This is a bush-taxi in 2007. You're not going to be getting around on bush-taxi. (Sorry for the terrible picture, it was through the window glass of our moving van, + I wasn't doing photography then, this was just a consumer camera from before cell phone cameras blew up.) As someone else said about their trip, it was also true of our trip that our van was the only private vehicle we saw on the roads. And we were constantly getting stopped by police so the driver could prove he had the permit to be driving us around. There was a revolution shortly after that, so maybe there is more freedom to travel now on motorbikes or what have you... but I don't know whether that's true or not... and I agree with the comment that you're going to need a local guide. Especially if you don't speak French. In 2007, the biggest problem was the food. We all lost weight. I didn't even know that it was possible for chicken to be tough... And one of us did speak French, well, Canadian French, a few of the park ladies kind of pretended they didn't understand her. It was tres awkward! But mostly everyone was super friendly. Just please... don't eat ANYTHING raw. Nothing, nada, not one lettuce leaf, just don't do it. Edited to add: Not sure your gear needs to be inconspicuous, several of our group had long lenses. I don't think crime is much of an issue in rural Madagascar... or it wasn't then.
