Nikkor 24-70 F 2.8 Stability

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MalcolmP

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This is my D850 - 24-70 2.8 set up. Any suggestions for better stabilization? Is there a foot that can be attached to the lens? Trying to minimize camera blur, especially on long exposures. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
220811 D850 w 24-70 IMG_2839.jpeg
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If you are getting motion blur with that setup, I would start looking at your L-bracket, tripod, ball head and panning plate for anything that might not be tightened down. I can't tell what tripod you are using underneath all that.

[Edit] I would look at everything in your setup that is below the camera. The 24-70mm lens should easily be stable enough just connected to the camera body by the lens mount. Every additional layer/piece of hardware that you have in the support structure is a potential source of movement. You could run a process of elimination exercise (or remove everything, and start adding one at a time) to see what might be introducing any instability into your setup.
 
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Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
The suggestions above are all good and when I shot that lens I just used the L bracket on the camera for support.

That said there are some aftermarket stabilization brackets available that fit that lens including this from iShoot: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275337703347

BTW, that bracket also doubles as a panorama Nodal Slide which is a handy thing to have if you shoot panos and is compatible with the camera body plate included or a standard L bracket.
 
I second Joe’s suggestion of making sure VR is turned off. With long exposure that certainly can be messing with exposure. Nothing else with set up screams out at me as an issue. BH-55 is a rock solid ball head. RRS leveling base I’m sure is solid too. Unless your legs are really weak (doubting that based on rest of your set up) so I’m circling back to VR.
 
I second Joe’s suggestion of making sure VR is turned off. With long exposure that certainly can be messing with exposure. Nothing else with set up screams out at me as an issue. BH-55 is a rock solid ball head. RRS leveling base I’m sure is solid too. Unless your legs are really weak (doubting that based on rest of your set up) so I’m circling back to VR.
I could be wrong, but I was thinking that looked like the smaller BH-40 ball head. Yes, it's smaller than the BH-55, but definitely no slouch.
 
BH-40 has lever style main dial. 55 has large knob like in photo. Even if it was a BH-40 it would be more than enough. Like you said no slouch.
Oops, yeah I didn't know there was a difference in the knob styles. I even own a BH-55, I just thought this one in the picture looked smaller than mine. I guess I was missing a frame of reference to provide the correct size perspective.
 
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If you are getting motion blur with that setup, I would start looking at your L-bracket, tripod, ball head and panning plate for anything that might not be tightened down. I can't tell what tripod you are using underneath all that.

[Edit] I would look at everything in your setup that is below the camera. The 24-70mm lens should easily be stable enough just connected to the camera body by the lens mount. Every additional layer/piece of hardware that you have in the support structure is a potential source of movement. You could run a process of elimination exercise (or remove everything, and start adding one at a time) to see what might be introducing any instability into your setup.

All of the above plus, mirror locked up and remote release or timer.

The suggestions above are all good and when I shot that lens I just used the L bracket on the camera for support.

That said there are some aftermarket stabilization brackets available that fit that lens including this from iShoot: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275337703347

BTW, that bracket also doubles as a panorama Nodal Slide which is a handy thing to have if you shoot panos and is compatible with the camera body plate included or a standard L bracket.

Watch this video for how to get the most out of your tripod:

If there is any wind, removing the lens hood might be needd too. And if VR is On I would turn it off and see if that helps.

I second Joe’s suggestion of making sure VR is turned off. With long exposure that certainly can be messing with exposure. Nothing else with set up screams out at me as an issue. BH-55 is a rock solid ball head. RRS leveling base I’m sure is solid too. Unless your legs are really weak (doubting that based on rest of your set up) so I’m circling back to VR.
Thank you everybody.
Hood Removal
VR Off
Mirror Up
Remote
All things I have not been doing.

I use a Manfrotto 190XPROB Tripod. I also use this set up with my 80-400 & 500 PF. Both of which have a lens foot. With the CG over the tripod, the heavier lenses seem stable.
Thanks for all the comments. Any comments on the tripod would be appreciated.
 
Besides mentioning the above comment on removing the hood with any wind, I presume you may have added weight to the tripod to help stabilize it. The next suggestion, is to inspect one final time Auto Focus settings, AF-S vs AF-F, as well as the AF-Area Mode, Depending on your subject, start with single point. The last subject is one that will probably have hundreds of mostly "You dont know what youre talking about", and/or "that is wrong"...is to try turning on Vibration Reduction, if its already on, turn it off.
 
This is my D850 - 24-70 2.8 set up. Any suggestions for better stabilization? Is there a foot that can be attached to the lens? Trying to minimize camera blur, especially on long exposures. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. View attachment 44662
Hi there,
I use a multi purpose rail (called many other names but this one is from RRS
Rubbish iPhone image
MPR Plate.jpg
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This is with the 14-24 which is very front heavy and the rail helps get the balance right
 
One other area that might be explored, is try using a prime lens i.e. 35mm or 55mm, take a picture of an object or a landscape, set the camera to automatic i.e. all settings determined by camera. Simply switch to manual settings and shoot the same pictures. Without moving the camera or subject, swap out your lens to the 14-24 or 24-70. Take a series of shots at one end of the focal point, then mid range & finally the opposite end of the focal point with the camera set to automatic..again let it decide what F/Stop. shutter speed etc. Finally switch to manual and repeat. Using what ever software you typically use review each image. There is a possibility that either the camera body and or lens need to be calibrated....Bodies are made in 1 location & lenses are made in a different location.. Steve has a couple of YouTube videos on calibration.
 
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