Skip the 200-500 range in auto ISO on Z8?

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Maybe I'm being a bit lazy with the query.... Anyway, I ask you. Is there any way to set auto ISO so as to "skip" the whole range from 64 to 500?
I shoot in manual + auto-iso, and I see that all the photos between 200 and 500 lose a lot of detail. I understand the "double base ISO" thing, but I can't figure out how to set the camera to skip that range.
Any ideas?
 
Wouldn't setting your lowest ISO to 500 effectively do this? It would block anything below 500, so precisely the range you're trying to avoid. Or am I wrong?

(Sorry for all the edits, should really organize my thoughts before posting!)
 
Wouldn't setting your lowest ISO to 500 effectively do this? It would block anything below 500, so precisely the range you're trying to avoid. Or am I wrong?

(Sorry for all the edits, should really organize my thoughts before posting!)
Not with M + Auto ISO - it uses what it needs unless it hits the top cap. If it needs to drop below the bottom ISO value you set, it will. (It will use the ISO you set as a "soft" base ISO with other exposure modes).
 
Maybe I'm being a bit lazy with the query.... Anyway, I ask you. Is there any way to set auto ISO so as to "skip" the whole range from 64 to 500?
I shoot in manual + auto-iso, and I see that all the photos between 200 and 500 lose a lot of detail. I understand the "double base ISO" thing, but I can't figure out how to set the camera to skip that range.
Any ideas?
I confess to being a bit confused. Most of us are wishing hard for enough light to let us shoot at 64 to 500 ISO. That's where I find the best detail because you have less noise. Steve's remark that maybe you are shooting in conditions that cause heat distortion is worth pondering.

That said, if you are shooting in manual with Auto ISO, you can avoid low ISO most of the time by using high to very high shutter speeds.
 
Here's a 100% crop of a lion's eye at ISO 360 and this is typically what I see between ISO 200 and 500.

lion-eyes.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
Maybe I'm being a bit lazy with the query.... Anyway, I ask you. Is there any way to set auto ISO so as to "skip" the whole range from 64 to 500?
I shoot in manual + auto-iso, and I see that all the photos between 200 and 500 lose a lot of detail. I understand the "double base ISO" thing, but I can't figure out how to set the camera to skip that range.
Any ideas?
Something else is going on. What camera and lens are you using? Noise will progressively increase past the native ISO. The dual-ISO provides a plateau of sorts for stills, but should be indistinguishable for almost all situations in the range you are asking about. It should be cleaner than say, 1,250. Video is different, and indeed you want to skip a range depending on the sensor. You might be shooting at too low of a shutter speed or you might miss focus due to shallow depth of field if you compensate with open wide iris.
 
Nope, no way to do it with M + Auto ISO. You just gotta watch it. That said, I've not really noticed any loss of detail at lower ISOs. However, often if my ISO in that range it's getting bright and I have to fight heat haze.
Thank you Steve!
I'll put things in context a bit....
I'm an amateur. I shoot with Z8 and usually with Sigma 500 F4 + TC1.4x. Basically, photos of birds. That said, it is very common that I am photographing in circumstances with a lot of variability of light. Suddenly a bird in flight over a blue sky and then another one in the shade among the vegetation.
I always prefer the lowest ISOs possible, up to 100 or 120 and then I would prefer to jump beyond 500.
The case I was raising, is in low light situations. Maybe it's not a "sharpness" issue but a mix of low light, noise and lack of detail.
I attach a couple of shots with the same crop taken at the same time, one at ISO 360 and the other at 640. I will look for some more or do a controlled test to see if my perception is correct.
 

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Thank you Steve!
I'll put things in context a bit....
I'm an amateur. I shoot with Z8 and usually with Sigma 500 F4 + TC1.4x. Basically, photos of birds. That said, it is very common that I am photographing in circumstances with a lot of variability of light. Suddenly a bird in flight over a blue sky and then another one in the shade among the vegetation.
I always prefer the lowest ISOs possible, up to 100 or 120 and then I would prefer to jump beyond 500.
The case I was raising, is in low light situations. Maybe it's not a "sharpness" issue but a mix of low light, noise and lack of detail.
I attach a couple of shots with the same crop taken at the same time, one at ISO 360 and the other at 640. I will look for some more or do a controlled test to see if my perception is correct.
The point I think many folks are trying to make is that an ISO between 64 and 500 isn't a problem and definitely isn't the cause of blurry photos but it CAN be a result of shooting at too slow a shutter speed that RESULTS in an ISO in that range. In that case, limiting the camera to avoid certain ISOs (especially low range ISO like what you listed) won't help at all as it's not the cause of soft photos but can easily result from too low a shutter speed when shooting in Manual with Auto ISO mode.

Not sure what your shutter speeds were for those shots, but a few things to think about:

- What we see as sharpness is really edge contrast so situations that yield low contrast can also rob sharpness. This can be a combo of very soft light (e.g. overcast) plus underexposure but basically any time image contrast suffers, so will apparent sharpness. So good exposure and good light can go a long way towards sharp photos.

- In lower level light if you do find yourself ending up below ISO 500 there's a good chance your shutter speed is quite low which may have been the case in those golden hour shots posted above. Overly low shutter speeds is one of the most common reasons for soft sports or wildlife photos. Even something like a shorebird can twitch around quite a bit and if you're shooting with a long lens hand held it can take quite a bit of shutter speed to get crisp photos. Yup, sometimes as light levels fall we need to tradeoff shutter speed or sometimes we do so for creative reasons like blurring raindrops or snowflakes as they fall but in general if you're not getting crisp wildlife photos, faster shutter speeds are a very good starting point. Don't be too scared of ISO up to 6400 or even higher with a Z8. Yup that's crazy high ISO if you look back to the film or early DSLR days but modern sensors are pretty amazing and modern noise reduction tools in post processing can let you get away with ISO settings that wouldn't have worked back in the day. I'd much rather deal with a bit of excess image noise than end up with a motion blurred photo that can't really be saved. But if you're finding your auto ISO is ending up in the 200-500 range for sunset wildlife shots then it's a good bet your shutter speeds are much too low.

- As Steve pointed out above in mid-day light where you might end up with lower ISO even though shutter speed is reasonably high you can still get soft photos from heat effects and atmospheric turbulence especially when shooting across long distances. Your photos above weren't shot midday but it's a common problem for folks that get long lenses and wonder why their shots of distant subjects are soft when shot in bright midday sun. When you shoot across long distances in the heat of the day you're often shooting through a bunch of water vapor, dust and stirred up air that can rob images of, contrast sharpness and detail. Folks that shoot long lenses and then also crop heavily for distant small subjects often see a lot of this not because of the long lens and not necessarily because of some cropping but if you need a long lens, a TC and also heavy cropping to deliver the desired image size you're often shooting at such long distances that the resulting images suffer especially at times when there's a lot of heat shimmer or stirred up air, dust and water vapor between you and a more distant subject.

Bottom line, using ISO 64 to 500 on a Z8 isn't the cause of soft or subpar photos and there's really no reason to avoid that range of ISOs for stills photography. But getting that range of ISO may indicate something else like overly slow shutter speed in lower light or sometimes it means shooting in the heat of the day and dealing with heat shimmer problems but the ISO itself isn't the root cause.
 
The point I think many folks are trying to make is that an ISO between 64 and 500 isn't a problem and definitely isn't the cause of blurry photos but it CAN be a result of shooting at too slow a shutter speed that RESULTS in an ISO in that range. In that case, limiting the camera to avoid certain ISO (especially low range ISO like what you listed) won't help at all as it's not the cause of soft photos but can easily result from too low a shutter speed when shooting in Manual with Auto ISO mode.

Not sure what your shutter speeds were for those shots, but a few things to think about:

- What we see as sharpness is really edge contrast so situations that yield low contrast can also rob sharpness. This can be a combo of very soft light (e.g. overcast) plus underexposure but basically any time image contrast suffers, so will apparent sharpness. So good exposure and good light can go a long way towards sharp photos.

- In lower level light if you do find yourself ending up below ISO 500 there's a good chance your shutter speed is quite low which may have been the case in those golden hour shots posted above. Overly low shutter speeds is one of the most common reasons for soft sports or wildlife photos. Even something like a shorebird can twitch around quite a bit and if you're shooting with a long lens hand held it can take quite a bit of shutter speed to get crisp photos. Yup, sometimes as light levels fall we need to tradeoff shutter speed or sometimes we do so for creative reasons like blurring raindrops or snowflakes as they fall but in general if you're not getting crisp wildlife photos faster shutter speeds are a very good starting point. Don't be too scared of ISO up to 6400 or even higher with a Z8. Yup that's crazy high ISO if you look back to the film or early DSLR days but modern sensors are pretty amazing and modern noise reduction tools in post processing can let you get away with ISO settings that wouldn't have worked back in the day. I'd much rather deal with a bit of excess image noise than end up with a motion blurred photo that can't really be saved. But if you're finding your auto ISO is ending up in the 200-500 range for sunset wildlife shots then it's a good bet your shutter speeds are much too low.

- As Steve pointed out above in mid-day light where you might end up with lower ISO even though shutter speed is reasonably high you can still get soft photos from heat effects and atmospheric turbulence especially when shooting across long distances. Your photos above weren't shot midday but it's a common problem for folks that get long lenses and wonder why their shots of distant subjects are soft when shot in bright midday sun. When you shoot across long distances in the heat of the day you're often shooting through a bunch of water vapor, dust and stirred up air that can rob images of, contrast sharpness and detail. Folks that shoot long lenses and then also crop heavily for distant small subjects often see a lot of this not because of the long lens and not necessarily because of some cropping but if you need a long lens, a TC and also heavy cropping to deliver the desired image size you're often shooting at such long distances that the resulting images suffer especially at times when there's a lot of heat shimmer or stirred up air, dust and water vapor between you and a more distant subject.

Bottom line, using ISO 64 to 500 on a Z8 isn't the cause of soft or subpar photos and there's really no reason to avoid that range of ISOs for stills photography. But getting that range of ISO may indicate something else like overly slow shutter speed in lower light or sometimes it means shooting in the heat of the day and dealing with heat shimmer problems but the ISO itself isn't the root cause.
Uhhhh...!!!!
Thank you so much Dave!
You really took your time to respond and teach. I really appreciate that from you and the others who have responded to my concern.
As a fellow member said above, you really do get a lot of good things on this forum!
I will try to increase the speed and try to make friends with high ISO.
Thanks again!
Be well!
 
Uhhhh...!!!!
Thank you so much Dave!
You really took your time to respond and teach. I really appreciate that from you and the others who have responded to my concern.
As a fellow member said above, you really do get a lot of good things on this forum!
I will try to increase the speed and try to make friends with high ISO.
Thanks again!
Be well!
Just to add to it, I've linked a photo of mine that was taken at iso 6400 (also run through dxo, but it can't create detail out of whole cloth) and not heavily cropped. Higher iso isn't something to be worried about with the tools we have.

 
The point I think many folks are trying to make is that an ISO between 64 and 500 isn't a problem and definitely isn't the cause of blurry photos but it CAN be a result of shooting at too slow a shutter speed that RESULTS in an ISO in that range. In that case, limiting the camera to avoid certain ISOs (especially low range ISO like what you listed) won't help at all as it's not the cause of soft photos but can easily result from too low a shutter speed when shooting in Manual with Auto ISO mode.

Not sure what your shutter speeds were for those shots, but a few things to think about:

- What we see as sharpness is really edge contrast so situations that yield low contrast can also rob sharpness. This can be a combo of very soft light (e.g. overcast) plus underexposure but basically any time image contrast suffers, so will apparent sharpness. So good exposure and good light can go a long way towards sharp photos.

- In lower level light if you do find yourself ending up below ISO 500 there's a good chance your shutter speed is quite low which may have been the case in those golden hour shots posted above. Overly low shutter speeds is one of the most common reasons for soft sports or wildlife photos. Even something like a shorebird can twitch around quite a bit and if you're shooting with a long lens hand held it can take quite a bit of shutter speed to get crisp photos. Yup, sometimes as light levels fall we need to tradeoff shutter speed or sometimes we do so for creative reasons like blurring raindrops or snowflakes as they fall but in general if you're not getting crisp wildlife photos, faster shutter speeds are a very good starting point. Don't be too scared of ISO up to 6400 or even higher with a Z8. Yup that's crazy high ISO if you look back to the film or early DSLR days but modern sensors are pretty amazing and modern noise reduction tools in post processing can let you get away with ISO settings that wouldn't have worked back in the day. I'd much rather deal with a bit of excess image noise than end up with a motion blurred photo that can't really be saved. But if you're finding your auto ISO is ending up in the 200-500 range for sunset wildlife shots then it's a good bet your shutter speeds are much too low.

- As Steve pointed out above in mid-day light where you might end up with lower ISO even though shutter speed is reasonably high you can still get soft photos from heat effects and atmospheric turbulence especially when shooting across long distances. Your photos above weren't shot midday but it's a common problem for folks that get long lenses and wonder why their shots of distant subjects are soft when shot in bright midday sun. When you shoot across long distances in the heat of the day you're often shooting through a bunch of water vapor, dust and stirred up air that can rob images of, contrast sharpness and detail. Folks that shoot long lenses and then also crop heavily for distant small subjects often see a lot of this not because of the long lens and not necessarily because of some cropping but if you need a long lens, a TC and also heavy cropping to deliver the desired image size you're often shooting at such long distances that the resulting images suffer especially at times when there's a lot of heat shimmer or stirred up air, dust and water vapor between you and a more distant subject.

Bottom line, using ISO 64 to 500 on a Z8 isn't the cause of soft or subpar photos and there's really no reason to avoid that range of ISOs for stills photography. But getting that range of ISO may indicate something else like overly slow shutter speed in lower light or sometimes it means shooting in the heat of the day and dealing with heat shimmer problems but the ISO itself isn't the root cause.
Thanks for the great explanation, as usual!
 
I think some of us may have come from shooting stills where if possible using base ISO is always preferred for maximum dynamic range. I have to say shooting action like BIF or even just still birds in mostly darker settings it’s a rare day I can shoot at iso 64 or even under 200. I do try to keep things under 2k if possible but I have had good results much higher if I can get close enough. I don’t have the big exotic glass allowing me to shoot at f2.8 or f4 at any distance. I have never noticed a lack of sharpness in these lower iso settings but I have noticed softness due to mechanical issues trying to get a shot at too low a shutter speed. Birds move a lot And trying to time the moments when they freeze for a split second can be trying.
 
Maybe I'm being a bit lazy with the query.... Anyway, I ask you. Is there any way to set auto ISO so as to "skip" the whole range from 64 to 500?
I shoot in manual + auto-iso, and I see that all the photos between 200 and 500 lose a lot of detail. I understand the "double base ISO" thing, but I can't figure out how to set the camera to skip that range.
Any ideas?
Simply set the ISO.
 
I went though a period where I was determined to keep my iso below 1000 no matter what and hence many shots were not sharp due to motion issues. These days I have learned to not be so anal in this regard and find my keeper rate is much improved. Small birds even when not in flight need pretty fast shutter speeds as their basic movements are quick.
 
I went though a period where I was determined to keep my iso below 1000 no matter what and hence many shots were not sharp due to motion issues. These days I have learned to not be so anal in this regard and find my keeper rate is much improved. Small birds even when not in flight need pretty fast shutter speeds as their basic movements are quick.
I will go that way!
 
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