I just returned from a first trip to Alaska, where I spent several days (Aug 13-17) photographing brown bears along the Katmai coast and Lake Clark, and thought that I’d pass along a few things about my experience there, in case anyone else is contemplating their own trip.
I was not part of any organized tour, but put my own itinerary together. I was based in Homer - a fantastic little fishing center on Katchemak Bay. I flew out every day with Martin Boland, owner pilot/guide of Scenic Bear Viewing (https://www.scenicbearviewing.com/), and between one and three other clients. Martin is very experienced, has over 14,000 flying hours, and is very particular about his plane, equipment, guests, and bear etiquette, which I found reassuring. I would highly recommend Martin over other local competitors- he’s that good. The flights themselves were almost worth the cost, as we flew over spectacular snow-capped mountains, glaciers, and glacial lakes before landing on the beach at Katmai, and another day at Silver Salmon Creek in Lake Clark National Park. At Katmai, the bears were numerous and actively fishing in the streams emptying into Cook Inlet, and we were able to get amazingly close to them which, for a wildlife enthusiast like me, was heaven. I quickly discovered that my 500mm was too long, and ended up switching to a 70-200 (with and without TC) for the majority of the time. Martin shoots Canon mounted with a 100-400, which I believe would have been perfect for the conditions. I lugged along my Gitzo tripod and Flexshooter head, but in retrospect a monopod would have been a better choice. The bears were truly awesome, and I was able to capture some images that I was very pleased with and, best of all, we had the place to ourselves for much of the mornings (later, only two other planes landed with a handful of people). Local scenery was equally spectacular, and I enjoyed taking a number of landscape images.
My time at Lake Clark NP was rather different - vast expanses of marine mudflats (some of which were very deep and sticky!), where numerous bears were clamming, including three sows with two cubs each in tow. It was a real treat to photograph the cubs trying to learn how to clam from their moms (they give no handouts - it’s everyone for themselves!). Also, it was a little more crowded with humans (although not excessively so), mainly because of the close proximity of Silver Salmon Lodge, which sent out several tourist parties on ATVs. A tour boat also showed up mid-morning, disgorging about 10 people. But, for the initial 2 hours, we more or less had the place to ourselves - again, a benefit of flying with Martin, who gets you there early. Once again, equipment wise, my 70-200 got plenty of use, but a lens in the 100-400 range would have been ideal. Next time.
I purposely avoided Brooks Falls because of the crowds, and I’m glad that I did. I spoke with several people who had visited the Falls, and they all reported feeling frustrated by the crowds and limited time on the viewing platform, although of course they loved watching the bears fishing. Someday I’d like to visit Brooks, but I think the only way I’d consider it would be to camp there, so that I had early and late access, when it’s a little less crowded. Aside from the novelty of shooting bears at a waterfall (and the proverbial salmon jumping into the bear’s mouth that everyone wants), I had a much better time at Katmai and Lake Clark, where I had virtually unlimited access to bears up close and personal fishing and clamming, and where there were few other people around. Next summer I plan to do exactly the same thing.
Homer: great little town, billed as the “halibut fishing capital of the world”, and indeed it is - plenty of commercial and sport fishing boats in operation. I enjoyed walking the town docks, where I was able to spot and photograph sea otters and harbor seals. My B&B (Ocean House Inn), perched on a high cliff above Katchemak Bay just outside of Homer’s “spit”, was fantastic, and I’d highly recommend it. Great little seafood joint called Daily Catch also was amazing - I returned to it three nights in a row for their signature halibut dinner. Two Sisters Bakery/Cafe also amazingly good.
I hope this is helpful to others. Coastal Alaska is most definitely worth the long travel and expense - in fact, I now feel somewhat spoiled by the abundant wildlife, compared to what I normally see in the eastern U.S.
I was not part of any organized tour, but put my own itinerary together. I was based in Homer - a fantastic little fishing center on Katchemak Bay. I flew out every day with Martin Boland, owner pilot/guide of Scenic Bear Viewing (https://www.scenicbearviewing.com/), and between one and three other clients. Martin is very experienced, has over 14,000 flying hours, and is very particular about his plane, equipment, guests, and bear etiquette, which I found reassuring. I would highly recommend Martin over other local competitors- he’s that good. The flights themselves were almost worth the cost, as we flew over spectacular snow-capped mountains, glaciers, and glacial lakes before landing on the beach at Katmai, and another day at Silver Salmon Creek in Lake Clark National Park. At Katmai, the bears were numerous and actively fishing in the streams emptying into Cook Inlet, and we were able to get amazingly close to them which, for a wildlife enthusiast like me, was heaven. I quickly discovered that my 500mm was too long, and ended up switching to a 70-200 (with and without TC) for the majority of the time. Martin shoots Canon mounted with a 100-400, which I believe would have been perfect for the conditions. I lugged along my Gitzo tripod and Flexshooter head, but in retrospect a monopod would have been a better choice. The bears were truly awesome, and I was able to capture some images that I was very pleased with and, best of all, we had the place to ourselves for much of the mornings (later, only two other planes landed with a handful of people). Local scenery was equally spectacular, and I enjoyed taking a number of landscape images.
My time at Lake Clark NP was rather different - vast expanses of marine mudflats (some of which were very deep and sticky!), where numerous bears were clamming, including three sows with two cubs each in tow. It was a real treat to photograph the cubs trying to learn how to clam from their moms (they give no handouts - it’s everyone for themselves!). Also, it was a little more crowded with humans (although not excessively so), mainly because of the close proximity of Silver Salmon Lodge, which sent out several tourist parties on ATVs. A tour boat also showed up mid-morning, disgorging about 10 people. But, for the initial 2 hours, we more or less had the place to ourselves - again, a benefit of flying with Martin, who gets you there early. Once again, equipment wise, my 70-200 got plenty of use, but a lens in the 100-400 range would have been ideal. Next time.
I purposely avoided Brooks Falls because of the crowds, and I’m glad that I did. I spoke with several people who had visited the Falls, and they all reported feeling frustrated by the crowds and limited time on the viewing platform, although of course they loved watching the bears fishing. Someday I’d like to visit Brooks, but I think the only way I’d consider it would be to camp there, so that I had early and late access, when it’s a little less crowded. Aside from the novelty of shooting bears at a waterfall (and the proverbial salmon jumping into the bear’s mouth that everyone wants), I had a much better time at Katmai and Lake Clark, where I had virtually unlimited access to bears up close and personal fishing and clamming, and where there were few other people around. Next summer I plan to do exactly the same thing.
Homer: great little town, billed as the “halibut fishing capital of the world”, and indeed it is - plenty of commercial and sport fishing boats in operation. I enjoyed walking the town docks, where I was able to spot and photograph sea otters and harbor seals. My B&B (Ocean House Inn), perched on a high cliff above Katchemak Bay just outside of Homer’s “spit”, was fantastic, and I’d highly recommend it. Great little seafood joint called Daily Catch also was amazing - I returned to it three nights in a row for their signature halibut dinner. Two Sisters Bakery/Cafe also amazingly good.
I hope this is helpful to others. Coastal Alaska is most definitely worth the long travel and expense - in fact, I now feel somewhat spoiled by the abundant wildlife, compared to what I normally see in the eastern U.S.
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That‘s our plane in the background.