htom
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Is there any difference in behavior and precision between the Single Point AF area and a 1x1 size custom box (configured for C1 or C2) when subject detection is turned off for the custom AF area? Thanks in advance!
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Thanks, that is my understanding as well. However, if I take this a step further, the custom area prioritizes the closest object when acquiring focus (according to Nikon), which is why I’m asking the question.the old school single point will not use any of the new features like subject detection , if you turn it off you are left with the old single point
Thanks! It might be because the 1x1 size is too small, and with SD turned off, it essentially restricts the custom area focus algorithm, causing it to behave similarly to single-point AF. As we increase the custom box size, it starts to function more like the older Group AF area found on DSLRs.i think though that with the 1x1 the subject area would be the same as single point af .. the difference being the custom box with subject detection will prioritize the closest subject .
i don’t see a difference once you turn off subject detection and use the same area box size
Thanks for the input Dave, much appreciated! Similarly, I've used the single point as backup for tricky situations when the SD picked something else than the subject eye.The biggest differences I see between a custom C1/C2 1x1 area and Single Point relate to Subject Detection but even with SD disabled Single Point really won't move beyond the confines of that area but the larger area modes including C1/C2 can stray a bit beyond the displayed box. They can stray quite a bit beyond the box outlines when SD is enabled but as they support automated area modes where the camera attempts to detect and track a subject they're not as confined as an actual Single Point area.
Like some of the others I keep Single Point as one of my AF Area options for tricky subjects that confuse subject detection as a quick way to disable SD. It's pretty rare with modern Z8/Z9 firmware but there are still some subjects like Pika and Nutria with their large round ears that can fool eye detection and in cases like that I just press a button to switch to Single Point and by doing so implicitly turn off SD in the process.
Clearly there is some kind of logic which the camera uses to determine searching beyond the confines of the selected custom area. How it prioritizes this or how far beyond the custom area hasn't been readily characterized. I can say that when I use the custom 1x1, I don't recall the AF searching much beyond it though I haven't tested it in circumstances such as elephants, hippos, etc. where traditional wide areas fail. In my limited experience with a custom 1x1 on subjects such as Sandhill Cranes where the WA tends to want to jump to the body, I haven't witnessed that occurring with the custom 1x1 box.The biggest differences I see between a custom C1/C2 1x1 area and Single Point relate to Subject Detection but even with SD disabled Single Point really won't move beyond the confines of that area but the larger area modes including C1/C2 can stray a bit beyond the displayed box. They can stray quite a bit beyond the box outlines when SD is enabled but as they support automated area modes where the camera attempts to detect and track a subject they're not as confined as an actual Single Point area.
Like some of the others I keep Single Point as one of my AF Area options for tricky subjects that confuse subject detection as a quick way to disable SD. It's pretty rare with modern Z8/Z9 firmware but there are still some subjects like Pika and Nutria with their large round ears that can fool eye detection and in cases like that I just press a button to switch to Single Point and by doing so implicitly turn off SD in the process.
That is the listed priority, though that's not how it works in the field. Say, I'm pointing the Wide Area S on a GBH/Sandy with the red AF area clearly over the eye. Almost 100% of the time, the SD (as indicated by the small white box) will jump to the eye, though the minute the BBF is pressed the green AF confirmation box will oscillate back and forth, frequently to the eye, often to the chest, to a highlight on the neck/bill, etc. Even when I am close to the subject, as I illustrated in another thread with a Trumpeter Swan which was large in the frame, the green AF box oscillated wildly all over the subject.One aspect of this that has not been mentioned is the emphasis on Nearest Subject Priority for various Wide modes including C1/C2 etc. Wide modes will focus on the nearest target in the focus box - and this may be a leaf, blade of grass, or twig. Single - like Dynamic modes - does not incorporate Nearest Subject so it is a little more likely to pick up the background if focus is missed. Given the small AF box with both approaches, it won't make much difference, but in general I find the Wide modes pretty good at picking up the nearest target in a group or when there are alternatives.
As far as going beyond the borders of the AF box, subject detection prioritizes the subject, subject's head, and then the eye in that order. If the AF box is on the subject with subject detection active, the camera will normally pick up the head and eye of that subject. So you could focus on the chest of a baseball player, and it would pick up the head and eye even if outside the AF box by a small distance. I find this works best when the subject is slightly larger than the AF box, so it would not be suitable for close ups that fill the frame.
One shouldn't have to, and that was almost unheard of with my Canon or Sony gear.Indeed, subject detection is not as accurate as we may expect even if it’s ai trained. Nothing wrong with going back to old-school mode and nail the shot.
You do what is necessary to get the shot. If I can turn off subject detection and have a 95% success rate, I might do that. I've even turned it off when subject detection had a 98% success rate - one miss out of 50 previous images - because I had an upcoming shot at a trophy presentation that had one chance and could not be repeated. Some of the old school methods work very well.One shouldn't have to, and that was almost unheard of with my Canon or Sony gear.