Robert S
Well-known member
I have problems using a tripod for birds in flight. The best set up I've found is using a monopod with the lens collar slacked off. I am getting a Manfrotto 361 shoulder brace. Does anyone here use this set up?
shoulder brace for monopod
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Lotuselite
New member
I tried one but never really liked it.
OK for static subjects although I I could do pretty well with the monopod without it.
For BIF I found it hindered tracking if the subject was varying altitude, especially if it was coming towards me.
Maybe I just did not know how ton use it.
Maybe make sure your vendor has a good return policy.
Sorry I can't be more encouraging.
OK for static subjects although I I could do pretty well with the monopod without it.
For BIF I found it hindered tracking if the subject was varying altitude, especially if it was coming towards me.
Maybe I just did not know how ton use it.
Maybe make sure your vendor has a good return policy.
Sorry I can't be more encouraging.
Robert S
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply. Will see how I go with it.
I've used a shoulder stock a lot but not combined with a monopod. Actually when I first started shooting BIF the only way I had any success at all was with a shoulder stock. First I made one out of a plastic bb gun stock. Later I bought a BushHawk(no longer in business). It seems to me that extremes in elevation could be problematic as mentioned by @Lotuselite . But that is an issue with monopods in general. When that happens I just pick up the whole rig as needed.
The idea of a monopod is is its flexibility. The idea of screwing something to it that sticks out at 90 degrees seems to defeat the purpose.
Companies seem to dream up all sorts of devices that most don’t really need. It’s over-complication of a simple device.
Monopod or tripod with gimbal.....I’m not sure there is anything else needed between them.
Oh, I better mention Flexshooter pro in lieu of gimbal before anyone else does.
Companies seem to dream up all sorts of devices that most don’t really need. It’s over-complication of a simple device.
Monopod or tripod with gimbal.....I’m not sure there is anything else needed between them.
Oh, I better mention Flexshooter pro in lieu of gimbal before anyone else does.
Steve did a video using the Wimberley Monogimbel on a monopod. That inspired me to get it . It was brilliant for my D7500 with the relatively heavy 200-500 attached while on a 2 week Antarctic cruise back in 2020. It was enormously flexible and I had no trouble shooting seals , whales and albatrosses. Quite a few photographers checked it out as whatever they were using didn’t give them that flexibility.
You took the words from my mouth!
Robert S
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply. I made one a few years ago using a bare stock [ old one ] that I got from a gun shop. Only used it 'hand held'. Hopefully I can solve the elevation problem by using the monopod fully extended and moving forward to get extra elevation. Once I have it set up I will provide some photos.
Robert S
Well-known member
Thanks for the post. Why would the purpose be defeated? Not sure I get your point.
Robert S
Well-known member
Hello Patrick. I will use a Manfrotto 680B monopod, Manfrotto 243B hinge, then put the 361 shoulder brace on top. I will use a neck strap attached to the lens. I will slacken off the lens ring to allow the lens to rotate to keep the horizon horizontal.
Anyway hopefully in a few days the gizmo turns up and I can give it a try out.
Here's an alternative to the BushHawk
sharpshooterindustries.com
Here's a picture with monopod but I feel it is intended for use as a rifle type stock
CameraMount / ScopeMount
Rifle stock, camera mount, window rail, shoulder stock, shoulder mount, window sling, window mount, photography, camera, DSLR
Here's a picture with monopod but I feel it is intended for use as a rifle type stock
Robert S
Well-known member
Hello Bob. Looks like an interesting set up. Only problem I see with it is that to pan left or right would require a considerable movement on the part of the photographer, same for elevation.Here's an alternative to the BushHawk
CameraMount / ScopeMount
Rifle stock, camera mount, window rail, shoulder stock, shoulder mount, window sling, window mount, photography, camera, DSLR
Here's a picture with monopod but I feel it is intended for use as a rifle type stock
Alnitak
Member
Looks very awkward to use! Way too much sticking out from the monopod. The Wimberley monopod gimbal MH-100 or the Leofoto version MPG-01 is the way to go! Watch Steve's video. I have the Leofoto version, got it for $109, and it works fabulously with my D500 and 200-500 lens. You can release the lens and it stays where you point it. No need to fight gravity like with the setup you propose or a pan/tilt monopod head. It really is the best, lightest, smallest and most functional monopod head out there, IMO. Having said that, some people also like a video fluid head.Here's an alternative to the BushHawk
CameraMount / ScopeMount
Rifle stock, camera mount, window rail, shoulder stock, shoulder mount, window sling, window mount, photography, camera, DSLR
Here's a picture with monopod but I feel it is intended for use as a rifle type stock
You'll have the same issue with the Manfrotto shoulder attachment. What do you anticipate the benefit is going to be with the shoulder brace?
I love the Wimberley Monopod head. I simply cannot go back to the RRS/Kirk versions. I find the monopod/head combo easy to use and a great alternative to a tripod setup if you want to travel light.
Robert S
Well-known member
Hello Dan. When I lived in the UK I did some clay pigeon shooting [ shot a few real ones too ], then when I first came to Australia tried out match rifle. It seems to me that to photograph birds in flight is more like clay pigeon than match rifle. Normally I use my right eye to sight a rifle/shotgun but my left to look into a camera. No idea why that is. Anyway I will try using my right eye for camera from now on. Also I will try keeping both eyes open for bif.
I anticipate that the shoulder brace will brace the set up. Strap around neck connected to lens pulling shoulder brace into shoulder. If things go as I hope my left hand will control monopod and 'direction', my right hand is relatively free to mange horizon control and press buttons on the camera.
Lot of hopes and ifs but once the thing gets here I will be able to taste the pudding.
fcotterill
Well-known member
A professionally built hunting - ideally bespoke stock - rifle should balance as well as a well fitting shotgun, so the sighting axis lines up instantly. Even a well balanced heavy calibre double rifle feels lighter in the hands with the centre of gravity positioned close to the shoulder.
It's a challenge to match this weight distribution for a FX camera + telephoto to be handled like a rifle on a stock system. It will be interesting to test how such system, like the Sharpshooter, handles the weight against one's shoulder. With the ~1kg mass of a ILC, a 400 f2.8S TC or 500 f4E rig is ~4kg, and a 600 f4 Nikkor is 0.5 -0.8kg more weight.
The best system I've found so far is the Steadify hip monopod, if a light monopod+gimbal is too much to carry far.
bcgforums.com
It's a challenge to match this weight distribution for a FX camera + telephoto to be handled like a rifle on a stock system. It will be interesting to test how such system, like the Sharpshooter, handles the weight against one's shoulder. With the ~1kg mass of a ILC, a 400 f2.8S TC or 500 f4E rig is ~4kg, and a 600 f4 Nikkor is 0.5 -0.8kg more weight.
The best system I've found so far is the Steadify hip monopod, if a light monopod+gimbal is too much to carry far.
Supporting heavy lens
Hand-Holding heavy lens has become beyond me for more than a few minutes, so I cobbled together a method to take the weight for most of the time. It would be better to be over both shoulders to even the load out, but this is how far I have got so far. Rather than try and explain it, I have added...
bcgforums.com
Robert S
Well-known member
Thanks for the post. I have previously tried using the monopod with a setup that includes everything other than a shoulder brace. The problem I had was that the strain on the camera strap around my neck caused problems. Hopefully what I plan to do will limit that strain; I can use my left hand to pull the setup into my shoulder thereby limiting the strain on my neck. I guess it's just trying to overcome the limitations of getting older and weaker.A professionally built hunting - ideally bespoke stock - rifle should balance as well as a well fitting shotgun, so the sighting axis lines up instantly. Even a well balanced heavy calibre double rifle feels lighter in the hands with the centre of gravity positioned close to the shoulder.
It's a challenge to match this weight distribution for a FX camera + telephoto to be handled like a rifle on a stock system. It will be interesting to test how such system, like the Sharpshooter, handles the weight against one's shoulder. With the ~1kg mass of a ILC, a 400 f2.8S TC or 500 f4E rig is ~4kg, and a 600 f4 Nikkor is 0.5 -0.8kg more weight.
The best system I've found so far is the Steadify hip monopod, if a light monopod+gimbal is too much to carry far.
Supporting heavy lens
Hand-Holding heavy lens has become beyond me for more than a few minutes, so I cobbled together a method to take the weight for most of the time. It would be better to be over both shoulders to even the load out, but this is how far I have got so far. Rather than try and explain it, I have added...
Lotuselite
New member
A professionally built hunting - ideally bespoke stock - rifle should balance as well as a well fitting shotgun, so the sighting axis lines up instantly. Even a well balanced heavy calibre double rifle feels lighter in the hands with the centre of gravity positioned close to the shoulder.
It's a challenge to match this weight distribution for a FX camera + telephoto to be handled like a rifle on a stock system. It will be interesting to test how such system, like the Sharpshooter, handles the weight against one's shoulder. With the ~1kg mass of a ILC, a 400 f2.8S TC or 500 f4E rig is ~4kg, and a 600 f4 Nikkor is 0.5 -0.8kg more weight.
The best system I've found so far is the Steadify hip monopod, if a light monopod+gimbal is too much to carry far.
Supporting heavy lens
Hand-Holding heavy lens has become beyond me for more than a few minutes, so I cobbled together a method to take the weight for most of the time. It would be better to be over both shoulders to even the load out, but this is how far I have got so far. Rather than try and explain it, I have added...
A professionally built hunting - ideally bespoke stock - rifle should balance as well as a well fitting shotgun, so the sighting axis lines up instantly. Even a well balanced heavy calibre double rifle feels lighter in the hands with the centre of gravity positioned close to the shoulder.
It's a challenge to match this weight distribution for a FX camera + telephoto to be handled like a rifle on a stock system. It will be interesting to test how such system, like the Sharpshooter, handles the weight against one's shoulder. With the ~1kg mass of a ILC, a 400 f2.8S TC or 500 f4E rig is ~4kg, and a 600 f4 Nikkor is 0.5 -0.8kg more weight.
The best system I've found so far is the Steadify hip monopod, if a light monopod+gimbal is too much to carry far.
Supporting heavy lens
Hand-Holding heavy lens has become beyond me for more than a few minutes, so I cobbled together a method to take the weight for most of the time. It would be better to be over both shoulders to even the load out, but this is how far I have got so far. Rather than try and explain it, I have added...
Lotuselite
New member
Sorry folks, I am trying to delete the above as it is not relevant. Mods??
Robert S
Well-known member
Thank gawd for that I thought I was seeing double. BTW it seems 'match rifle' is not what I meant, try 'fullbore target rifle' instead. Maybe the terminology changed since 1978.
I might take a rest. My brain is beginning to hurt and I sense Tourette's coming on.
I might take a rest. My brain is beginning to hurt and I sense Tourette's coming on.
When I use a monopod with long lenses, the monopod is attached to the lens foot and I never have a strap on the camera or lens. I ditched neck straps when I was using my D300 and now use Black rapid style slings - but not when the camera is on a support.
Alnitak
Member
I really don't understand this comment. A neck strap, rather than a sling, seems like a bad idea when using a monopod. Another reason to use the mono-gimbal approach. With the Leofoto/Wimberley set-up, there is no need for a neck strap or even sling. I use OpTech straps and slings with quick disconnect snaps, which also allow easy switching between a neck strap and a sling. On the monopod/WH-100 setup, no strap is used. Watch the video with Steve using it and walking around the woods. No strap needed. If you really feel you need additional safety, use one of the slings from OpTech, Peak Design, etc.. They go across the body, from shoulder to waist, with a slide mechanism that instantly allows you to extend and retract. They are longer than neck straps and provide more freedom of movement, so you can attach to the lens foot and still mount on the mono-gimbal. The extra length allows for easy carry of the monopod and lens over your shoulder. However, the sling strap really isn't necessary for this setup.
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Robert S
Well-known member
When I venture out into the bush I carry the camera using a neck strap and the monopod as a walking aid.
Alnitak
Member
I can't imagine supporting a heavy lens -- anything past 70-200, say -- via a neck strap walking through the woods or trails for any length of time. Not just the weight hanging around my neck, but it would be awkward bending over under tree limbs, stepping over logs/brush, etc. For me, the sling is a much better option, with the shoulder handling the weight and a convenient waist carry (easier to just steady with a hand if needed while retaining more balance). Often, I carry just slightly behind the hip to minimize lens/camera movement while walking or brush-beating. It also keeps the gear safer from branches and/or trips and falls. That's where the adjustable sling comes in; a simple tug on the strap takes up all slack and raising the lens/camera to the eye extends it. Last thing I'll mention on the sling is that I do sometimes use it as a safety tether to a lens attached to the mono-gimbal (even though probably not needed as mentioned before). Nice thing is, that if you collapse the monopod, you can use the sling to carry the set-up at your side, say for extended walking to you new location, then just extend the monopod to use normally. Since the lens/camera is carried upside down at your side (sling arrached to lens foot) the monopod, collapsed, conveniently sticks up out of the way.
If you need the assistance of a walking stick, then I see how you evolved to your carry method. I am 69, and while I often use a walking stick when backpacking, I generally avoid it on photo shoots where both hands need to be ready to capture the moment. If, on the other hand, you just evolved to using the monopod that way because carrying the lens/camera attached to the monopod out in front of you or to the side is awkward, consider the over the shoulder method Steve shows. I also found the resting against the eye/forehead tip interesting. Between the angled monopod and your two legs, you in essence create a tripod...clever.
I worry that adding any kind of stock or extension, with a large lens sitting on top, only exasperates the balance and handling issues of a monopod, adding considerable weight and torque with the extensions. That approach is probably more feasible for a stationary tripod than a more mobile, compact, lighter monopod. Good luck with your choices. Hope you find a solution that works for you.
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