if I can) or sell (used).

Catching up on 20+ unread messages on this thread, I've lost track of whether you have acquired the 100-400 already. If not, you might also want to consider the Panasonic 100-400. It isn't as sharp as the Olympus 100-400 (which in turn is not comparable to Pro lenses) but has gorgeous OOF rendering and colors that defy what one would expect from a f6.3 MFT lens. It also seems to have faster focus motors which, according to MirrorlessComparison's tests, results in a keeper rate at 300mm and 400mm that is similar to that of the 300mm Pro with / without 1.4x TC. The Olympus 100-400 had a lower keeper rate for BIFs but that might have also been impacted by cloudy weather in Wales.

OM System OM-1 Review for Bird Photography / Birds in Flight - Mirrorless Comparison

Over the years, Olympus has built a very interesting system for wildlife and bird photographers, with reduced size and weight being the primary appeal for those tired of carrying heavy gear around. But despite the excellent portability, the unrivalled stabilisation and the impressive shooting...

mirrorlesscomparison.com

How does the overall IQ compare between the 500PF and 300 f4 Pro at a subject distance around 30M.

As someone said it's hard to tell them apart (equal DOF as well for DX) but I will point out that the 300mm Pro works very well with the MC-20 2x TC as well. I haven't seen many good examples of the 500 PF with a 2x TC. That's pretty impressive for a lens that resolves a sensor with pixel density higher than any existing FF sensor.

Just a few observations after a few outings with the OM-1 and 300 f4 lens with 1.4 tc. I had planned to compare the combo in the field with the D500/500pf but haven't had time. However, the OM-1 and 300mm f4 lens with and without the 1.4tc has subject to background separation and rendering of out-of-focus areas which to my eye, looks comparable to the Nikon combo.

The BEAF with the OM-1 and 300 f4 bare lens is very quick to lock on and is very reliable while tracking the bird but initial lock-on is noticeably slower and less confident with the 1.4 tc attached. Once eye focus is achieved, I found tracking to be similar with and without the 1.4 tc.

Working with high ISO files is a breeze. Topaz Denoise AI gives great results, easily. I'm also trialling DxO PhotoLab 5 at the moment, and DeepPrime works very well but I find Topaz gives finer control and you are not limited to a very small window for checking results before further adjustments.

Although the D500/500pf is a fantastic wildlife combo that I was reluctant to part with, I feel that I wouldn't be giving up anything by replacing it with the Olympus gear (apart from the realism of the OVF).

So it isn't just me. I've seen some nice BIFs with the MC-14 and according to some, it can be used well for this purpose unlike the MC-20. My experience has been the complete opposite. With the 1.4x TC my 300mm Pro takes simply too long to focus and I almost always miss the shot. OTOH I have gotten many keepers with the MC-20 and can use it reliably for slower BIFs such as non-diving raptors. With the 50 fps of the OM-1 I can even expect to use it with faster birds and get some nice shots.

I do not know whether this is because (my) 2x TC is a good one, or if it's because the subjects are farther away and so easier to track. But I strongly prefer shooting BIFs with the bare lens, or with the 2x TC if necessary. I almost never use the 1.4x TC anymore.

I am wondering what people have experienced re using an Olympus/OM Systems bird rig with fill flash vs. full-frame systems like Nikon or Canon. My limited experience has been that the efficacy of high-speed sync flash with Olympus is not as good as with my Nikon system, i.e., for whatever reason the level of output for Olympus cameras/flashes at "high speed sync" seems lower, so the system does not work as well for daylight fill flash at a distance.

I actually don't use daylight fill flash much these days, but I will be going on a workshop in Colombia in January where this will be one of the "group activities." I suppose this gives me lots of time for experimentation trial/error, but I am wondering if anyone else has dealt with this aspect of nature photography lately.

Haven't done much flash work with the OM-1 but in general, mechanical shutter works better for Olympus cameras. I shoot with Godox flashes. This is assuming you've enabled flash sync on electronic flash in 'sequential shutter' settings. Flash on mechanical shutter works without needing to change any additional settings in the menu.