Nikon Z9 + Nikon 400mm f/4.5 - first time birding experience

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AlanDB

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As a long time landscape photographer, I am trying to dip my foot into birding. So I've spent a lot of time plowing through Steve's Z8/Z9 wildlife set up and Nikon AF and Birds in flight books over the past few weeks - including some back yard practicing, and then this past weekend had a chance to get some "in the field" experience. I thought I'd share some of what it was like using some of the settings and techniques he suggests whilst on a "Birding Workshop" along a tidal river and some wetlands on Sunday. The weather during the morning was ... interesting ... ranging from partly- to mostly- to completely-cloud covered. Which I think was helpful in providing some training dealing with different types of lighting.

For the most part things worked out ok - ran into some expected problems (like: I had no clue as to how close to the birds we'd get, nor what types of birds we'd see - although I had some idea having lived in this state my whole life). For the earlier parts the biggest problem was lack of reach (to be expected given a 400mm, so I pretty much had the 1.4TC glued on - and that coupled w/ DX got me a little closer). The birds were mostly gulls, geese, various duck species, and a couple of loons - which aren't too large, and since the tide was out it was hard to get close as the riverbed is rather treacherous... I was surprised at how well at times the bird detection would work at getting the bodies, but was also bothered initially when a lot of times it could not find the head/eyes. A number of those birds were black/white mixed and the heads often had black eyes in black heads and that just doesn't work. I recalled Steve mentioning that in the books, so I was often using that "trick" of using the record button to switch to (e.g.) point AF and just grabbing that. I had the camera/lens pretty much glued to a monopod the whole time and that worked well as I was teaching the muscle memory about the various dances (mostly switch AF types, moving AF points, adjusting ISO as the light changed, adjusting MF to get "near" a subject so that bird detction had a chance at getting to the primary target).

The second part of the workshop brought us into some wooded wetlands - here it was mostly small songbirds and it became harder (to find birds) and easier (bird detection worked amazingly well). We were very fortunate to have an Audubon specialist with us - she was great at finding birds both by herself and when we would point out noises and she could then help us focus in on the critters. [We also saw something that was new to her - a pair of Cormorants were circling way up high - she had never seen that activity before.] In this environment the Z9+400+1.4TC worked really well - I could often get near enough to fill a lot of the frame (some times in DX mode though). It was very lightweight and easy to hand-hold and whip about.

The last part took us to some more open wetlands - here I was able to track an Egret and a Blue Heron in flight w/ ease. Although again lack of range reared its ugly head a bit. I still filled a goodly portion of the frame w/ DX mode on again.

All in all it was a very positive experience - for sure dealing w/ song birds in the wooded wetlands went well (although I really need to work on my bird-finding skills). Steve's books (and videos) were amazing at getting me up to speed on this - there is no way I'd have been able to set up and use the Z9+400mm w/out stumbling around for quite some time.

It's also clear that if I want to get into the other situations I'll need a (much?) longer lens for that. To start I'll concentrate more on getting the most out of the 400mm near-term and start saving some bucks for an 800PF I think. ;-)

---

One other thing I should mention - sometimes I would get "lost" in the dance (buttons and focus) and then whilst photographing a subject I'd keep my shutter depressed way too long. W/out the audible feedback of a shutter I ended up taking ... A LOT ... of extra images that weren't needed. Need to learn some discipline there.
 
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Though not a substitute for an 800mm lens, adding a 2.0 TC to the 400mm can extend your reach for some interesting bird photos (and much less cost and weight):
Shooting at f/9 makes low light scenes much more challenging. AF using the 2.0TC is slower. And the 2.0TC comes with a cost of softer images. One must weigh those factors in a decision about the value of a 400 f/4.5 with the TC vs an 800 PF.
 
Just a note on the last part regarding audible shutter, I had mine completely silent for a long time but have since set it to a low volume that pretty much only I can hear with the camera raised to shooting position. There may be times where I want it silent or louder but for general use I find using the fake shutter sound at minimal volume helps.
 
Though not a substitute for an 800mm lens, adding a 2.0 TC to the 400mm can extend your reach for some interesting bird photos (and much less cost and weight):
I will try some stuff w/ that combination - an 800 f/9 if math is correct ;-)
 
Just a note on the last part regarding audible shutter, I had mine completely silent for a long time but have since set it to a low volume that pretty much only I can hear with the camera raised to shooting position. There may be times where I want it silent or louder but for general use I find using the fake shutter sound at minimal volume helps.
Until I can teach myself to be more disciplined I might end up trying that out - the audible "hint" will probably help me a bit.
 
Just a note on the last part regarding audible shutter, I had mine completely silent for a long time but have since set it to a low volume that pretty much only I can hear with the camera raised to shooting position. There may be times where I want it silent or louder but for general use I find using the fake shutter sound at minimal volume helps.
Agree, I dropped off the sound and realized I was making way to many images. That slight tick keeps things in reason
 
I've used the 400 f/4.5 and 1.4 TC extensively for photography while birding. It's a nice combination - sharp and light.

DX mode can be very helpful for small birds, but the narrow field of view is challenging. For that reason having a Fn button programmed to switch to DX is useful.

I also have a Fn button programmed to Zoom to 100%. This is just for the viewfinder - both before an image is taken and on review. It essentially gives you electronic binoculars with a camera. I normally pick up 1-2 species using photos taken with this method - even with expert birders. - and I am certified as a Master Birder. I stopped carrying binoculars because the zoom function works so well. I'll miss some subjects due to DOF or field of view, but I also can quickly document rarities which has proven to be more valuable.

There is a huge difference between bird photography and photographing while birding. On a bird walk, the emphasis is on seeing or hearing a subject adequately for identification. You might observe behavior for a short time, but then you move on with the goal of seeing many birds. With bird photography, you choose the light and conditions that are most conducive to photography, and then go to locations with the best opportunities for the subject of choice. If you have good action with a subject, you'll stay there and work the subject as long as the opportunity for photos is good enough - even a matter of hours in one place. For photography, the emphasis is on breeding plumage and interesting behavior or action. One or two excellent photos would be a successful bird photography outing. No photos but hearing and seeing some good birds makes a good bird walk.
 
I've used the 400 f/4.5 and 1.4 TC extensively for photography while birding. It's a nice combination - sharp and light.

DX mode can be very helpful for small birds, but the narrow field of view is challenging. For that reason having a Fn button programmed to switch to DX is useful.

I also have a Fn button programmed to Zoom to 100%. This is just for the viewfinder - both before an image is taken and on review. It essentially gives you electronic binoculars with a camera. I normally pick up 1-2 species using photos taken with this method - even with expert birders. - and I am certified as a Master Birder. I stopped carrying binoculars because the zoom function works so well. I'll miss some subjects due to DOF or field of view, but I also can quickly document rarities which has proven to be more valuable.

There is a huge difference between bird photography and photographing while birding. On a bird walk, the emphasis is on seeing or hearing a subject adequately for identification. You might observe behavior for a short time, but then you move on with the goal of seeing many birds. With bird photography, you choose the light and conditions that are most conducive to photography, and then go to locations with the best opportunities for the subject of choice. If you have good action with a subject, you'll stay there and work the subject as long as the opportunity for photos is good enough - even a matter of hours in one place. For photography, the emphasis is on breeding plumage and interesting behavior or action. One or two excellent photos would be a successful bird photography outing. No photos but hearing and seeing some good birds makes a good bird walk.
Thanks much Eric - lots of good information!

I do have Fn2 for FX/DX mode, I'll find another button for the 100% - never thought of that, good advice.

Regards,
Alan
 
Z9 - 800pf you can’t throw around so easily, vs. 400/4.5 gotta build up muscle first.

Also, I would very highly suggest for the 800pf that you get the shortest Zemlin hood and the cap. (I also highly recommend the Zemlin eye cup)
 
I have the 800PF and love it for small birds. There are two learnings associated with the 800PF. One has to do with the minimum focus distance. I have missed shot simply by the subject being too close. The other challenge with the 800 PF can be locating the subject in a busy setting due to its rather narrow field of view. Those things aside, I believe the 800 PF has enabled me to get a very printable images and high resolution shareable images due to how well the subject fills the frame.

Is it heavy? I guess the answer is yes. Is it hand holdable? Absolutely. I am 5'6 and 150 lbs. I regularly do walk around bird photography using a Holdfast Gear Solo shoulder strap to support the 800/Z9 while not shooting. More often than not, the tripod and monopod stay behind.
 
I have the 800PF and love it for small birds. There are two learnings associated with the 800PF. One has to do with the minimum focus distance. I have missed shot simply by the subject being too close. The other challenge with the 800 PF can be locating the subject in a busy setting due to its rather narrow field of view. Those things aside, I believe the 800 PF has enabled me to get a very printable images and high resolution shareable images due to how well the subject fills the frame.

Is it heavy? I guess the answer is yes. Is it hand holdable? Absolutely. I am 5'6 and 150 lbs. I regularly do walk around bird photography using a Holdfast Gear Solo shoulder strap to support the 800/Z9 while not shooting. More often than not, the tripod and monopod stay behind.
First time I hear about Holdfast Gear Solo shoulder strap.
A quick search on B&H shows its leather.
I have an issue with any shoulder straps that my shoulders are basically with a down angle, no bone / bump to keep the strap from slipping off my shoulders. would this be more of a help?

How are you attaching it to the 800?
 
Holdfast and blackrapid make similar style straps. I have used blackrapid but not holdfast. These straps pull cross body and are not likely to slip like a standard strap but what do I know about fit For someone else.
i think holdfast also makes vegan straps.
 
First time I hear about Holdfast Gear Solo shoulder strap.
A quick search on B&H shows its leather.
I have an issue with any shoulder straps that my shoulders are basically with a down angle, no bone / bump to keep the strap from slipping off my shoulders. would this be more of a help?

How are you attaching it to the 800?
I have several different BlackRapid straps. I find the Holdfast to be much more stable and comfortable. I can not comment on how well it will work for you given your shoulder description. The Holdfast solo comes in different sizes and you can interchange the under the armpit stabilizing strap with ones of different sizes.

I attach the Holdfast to the 800 the same way I attach all of my longer lenses with a Kirk QD release. Each of my longer lenses have a QD socket on the foot plate. You can, if you so choose, use the 3/8 threaded connector that comes with the Holdfast. I should mention it also comes with a tether that you can attach to the camera if you so choose.

I would suggest visiting Holdfastgear.com to see all the options and to ask them any specific questions. I think you will get more complete and accurate answers about the options than from B&H.
 
I have several different BlackRapid straps. I find the Holdfast to be much more stable and comfortable. I can not comment on how well it will work for you given your shoulder description. The Holdfast solo comes in different sizes and you can interchange the under the armpit stabilizing strap with ones of different sizes.

I attach the Holdfast to the 800 the same way I attach all of my longer lenses with a Kirk QD release. Each of my longer lenses have a QD socket on the foot plate. You can, if you so choose, use the 3/8 threaded connector that comes with the Holdfast. I should mention it also comes with a tether that you can attach to the camera if you so choose.

I would suggest visiting Holdfastgear.com to see all the options and to ask them any specific questions. I think you will get more complete and accurate answers about the options than from B&H.
I am considering trying Holdfast. I am wondering about the dual versus single strap.

I frequently shoot with two heavy camera/lens combinations. I previously tried the dual strap Blackrapid but it became unbalanced when I lifted one of the cameras to shoot. I now use two single straps when I carry two cameras.

Does anyone have experience with the dual versus single Holdfast?
 
I have used the Holdfast duo with the Z8/180-600 and the Z9/800pf. Its a heavy load but that duo can handle it. I have the Black Rapid duo and would not have even considered carrying that load with the BR.

The duo and solo are made with the materials and strap thickness. There are a few differences - for the duo, the cameras hang on the same side as the shoulder which bears their weight. The solo have the load on the shoulder opposite from where the camera is accessed.
 
I occasionally carry the 400mm f/4.5 on one Black Rapid strap and the 800mm PF and camera on a second Black Rapid strap. It's okay for distances up to 5 miles, but is a bit more gear than I like. The 400mm f/4.5 is so light it does not really factor into the decision, but the focal length for birds normally is a bit short, so I'm usually happy with the 800mm PF by itself.

I've also carried the 600mm f/4 on a Black Rapid strap with the camera and a landscape lens on my belt for distances of 2 miles and less - plus carrying a tripod and gimbal head. This works with the 800mm PF or 600mm f/4 to start the day with landscapes, and then after sunrise to change to bird photography. I prefer to not carry a bag or backpack for the long lenses - it just adds unnecessary weight most of the time. I do have a backpack suitable for the 600mm f/4 if I am walking a longer distance. If I carry a bag for a long lens, I don't carry any other bags or waste pouches - I just put the landscape lens in the camera bag when I change to photographing wildlife.
 
I occasionally carry the 400mm f/4.5 on one Black Rapid strap and the 800mm PF and camera on a second Black Rapid strap. It's okay for distances up to 5 miles, but is a bit more gear than I like. The 400mm f/4.5 is so light it does not really factor into the decision, but the focal length for birds normally is a bit short, so I'm usually happy with the 800mm PF by itself.

I've also carried the 600mm f/4 on a Black Rapid strap with the camera and a landscape lens on my belt for distances of 2 miles and less - plus carrying a tripod and gimbal head. This works with the 800mm PF or 600mm f/4 to start the day with landscapes, and then after sunrise to change to bird photography. I prefer to not carry a bag or backpack for the long lenses - it just adds unnecessary weight most of the time. I do have a backpack suitable for the 600mm f/4 if I am walking a longer distance. If I carry a bag for a long lens, I don't carry any other bags or waste pouches - I just put the landscape lens in the camera bag when I change to photographing wildlife.
Where are you walking for miles? Hiking Trails?
 
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