Question for portrait photographerss

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sh1209

sh1209

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I have been trying to do a few paid portrait sessions here and there over the last few years and most of what I do is outdoor sets. Having said that, occasionally I use flash and other times I just try to go whenever the light is good. Anyhow, I’m just curious for those who do this regularly, do you use flash as much since the masking is so good in Lightroom and similar programs now? There’s a lot, especially with macro work you can do to simulate flash affects just by masking alone. So overall, I’m just curious, if you still use flash as often as you did before the introduction of the masking features in the editing software?
 
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Absolutely I still use flash. I'm old school in that I have had beaten into my brain from shooting film that you do everything you can to get the image as close to ideal in camera first. In my experience, the use of flash to balance the lighting and/or create a certain lighting effect is not the same as just applying some masks to your image and fiddling with sliders in post.
 
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Doug A. said:
Absolutely I still use flash. I'm old school in that I have had beaten into my brain from shooting film that you do everything you can to get the image as close to ideal in camera first. In my experience, the use of flash to balance the lighting and/or create a certain lighting effect is not the same as just applying some masks to your image and fiddling with sliders in post.
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Thank you Doug. Just out of curiosity, how often would you say you use flash? Also for larger groups do you typically just use on camera flat with a small diffuser?
 
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sh1209 said:
I have been trying to do a few paid portrait sessions here and there over the last few years and most of what I do is outdoor sets. Having said that, occasionally I use flash and other times I just try to go whenever the light is good. Anyhow, I’m just curious for those who do this regularly, do you use flash as much since the masking is so good in Lightroom and similar programs now? There’s a lot, especially with macro work you can do to simulate flash affects just by masking alone. So overall, I’m just curious, if you still use flash as often as you did before the introduction of the masking features in the editing software?
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As much. The human face is not a flat surface, which is how a mask treats it. The subtleties of curves and shadows requires light, or countless photoshopping hours.
 
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sh1209 said:
I have been trying to do a few paid portrait sessions here and there over the last few years and most of what I do is outdoor sets. Having said that, occasionally I use flash and other times I just try to go whenever the light is good. Anyhow, I’m just curious for those who do this regularly, do you use flash as much since the masking is so good in Lightroom and similar programs now? There’s a lot, especially with macro work you can do to simulate flash affects just by masking alone. So overall, I’m just curious, if you still use flash as often as you did before the introduction of the masking features in the editing software?
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I use both depending on what the situation is or what result I want.

I found that really studying light pays dividens and controlling the ambient by careful positioning of the subject works well. This was getting more directional light by using a tree. Similar results can be got in urban environments in alleys or covered access between building etc.
 

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sh1209 said:
Thank you Doug. Just out of curiosity, how often would you say you use flash? Also for larger groups do you typically just use on camera flat with a small diffuser?
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I don't do portrait work regularly, just a couple times a year, but I use my flash every time. I typically have my flash on a small camera mounted bracket (Vello mini flash bracket) and connected with a sync cable (Nikon SC-28 TTL cord) and a small diffuser on the flash. Getting the flash off the camera, even if its just a foot and spreading the light (either bounce and/or diffuser) makes a noticeable difference. I don't do this type of photography enough to warrant having multiple flashes, light stands, soft boxes, etc.
 
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I was a portrait photography long before I started wildlife. I have done a lot of sessions in just available light. Open shade with the sky lighting one side can be very attractive. I tried to arrange the subject to get one side of the face or subject between one and two stops brighter than the off side. In full, even shade, like under a forest canopy, I have used a speedlight to get the lighting ratio I want. I did not use a flash on camera because it gives a harsh, flat appearance. A small softbox or modifier could make the light softer but it would have to be pretty close to the subject. My rule of thumb is set the light about the same distance from the subject as the face of the modifier. I usually carry a small light stand and bracket since I rarely had an assistant. I think a small speedlight is probably not going to give you the quality you want if the group gets larger than 3 or 4 people. I have several Godox AD 200 lights. Battery powered, about twice the size of an on camera flash and about 2 or 2.5 times the light. Two of these could light a larger group if the conditions are not too bright. Hope you enjoy this adventure. Portrait work was always my first love. Image used a fill light on the left and late-day, direct sun from the right.
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Outdoor we never bring flashes.
Isn’t it the reason itself being photographed outdoors? Just got to find a good place, near trees, etc. practice at that location, and let the sun shine its magic.
 
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CoyoteCreationsNW said:
I was a portrait photography long before I started wildlife. I have done a lot of sessions in just available light. Open shade with the sky lighting one side can be very attractive. I tried to arrange the subject to get one side of the face or subject between one and two stops brighter than the off side. In full, even shade, like under a forest canopy, I have used a speedlight to get the lighting ratio I want. I did not use a flash on camera because it gives a harsh, flat appearance. A small softbox or modifier could make the light softer but it would have to be pretty close to the subject. My rule of thumb is set the light about the same distance from the subject as the face of the modifier. I usually carry a small light stand and bracket since I rarely had an assistant. I think a small speedlight is probably not going to give you the quality you want if the group gets larger than 3 or 4 people. I have several Godox AD 200 lights. Battery powered, about twice the size of an on camera flash and about 2 or 2.5 times the light. Two of these could light a larger group if the conditions are not too bright. Hope you enjoy this adventure. Portrait work was always my first love.
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I do have a AD200 and really like it. I sometimes use it for macro work and attach it to my cotton carrier harness when walking about
 
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Andy Miller Photo UK said:
If for nothing else you have to have a light source to act as a key light in the subjects eyes. This can be a flash/strobe, reflector or natural light. Pros tend to use flash/strobes to give them control and to be able to back-off the ambient. Get your shot in camera whenever you can.
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Thank you. I agree with having a source of catchlight.
 
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As in that video, I have used more natural light with the cameras starting at D5. Very seldom use flash now when out.
And take notice he showed only b-w photos, I find that more forgiving than color when in natural light
 
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Charles Loy said:
As in that video, I have used more natural light with the cameras starting at D5. Very seldom use flash now when out.
And take notice he showed only b-w photos, I find that more forgiving than color when in natural light
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I don’t mind using flash and use it very often with macro but feel I have to mess with the settings too much when photographing people. I suppose it’s more nervousness than anything feeling the pressure of people watching you.
 
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sh1209 said:
Very powerful for the size for sure. I also have a AD400 I use in my home for macro work and some portrait work but it’s too big to lug around.
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Full sun, no shade, Explor (Adorama Godox) 600 with 7 foot Westcott umbrella with stand tied to driftwood log and still needed help to hold the light straight. Probably wouldn't carry that again, but I was younger then.
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If photographing a single person, sometimes a large (person-sized) reflector can fill in shadows on the shady side. They are easy to transport and adjust (WYSIWYG) but be a handful when the wind comes up and can require a helper.

I would try to get it right in the camera for reasons already stated above.
 
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sh1209 said:
I don’t mind using flash and use it very often with macro but feel I have to mess with the settings too much when photographing people. I suppose it’s more nervousness than anything feeling the pressure of people watching you.
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Much easier with a flash meter. While you have the same light and using manual exposure and manual flash settings you can balance the ambient and flash for key light and fill then adjust the exposure independently for the ambient with the shutter speed and the flash exposure with the aperture. So you only have to set up once in the same light.

My aim is to try to not have the flash obviously visible.

The woman was taken in the evening and the ambient was warm light so I put a CTO gel on the flash to balance the colour temperature. The man had a puff of flash to fill the shadow from the cab canopy:

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John Woodworth said:
If photographing a single person, sometimes a large (person-sized) reflector can fill in shadows on the shady side. They are easy to transport and adjust (WYSIWYG) but be a handful when the wind comes up and can require a helper.

I would try to get it right in the camera for reasons already stated above.
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Thank you. I have a few reflectors and really like using the small ones for macro work and even diffusing light at times. I need to try them more on people.
 
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